Feel free to ask Myles

[ManInTheBox]

Hey, I have just been reading your posts and visited your website, really good stuff. I also visited some of your links, and I like what I see. But Dude, I am a poeBoy from Texas, these things are way out of my reach. I would love to just play one of these amps, just to hear if they are all you say. Alas, I know of no dealers in my immediate area(Houston is like 90 miles away). If you could help me find a dealer or any of manufacturers on your site, I would appreciate it. I have played Boogies, and while they are nice, I don't think they are all that. I am talking about the Roccafortes and the THDs.

I have experience in electronics, and I have experience working with high voltage(13KV). I would like to build my own amplifier that would deliver this class of tone. But where do I start?

Do I just copy an old Fender or Marshall design? Do I try to get a schematic of a Roccoforte? Will they send me one?

[Dylan]

Yo Miles!

 

I just started this new thread and would appreciate if you could check it out. It's regarding my recently purchased used Fender Twin that isn't working right. Thanks in advance!

 

-Dylan

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by tundrkys:

Myles, I have a loud anoying hum in channel one only. What could cause this problem, and how do I rtemedy it? I have a Crate Blues Voodoo 6212 combo. Thanks for your help.

tundrkys ...

 

If it is only in channel 1, first try swapping out V1 with another tube in the amp.

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by tundrkys:

Hey, I have just been reading your posts and visited your website, really good stuff. I also visited some of your links, and I like what I see. But Dude, I am a poeBoy from Texas, these things are way out of my reach. I would love to just play one of these amps, just to hear if they are all you say. Alas, I know of no dealers in my immediate area(Houston is like 90 miles away). If you could help me find a dealer or any of manufacturers on your site, I would appreciate it. I have played Boogies, and while they are nice, I don't think they are all that. I am talking about the Roccafortes and the THDs.

I have experience in electronics, and I have experience working with high voltage(13KV). I would like to build my own amplifier that would deliver this class of tone. But where do I start?

Do I just copy an old Fender or Marshall design? Do I try to get a schematic of a Roccoforte? Will they send me one?

tundrkys ....

 

All of the folks on my site have direct links to their site, usually by clicking on the green amp company name. On some amps, clicking on this takes you to other areas of my website where there is more info, but there will be another place to click to get to the mfg website directly.

 

The mfg usually has dealer info, or an email where you could ask them directly for info or dealer info.

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dylan Walters:

Yo Miles!

 

I just started this new thread and would appreciate if you could check it out. It's regarding my recently purchased used Fender Twin that isn't working right. Thanks in advance!

 

-Dylan

Dylan ... this is my usual response to some of these requests:

 

I have been getting a lot of mail or questions in the Harmony Central forums. I have an obligation for Guitar Player Magazine, and their forum first, and its been getting a little hard to keep everything organized, so if you don't mind, can you just cut and paste your question in this forum or from your email over at www.musicplayer.com in the guitar area.

This way, it also helps others benefit from what you may have asked, and it forms something of a FAQ list.

 

To get directly to my post, you may follow this link:

 

http://www.musicplayer.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=001711

 

Regards,

 

Myles

[Dylan]

I recently purchased a used "evil" Twin amp on e-Bay and I think something is definitely wrong with it. This is the model with a 25/100 watt selectable power. In audio engineering terms I would say that the amp sounds like it has a phase problem, as the sound is not as directional as it should be, and there is literally *no* low end response. I compared this to my Fender Hot Rod Deluxe and Tech 21 Trademark 10 amps and both sound much better than the Twin. The Twin should be much louder and have a much bigger and beefier sound, but it doesn't, The second channel is a total joke, it sounds like a tin machine. I looked at all of the tubes (Groove Tubes I think) and from what I can tell they look OK, but I don't really know enough about tubes to tell for sure. Do you have any idea to what might be wrong? Also, the power wattage switch doesn't seem to do anything, which strikes me as *very* odd. I e-mailed the seller this morning so hopefully he'll have some ideas for me.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dylan Walters:

I recently purchased a used "evil" Twin amp on e-Bay and I think something is definitely wrong with it. This is the model with a 25/100 watt selectable power. In audio engineering terms I would say that the amp sounds like it has a phase problem, as the sound is not as directional as it should be, and there is literally *no* low end response. I compared this to my Fender Hot Rod Deluxe and Tech 21 Trademark 10 amps and both sound much better than the Twin. The Twin should be much louder and have a much bigger and beefier sound, but it doesn't, The second channel is a total joke, it sounds like a tin machine. I looked at all of the tubes (Groove Tubes I think) and from what I can tell they look OK, but I don't really know enough about tubes to tell for sure. Do you have any idea to what might be wrong? Also, the power wattage switch doesn't seem to do anything, which strikes me as *very* odd. I e-mailed the seller this morning so hopefully he'll have some ideas for me.

Dylan,

 

I know your amp very well. It is one of three in the newer Fender Pro Tube series.

 

In any case, the first point that may be misunderstood is the power switch. At lower levels, dropping the power to 25%, will have little effect on overall volume. Dropping from 100 watts to 50 watts is only 3db, barely perceptable, and down to 25 watts is only another 3db. But at higher levels, the amp will distort sooner and play differently. That is why folks from Jeff Beck to Hendrix used 50 watters when they recorded (Beck uses 50 watters in concerts) rather than 100 watters. Even pulling two tubes in a 100 watter will not make it sound or play like a 50 watter, as the power supply will not sag like a 50 watter when pushed.

 

So ... that power switch is mostly for feel and more output stage distortion when the amp is run flat out.

 

You other problems are; the bias on these amps as set at the factory is usually wrong by the time the amp has 20 or so hours on it. The stock 6L6GC GT/Fender tubes are not even close to the best choice. They are nice and sturdy, but that is about all. They are also known as the Groove Tubes 6L6B or Sovtek 5881 WXT.

 

The only tubes that bring these amps to life, and make them do the magic of the Black Face era are the:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1693 - which are my second choice for most of my clients ...

 

and ....

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1714 - which are my first choice.

The GE's will widen your sound stage area by 15 degrees on each side and give you a huge sound, rather than the sound you have now ... a blanket of wet felt over the amp.

 

Be sure to bias these at 80mA per side.

 

If you look at my website at:

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/pastinfo.html - look for my equipment, and look at the tubes used in my Pro Reverb. This is the same amp as yours, but with a 50 watt output section.

 

The preamp stages in this amp are very unique, and the gain channel is useless unless a few things are done. They tried to (and accomplished) generating so much gain, that there is no frequency response there for harmonics. Turning the volume to 3 and gain to 3, you are already out of the range of anything usefull, and it sounds awful. The trick here is knowing what is in the preamp section, and what the tubes are doing. You cannot do this by chance, you will chase your tail forever. If you look at my website at: http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/12ax7.html at the bottom of that section, it shows just how inconsistant today's preamp tubes are, and that is also part of the problem.

 

Your amp uses Chinese 12AX7's (which Fender calls 12AX7A's) in V1 and V2. They are tested for microphonics and quality, but are still not what one would call a SAG tube. You need to get a good tube in V1 with the correct rating, and in V2, replace the 12AX7 as I do for my clients with the stuff you'll see in my equipment section on the website.

 

You also need a matched phase inverter in V4 (these amps are diffferent in layout from other Fender amps of the past), and Fender also used the 12AT7's in the past as phase inverters. For economy of stocking and cost, they use 12AX7's in these amps. The gain is close, but a 12AT7 can push almost ten times the current that a 12AX7 can. You need a 12AT7, and a matched one at that. There is data on my website on MPI's. GT has them at:

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1722

 

If you want tubes specifically selected for your amp, GT now offers this as a serice also at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773

 

There is nothing wrong with your amp, it is just that there is a lot to be done to make it do what it is capable of doing. That is what "blueprinting" is partially about.

 

Hope that helped ....

[ManInTheBox]

If it is only in channel 1, first try swapping out V1 with another tube in the amp.

 

Myles, I tried that and there was no change. I also checked again on CH2, it is there, but only when turned up past 7(hardly ever)

[ManInTheBox]

Here's an update Myles, Last time, I just swapped V1 with V2, and there was no change. I then replaced V1 with an older tube I had lying around. Reduced the hum considerably.

Only now, whenever I hit the G string hard, I get a rattling vibrating noise from the amp, most notable on the seventh fret. Any Ideas?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by tundrkys:

Here's an update Myles, Last time, I just swapped V1 with V2, and there was no change. I then replaced V1 with an older tube I had lying around. Reduced the hum considerably.

Only now, whenever I hit the G string hard, I get a rattling vibrating noise from the amp, most notable on the seventh fret. Any Ideas?

Microphonic tube probably. These amps are really sensitive to them. If you notice, the stock tubes in V1 and V2 have shrink wrap covering them from Fender to try to help in this regard.

 

Try another preamp tube like a good 12AX7C.

[Dylan]

Thanks a ton for the info, Miles. I'll see what I can do from here.

 

-Dylan

[gtrkid]

I got an Sg with 490's i want a kick'n amp. Maybe a cabinet with a head or a 2 speaker combo. I want a beefy classic rock sound like REO or AC/DC. I'm kind've on a budget like around 700$ and i like a good one with a DEAL.and where can i get that deal

[halcyon]

hello myles i have a couple questions. how closely does groove tubes match their power tubes and phase inverters. also whats a good power tube to put in my 66 bassman head to give it a slighty dirty clean? good for open chords and clean rythem at band practice levels. thanks

[Outrider]

Hi Myles

 

I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville 2x12...60w 3-channel. I've been playing it with the factory tubes and have been pretty happy with it. The 6L6's in th epower section were groove tubes with "Fender" also painted on them. They also had the "B" notation...whatever that means.

 

Anyway...the amp received a nasty blow this weekend which broke off the protective panel on the back (which was not reinforced to the body in any way) and broke the 6L6 power tubess off at the base. I got all the pieces out and replaced them with a pair of Sovteks that I bought from a salesman who knew even less about them than I do.

 

For example, I asked him in all earnestness (based on my limited knowledge) "are these tubes matched?" to which he held them up to the light and said "Sure...look at 'em. They're the same."

 

Anyway...the amp cranked back up and volumes sound relatively comparable but one thing I noticed was that on my rhythm channel (the first level distortion) I now had to turn it up to, say, 6 in order to get a comparable tone that I used to get on 4. I thought this strange because I figured the 12ax7's were responsible for the distortion levels. Does this sound like a likely scenario or am I imagining it? Why would that happen?

 

Also, as long as I'm replacing bitz on the amp, what tubes have you found most agreeable with the DeVille? I usually prefer a full boomy clean and a light/mid distorted rhythm channel. I don't use the lead channel much unless I want lots of sustain for short bursts. I mostly play classic-style hard rock with a Strat, and I really have enjoyed the growly sound of the DeVille so far.

 

Thanks!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by gtrkid:

I got an Sg with 490's i want a kick'n amp. Maybe a cabinet with a head or a 2 speaker combo. I want a beefy classic rock sound like REO or AC/DC. I'm kind've on a budget like around 700$ and i like a good one with a DEAL.and where can i get that deal

Look on Ebay.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by halcyon:

hello myles i have a couple questions. how closely does groove tubes match their power tubes and phase inverters. also whats a good power tube to put in my 66 bassman head to give it a slighty dirty clean? good for open chords and clean rythem at band practice levels. thanks

GT are the onlh folks that match their power tubes using a dynamic method. I guess you need to read the GT website a bit, an my own website a bit more.

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Outrider:

Hi Myles

 

I have a Fender Hot Rod Deville 2x12...60w 3-channel. I've been playing it with the factory tubes and have been pretty happy with it. The 6L6's in th epower section were groove tubes with "Fender" also painted on them. They also had the "B" notation...whatever that means.

 

Anyway...the amp received a nasty blow this weekend which broke off the protective panel on the back (which was not reinforced to the body in any way) and broke the 6L6 power tubess off at the base. I got all the pieces out and replaced them with a pair of Sovteks that I bought from a salesman who knew even less about them than I do.

 

For example, I asked him in all earnestness (based on my limited knowledge) "are these tubes matched?" to which he held them up to the light and said "Sure...look at 'em. They're the same."

 

Anyway...the amp cranked back up and volumes sound relatively comparable but one thing I noticed was that on my rhythm channel (the first level distortion) I now had to turn it up to, say, 6 in order to get a comparable tone that I used to get on 4. I thought this strange because I figured the 12ax7's were responsible for the distortion levels. Does this sound like a likely scenario or am I imagining it? Why would that happen?

 

Also, as long as I'm replacing bitz on the amp, what tubes have you found most agreeable with the DeVille? I usually prefer a full boomy clean and a light/mid distorted rhythm channel. I don't use the lead channel much unless I want lots of sustain for short bursts. I mostly play classic-style hard rock with a Strat, and I really have enjoyed the growly sound of the DeVille so far.

 

Thanks!

Outrider....

 

First off ... your output tubes are Fender 6L6GC / Sovtek 5881 WXT's. The are decent generic tubes. You will notice a 30 increase in sound stage image if you use the GE's. The KT-66Hp is also a much better tube, as is the 6L6S.

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1713

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1692

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1231

 

Any of these are much better than the stock tube.

 

In V1, it is Sovtek 12AX7WA, again, a tube that ships well and is sturdy, but makes your amp sound like a wet blanket is thrown over it, compared to many of the other preamp tubes. You may want to look at my 12AX7 page:

 

http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/12ax7.html

 

Myles

[Bluedoggy]

Myles,

Thanks for all your assistance here and on HC.

 

I recently picked up a Mesa Boogie Mk IIC+ with Simul-Class, reverb, and 5 band eq. And old tubes. Since I need to replace the tubes anyway, I want to get the best sound out of the amp. I have read (and confirmed with Mesa customer service) that two of the four 6L6's can be replaced with EL-34's, and that these tubes will be used when the amp is run in Class A mode. Is this a good choice? One thing I would hope to get out of this arrangement would be crunch at a lower volume. Most of my playing is lower volume.

 

So I guess my questions are:

Should I use the 2x6l6 / 2xEL-34 or stick with 4x6l6?

 

What power tubes do you recommend - both high dollar (just so I know - I probably can't afford them) and good value.

 

What combination of pre-amp tubes could I expect to optimize the quality of both channels - rhythm and lead?

 

Thanks for your help. Any other info you could pass on about this amp would be greatly appreciated.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Bluedoggy:

Myles,

Thanks for all your assistance here and on HC.

 

I recently picked up a Mesa Boogie Mk IIC+ with Simul-Class, reverb, and 5 band eq. And old tubes. Since I need to replace the tubes anyway, I want to get the best sound out of the amp. I have read (and confirmed with Mesa customer service) that two of the four 6L6's can be replaced with EL-34's, and that these tubes will be used when the amp is run in Class A mode. Is this a good choice? One thing I would hope to get out of this arrangement would be crunch at a lower volume. Most of my playing is lower volume.

 

So I guess my questions are:

Should I use the 2x6l6 / 2xEL-34 or stick with 4x6l6?

 

What power tubes do you recommend - both high dollar (just so I know - I probably can't afford them) and good value.

 

What combination of pre-amp tubes could I expect to optimize the quality of both channels - rhythm and lead?

 

Thanks for your help. Any other info you could pass on about this amp would be greatly appreciated.

Bluedoggy ....

 

Here is a Mesa response that came into work at one point. I cut and pasted it, hopefully the format is not too bad to read. This applies to the Mk 1, 2, and 3 ...... ---->>

 

There are a few routes to go here. It depends on how versitile you want your

amp to be, as the Mk 1, has basically two sounds .... Fender Blackface in

input 2, or "Carlos Santana" in input 1.

 

In my personal amp, I use a kit so I can use the amp in a few more situations.

For Blues or Jazz, I use a 12AX7C in a specific rating with a specific rise time

in V1.

 

For 60's-70's Rock and Surf music, or when using pedals, I use a

7025 in V1 with a specfic rating, as this gives a bit more brightness and

helps compensate for the loss of sparkle when using pedals in the front end.

 

For Hard Rock or the sound with the British sound, I use an ECC83 in V1,

also a specific rating.

 

I built so many of these "kits", that GT asked me to make one as a standard

item. http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1768

 

The ratings are important to me, as if V1 is too high, the input 1 gets overloaded

too fast, and by the time volume 1 is at anything more than "3" and volume 2

is at "3", you already are loosing definition.

 

For power tubes, the Mesa STR-454's (Svetlana's) used to be pretty good, but

in the last few months, I think something changed, and I suspect a slightly

weaker vacuum. I am still studying this at my own company. The mids are

not as tight as in the past, and the lows are less distinct to my ears.

 

Mesa's are biased on the cool side. There are ways around this without going

to the expense of installing an adjustable bias pot or changing the original

circuit. If you use tubes in a higher range, this brings up the idle dissapation

to a closer level to acceptable. There is less crossover notch distortion, so

the amp is smoother and less grainy. When using Mesa Tubes, always go

for their "blue" or "white" tubes.

 

Mesa vs Groove Tubes scale

 

Red 4

Yellow 4

Green 5

Gray 5

Blue 6

White 6

 

The tubes I use in my amp, and the Mk 1 and Mk II's of maybe 80% of my clients

are the GT-6L6S, which are almost something of a cross between a 6L6 and an

EL-34. In fact, they bias like an EL-34 rather than a 6L6. They are a 30 watt

tube, rather than 25 watters as EL-34 tubes, and most 6L6 tubes such as the

GE, 5881, and KT-66. These give me the articulation of the EL-34 and the beef

and push of the 6L6, and are my favorite tubes in this amp. You can get these

tubes from us: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1680 or

from a JJ distributor such as Eurotubes, who have a link on my personal

business website at http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

 

The difference with the GT 6L6S is that the bases are different, using high

temp materials, and the pins in the tube socket are rolled rather than stamped,

and polished rather than dip plated. This tears up sockets less, especially

in vintage amps. The other difference is that the GT version is tested dynamically

rather than statically. This is also explained on my personal business website.

 

I use these in a #5 rating, as their current draw is higher than the Mesa supplied

Svetlana, Sovtek, and Chinese 6L6 tubes even in a #6 rating or Mesa White

rating. The bring the bias right where it should be, still a bit cool, so you get

nicer sound and long tube life.

 

Lastly, I always use a matched phase inverter in V5. I have done a lot of

articles on this subject, posts, and stuff for Guitar Player Magazine. In

this position, I use an AX7, and the make and brand is not at all important,

so stay clear of expensive NOS tubes in this position. The MPI's are

selected for current drive and rise time, and are not part of the tone

generation stage. http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1723

 

By the way .... NOS tubes in these amps are not really needed. They have

a high gain front end, and you will not notice the same difference or improvement

as one would on a simple front end circuit with lower gain.

 

You can purchase these tubes through many places. GT dealers would be

able to order them if they are not in stock also. I can also sell these to you

as an integrated kit through my Blueprinting business, and I also discount

as do most, but might be one of the few that would give you hand selected

tubes that were dynamically traced and tested.

 

Hope this was of some help

 

Myles

GT Tech Support / Special Applications Group

[halcyon]

Originally posted by myles111:

GT are the onlh folks that match their power tubes using a dynamic method. I guess you need to read the GT website a bit, an my own website a bit more.

 

Myles[/QB]

cool. my bassman has a muddy clean channel. i read on the groove tubes site that putting a 7025 tube in V1 will help add missing treble from too many pedals in front of the amp. i have my pedals in the loop will this also help?

[Stephen J]

Hello Myles-I am a HC lurker and find your posts very informative, thank you. I am hoping to get your thoughts in relation to my UniValve#92. I have had it for over a year and tried a few different power tubes:EH EL34, EH 6L6gc, a Svetlana6550c that came stock with the amp, and my current all timer, an EH 6v6gt. I run an EH 12ax7 in the input and a JAN Philips 12AT7wc in the driver. Most often run on the roll input, low v, no attenuation- all through the THD 2x12 with an ASAT Special semi hollow.I love a range of tones, but really enjoy clean to low/mid gain grind. I play at home and bought the UV for the wattage and flexibility that my then Mesa Blue Angel didn't hold for me- but now I hear great tones in the CarrSlant6, choice clean Fenders ala Duke Levine's Lava, and other tones with smooth break up that I don't feel I have been able to eak out of my UV yet. Should my AT7 be joined or replaced by a DW7 or am I way off target? Am I using the right amp and cab for my tonal search. It is an awesome amp and I am hopeful that you can help me find that fender tone that I'd like to have within its' pallete. Your thoughts and time are respected and appreciated- Steve

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by halcyon:

Originally posted by myles111:

GT are the onlh folks that match their power tubes using a dynamic method. I guess you need to read the GT website a bit, an my own website a bit more.

 

Myles

cool. my bassman has a muddy clean channel. i read on the groove tubes site that putting a 7025 tube in V1 will help add missing treble from too many pedals in front of the amp. i have my pedals in the loop will this also help?[/QB]

halcyon ....

 

The 7025 was the original tube in black face and silver face fender amps. It is a brighter tube, and "the Fender" sound of that era. It is a long smooth plate, a very different tune sonically, than the current 12AX7WA Sovteks and other 12AX7's.

 

This will also help with your pedal issues.

 

You can get these directly off the GT website or at any GT dealer.

 

The website link is:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1588

 

These are also available in a SAG selected version on special order at:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Stephen J:

Hello Myles-I am a HC lurker and find your posts very informative, thank you. I am hoping to get your thoughts in relation to my UniValve#92. I have had it for over a year and tried a few different power tubes:EH EL34, EH 6L6gc, a Svetlana6550c that came stock with the amp, and my current all timer, an EH 6v6gt. I run an EH 12ax7 in the input and a JAN Philips 12AT7wc in the driver. Most often run on the roll input, low v, no attenuation- all through the THD 2x12 with an ASAT Special semi hollow.I love a range of tones, but really enjoy clean to low/mid gain grind. I play at home and bought the UV for the wattage and flexibility that my then Mesa Blue Angel didn't hold for me- but now I hear great tones in the CarrSlant6, choice clean Fenders ala Duke Levine's Lava, and other tones with smooth break up that I don't feel I have been able to eak out of my UV yet. Should my AT7 be joined or replaced by a DW7 or am I way off target? Am I using the right amp and cab for my tonal search. It is an awesome amp and I am hopeful that you can help me find that fender tone that I'd like to have within its' pallete. Your thoughts and time are respected and appreciated- Steve

Stephen ....

 

I think I answered this in an email you sent to me.

 

Myles

[Justin Thyme]

Myles -

 

What tubes do you recommend for the Bogner Ecstasy Classic? This is my personal favorite three channel switching amp on the market. Extremely versatile, very organic sounding and is remarkably consistent. However, the "blue" channel could use just a bit more gain for my taste. Please advise! Thanks!

[archibald3]

Hi Myles i`ve been brushin` up on your website but i`d still like some advice straight from the horses mouth!I`m going to launch into some very untechnical terms to describe what i`m looking for so hopefully you`ve delt with enough guitar-speak to figure out what i`m trying to say.I recently bought a 4 channel ,George Dennis 100 watt head that is stocked with 5 ecc83 pre-amp tubes and 4 e34L power tubes.It`s czech so i guess those are 12ax7`s in the pre-amp stage.The distortion tones are a little on the FFRRRRAAAAAAAT side instead of the chunk-kind-of sound i`m used to-almost more like a big,warm ripping fuzztone.This is cool for some things but all round i`m wondering how i might monkey with this to get more smooth chunk and less ripping BLLLAAAAAAT out of it.[i realize i`m soon to go into the idiotic guitar player hall of fame here].In some ways i guess it sounds a little more like fender distortion.My previous amp was a Vanous[which you`ve probably never heard of either] and before that a jcm800-2203-both of which i could get the chunk out of.Any advice would be appreciated!!! Arch

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Justin Thyme:

Myles -

 

What tubes do you recommend for the Bogner Ecstasy Classic? This is my personal favorite three channel switching amp on the market. Extremely versatile, very organic sounding and is remarkably consistent. However, the "blue" channel could use just a bit more gain for my taste. Please advise! Thanks!

Justin,

 

That is a hard quesion as I would need to know your style, tastes, guitar, pick? Fingers? If a pick, heavy or light.

 

Most of my Bogner clients use our TT kit and change V1 as the situation dictates:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1768

 

On output tubes, there are also a lot of ways to go.

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by archibald3:

Hi Myles i`ve been brushin` up on your website but i`d still like some advice straight from the horses mouth!I`m going to launch into some very untechnical terms to describe what i`m looking for so hopefully you`ve delt with enough guitar-speak to figure out what i`m trying to say.I recently bought a 4 channel ,George Dennis 100 watt head that is stocked with 5 ecc83 pre-amp tubes and 4 e34L power tubes.It`s czech so i guess those are 12ax7`s in the pre-amp stage.The distortion tones are a little on the FFRRRRAAAAAAAT side instead of the chunk-kind-of sound i`m used to-almost more like a big,warm ripping fuzztone.This is cool for some things but all round i`m wondering how i might monkey with this to get more smooth chunk and less ripping BLLLAAAAAAT out of it.[i realize i`m soon to go into the idiotic guitar player hall of fame here].In some ways i guess it sounds a little more like fender distortion.My previous amp was a Vanous[which you`ve probably never heard of either] and before that a jcm800-2203-both of which i could get the chunk out of.Any advice would be appreciated!!! Arch

archibald3 ....

 

The George Dennis amps are pretty fantastic. I have worked a bit with Ales Bajger, their head of R&D at the last winter NAMM show, and was very impressed with their construction. At an amp clinic I held at Westwood Music last winter, there was a fellow that brought in the same amp as yours, and wanted me to "make it even better". He had no complaints, and after throwing it on the scope, I told him there was actually nothing to do, it was performing beautifully.

 

In the preamp stage, they use JJ ECC83's for the most part, so if you want a bit less of an edge, and a bit more versitility to play rock that is a bit less hard and also to be able to use the amp for blues (if you can play blues with these monsters), then in V1 and V2, I suggest a 12AX7C as they are now using over at CAE.

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1158

 

In this amp, you may want to consider an SAG version of the 12AX7C with a rating of about 85, as too much higher than that, and the gain gets too high, and response and dynamics will suffer:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773

 

The SAG "treatment" can be done to any of the GT tubes by the way.

 

The output stage of these amps use the JJ version of the E34L. The GT version is a bit different if you examine the tube, as the GT is built on different tooling, as you can see heat sink wings welded to the plates for additional heat dissapation. These are the tubes that are used by Matchless and Bad Cat in their EL34 amps, and by Joe Walsh, Billy Gibbons, and Joe Perry to name a few. They are very stong tubes, and like the standard JJ E34L, a 30 watt EL-34 rather than a 25 watt one, as are all the others.

 

The 12AX7C would probably address your problem.

 

Myles

[SpeedysComing]

Hi guys, I normally don't post in forums anymore, but myles thought I should post this from a e-mail I sent him. Hopefully other can learn from my question. This pertains to using a THD Univalve instrument line-out into a clean ( Fender) amp. This allows power - tube distortion at any volume. Here it goes.

 

Hi Myles, I have read with great interest on your suggestion of using

>a Univalve slaved into a clean amp, mostly a Fender. You called this the

>ultimate blues amp. This has peaked my interest greatly. I would like to

>ask you a couple of questions if you have the time. I would like to try

>this with a Deluxe Reverb, but I know they do not have an effects loop.

>Also, since they are not clean when pushing them, would that have a bad

>effect when trying to crank the Uni for power tube distortion? My way to

>get around these two questions would be to get a Fender Pro Reverb. It has

>an effects loop and stays clean since it has alot more clean headroom

>power. One last thing, since I have about 1/1,000,000 of the knowledge that

>you do. I have a Boss LS-2 - a/b box - can I plug the Univalve line out

>into the normal channel with the a/b box and use the other side of the a/b

>to go to the vibrato channel to keep a clean sound? My experience is very

>limited, so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks a bunch Myles.

[doug osborne]

Myles,

 

Thanks for this great thread!

 

I have dusted, shined, and powered up my Vox Berkeley II Super Reverb Twin. I've owned this since it was about 5 years old- original Bulldogs, stand and covers (but no footswitch)

 

My immediate needs are low-level practice and recording. As is, with either the original tubes (which get thermal and crap out randomly) or the Sylvanias c. 1975, 17 watts is too loud!

 

Can you steer me in the direction of tubes which might break up sweetly at a little lower level?

 

Doug Osborne

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Speedy'sComing:

Hi guys, I normally don't post in forums anymore, but myles thought I should post this from a e-mail I sent him. Hopefully other can learn from my question. This pertains to using a THD Univalve instrument line-out into a clean ( Fender) amp. This allows power - tube distortion at any volume. Here it goes.

 

Hi Myles, I have read with great interest on your suggestion of using

>a Univalve slaved into a clean amp, mostly a Fender. You called this the

>ultimate blues amp. This has peaked my interest greatly. I would like to

>ask you a couple of questions if you have the time. I would like to try

>this with a Deluxe Reverb, but I know they do not have an effects loop.

>Also, since they are not clean when pushing them, would that have a bad

>effect when trying to crank the Uni for power tube distortion? My way to

>get around these two questions would be to get a Fender Pro Reverb. It has

>an effects loop and stays clean since it has alot more clean headroom

>power. One last thing, since I have about 1/1,000,000 of the knowledge that

>you do. I have a Boss LS-2 - a/b box - can I plug the Univalve line out

>into the normal channel with the a/b box and use the other side of the a/b

>to go to the vibrato channel to keep a clean sound? My experience is very

>limited, so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks a bunch Myles.

Speedy'sComing ....

 

Welcome to this forum

 

First off, it seems like you and I share some of the same tastes. I also have a Deluxe Reverb and a new Tube Series Fender Pro Reverb. I use the Pro Reverb for a Rickenbacker 360-12 as it is lighter than a Twin Reverb (actually, not by more than a pound or two), but the single 12" in the deeper cabinet of their new designs have even nicer low end response.

 

On my personal business website from the link at the end of all this, in my past info section, there is a section about some of my equipment, and in that bit of writing, there is a link to photos of some of the stuff.

 

The UV works very well with the Deluxe Reverb,as you can turn it to maybe 3, where it is still very clean, and then run the Univalve's line out (set in instrument level) and its pot about 40% up (and keep the Fender's input clean), dial the Univalve to the distortion, crunch, or compression you want, and then adjust the Fender Volume and Univalve back panel line out control to get the level you want as the final level for playing or recording.

 

With the Pro Reverb it works even nicer, as the distortion of the Pro Reverb is a bit overboard, and more suited to the younger crowd, but the clean channel is very blackface. Just as a side note, on V2 of the Pro Reverb, I changed this tube from a 12AX7 to a 12AY7, dropped the high gain channel gain about 60%, and most feel the distortion channel is much more usable and articulate.

 

Your name does not say where you are from, but if you are in the Los Angeles area, I would be more than happy to let you try this out on some of my stuff. Before buying a Pro, you may want to find a Univalve dealer, and try this in a store using just about any Fender amp. The Deluxe Reverb is a pretty versitile amp that has a lot of character on it's own, and the Univalve would be of benefit where more extreme distortion was wanted. The Pro Reverb has a LOT of clean headroom.

 

As far as knowing "1/1,000,000 of the knowledge that you do" ..... I am sure you have made 1/1,000,000 of "life's mistakes" than I have I don't think you'd want to trade places!

 

The A/B box is a great idea, and with no input into one of the channels of a Deluxe Reverb, they are very quiet. Actually, thanks for that idea, I had not even thought of that or tried it! Again, if you are near L.A., that idea entitles you to a free bias check and adjustment, and maybe a free tube or two

 

Myles