Feel free to ask Myles

[leadfootdriver]

Hey Myles, a few new preamp tubes have come out since I think I asked this question:

 

What do you think are the best sounding preamp tubes being made today?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by leadfootdriver:

Hey Myles, a few new preamp tubes have come out since I think I asked this question:

 

What do you think are the best sounding preamp tubes being made today?

That is like asking me what is the best hamburger made today.

 

It is user preference.

 

Now if we are talking quality control and having the tubes be within a closer range of spread, then the 12AX7R3 (Electro Harmonix 12AX7EH) and their Tung Sol.

 

On the worst side of the scale is the Ei 12AX7.

 

That is why I have my metal briefcase of about 100 various tubes that are all hand selected of different types so we can compare apples to apples in the studio or at a soundcheck as they are all the same spec or at known spec and all that is left to learn is the tonal differences rather than have this impacted by weak tubes or tubes too far off industry spec.

 

But .... on tone, that is subjective.

[captain chaos]

Hello there,

 

I know ive posted this alot so sorry i f you'v seen this, but....

 

I bought a silver face fender twin reverb with a push out volume (think its a mid 70s?)off ebay a year ago,

It had new mesa boogie 6l6 valves in. One out of the four valves has just blown (two of the valves are short and fat with a big kinda nipple thing on it, the other two valves are taller cylinder shapes ( of which one has blown) . I play a sigma jazz style fat bodied guitar and play jazz/ blues through it, Im after a clean sound thats nice and warm/fat sounding. my amp sounds prity bright/trebly at present. Im not sure about which set of 4 valves i need to get to replace the mesa boogie ones ive just blown

so far ive been tempted from loooking at the watford site of.

6L6WGB/5881/JAN PHILIPS

6L6GC/7581A/G.E

6L6GC/SVETLANA/WINGED C

but im not sure which to get or if i should actually get these. unfortunatly im skint so i dont really want to get the most expensive if it means spendin £200 for 4 new valves. but on the other hand i dont want to get inferior valves to what have just blown so if i need to spend the cash then i'll have to, can anyone help either with adice or anything? got a few gigs coming

up v v soon so any help i'll be forever grateful

yours desperatly,

kieran

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by captain chaos:

Hello there,

 

I know ive posted this alot so sorry i f you'v seen this, but....

 

I bought a silver face fender twin reverb with a push out volume (think its a mid 70s?)off ebay a year ago,

It had new mesa boogie 6l6 valves in. One out of the four valves has just blown (two of the valves are short and fat with a big kinda nipple thing on it, the other two valves are taller cylinder shapes ( of which one has blown) . I play a sigma jazz style fat bodied guitar and play jazz/ blues through it, Im after a clean sound thats nice and warm/fat sounding. my amp sounds prity bright/trebly at present. Im not sure about which set of 4 valves i need to get to replace the mesa boogie ones ive just blown

so far ive been tempted from loooking at the watford site of.

6L6WGB/5881/JAN PHILIPS

6L6GC/7581A/G.E

6L6GC/SVETLANA/WINGED C

but im not sure which to get or if i should actually get these. unfortunatly im skint so i dont really want to get the most expensive if it means spendin £200 for 4 new valves. but on the other hand i dont want to get inferior valves to what have just blown so if i need to spend the cash then i'll have to, can anyone help either with adice or anything? got a few gigs coming

up v v soon so any help i'll be forever grateful

yours desperatly,

kieran

I answered this via one of your emails.

 

You need to replace the entire matched quad, not just the broken tubes and have the amp biased at 30mA per tube.

[Caevan O’Shite]

captain chaos- Myles is right (of course, and as usual). I figured I'd post some ideas here that I've also posted on your other threads about this. (Myles, please correct me if I'm wrong with any of this.)

 

All of those are very good tubes for that amp, really!

 

If you can, get a full quartet. Much better than mixing and not matching a bunch of very different tubes.

 

If you can get any of them in a matched quartet, that'd be best.

 

Have the amp biased for the new output-tubes by a competant, experienced tech, it's kinda like setting their collective "idle". They'll sound their best and last longest. Easily worth the money, if they run too hot they can wear out extremely soon and then your original outlay is wasted, right?

 

It'd also be a very good idea to get a new "phase-inverter" (the single little preamp-type, 12AT7 or 12AX7, etc., tube closest to the big output-tubes, that drives them) to go with the new output-tubes, they work and wear-out together as a team; better yet, get a "Matched Phase Inverter", aka "MPI" (one that's been tested for close uniformity between its inner triodes), it''l get the absolute most out of those matched output-tubes, and also the longest life. The combined difference and improvement can be dramatic, like night-and-day!

 

If you can only get a pair of new output-tubes, a quick-&-dirty way to get by for now would be to only run with the two new ones (discard the other old ones), while simultaneously wiring-up only one of the two twelve-inch speakers inside the cab (leaving the other one disconnected) so as to be running into 8 ohms, effectively halving the output-impedance (a 4-ohm out going into an 8 ohm speaker, as opposed to the normal '4 ohm out/ two 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel for a 4 ohm load'). "Half the tubes, half the impedance". A good 50 watt Twin with one 12" speaker beats a not-so-good 100 watt Twin with two 12s! The difference in volume and headroom shouldn't be very noticable here.

[captain chaos]

flippin eck!

 

think I'll get the valves and send it to an experienced guy to do the above (I'm rather lost on this as I'm a complete amp novice)

 

many thanks for the detailed advice there. v v much appreciated

 

kieran

[Hardtail]

Myles,

 

During the weekend, I tend to practice in hour spurts. I turn the amp on (Fender Hot Rod Deluxe), let it warm up for 10 minutes then practice for an hour.

 

Then, real life takes me away for awhile. Once that's done, I do it all over again... turning on the amp, letting it warm up... etc.

 

I can do this anywhere between 4 and 5 times on a given weekend day.

 

Am I hurting the amp by turning it off/on in this manner? Should I just leave it running longer (in standby mode) for the time I'm away (if it's not too long like leaving the house etc)?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by HardTail:

Myles,

 

During the weekend, I tend to practice in hour spurts. I turn the amp on (Fender Hot Rod Deluxe), let it warm up for 10 minutes then practice for an hour.

 

Then, real life takes me away for awhile. Once that's done, I do it all over again... turning on the amp, letting it warm up... etc.

 

I can do this anywhere between 4 and 5 times on a given weekend day.

 

Am I hurting the amp by turning it off/on in this manner? Should I just leave it running longer (in standby mode) for the time I'm away (if it's not too long like leaving the house etc)?

You are doing the best thing. If you are walking away from the amp for 15 minutes ... such as on a break between sets at a club or something, then use standby and leave the power on. If you are leaving for an hour or so as you mention, then turn the amp off.

[PeeMonkey]

Hey Myles,

 

I just picked up a 5150 head for a really good price locally. However the tubes in this thing are some no name thing. I basically need to re-tube this thing. What tubes would you suggest I put in this thing for playing mainly metal and classic rock on this thing. Also is there anyway tubes can affect the rythm channel also?

 

I never re-tubed an amp before, so is it just as easy as pulling the tubes and replacing them? Or is it much harder and should I take it to an amp tech?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Hey Myles,

 

I just picked up a 5150 head for a really good price locally. However the tubes in this thing are some no name thing. I basically need to re-tube this thing. What tubes would you suggest I put in this thing for playing mainly metal and classic rock on this thing. Also is there anyway tubes can affect the rythm channel also?

 

I never re-tubed an amp before, so is it just as easy as pulling the tubes and replacing them? Or is it much harder and should I take it to an amp tech?

You can replace the tubes yourself.

 

On the preamp tubes, they impact all channels.

 

For what you want use an SAG-MHG kit for V1, V2, and the phase inverter.

 

For output tubes use the 6L6S in a 5-6 rating and if the amp has the stock bias these will be plug and play. If you order off the GT website put in a comment asking for a 5-6 rating only.

[PeeMonkey]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Hey Myles,

 

I just picked up a 5150 head for a really good price locally. However the tubes in this thing are some no name thing. I basically need to re-tube this thing. What tubes would you suggest I put in this thing for playing mainly metal and classic rock on this thing. Also is there anyway tubes can affect the rythm channel also?

 

I never re-tubed an amp before, so is it just as easy as pulling the tubes and replacing them? Or is it much harder and should I take it to an amp tech?

You can replace the tubes yourself.

 

On the preamp tubes, they impact all channels.

 

For what you want use an SAG-MHG kit for V1, V2, and the phase inverter.

 

For output tubes use the 6L6S in a 5-6 rating and if the amp has the stock bias these will be plug and play. If you order off the GT website put in a comment asking for a 5-6 rating only.

Kool, Thanks alot. For the power tubes does the brand make a big difference?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Hey Myles,

 

I just picked up a 5150 head for a really good price locally. However the tubes in this thing are some no name thing. I basically need to re-tube this thing. What tubes would you suggest I put in this thing for playing mainly metal and classic rock on this thing. Also is there anyway tubes can affect the rythm channel also?

 

I never re-tubed an amp before, so is it just as easy as pulling the tubes and replacing them? Or is it much harder and should I take it to an amp tech?

You can replace the tubes yourself.

 

On the preamp tubes, they impact all channels.

 

For what you want use an SAG-MHG kit for V1, V2, and the phase inverter.

 

For output tubes use the 6L6S in a 5-6 rating and if the amp has the stock bias these will be plug and play. If you order off the GT website put in a comment asking for a 5-6 rating only.

Kool, Thanks alot. For the power tubes does the brand make a big difference?

You can get the 6L6S from many places but it is a specific type of 6L6 (JJ) but if you want to get a 5-6 rating, only GT has these ratings from dynamic rather than static matching. If the tubes come from another source you will need to check the bias and probably have it adjusted.

[PeeMonkey]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Originally posted by myles111:

quote:

---

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

Hey Myles,

 

I just picked up a 5150 head for a really good price locally. However the tubes in this thing are some no name thing. I basically need to re-tube this thing. What tubes would you suggest I put in this thing for playing mainly metal and classic rock on this thing. Also is there anyway tubes can affect the rythm channel also?

 

I never re-tubed an amp before, so is it just as easy as pulling the tubes and replacing them? Or is it much harder and should I take it to an amp tech?

You can replace the tubes yourself.

 

On the preamp tubes, they impact all channels.

 

For what you want use an SAG-MHG kit for V1, V2, and the phase inverter.

 

For output tubes use the 6L6S in a 5-6 rating and if the amp has the stock bias these will be plug and play. If you order off the GT website put in a comment asking for a 5-6 rating only.

Kool, Thanks alot. For the power tubes does the brand make a big difference?

You can get the 6L6S from many places but it is a specific type of 6L6 (JJ) but if you want to get a 5-6 rating, only GT has these ratings from dynamic rather than static matching. If the tubes come from another source you will need to check the bias and probably have it adjusted.

---

Sorry for the many questions, but what is a good price range I should be paying on the power and preamp tubes, I don't want to be paying too much for them when I decide to purchase them.

 

Also regarding the pre-amp tubes, the kit is only 3 preamp tubes, but the amp holds 5 preamp tubes, so what do I use to fill up the other 2 spots?

 

Thanks Alot

[PeeMonkey]

What are the other 2 Tubes for if the amp holds 5 Preamp tubes?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by PeeMonkey:

What are the other 2 Tubes for if the amp holds 5 Preamp tubes?

Three preamp tubes and two output tubes

[Teahead]

Hi Myles, I'm considering buying a Hoffman Board Upgrade for my 2003 AC30tbx reissue. Just wondering if you're familiar with what they do. Here's a link to the supplier... http://www.tonezoneonline.com/boards.html

 

Is this an advisable upgrade? Would it be more of an improvement in reliabilty or tone?

 

Perhaps I would get better value from spending the money elsewhere on the amp, such as replacing the OT with a MM version?

 

I already have a few sets of nice nos tubes that I love to hear in this amp, but as it's my one and only workhorse, I'd like to get the most from it and hopefully make it more reliable in the process.

 

Many thanks for your help & advice...

 

Tea.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Teahead:

Hi Myles, I'm considering buying a Hoffman Board Upgrade for my 2003 AC30tbx reissue. Just wondering if you're familiar with what they do. Here's a link to the supplier... http://www.tonezoneonline.com/boards.html

 

Is this an advisable upgrade? Would it be more of an improvement in reliabilty or tone?

 

Perhaps I would get better value from spending the money elsewhere on the amp, such as replacing the OT with a MM version?

 

I already have a few sets of nice nos tubes that I love to hear in this amp, but as it's my one and only workhorse, I'd like to get the most from it and hopefully make it more reliable in the process.

 

Many thanks for your help & advice...

 

Tea.

Tea ...

 

Leave the board alone for now. The most bang for the $$$$ by far is a Mercury Magnetics output transformer.

[Teahead]

Thanks Myles.

 

Oh, would any particular model be best suited in your opinion?

 

Albion, Hadden & Woden mean little to me!

[shooto]

Hi Myles- I think I have a squeely pickup that I want to pot...it's a Jackson J50 with a plastic cover...are those (plasic cover) able to come off to be able to do that?...and if they are, how do you do it!

 

thanks!!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Teahead:

Thanks Myles.

 

Oh, would any particular model be best suited in your opinion?

 

Albion, Hadden & Woden mean little to me!

I love their Axiom series in these amps.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by shooto:

Hi Myles- I think I have a squeely pickup that I want to pot...it's a Jackson J50 with a plastic cover...are those (plasic cover) able to come off to be able to do that?...and if they are, how do you do it!

 

thanks!!

I generally dip pots in beeswax if they are microphonic but there may be newer methods.

[Teahead]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by Teahead:

Thanks Myles.

 

Oh, would any particular model be best suited in your opinion?

 

Albion, Hadden & Woden mean little to me!

I love their Axiom series in these amps.

Mmm, they only seem to offer Axiom Power Transformers for the AC30. The only OT's listed are Tone Clones. I'll shoot them an email and work it out from there...

 

Thanks again for your help, Myles!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Teahead:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by Teahead:

Thanks Myles.

 

Oh, would any particular model be best suited in your opinion?

 

Albion, Hadden & Woden mean little to me!

I love their Axiom series in these amps.

Mmm, they only seem to offer Axiom Power Transformers for the AC30. The only OT's listed are Tone Clones. I'll shoot them an email and work it out from there...

 

Thanks again for your help, Myles!

The Tone clones are the best actually.... The Axioms are what I use in some Marshall amps now that you brought that to my attention.

[CRISPY 1]

Hi myles. I need to have this question answered, it's doing my head in and i can't find any decent explanations on the net.

 

Ok, all I'm wondering is, how /why does a push/pull amp cancel out even harmonics? I understand it has something to do with the "balanced output" of the tubes but then how can it allow odd order harmonics. What do the even's have that the odds don't!

 

Could you try an answer this in as much detail as possible for me or point me to a link that might explain this for me.

 

Thanks a lot

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by CRISPY 1:

Hi myles. I need to have this question answered, it's doing my head in and i can't find any decent explanations on the net.

 

Ok, all I'm wondering is, how /why does a push/pull amp cancel out even harmonics? I understand it has something to do with the "balanced output" of the tubes but then how can it allow odd order harmonics. What do the even's have that the odds don't!

 

Could you try an answer this in as much detail as possible for me or point me to a link that might explain this for me.

 

Thanks a lot

It is not that push/pull cancel out harmonics, they drive a tube more efficiently in some ways that a pure single ended class A amp and in the latter the tube is driven harder so to speak.

 

Sort of like why a 15 watt sound great at 100dB while a Marshall stack is not close to where it sound great.

[matt740]

I'm told you are all things tube, so if you have any advice, I'd much appreciate it.

 

My Champ gives a good clear tone yet, when I run a fuzz through it (any style, be it germanium or overdrive or distortion) it has an untamed frizzy high end. Ironically, the most effective way to fix this is to run a SansAmp last in the effects chain--in a sense, the amp's high end is very "hi-fi". What I'd like out it is more of a full-bodied, warm sound, or as much as is possible through an 8" speaker.

 

Is this something fixable? On a similar note, the hi and lo pots have little effect, which may have something to do with the problem. The tubes are most likely original, and the speaker is stock.

 

thanks,

matt

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by matt740:

I'm told you are all things tube, so if you have any advice, I'd much appreciate it.

 

My Champ gives a good clear tone yet, when I run a fuzz through it (any style, be it germanium or overdrive or distortion) it has an untamed frizzy high end. Ironically, the most effective way to fix this is to run a SansAmp last in the effects chain--in a sense, the amp's high end is very "hi-fi". What I'd like out it is more of a full-bodied, warm sound, or as much as is possible through an 8" speaker.

 

Is this something fixable? On a similar note, the hi and lo pots have little effect, which may have something to do with the problem. The tubes are most likely original, and the speaker is stock.

 

thanks,

matt

Matt,

 

Try a 12AY7 in the V1 slot.

[guitarisawayoflife21]

I posted a thread with this question then I remembered about this one, so here it is again:

 

I put new strings on my showmaster the other day and the tremolo was pulled up higher than it should be when I tuned all the strings to standard, which has led to my tuning having a mind of its own. It changes alot over the course of playing. I took those strings off and put new ones on, trying to fix it, but the tremolo went higher than normal when I tuned it again. I have locking tuners on it and a 2-Point Synchronized Tremolo. Is there something I might be doing(or not doing)when putting new strings on to make this happen, or should I just bring it into the shop and see what they have to say?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by guitarisawayoflife21:

I posted a thread with this question then I remembered about this one, so here it is again:

 

I put new strings on my showmaster the other day and the tremolo was pulled up higher than it should be when I tuned all the strings to standard, which has led to my tuning having a mind of its own. It changes alot over the course of playing. I took those strings off and put new ones on, trying to fix it, but the tremolo went higher than normal when I tuned it again. I have locking tuners on it and a 2-Point Synchronized Tremolo. Is there something I might be doing(or not doing)when putting new strings on to make this happen, or should I just bring it into the shop and see what they have to say?

Beats me .... sorry I cannot help ..... I always turn my guitar over to great folks to work on them when necessary ... I stick to amps and occasionally wind a few pickups.

[Greg B.]

I want to build or buy a 10" or 12" speaker cab for my new Epi Valve Jr. head. How can you determine the ohms of a speaker if it doesn't say on it? And what are your thoughts on getting a broken combo and gutting the electronics and using just the speaker as an extention cab? I'm thinking about this as a lightweight alternative and alot easier than building. I have a Peavey Classic 410E cab that sounds great with the head, but it is not very portable and extremely loud. Thanks for you help.