Feel free to ask Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by James-Italy:

Myles, I posted this in the "Tube Primer" thread since it was continuing my discussion with Guitplayer. I posted it here also because it's a true Ask Myles post!

 

Armed with Myles's Tube Primer in hand I was able to discuss tubes with the guitar-shop guy like I knew what I was talking about! Guitplayer, I followed your advice and bought what we said yesterday.

 

GT6V6"NOS"

12AX7 (EH?) for the V1

12AT7 (EH?) for the V2

 

Myles, do you think I need to run the Univalve in LoV as Guitplayer suggested? Is it gonna hurt if I run it in HiV?

I read in your primer that the 6V6 holds up well to 450+ volts on the plate. The Univalve manual states that HiV applies @450-470v (depending on the tube) and @300-320v on LoV.

 

Photo of the tubes

 

Edit: When I installed them today the Univalve has written on it the warning (like Guitplayer said) to only run 6V6 in LoV. So that settles that. There's more than enough crunch with LoV I found.

 

Instead I have another question. On the Univalve the Pre-amp tubes are labeled Input and Drive. Which is V1 and which is V2? I installed the AX7 in Input and the AT7 in drive. Is that good?

James-Italy .........

 

Where did you find GT 6V6NOS tubes? We don't even sell those anymore, they are kept for personal stash.

 

The 12AX7EH is a good tube, but the 12AT7EH can have some issues in cathode follower tone circuits in some amps.

 

If you run a 6V6 in high voltage in the UV, you will destroy it. This is a class A amp, and 450 plate volts, even in A/B is a killer on these tubes.

 

Tubes like current, not voltage.

 

Your UV tube on the left, facing the amp, is V1.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by guitplayer:

James,

 

Myles hasn't gotten to this yet, so I'll take a stab at your questions.

 

First, I have the AX7 in the input and the AT7 in the drive... I do believe they are V1 and V2 as you guessed. At least they ACT like it...

 

If you run your 6V6 on HiV, you'll quickly burn it up if I understand it correctly. I recall Myles saying somewhere that he DOES run a 6V6 sometimes on HiV, but then he has a pretty easy availability to replacement tubes compared to us!

 

One other comment, I assume ALL of our tubes wear a bit more on HiV, and I personally LIKE the "spongier" sound of LoV with my tube set... However just from a "sound" standpoint, you should try your HiV capable ones on both settings and see and hear the differences for yourself.

 

guitplayer

guitplayer ...........

 

Good answer. Maybe you can be the next forum moderator, as after taking to Mike Molenda about a week or so ago, I may step down due to busyness, and they may be looking for a new moderator.

 

In any case .... very good answer.

[James-Italy]

Originally posted by myles111:

Where did you find GT 6V6NOS tubes? We don't even sell those anymore, they are kept for personal stash.

 

The 12AX7EH is a good tube, but the 12AT7EH can have some issues in cathode follower tone circuits in some amps.

 

If you run a 6V6 in high voltage in the UV, you will destroy it. This is a class A amp, and 450 plate volts, even in A/B is a killer on these tubes.

 

Tubes like current, not voltage.

 

Your UV tube on the left, facing the amp, is V1.

Thanks Myles! Guess they've probably been laying around my local music store for a while now. I'll go back on Saturday and see if they've got anymore. I think I paid @$20 (hard to tell cause it was mixed in with the Les Paul), but I think I'm a pretty good customer. I also had them order the THD UV for me so they know why I want them.

 

I'd heartily support Guitplayer as a Mod fwiw.

[timrocker]

Hi Myles,

I just acquired a Roland JC-120. I was a little surprised to learn that it doesn't have an FX loop. The spring reverb on it is fine, but I think I could really benefit from using a delay with it. Is it possible to unplug the reverb tank and (using adapters or?) put a delay there instead? Or is the signal level there totally wrong for that? Thanks a bunch! Tim

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by timrocker:

Hi Myles,

I just acquired a Roland JC-120. I was a little surprised to learn that it doesn't have an FX loop. The spring reverb on it is fine, but I think I could really benefit from using a delay with it. Is it possible to unplug the reverb tank and (using adapters or?) put a delay there instead? Or is the signal level there totally wrong for that? Thanks a bunch! Tim

Tim,

 

This is really not practical in this amp, as it would require a lot of changes and impact other nice aspects of the amp.

 

Sorry.

[Chip McDonald]

Hey Myles.. I've got an old Gibson GA40 that sounds great *to me* - super dark, warm and thick... Except..

 

Works fine at a low volume.

 

Turn it up and it starts oscillating, the higher you turn it up the higher the pitch. Not a motorboating sound, but a loud constant low pitch that will rise if you turn the volume up, a feedback sort of effect.

 

New-ish tubes, don't seem to be microphonic. I presume something is failing, grid resistors? I'm not getting false notes (at lower volumes)..

 

My questions are:

 

A) How much would it be to blue print it (I'm broke now, but hopefully at some juncture...) and...

 

B) With everything new - non carbon resistors, etc., do you think it will get brighter, or just "quieter"?

 

C) What tubes could I put in it to make it even *darker* still?

 

D) If I put a new AC cord on it, I only need to solder the ground to the chassis, or would a specific point on the chassis be better? (the stock AC cord is actually bare at some points..

I had to use electrical tape to cover some of it...)

 

I love the way it sounds now - I've never heard an amp that sounds as dark, swampy and warm as it.. Had to stick a crappy Eminence speaker in it after frying the stock Jensen, that made it even darker.. But I haven't heard one of these old GA series amps "fresh", so I don't know how it would sound reconditioned... The thing is, it's so cool sounding I almost don't even want to mess with it so I can use it for recording certain gritty lead sounds at a low level..

 

?

[Blue Note]

Myles,

 

I recieved my GT bias tool kit and MHG-SAG kit last week and finally got around to working on my JCM 800. The two matched sets of STR-450's from Mesa Boogie were within 10% of each other but I chose to put the matched quartet of Svetlana's from Mike at KCA in and set the milli-amp draw at 36. The amp sounds better than it ever has.

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

Blue Note

[PBBPaul]

Myles,

 

I dont know if it can be said enough, but your help here is invaluable to us out here in the field. Thank you.

 

As I mentioned not too long ago, I recently picked up a project amp: a 1965 Bandmaster. I plan on using it in a duplicate of the wonderful Bassman centered rig that I have now. While cleaning it up and playing with it, Ive uncovered a couple of issues that I wonder if you could help with. First, on the Vibrato channel (which I plan to use) - If I have the bright switch on and crank the treble past 7 or so, I get a terrible screeching noise. I have thoroughly cleaned both the switch and the pot but the issue is obviously elsewhere. Where do you think I should start? The second issue is a distortion that occurs when I hit the amp hard at higher levels (typically 5 and above). Its not a nice distortion, more like a slight buzz and comes in and out suddenly rather than gradually. It happens especially on the lower notes and big chords. Any ideas? Other than these two problems, the amp is wonderful sounding. Im currently running through a single Celestian 12 but will likely be moving to a pair of tens in the future. This brings up one last question, The specs I have found for the amp (here BTW: Fender Field Guide ) indicate that it is designed for a 4-ohm load. Is there any way that I can verify this?

 

Thank you again for all of your help. The Tube Primer is outstanding by the way.

 

Paul

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Chip McDonald:

Hey Myles.. I've got an old Gibson GA40 that sounds great *to me* - super dark, warm and thick... Except..

 

Works fine at a low volume.

 

Turn it up and it starts oscillating, the higher you turn it up the higher the pitch. Not a motorboating sound, but a loud constant low pitch that will rise if you turn the volume up, a feedback sort of effect.

 

New-ish tubes, don't seem to be microphonic. I presume something is failing, grid resistors? I'm not getting false notes (at lower volumes)..

 

My questions are:

 

A) How much would it be to blue print it (I'm broke now, but hopefully at some juncture...) and...

 

B) With everything new - non carbon resistors, etc., do you think it will get brighter, or just "quieter"?

 

C) What tubes could I put in it to make it even *darker* still?

 

D) If I put a new AC cord on it, I only need to solder the ground to the chassis, or would a specific point on the chassis be better? (the stock AC cord is actually bare at some points..

I had to use electrical tape to cover some of it...)

 

I love the way it sounds now - I've never heard an amp that sounds as dark, swampy and warm as it.. Had to stick a crappy Eminence speaker in it after frying the stock Jensen, that made it even darker.. But I haven't heard one of these old GA series amps "fresh", so I don't know how it would sound reconditioned... The thing is, it's so cool sounding I almost don't even want to mess with it so I can use it for recording certain gritty lead sounds at a low level..

 

?

Chip .........

 

If you want to make the amp a bit less dark (though the stock sound is super), this can be done with some preamp grading.

 

On your proplem of motorboating ... bad preamp tube or two, probably very mismatched output tubes.

 

False notes .... power supply caps are shot.

 

I am backlogged until at least the end of summer on blueprinting. My current client base keeps me busy. Maybe at the end of September I may have an opening.

 

Metal film resistors are quieter than CC resistors. Brightness is more in the area of tubes and tone caps.

 

If you want it darker, we could hand select some tubes.

 

A ground to the chassis is fine and dandy.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

I recieved my GT bias tool kit and MHG-SAG kit last week and finally got around to working on my JCM 800. The two matched sets of STR-450's from Mesa Boogie were within 10% of each other but I chose to put the matched quartet of Svetlana's from Mike at KCA in and set the milli-amp draw at 36. The amp sounds better than it ever has.

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

Blue Note

Blue Note ........

 

On the Mesa 450's .... these are great Siemens NOS EL-34's and Mesa does a great job of matching.

 

You may see a 10% static difference, but what I have found looking at Mesa matching, is their dynamic matches are super, so they do more than just static match. I would bet, that on a vacuum tube curve tracer, that Mesa tubes at 10% off statically, (a great match in any case), would be even closer to perfect in a dynamic match.

 

The Svets from Mike will be super. Depending on plate voltage, you may even want to try 38 milliamps. If you send me the plate voltage, I will give you a range.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by PBBPaul:

Myles,

 

I dont know if it can be said enough, but your help here is invaluable to us out here in the field. Thank you.

 

As I mentioned not too long ago, I recently picked up a project amp: a 1965 Bandmaster. I plan on using it in a duplicate of the wonderful Bassman centered rig that I have now. While cleaning it up and playing with it, Ive uncovered a couple of issues that I wonder if you could help with. First, on the Vibrato channel (which I plan to use) - If I have the bright switch on and crank the treble past 7 or so, I get a terrible screeching noise. I have thoroughly cleaned both the switch and the pot but the issue is obviously elsewhere. Where do you think I should start? The second issue is a distortion that occurs when I hit the amp hard at higher levels (typically 5 and above). Its not a nice distortion, more like a slight buzz and comes in and out suddenly rather than gradually. It happens especially on the lower notes and big chords. Any ideas? Other than these two problems, the amp is wonderful sounding. Im currently running through a single Celestian 12 but will likely be moving to a pair of tens in the future. This brings up one last question, The specs I have found for the amp (here BTW: Fender Field Guide ) indicate that it is designed for a 4-ohm load. Is there any way that I can verify this?

 

Thank you again for all of your help. The Tube Primer is outstanding by the way.

 

Paul

Paul,

 

The Bandmaster was designed for it's partner 2x12 cabinet, and yes, it is a 4 ohm load expectation.

 

I'd first check all the preamp tubes, it sounds like ocillation issues. The caps may also be old and dry, so shot.

 

Your power tubes are probably shot, and at the least, check the bias, and on your amp, look for at least 28 milliamps per tube.

 

I'd also check those power supply caps under the cover on the chassis. Lift one end of each cap and test, or, since you will go to that much trouble to check, I'd just replace them. 30+ years on power supply caps is a LONG time.

[PBBPaul]

Originally posted by myles111:

Paul,

 

The Bandmaster was designed for it's partner 2x12 cabinet, and yes, it is a 4 ohm load expectation.

 

I'd first check all the preamp tubes, it sounds like ocillation issues. The caps may also be old and dry, so shot.

 

Your power tubes are probably shot, and at the least, check the bias, and on your amp, look for at least 28 milliamps per tube.

 

I'd also check those power supply caps under the cover on the chassis. Lift one end of each cap and test, or, since you will go to that much trouble to check, I'd just replace them. 30+ years on power supply caps is a LONG time.

 

Thank you Myles,

 

I have tried a couple of different sets of pre and power tubes with the same results. Currently installed are a set of lightly used Sovtek pre amp tubes that came stock with my Blues DeVille and a matched set of Groove Tubes 6L6's (C I think, the ones with the red base) with a 5 rating. I've just been goofing around so have not checked the bias yet. This amp has been recapped at least once but I'm not sure about the power supply caps. They look to be original so that is a great point. I'll test and/or replace them.

 

Thanks again,

 

Paul

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by PBBPaul:

Originally posted by myles111:

Paul,

 

The Bandmaster was designed for it's partner 2x12 cabinet, and yes, it is a 4 ohm load expectation.

 

I'd first check all the preamp tubes, it sounds like ocillation issues. The caps may also be old and dry, so shot.

 

Your power tubes are probably shot, and at the least, check the bias, and on your amp, look for at least 28 milliamps per tube.

 

I'd also check those power supply caps under the cover on the chassis. Lift one end of each cap and test, or, since you will go to that much trouble to check, I'd just replace them. 30+ years on power supply caps is a LONG time.

Thank you Myles,

 

I have tried a couple of different sets of pre and power tubes with the same results. Currently installed are a set of lightly used Sovtek pre amp tubes that came stock with my Blues DeVille and a matched set of Groove Tubes 6L6's (C I think, the ones with the red base) with a 5 rating. I've just been goofing around so have not checked the bias yet. This amp has been recapped at least once but I'm not sure about the power supply caps. They look to be original so that is a great point. I'll test and/or replace them.

 

Thanks again,

 

Paul

 

Paul ....

 

If you want to talk about this, feel free to call me at work during the day at 1-800-459-5687 toll free.

 

Myles

[Georgebowen]

Myles,

I wanted to know about the tonal quality of power tubes. Right now I think I like el34 because of my Music Man hd120 and the marshalls I've had (JCM900 100w, JCM2000 TSL60) except for the really dry marshall clean. I had a mesa DC5 with 2 6L6's and I didn't really like the clean tone because ti sounded really cold and kind of dead.

I have a Fender Blues Jr. and I think it runs on an EL84 and I like that tone alot too but I only use the amp for Jazz stuff.

 

Im looking for a warm fenderish clean tone like my music man head (Its only one channel though). But with a good lead channel.

 

Ive looked at the bogner Shiva head and you can get it in EL34's or 6L6's, how would this change the tone of the amp.

 

thanks in advance

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Georgebowen:

Myles,

I wanted to know about the tonal quality of power tubes. Right now I think I like el34 because of my Music Man hd120 and the marshalls I've had (JCM900 100w, JCM2000 TSL60) except for the really dry marshall clean. I had a mesa DC5 with 2 6L6's and I didn't really like the clean tone because ti sounded really cold and kind of dead.

I have a Fender Blues Jr. and I think it runs on an EL84 and I like that tone alot too but I only use the amp for Jazz stuff.

 

Im looking for a warm fenderish clean tone like my music man head (Its only one channel though). But with a good lead channel.

 

Ive looked at the bogner Shiva head and you can get it in EL34's or 6L6's, how would this change the tone of the amp.

 

thanks in advance

Georgebowen........

 

All these questions and a lot more are answered in my Tube Primer, mentioned in another post somewhere in this forum ... with info on how to get one.

[mstreck]

Myles:

 

I posted an amp question in the guitar forum and it was recommended that I seek out your advice.

 

Can you take a look at this post and see what you can do?

 

http://www.musicgearnetwork.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=004294

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[ridger]

I recently posted a thread about amplifier suggestions/opinions. I've gotten several suggestions to go with different tube amps, however I'm not familiar with any of them. In your opinion, which of the following would you recommend (I play classic rock, southern rock, blues and country). Thanks.

 

Roland Cube 60

Peavey Delta Blues 210

Peavey Classic 30

Fender Blues Jr.

Carvin Nomad

Fender Hot Rod Deluxe

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by mstreck:

Myles:

 

I posted an amp question in the guitar forum and it was recommended that I seek out your advice.

 

Can you take a look at this post and see what you can do?

 

http://www.musicgearnetwork.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=004294

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Mike,

 

Please copy and paste what you want me to look at a post over hear. I cannot keep track of things in multiple areas.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by ridger:

I recently posted a thread about amplifier suggestions/opinions. I've gotten several suggestions to go with different tube amps, however I'm not familiar with any of them. In your opinion, which of the following would you recommend (I play classic rock, southern rock, blues and country). Thanks.

 

Roland Cube 60

Peavey Delta Blues 210

Peavey Classic 30

Fender Blues Jr.

Carvin Nomad

Fender Hot Rod Deluxe

ridger .........

 

This is all personal taste, but some basic feedback on these are:

 

Roland Cube 60 - Fun amp, I have one of these from long ago, but these are solid state amps, and are anything but a blues amp, and not all that versitile in many areas.

 

Peavey Delta Blues 210

Peavey Classic 30 ......... both great amps, and for the money, a great value. You would need to listen to these, or any of them, and decide for yourself as to tone, features, etc.

 

Fender Blues Jr.

Fender Hot Rod Deluxe[/QB]

......... both terrific amps, the backline of many folks.

 

Carvin Nomad - great value for the money, nicely done.

 

Guess this was of absolutely no help in the end ... sorry.

 

The first step is to define if you want a Class A sound and feel or a Class A/B sound and feel. Next, you need to decide between EL-84 or 6L6 output tubes.

 

I have a document on tubes that is mentioned in another post in here that may help on those thoughts.

[daddyelmis]

Originally posted by myles111:

just post a comment here and when I see the email notification I will answer back here as quickly as I am able.

Myles:

 

I greatly enjoy, and very much appreciate, your input on the Guitar Forum over at Music Player.com. I'd like your opinion on my pending choice of attenuators . . . THD Hot Plate vs Alesandro Muzzle.

 

I'm playing a wide variety of cover material that requires a pretty broad spectrum of tones. I presently play through a Marshall DSL201 with 12AX7WA Philips-JAN and JJ/Tesla EL84s. I think for the money this is a fine amp whose output can be driven to get the power tubes cranking without killing people. I run a Digitech 2101 in the loop for digital effects and rely on a Fulltone Fulldrive 2 for front end overdrive when I need it. However, even at 20w this amp is too loud on many occasions , hence my look into attenuators. I always mic the cabinet to put the guitar into the FOH mix, so the real issue is stage volume and pissing off my keyboard player. I do love using the guitar volume and pick attack to control distortion, and with the Fulldrive going into "bigger" distortion is just a step away.

 

Based on everything I can read, both the THD Hot Plate and the Alessandro are good units, the Hot Plate being a bit more "feature rich." Do you have an opinion on these two units. Is there any risk in buying a used unit (i.e., is there a "life" aspect to these units, and can they themselves be damaged if the prior owner mismatched impedence)?

 

As always, thanks for your input and continued support!

[DangerousDanimal]

What do you know about Ruby Tubes vs. other brands?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by daddyelmis:

Originally posted by myles111:

just post a comment here and when I see the email notification I will answer back here as quickly as I am able.

Myles:

 

I greatly enjoy, and very much appreciate, your input on the Guitar Forum over at Music Player.com. I'd like your opinion on my pending choice of attenuators . . . THD Hot Plate vs Alesandro Muzzle.

 

I'm playing a wide variety of cover material that requires a pretty broad spectrum of tones. I presently play through a Marshall DSL201 with 12AX7WA Philips-JAN and JJ/Tesla EL84s. I think for the money this is a fine amp whose output can be driven to get the power tubes cranking without killing people. I run a Digitech 2101 in the loop for digital effects and rely on a Fulltone Fulldrive 2 for front end overdrive when I need it. However, even at 20w this amp is too loud on many occasions , hence my look into attenuators. I always mic the cabinet to put the guitar into the FOH mix, so the real issue is stage volume and pissing off my keyboard player. I do love using the guitar volume and pick attack to control distortion, and with the Fulldrive going into "bigger" distortion is just a step away.

 

Based on everything I can read, both the THD Hot Plate and the Alessandro are good units, the Hot Plate being a bit more "feature rich." Do you have an opinion on these two units. Is there any risk in buying a used unit (i.e., is there a "life" aspect to these units, and can they themselves be damaged if the prior owner mismatched impedence)?

 

As always, thanks for your input and continued support!

daddyelmis.........

 

Both of these are great attenuators. It will basically boil down to price, and which has the features that are most important to you for the most part.

 

They are both very nicely built, and either one will give years of service.

 

On the issue of a used unit, both of these can take a lot more than most folks will ever throw at them, and the amps would wear out tubes at max output long before you'd wear either of these out ... in fact, there is really nothing to wear

out on either of these.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by DangerousDanimal:

What do you know about Ruby Tubes vs. other brands?

DangerousDanimal ..........

 

It seems you have not looked at my website at all?

[mstreck]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by mstreck:

Myles:

 

I posted an amp question in the guitar forum and it was recommended that I seek out your advice.

 

Can you take a look at this post and see what you can do?

 

http://www.musicgearnetwork.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=004294

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Mike,

 

Please copy and paste what you want me to look at a post over hear. I cannot keep track of things in multiple areas.

Sorry... I guess I should have done that in the first place:

 

My 2-year-old Fender Champion 30 (solid state) amp is giving me fits. Sometimes I get a "warbly" sound out of it (especially when playing lower notes with distortion) and sometimes it just cuts out altogether. I never turn the volume up past "4", so I doubt if it is a blown speaker.

 

Any ideas as to what *I* can do to repair it? I'm not totally incompetent around a circuit board. I can test and replace components and but that's about it. Don't ask me to design something.

 

BTW, I don't use it to gig but it is great for practicing... so I don't want to junk it if I don't have to. I also don't want to lay down money to someone else to fix it when I can buy a replacement for relatively little money.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by mstreck:

Myles:

 

I posted an amp question in the guitar forum and it was recommended that I seek out your advice.

 

Can you take a look at this post and see what you can do?

 

http://www.musicgearnetwork.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=004294

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Mike,

 

Please copy it and paste it over here. It is the only way I can keep track of things, and have your answer benefit others.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by mstreck:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by mstreck:

Myles:

 

I posted an amp question in the guitar forum and it was recommended that I seek out your advice.

 

Can you take a look at this post and see what you can do?

 

http://www.musicgearnetwork.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=004294

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Mike,

 

Please copy and paste what you want me to look at a post over hear. I cannot keep track of things in multiple areas.

Sorry... I guess I should have done that in the first place:

 

My 2-year-old Fender Champion 30 (solid state) amp is giving me fits. Sometimes I get a "warbly" sound out of it (especially when playing lower notes with distortion) and sometimes it just cuts out altogether. I never turn the volume up past "4", so I doubt if it is a blown speaker.

 

Any ideas as to what *I* can do to repair it? I'm not totally incompetent around a circuit board. I can test and replace components and but that's about it. Don't ask me to design something.

 

BTW, I don't use it to gig but it is great for practicing... so I don't want to junk it if I don't have to. I also don't want to lay down money to someone else to fix it when I can buy a replacement for relatively little money.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Mike ....

 

I am sorry, but I really cannot help at all on this SS amp, as there are many things it can be, and it would have to be put on a bench for a start.

 

Sorry.

[UnderTheGroove_dup2]

(I posted this on it's own thread before realizing this was probably the best place to ask. My apologise if that is bad form!)

 

I have a Budda Superdrive 30II combo. The footswitch doesn't have an LED and since the amp has so little noise on the gain channel (this is a good thing!), I sometimes loose track of which channel is selected. Budda will make me a pedal with an LED (and battery to operate it), but will have to charge me for 1/2 hr bench time.

 

My question is how difficult would it be for me to make this myself? I'm pretty handy, but don't have much knowledge with electronics. It's a simple one button job used for channel selection. This should be a very simple thing to make, no? Could someone point me to a schematic for a channel switch with a battery to operate the LED?

 

Thanks for your help

 

PJ

[FishWater]

Originally posted by myles111:

[QB]Since I only get email notification on the subjects I post, I have missed some that get pushed back as the days progress. I find some questions with my name in the subject on occasion, and would like to miss less of these.

 

Looking to retube my 65 Bandmaster AB763 over a 1x15 cabinet (Weber California ceramic speaker) for playing blues/roots with a Strat. I don't hit many notes, but I torture them a lot by bending, wiggling and varying pick (and fingernail) attack. Presently, I have GT-labeled Sovtek 5881 outputs, plus EI and OS RCA preamp tubes and unbranded 12AT7 driver of unknown quality - these were inherited from other amps and have never been tested. The amp sounds very big and strong - without much character other than of the REAL CLEAN variety. I've read your primer, and am inclined to switch to Chinese coke bottle Groove Tubes rated #2 for max touch; 12ax7c9 and JJ 12ax7 preamps for inputs "normal" and "vibrato", respectively; and triode-matched 12at7 as a driver. Does this sound appropriate for a guy looking to get lots of "feel" from his rig? Should I worry about which type of tremolo circuit preamp tube I'm running?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by UnderTheGroove:

(I posted this on it's own thread before realizing this was probably the best place to ask. My apologise if that is bad form!)

 

I have a Budda Superdrive 30II combo. The footswitch doesn't have an LED and since the amp has so little noise on the gain channel (this is a good thing!), I sometimes loose track of which channel is selected. Budda will make me a pedal with an LED (and battery to operate it), but will have to charge me for 1/2 hr bench time.

 

My question is how difficult would it be for me to make this myself? I'm pretty handy, but don't have much knowledge with electronics. It's a simple one button job used for channel selection. This should be a very simple thing to make, no? Could someone point me to a schematic for a channel switch with a battery to operate the LED?

 

Thanks for your help

 

PJ

PJ .........

 

By the time you get things together, find the right resistors for the LED, take things apart, and put them back .... well, 1/2 an hour of bench time, even at $100 an hour, is dirt cheap.

 

Things that seem simple rarely are ...

As you can see, you are already spending time looking to find a print to help in this effort.

 

I'd call the folks at Budda, and throw yourself at their offer, as it will be less expensive, will be done right, and their workmanship is top rate.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by FishWater:

Originally posted by myles111:

[QB]Since I only get email notification on the subjects I post, I have missed some that get pushed back as the days progress. I find some questions with my name in the subject on occasion, and would like to miss less of these.

 

Looking to retube my 65 Bandmaster AB763 over a 1x15 cabinet (Weber California ceramic speaker) for playing blues/roots with a Strat. I don't hit many notes, but I torture them a lot by bending, wiggling and varying pick (and fingernail) attack. Presently, I have GT-labeled Sovtek 5881 outputs, plus EI and OS RCA preamp tubes and unbranded 12AT7 driver of unknown quality - these were inherited from other amps and have never been tested. The amp sounds very big and strong - without much character other than of the REAL CLEAN variety. I've read your primer, and am inclined to switch to Chinese coke bottle Groove Tubes rated #2 for max touch; 12ax7c9 and JJ 12ax7 preamps for inputs "normal" and "vibrato", respectively; and triode-matched 12at7 as a driver. Does this sound appropriate for a guy looking to get lots of "feel" from his rig? Should I worry about which type of tremolo circuit preamp tube I'm running?

FishWater .......

 

Nice amp by the way.....

 

First off, loose the GT6L6B® tubes. Keep them as spares. These are robust tubes, but sonically, just about any other tube is nicer in your amp.

 

On my clients Bandmasters, I use either GT-6L6GE, Tung Sol 5881, 6L6WGB NOS, or GT-6L6S. In the GT's I use a #6 rating at 34 milliamps bias. If you want a more agressive amp, the 6L6S is what a number of my Bandmaster, Bassman, Twin, and Showman folks use.

 

On the AT7 phase inverter, the brand is not important, the BALANCE is, and chances are, this is not a matched phase inverter. I have a lot on this on my personal website, but you can also email me at techsupport@groovetubes.com and ask for my tube primer document, that is about 24 pages at this point, and I will send it back as an attachment.

 

Preamp tubes for V1 and V2 should be nice longer plate version, as these were what were originally used and are a part of the "Fender" sound.

 

For this, you have a few choices. The GT-7025's are great. They are long smooth plates, and made by Ei, but highly selected, as most Ei's can be very microphonic. These by the way, are produced on the German Telefunken tooling from years ago, so if they look like a Telefunken smooth plate, this is why. (this is all explained in my tube primer document by the way).

 

The other choice is NOS, and for this, you need to head over to http://www.kcanostubes.com

 

Currently from the KCA website:

 

NOS GE 12AX7/ECC83------------------------------------------------------$ 34 each

Commercial version with white lettering. 1960s variety and a few ca 1960 long/wide plate version. Great guitar amp and audiophile tube. Very sweet sounding with a smooth top end. Very low in microphonics and noise. Add $5 per tube for matched triodes (perfect for phase inverters).

Here's one of my favorite quotes: "One last question, do you have any of the NOS GE 12AX7A's with the white lettering? I got one of these out of an old Silver face Pro Reverb and tried it in V1 in my HotRod Deluxe and almost had to change my underwear it sounded so good!!! Unfortunately I had to put it back in the Pro reverb...sounds great in there to!!! Thanks Randy W"

 

NOS RCA 12AX7/As--------------------------------------------------------$ 50

Original boxes. Great original equipment tubes for Fenders and other guitar amps. A few ca. 1960 gray/long plates still in stock.

 

NOS JAN Raytheon 12AX7s (Grade I)-----------------------------------$ 25 Each

Long/wide/grey plate version in original military boxes with 1962 date codes. Great guitar tone

similar to GE long/wide plate 12AX7s. Tested and screened for low microphonics.

 

.........................................

 

OR ........... from www.dougstubes.com

 

JAN Philips 12AX7WA The last of the 80's military production $16 w/balanced triodes $24

 

( use the above for V1 and V2)

 

For your phase inverter - JAN Philips 12AT7WC The best value driver tube. Change your driver tube when you change power tubes. 80's military prod. $9 w/balanced triodes $18

 

OR .........

 

GE 6201/12AT7WC Another great driver tube $9

w/balanced triodes $18

 

........... GET THE BALANCED TUBES

 

On the Doug Preston website, he also has listed at the moment ......... JAN Philips 6L6WGB last of the 80's US military production, great all around tube for guitar amps and audio equipment $49 matched pr.

 

These WGB's are what I use in my S45. They were also called 5881 tubes at times, and are just amazing, and at this price, they are 1/2 of what they would be just about anywhere else. This is what I would personally use in your amp. These are very strong tubes and very study. They also last at least two to three times longer than new 6L6 tubes made today for the most part.

 

................................

 

For a softer amp with a lot of touch sensitivity, the 6L6CB's in a lower rating like a 1-2, would be super, especially as a blues tube. They are really popular for those folks. The amp would start to break nicely at about "3" on the amp and "9" on a strat. On a Les Paul, "7" on the guitar.

 

12AX7C9's are the 60's-70's rock, blues, and jazz tube of choice these days for a lot of folks. If you want an earlier break and nicer balance of preamp to power amp distortion, you want these to be in a more specific range. In both V1 and V2, you'd want what I would call a 75/90 or so, or from Doug Preston ( 12AX7C9 Chinese - 9th Generation, very consistently made tube, sweet sound $6 w/balanced triodes $9 ) ask him for a 85-95 on his VTV unit. These do not have to be balanced, but he should charge the balance charge, as he will have to hand pick these if you go his route.

 

The trem tube does not matter if the trem is working and not noisy. This is just a current driver, and not part of the tone/gain stage. Save your money.

 

On the Chinese coke bottles by the way, drop the bias on these down to about 30mA in your amp, as this is where they sound the best, low-mid-high levels.

 

Hope this helped.