Feel free to ask Myles

[Gtoledo3]

Myles, I appreciate the feedback on the Super Reverb.

 

Is that tube really all that's responsible for the diferrence between the old super reverbs and the reissue super reverbs? It seems like the tone pots have a diferrent "throw" to them, and that the reverb is also not the same.

[DanYmaL X]

Originally posted by myles111:

 

....I hope this was of some help.

Thanks, Myles.. this is a good start-

as far as the pot date codes... where do I look for those?

I don't know how you find time for all this stuff...

 

Thanks again

Danymal

[Gabriel E.]

Can I put EL34s in a Sovtek Mig-50 in place of the 5881s? It supposedly puts over 500V on the plates but the tube data sheet I read for the EL34 said it can handle 800V. Is this accurate?

 

How will the sound differ with EL34s vs. 5881s?

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Kevin F:

Thanks Myles,

 

That really helps me a lot. Going to check out that THD 2x12 also.

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin

Kevin,

 

You are more than welcome

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

I ordered the NOS RCA-6V6GTA's from Tube World Inc. I asked for 2 matched pairs they were $80.00 each pair. I don't remember the guys name I was talking to but I also asked for (4) matched 12AT7's and (4) low gain 12AX7's. He seemed to understand why I wanted the low gain 12AX7's and the matched 12AT7's. The total price came to $344.00 plus shipping I hope I did not choose the wrong source if you think these tubes will not be what I want please let me know so I can order the FST set from GT. I did not realize this was available but it looks like what I am looking for.

 

The order has not arrived yet, and the salesman did not give me a milli-amp rating if they are labeled when they arrive I will let you know that info.

 

Thanks again for the info on the location of the tubes on my amps!!!

Blue Note ........

 

Tube World is a great vendor. I used to have them on my own website, but may have deleted them to save a bit of space. They also deal mostly in high end audio and industrial tubes ... guitar tubes are just a small part of their business, so I wanted to try to keep my site more "guitar" related. In any case, I used to test their stuff at random every quarter, and they always did a great job.

 

$80 for a pair of blackplates is a very nice price. They will also last a lot longer than any newly made 6V6, and sound much nicer. I sell Fivre's at times (Italian licensened copies of RCA's for $60 per pair when I have them), so your RCA costs was pretty great.

 

Tube World (please NEVER confuse Tube World with "The Tube Store" out of Canada .... very different company, products, etc., to say the least), knows about properly matching dual triodes, as this is critical in the hi-fi world, so your 12AT7's should be very nice. He will also get you proper 12AX7's that are lower in gain, but have proper output and transconductance. Don't worry, you chose a very good vendor ... maybe by accident, but you got lucky perhaps.

 

I am sure you will be happy with them, but if you have any questions or need any help, you can always call me at GT ( 1-800-459-5687 ) or write me directly there at techsupport@groovetubes.com whether you bought GT stuff or not.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by GT3:

Myles, I appreciate the feedback on the Super Reverb.

 

Is that tube really all that's responsible for the diferrence between the old super reverbs and the reissue super reverbs? It seems like the tone pots have a diferrent "throw" to them, and that the reverb is also not the same.

GT3 ....

 

No, there is more of a difference, but this is one of the main things that can be "fixed" fast and easily on the reissue.

 

There is the issue of a glass PCB in the reissue versus a tag board, and tag board absorbs moisture over the years, where a fiberglass substate does not. You see differences in original amps that spent a life in Phoenix versus Maryland as an example, and can measure resistance from a component to ground at a much higher level on the original tag board amps. The reissue will sound the same over it's life, while the original will change.

 

The resistors .... a big change, in the original are carbon composition, which change in value as they heat up. This is part of the difference in "feel" between the two amps. The reissue uses more stable (and some folks think less "musical" metal film resistors. Metal film resistors are maybe 15 cents .... CC are maybe 65 cents each, if you can find good ones that are not dried out.

 

Speakers .... the reissue uses new Jensens which are tighter than the originals.

 

The bias on the new amps (reissues) is set way off from where it should be set from my point of view.

 

The original used CTS pots which are much more costly than the newer Alpha pots used in most of the reissues, and the taper is a bit different as you noticed. CTS pots are about 5 times the cost today of an Alpha pot.

 

Caps in the tone circuits in the originals are Astrons in many cases, and in the new amps, can be lots of mostly anything. Sprague Orange Drop capacitors can be used to replace the caps in the new amps at minimal cost. CC resistors can also be replaced in the tone circuits.

 

Still, there was enough inconsistancy in the originals ( +/- 20%) that a reissue tweeked a bit, in a pile of originals, would be hard to point out, and even in stock form may sound, play, and feel better than originals that need a bit of tune up work.

 

In the case of Kenny Wayne Shepherd, who uses Fender Twin Reverb Blackfaces for some of his shows, there are four of these amps. Two are on stage at any given time ... one is mic'd and played, the other on standby in case the first one blows up, as he plays them on "10". Two are original 65's .... the other two are reissues, and whatever comes off the truck first is what goes on the stage, they are that close now in tone and performance.

 

Fender had some great amps, and the Super Reverb has strengths of crunch and distortion and clean that the Twin lacks (too clean at moderate levels) and Deluxe (nice for smaller venues but not enough clean headroom for bigger venues). It is one of Fender's masterpieces, whether original or reissue. The only thing I dislike about the amp is it's physical size and weight, but that is part of the drill with 4x10's

 

On the reverb, make sure the reverb driver is a good 12AT7, and NOT a Russian made 12AT7. Either go NOS USA or Chinese.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by danymal_x:

Originally posted by myles111:

 

....I hope this was of some help.

Thanks, Myles.. this is a good start-

as far as the pot date codes... where do I look for those?

I don't know how you find time for all this stuff...

 

Thanks again

Danymal

Danymal ....

 

The date codes are on the pots themselves. Transformers and speakers also usually had date codes. In the Groove Tubes "The Tube Amp Book", there is a chapter or two on dating all the various amps.

 

This book is at:

http://www.groovetubes.com/groovetoys.cfm?Category_ID=30

 

It is now at version 4.1. About 800,000+ copies have been sold. You can also find the book at places like Antique Electric Supply or any GT dealer.

 

It is a good start for this sort of thing.

 

Finding time for this is not that hard. While I am testing stuff or waiting for sweep results, I just jump on and off this forum during the day.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

Can I put EL34s in a Sovtek Mig-50 in place of the 5881s? It supposedly puts over 500V on the plates but the tube data sheet I read for the EL34 said it can handle 800V. Is this accurate?

 

How will the sound differ with EL34s vs. 5881s?

Gabriel,

 

Your Mig-50 can easily use EL-34's with a rebias. Your amp is not what is called "ultralinear" in design, and has low screen voltages with higher plate voltages, so the tubes are not even pushed all that hard.

 

I'd check to make sure the screen resistor on the bottom of the tube socket is bigger than a 1 watt resistor though, a 5 watt 1k is what I like there, rather than a 1 watt 470 ohm.

 

Then just rebias.

 

The EL-34's give a bit more articulate high end in the high distortion settings, but less lows, mid lows, and mids than a 5881/6L6. It is a matter of personal taste.

[KARL FISHER]

myles111, What do you think of the current production Gibson Explorers? This is my dream guitar. I want to get one with the natural mahogany finish, and believe the current models are the "76 Explorer".

Thanks for adding your input. I play a LOT of Skynyrd stuff, and right now I use a Guild X-79 from the mid 1980's. My guild is much lighter than th Explorer will be, so I'm hoping for nicer tone and sustain out of that mahogany. And it has to be Natural finish like Allen Collins had!

[timrocker]

Many thanks, Myles!

[Blue Note]

Myles,

 

Thanks again on your reply about the tubes I ordered from Tube World Inc. I can't remember where I got the web site info I think it was reading a post you had made to another musician some time back. I appreciate your concern and I truly feel you are living up to your motto "making guitar players sound better one amp at a time". I read your new topic on phase inverters and pre-amp tubes, these posts really are helping me understand the only thing I have ever valued enough to become a collector. I love these old tube amps, I have 13 now but wish I could afford a hundred.

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future but for now I'll just keep watching this web-site.

 

Keep the information flowing and Thanks again!!!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by KARL FISHER:

myles111, What do you think of the current production Gibson Explorers? This is my dream guitar. I want to get one with the natural mahogany finish, and believe the current models are the "76 Explorer".

Thanks for adding your input. I play a LOT of Skynyrd stuff, and right now I use a Guild X-79 from the mid 1980's. My guild is much lighter than th Explorer will be, so I'm hoping for nicer tone and sustain out of that mahogany. And it has to be Natural finish like Allen Collins had!

Karl,

 

The current Gibson guitars are some of the best that they have ever done. The guitar you are looking at is a really nicely done example. The current 335's are pretty nice too, even nicer than my own 61, which has been looked at by a lot of folks and said to be one of the nicer ones.

 

Your Guild is also a great guitar. Hang onto it too, it is a lot different than the Gibson. It's sort of funny that a lot of folks that are younger (in their 40's or even younger), don't remember or know that the Guild Starfire's as an example, are what a lot of folks bought when they had enough money and wanted something like a Gibson ES-335 which was LESS expensive then the Guild

 

Your Guild is capable of a lot of sustain. The old theory of weight=sustain has now been misproven many times. It is one factor of many factors. Listen to Alvin Lee in 69 woodstock, and see what a hollowbody guitar can do! The strats that had the most sustain, when a bunch of the best ones in the world (clapton, beck, hendrix, and others) were tested about 10 years ago by Rick Turner. It was found that the best of them all weighed within 6 ounces of each other, and were all on the lighter end of the strat scale, rather than the heavy side.

 

The Explorer is a great guitar, and you can expect something of a cross in playing between a Les Paul Standard and an SG Standard.

 

Part of the Skynyrd magic was their use of three different tonal signature guitars, a Les Paul sort of guitar, a Strat, and then the Explorer or Flying V at times. This is the way to go to get definition in an overall mix with more than one guitar.

 

Happy playing.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by timrocker:

Many thanks, Myles!

You are more than welcome.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Blue Note:

Myles,

 

Thanks again on your reply about the tubes I ordered from Tube World Inc. I can't remember where I got the web site info I think it was reading a post you had made to another musician some time back. I appreciate your concern and I truly feel you are living up to your motto "making guitar players sound better one amp at a time". I read your new topic on phase inverters and pre-amp tubes, these posts really are helping me understand the only thing I have ever valued enough to become a collector. I love these old tube amps, I have 13 now but wish I could afford a hundred.

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future but for now I'll just keep watching this web-site.

 

Keep the information flowing and Thanks again!!!

Blue Note .........

 

Glad I could help. On the amp count, I am now at the point where my wife says I cannot bring another amp into the house unless one goes out of the house.

 

If there is ever any help you need faster than waiting for me to find a post here, you can always feel free to call me at work during the week most of the time toll free at 1-800-459-5687. This is over at Groove Tubes, but we try to help folks out whether they buy/use our stuff or not. My boss Aspen Pittman, also accepts that I have my own buisness in addition to my GT work, and have my own opionions, so gives me the freedom to remain impartial and steer folks in the direction that will be to their best advantage, whether it means a GT product or a competitors products.

[johnny5]

not sure if this question belogs here but here it goes.

 

how much effect does a "cabinet", not speaker have on your over all sound. i have a 1X12 60 watt combo and built a 1X12 cab with about a 3/4 back in the wood shop at my work. when i sized it, i just added an inch to all the dimensions of the combo thinking i wanted to get a little more bottom out of it.

 

now i am thinking maybe i need more or that i built it incorrectly. would it make a big difference to buy one? or buy a 2X12 cab from someone like Avatar? i am trying to achieve more "spread" since my band has been playing alot of shows were they do not mic me.

 

i am considering the following;

1) buying a 2X12 from Avatar with either Greenbacks or V30's.

2) getting a well built 1X12 and using it with the combo speaker

3) scraping the whole rig and just get a head (something like a JCM800) and a 4X12 cab.

 

my issue is that i do not want to spend a bunch of money for minimum results.

 

do you (Myles) or anybody have any advise for me?

 

thanks,

john

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by johnny5:

not sure if this question belogs here but here it goes.

 

how much effect does a "cabinet", not speaker have on your over all sound. i have a 1X12 60 watt combo and built a 1X12 cab with about a 3/4 back in the wood shop at my work. when i sized it, i just added an inch to all the dimensions of the combo thinking i wanted to get a little more bottom out of it.

 

now i am thinking maybe i need more or that i built it incorrectly. would it make a big difference to buy one? or buy a 2X12 cab from someone like Avatar? i am trying to achieve more "spread" since my band has been playing alot of shows were they do not mic me.

 

i am considering the following;

1) buying a 2X12 from Avatar with either Greenbacks or V30's.

2) getting a well built 1X12 and using it with the combo speaker

3) scraping the whole rig and just get a head (something like a JCM800) and a 4X12 cab.

 

my issue is that i do not want to spend a bunch of money for minimum results.

 

do you (Myles) or anybody have any advise for me?

 

thanks,

john

John (johnny5) ....

 

The cabinet is every bit as important as the speaker. There is closed back, open back, ported, etc. Particle board, cheap bly, birch ply, etc. Thick versus thin, stiff braced vs. flimsy. The old tweed cabinets were resonant, Marshall AVT cabs are anything but resonant. Caninet volume has a lot of effect. Floating baffle boards .... tone rings (Fender Showman), and on and on.

 

If you want to see a 2x12 that has the bass and more level and much wider sound dispersion than just about any 4x12, try A/B'ing a Marshall 1960 cab with a THD 2x12 ported back cabinet.

 

I will leave it to your ears to see what differences you find there.

 

A Rivera CS-410 cab is a ported cab, with each speaker in it's own internal chamber, and with the top 2x10's being able to be set up as open or closed back. This is a very efficient and smooth sounding cabinet.

 

A 1x12 with huge low end and without the speaker phase and difference cancellation of a multi speaker cab, and more accurate tone, could be built maybe by somebody like Mark Baier (Victoria) out of lighter woods in the Fender Tweed style, and would be pretty spectacular.

 

Overbuilding in thickness looses the cabinet resonance, but to build light, and not rattle, you need great multilamination plys of good woods, not cheap ply. 3/4" to me is overkill, and makes something of a "dead" or not-live sounding cabinet. That is just my personal point of view here.

 

The GT cabs are light and resonant, and have backs that can be removed for open or closed back sound. They are in use by a lot of folks on the GT F&R list.

 

Well, I don't think I helped here at all, other than give you a lot more to think about. Sorry.

[Ben C.]

Hello Myles,

 

I have both a 1985 Marshall JCM 800 2203 (100-Watt, single channel) and a 1996 Mesa Boogie Trem-o-Verb head. I was wondering what you consider the best tube choices in both the pre and power stages for both of these amps. I am looking for a very old-school heavy sound a la Black Sabbath, as well as Black Label Society, Corrosion of Conformity, King Crimson. I use two 4x12" cabs and play a stock 1979 Les Paul Custom.

 

I currently have Svetlana EL34's (tubestore.com), a Electro Harmonics 12AX7EH in V1, & Mesa Boogie ecc83's in the Trem-o-Verb- I am not very satisfied with the sound here. Very dull sounding, with very little balls.

 

The JCM has Groove Tubes EL34's (#7 rating, I think), a Groove Tube 12AX7 in V1, and Sovtek 12AX7's in V2 & V3.

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You can hear mp3's of what we do here:

http://www.cableband.net

 

Thank you for the help,

Ben

[DanYmaL X]

Myles:

My next question is concerning speaker cabs... I have a Fender 18" bass cab that I run an Acoustic B-3 Collaboration series 320 W amp through... (No its not a tube amp, but we got to start somewhere.) I am considering either:

a) Adding a 2x10 Bass Cab to the stack, or

b) Building a new cab altogether with the 18 and a pair of 10's.

Which, in your opinion would give me better overall results?

And if I were to go with the single cab setup, are there any good resources you can direct me to for things like dimensions vs. wattage vs. speaker placement etc...

And (an aside) I know its not a tube amp but do you know anything about the acoustic amps? I have been trying to find ltierature with specs and wiring diagrams etc for a while with no luck...

 

Thanks

Danymal_X

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Ben C.:

Hello Myles,

 

I have both a 1985 Marshall JCM 800 2203 (100-Watt, single channel) and a 1996 Mesa Boogie Trem-o-Verb head. I was wondering what you consider the best tube choices in both the pre and power stages for both of these amps. I am looking for a very old-school heavy sound a la Black Sabbath, as well as Black Label Society, Corrosion of Conformity, King Crimson. I use two 4x12" cabs and play a stock 1979 Les Paul Custom.

 

I currently have Svetlana EL34's (tubestore.com), a Electro Harmonics 12AX7EH in V1, & Mesa Boogie ecc83's in the Trem-o-Verb- I am not very satisfied with the sound here. Very dull sounding, with very little balls.

 

The JCM has Groove Tubes EL34's (#7 rating, I think), a Groove Tube 12AX7 in V1, and Sovtek 12AX7's in V2 & V3.

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You can hear mp3's of what we do here:

http://www.cableband.net

 

Thank you for the help,

Ben

Ben,

 

Your two amps are very different in the front ends, with much different response.

 

If they were my amps, in the JCM 800, I would use ECC83's in V1-V3, with an MPI in V3 (this could also be a MPI 12AX7 rather than an ECC83 as it is not part of the tone stage.

 

In the Mesa, V1-V2 I'd go with a 12AX7C for the most versitile amp (to be able to play blues a bit) or a 12AX7R3 (Electro Harmonix 12AX7) for a bit brighter sound that is not quite as warm or linear than the 12AX7C. It is basically personal taste.

 

The Tube Store Svets need to be checked. I have had a lot of problems with unmatched tubes from these folks. They also do not test for low vacuum, gas leakage, or grid leakage, and just statiically current match their tubes. You can easily verify this by setting the bias on an amp with "The Tube Store" tubes, and checking it again after 10 or so hours of playing. You will see, most of the time, that the bias has changed more than it will with the same tubes from a lot of other vendors.

 

The 2002 and later date code Svetlana's also are low on vacuum due to rushed production or poor QA. This is sort of common with them every few years for a bit.

 

The most probably reason for no balls in your sound are the TS svets, and the change in bias.

 

On the GT EL-34's .... which ones? There are a bunch of GT EL-34's, and in my clients EL-34 based Marshalls, I use E34Ls's which are a 30 watt tube, rather than the 25 watt rating of any other EL-34, even those sold by GT. 7 is a good rating for your Marshall, but make sure it is biased properly, as the E34Ls has a different bias than even the JJ E34L, which some folks think is the same tube, but it is not ... look at the plates, you can see the difference on the Ls version with the heat sinks on the plate assembly.

 

On the JCM, the ECC83's are the way to go, get rid of the Sovteks and the GT 12AX7 (which one by the way, there are almost a dozen GT 12AX7's) ?

 

Hope that helped. Keep in mind this is my own personal preference, and seems to be the same as most of my clients.

 

The E34Ls is used by Billy Gibbons, Joe Perry, Joe Walsh, and others.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by danymal_x:

Myles:

My next question is concerning speaker cabs... I have a Fender 18" bass cab that I run an Acoustic B-3 Collaboration series 320 W amp through... (No its not a tube amp, but we got to start somewhere.) I am considering either:

a) Adding a 2x10 Bass Cab to the stack, or

b) Building a new cab altogether with the 18 and a pair of 10's.

Which, in your opinion would give me better overall results?

And if I were to go with the single cab setup, are there any good resources you can direct me to for things like dimensions vs. wattage vs. speaker placement etc...

And (an aside) I know its not a tube amp but do you know anything about the acoustic amps? I have been trying to find ltierature with specs and wiring diagrams etc for a while with no luck...

 

Thanks

Danymal_X

danymal ............

 

This all boils down to personal taste. I personally love Acoustic 260, 360, and 370 amps. They WERE the backline at 69 Woodstock, with some SVT's too.

 

As far as not being tube amps, bass amps need at times, lots of clean headroom, and the hybrid preamps, some with tubes, get into this too, but a SS bass amp is terrific, and less costly and less heavy than an original SVT as an example. SS bass amps are super.

 

I prefer 1 15" or 18" lower cab with 2 2x10's and a bi-amped setup. That is just my personal taste. Frankly, with my limited playing, I do not need the 2x10's or horns, as I do not do slapping or content with high end harmonics, and four strings are enough for me to have to deal with

 

But, for "real" players unlike me, a nice bi-amped setup is a lot more versitile.

 

As far as dimensions and wattage, most cabs are suited to given amps, just have a cab that can handle the amp's rating. As far as dimension, there are so many other factors, where a ported cab may have a lower resonant frequency than one that is not ported, etc. The bottom like here is, listen more than look, and pick what sounds best for your taste and application.

 

Personally, I support a lot of current groups using Carvin solid state amps and cabs, those red ones they sell. The hold up like gangbusters on tour, sound great, and are very versitile and not all that large in some of their smaller configs that fill some pretty decent sized venues. They are pretty darn cost effective too, and they sell the cabs seperate I believe.

[DanYmaL X]

Thanks again Myles...

I've actually looked at a few Carvin cabs... just on eBay though. Maybe I need to check out their website... Lord knows there are enough folks posting in these forums that are giving Carvin the thumbs-up! Whether it be guitars, basses, amps, you name it, it seems like everyone points to Carvin.

Maybe I'll swing by and see if they have a 2x10 I like.

 

Danymal

[lg64strat]

Hi Myles,

I have a 1970 SF Fender Princeton Reverb. What speaker would you recommend for it. It has an

Eminence in it now. I have EH 6V6's and 12ax7's in it as well. It sounds really good now, but I was wondering if it could be better.

 

Also, What speakers would you recommend for a MusicMan 212-HD? Peavey Scorpions are in it now. I put those in about 10 years ago because they were cheap $, BUT it sounds like crap. This amp has Ruby's in it and has a SS preamp... I've never really been able to get a good lead sound from it, and the clean is just "ok" at best...

Thanks for your help!!!

Best regards...

[sgguitarzz]

As per your request Myles I am posting this here. I am interested in one of these 2 amps. Both seem to get great reviews. The Sunn is a few dollars more and seems to have more features such as low power switch down to 12.5 watts and seems to be built a little more solid. It also weighs a ton like my Boogie and I am getting old for this. The Hellhound is light, one channel (which is okay) and has nice tone. I may be inclined to go for the head in the Reverend but I am open.

I would be interested in your comments on these 2 amps Myles (plus anyones else's).

I would probably be going the Ebay or used route to save a few bucks. Thanks.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by danymal_x:

Thanks again Myles...

I've actually looked at a few Carvin cabs... just on eBay though. Maybe I need to check out their website... Lord knows there are enough folks posting in these forums that are giving Carvin the thumbs-up! Whether it be guitars, basses, amps, you name it, it seems like everyone points to Carvin.

Maybe I'll swing by and see if they have a 2x10 I like.

 

danymal_x ....

 

Go ahead and try one, you may like it a lot.

 

Danymal

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by sgguitarzz:

As per your request Myles I am posting this here. I am interested in one of these 2 amps. Both seem to get great reviews. The Sunn is a few dollars more and seems to have more features such as low power switch down to 12.5 watts and seems to be built a little more solid. It also weighs a ton like my Boogie and I am getting old for this. The Hellhound is light, one channel (which is okay) and has nice tone. I may be inclined to go for the head in the Reverend but I am open.

I would be interested in your comments on these 2 amps Myles (plus anyones else's).

I would probably be going the Ebay or used route to save a few bucks. Thanks.

sgguitarzz ...

 

These are both fine amps, but very different in features, configuration, feel, and tone. It will all boil down to personal taste, and in either case, if the amp has the sound you want, either will be a good amp for many years.

 

In the case of the Hellhound, it's light weight is partially due to ligher cabinet construction (but well built), so the cabinet is also a part of the tone, and nicely resonant and very well designed. Think of it's cabinet as more tweed in design as opposed to a Marshall cabinet.

 

The Sunn would be, for my tastes, a better out and out rock amp. The Hellhound better for 60's sort of rock and nicer from my view, for blues also. The Hellhound travels pretty nicely, and would be moved a lot more and used away from home more, because it can be moved more easily, which can be a big factor. The Hellhound will easily cover a 75-150 venue un-mic'd, so as a performance amp, it's darn nice too. Both are quiet amps, with nicely done front ends, so recording with either would be pretty nice. The Hellhound is quieter in background noise in most cases, unless you have a not so great V1 tube, which is very easily changed.

 

Bottom line I guess, which one better suits your ears and music preferences.

[garyrogue]

Hi Myles-KT-66 questions

I just a Rt-66 and one of the bottle is loose on power tubes (GT #6) were it goes into the base . It works fine though. I'll be ordering a back up set. In mean time should/is it OK to force some 3 min/or longer cure epoxy at interface were bottle goes into base or just use as is till it fails? I have never broken a tube apart and this may have nothing to do with possible vacuum leaks as bottle\tube may just sit in base and pins pass through bottom of base.

 

Thanks Gary

[iceberg]

Myles, I hear all this talk about V1 giving 80% of an amps tone and how important the V3 phase splitter needs to be matched, but I never hear or read about the V2 slot of an amp.

 

What is the V2 slot responcible for and how does the tube in that position effect the tone of an amp??

 

Thanks,

Kevin

[Dave da Dude]

I am now at the point where my wife says I cannot bring another amp into the house unless one goes out of the house.

Myles,

 

If you want to get another amp, no problem. I'll take one off of your hands, no questions asked. I don't even care which one it is, it will probably be better than what I've got.

 

Seriously though (just in case you didn't realize the above wasn't ), you could list one here.

 

Dave

[Kevin F]

Myles,

 

Have you heard of anyone useing a POD in the effects loop of a Marshall DSL JUST for the effects? (delays, reverbs, etc)

 

Is it worth it to try it or will it totally screw up the tone?

 

Kevin

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by garyrogue:

Hi Myles-KT-66 questions

I just a Rt-66 and one of the bottle is loose on power tubes (GT #6) were it goes into the base . It works fine though. I'll be ordering a back up set. In mean time should/is it OK to force some 3 min/or longer cure epoxy at interface were bottle goes into base or just use as is till it fails? I have never broken a tube apart and this may have nothing to do with possible vacuum leaks as bottle\tube may just sit in base and pins pass through bottom of base.

 

Thanks Gary

Gary,

 

This is pretty common. The base has nothing to do with the integrity of the vacuum. I also see this on a lot of 6V6's too. What I do is just run a little line of superglue in any area at the bottle and base junction, and voila ... problem is gone. This also gets rid of some physical microphonic issues in many power tubes.