alphajerk Posted December 12, 2000 Share Posted December 12, 2000 anyone know a good way of getting the piece that the stud for the stop tailpiece screws into? my ground wire broke off and i need to re solder a new one on at the source as i have no way of attaching it from the cavity. preferably without harming the finish. alphajerk FATcompilation "if god is truly just, i tremble for the fate of my country" -thomas jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedster Posted December 12, 2000 Share Posted December 12, 2000 This sounds like a question for none other than Dan Erlewine. "Cisco Kid, was a friend of mine" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa Posted December 12, 2000 Share Posted December 12, 2000 What kind of guitar is this? Is access to the bridge easier than the stop tailpiece? If so, you can also ground the strings by soldering the wire to the bridge, rather than to the stop tailpiece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alphajerk Posted December 12, 2000 Author Share Posted December 12, 2000 its a custom geetar. think les paul here. same tune o matic bridge and stop tailpiece. the ONLY access is through a hole to the stop tailpiece stud off the high E string side. alphajerk FATcompilation "if god is truly just, i tremble for the fate of my country" -thomas jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaBoy Posted December 13, 2000 Share Posted December 13, 2000 Alpha, I've seen this on some LPs. There's a little transfer hole drilled between the controls cavity to the bottom of the stud anchor hole. It appears that the stud anchor is press fitted into its hole and the ground wire makes contact with the stud, grounding the strings. The problem occurs after the controls are taken out or moved around a lot, in that the ground wire finally breaks at the spot where it exits the small transfer hole. I've fixed this in the past by heavily tinning a new piece of ground wire. Then stick the tinned end into the transfer hole and try to push it up against the broken off wire. Holding all this in place, touch your iron to the new wire as close to the hole as possible. Hopefully, the solder will flow to the old wire and join the two. Sticking a toothpick with flux on it into the transfer hole will flux the old wire causing it to attrack the flowing solder. You've likely thought of this, but, just in case you haven't. Good luck with it. GigaBoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alphajerk Posted December 13, 2000 Author Share Posted December 13, 2000 great idea but the wire came out at the peg [dammit!] although i wonder if i can heat the wire enough at the hole and heat the stud piece and stick solder down the hole. getting the peg out would be the best solution but i put it in so i know how tight it is in there. alphajerk FATcompilation "if god is truly just, i tremble for the fate of my country" -thomas jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaBoy Posted December 13, 2000 Share Posted December 13, 2000 Alpha, Perhaps you could devise a small "puller" similar to a flywheel puller. One could be made from two large washers. The hole in the middle of the washers must be large enough to let the threaded part of the stud to go through but small enough to support the stud's shoulder. Tap three screw holes evenly spaced around the perimeter of one of the washers. Then insert the stud capturing the washers. Now start cranking on the screws to pull the stud. Maybe put some felt or rubber on the bottom washer to avoid marring. Good luck GigaBoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alphajerk Posted December 13, 2000 Author Share Posted December 13, 2000 that too is a great idea. i might give that some thought. maybe give it a go. maybe i could stack the larger holed washers around the "nut" piece and use the washer on the shoulder of the "screw" piece and simply tighten the screw pulling the piece out through the stacked washers? if that made any sense. alphajerk FATcompilation "if god is truly just, i tremble for the fate of my country" -thomas jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaBoy Posted December 13, 2000 Share Posted December 13, 2000 Makes total sense, but the thread on the stud is a considerably coarser thread so will require considerably more force to do the pulling. It may damage the slot in your stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GigaBoy Posted December 14, 2000 Share Posted December 14, 2000 AlphaJerk, I thought of another possible solution to your broken ground wire. I've not done this but it might just do the trick. You might: Find a screw that is sized so that it threads fairly easily into the ground wire transfer hole. It would have to be long enough to go through the hole far enough to make contact with the tailpiece anchor. Thread it into the hole until it contacts the anchor. Then attach a new wire to the protruding screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alphajerk Posted December 14, 2000 Author Share Posted December 14, 2000 tried that already, still results in ground hum. that WAS the best i could come up with before thinking of a way to yank this piece out. you know, why in the hell do the stings/bridge/tailpiece have to be grounded to in the first place? they make no contact with the pickups anyways. alphajerk FATcompilation "if god is truly just, i tremble for the fate of my country" -thomas jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picker Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Who brought this thread back from 2000? Always remember that you are unique. Just like everyone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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