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Help! -Replacing a bass bridge


Xplorer

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Hey there, I have a POS bass with a wooden bridge. If you remove the strings, the brige would fall off the body. Anyway, it's a nightmare for action and intonation, so I think I'll slap a cheap metal bridge on there.

 

Can anyone comment on string spacing, scale lenght, or any other considerations for replacing this bridge? (the guitar is string through, but I don't care if it stays that way.

 

Here is the creature...

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g30/scmcfaul/Bass01.jpg

 

Thanks!

What a horrible night to have a curse.
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If you can provide a better picture of the body, that would help.

 

It;s hard to see, but it looks like you have a good opportunity to replace the wood bridge with a Tune-O-Matic:

 

http://www.guitarshop.net/esp/EC254_blk.jpg

 

Since your strings are anchored into the body, you could get by without the tailpiece. The bridge portion does require some drilling to mount it rock steady.

 

As far as spacing, that can be varied depending on what type of bridge you get, 3/4" is mostly standard for 4 stringers, but it's up to you.

 

Scale length is determined by the neck. Measure your neck from the front of the nut to the crown of the 12th fret. Double that measurement, I bet it's 34" total.

- Matt W.
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I can't really see the bridge in your picture.

 

The biggest worry you would have is if the bridge will allow the strings to be the same height from the body as your wooden bridge.

 

To install a new bridge you are going to have to drill five holes in the bass and the other potential problem would be if the holes had to be in the same place as the holes for the string-through setup that the bass already has.

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Thanks guys, and sorry about the pic... I will get a better one when I get out from work.

 

The prob with the wooden bridge is that it's too high even at it's lowest adjustment. The tune-o-matic bridge sounds like a good idea- using the existing string through holes. My onlt worry is the angle the strings come off the bridge at. I think it might be too sharp, I guess I could add the stop-bar as well...

 

Drilling it out won't be a prob, I've added recessed floyds to stop-bar style guitars before. Routing/drilling is always a fun task for me to tackle! I'm a guitar player, but I got this thing as a gift. It's not a Jackson, it's just a cheapo pice of crap. But I'd still like to play it.

What a horrible night to have a curse.
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Man...that sure is a wooden bridge ain't it?

 

If you have an issue with the holes for the new bridge being too close to the original holes, you can fill in the original holes with a compound of cyano-acrylic polymer and powdered cellulose (ie. superglue and sawdust mixture :D )...work it into the holes with a toothpick and let it dry. Then you can drill close to the original filled-in hole.

 

Looks like the tune-o-matic type bridge would indeed be the easiest choice...check Ebay and maybe BassGear.com for some used ones.

 

That's a pretty cool looking bass. It's obviously loud since it's none-more-black...how's the tone?

 

Dave

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Thanks for the input guys!

 

About the bridge, there are no holes in the body! No studs to align the bridge! The little thumb wheels only raise and lower the upper part of the bridge. So if the strings were removed, the bridge would fall right off. It's a blank canvas under there, no holes or studs at all. I want a fixed bridge so I don't constantly have to f#$% with the intonation an align the bridge for proper scale length every time I string it up.

 

I can loosen the strings and slide the bridge right out sideways and remove it... catch my drift? I think this will give me a perfect opportunity to outfit it with a new bridge.

 

Dave, it sure is none more black! It complements my guitar collection nicely! The neck pickup has some nads, but the bridge pickup is quite wimpy. Maybe I should be looking to replace the bridge pickup and electronics as well.

 

Is it possible to get a floyd style bridge on this thing? I'm pretty sure I saw Les Claypool with a trem on one of his basses. That would kick some ass.

What a horrible night to have a curse.
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Originally posted by Xplorer:

Is it possible to get a floyd style bridge on this thing? I'm pretty sure I saw Les Claypool with a trem on one of his basses. That would kick some ass.

There is a bass trem available from KAHLER . Search the forum, you'll find some discussion about it.
- Matt W.
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Because of the sharp angle of the bass body behind the bridge most of the availabe "fully adjustible" bridges will not fit. I think the Tune-O-Matic is your best choice. There is really no need to have the bridge attached to the body you can adjust the height of the bridge with adjusting wheels and slide it into the needed position and fine tune the intonation with the saddle height adjusters. If the Tune-O-matic is too high at it's lowest setting, you could counter-sink it into the body. I have done this with one of my basses and there is no problem.

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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The issue of string spacing would be determined after you set the two outer strings so that they are the proper distance away from the edges of the rear of the neck. Then equally space the two inner strings.

Rocky

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb, voting on what to eat for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb, contesting the vote."

Benjamin Franklin

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Hey man...if you remove the collars for the string-through holes, it *looks like* there might be enough room to mount one of the smaller one-piece bass bridges, something like the Hipshot Type-A or one of the cheaper Mighty-Mite bridges (around 2" length). Compare the space you've got between the bridge pickup and edge of the bass closest to the bridge pickup...visually it looks like one would probably fit OK, but compare their dimensions to the space ya got available. It can be really close to the bridge pickup...you just have to have enough room that the strings can be intonated correctly. As Matt has pointed out a number of times, the distance from the nutt to the 12th fret should be the same as the distance from the 12th fret to the G-string bridge saddle. Then allow enough room for the other string saddles to be moved back some.

 

For playability and intonation, I'd tend to think that a more standard bridge would be the best choice (however, I don't have any experience with the tune-o-matic bridges, so take what I say with a grain of salt). It does have to physically fit the space and leave the room necessary for bridge saddle intonation adjustment. If it won't, then the tune-o-matic type bridge is probably the only choice.

 

HTH,

Dave

Old bass players never die, they just buy lighter rigs.

- Tom Capasso, 11/9/2006

 

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Thanks Rocky, I'm going to spec out a tune-o-matic bridge minus the stop-bar piece. That seems to be my best option.

 

The Kahler would be cool, but it'd be a $100 saddle on a $10 horse!

What a horrible night to have a curse.
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Thanks again guys, you've been tons of help!

 

Now, all I need to do is learn how to play this thing!

 

I'll probubly add a MMFR-4 bridge pickup if I can ever find a credible review on it! The 'bucker that's in there now puffs.

What a horrible night to have a curse.
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