Zeronyne's bass assembly diary (Update 4/12/2006)

[zeronyne]

I thought this might make a neat thread that I could keep updated.

 

I decided today that I would try to build my own P-Bass. Why would I build my own?

 

1) I've never tried it before (never soldered, rarely drilled, barely can measure anything), which is a huge reason in itself.

2) There are a lot of cool P-Basses out there, but none with the aesthetic that I am looking for.

3) To GET the desired aesthetic, I would have to ask Mr. Lull or Mr. Sadowsky or Mr. ..er..Fender Custom Shop to build one for me. I already have a Nordstrand on the way...I can't justify spending the lettuce.

4) My mistakes could become your guide to doing it right! (I'm such a philanthropist )

 

My goals for this do not go beyond owning a nice P-Bass and not spending more than I would for a new one of the identical specs including labor.

 

I ask - no, I BEG - all of you with relevant experience to post here any tips and warnings. I am going to ask REALLY basic questions, so I ask you to go easy on my fragile ego. Just kidding...I can take it.

 

On the way, I thought I'd keep a running total on costs, time and progress. I'm also going to mirror this on my blog, the link to which I'll provide when I post the first step.

 

Thanks for indulging me.

[zeronyne]

Step One

 

So here are the specs that I decided on:

 

4 String

P Style pickup

Passive

34" scale

 

That's it. Oh, and as usual, it needs to be as black as possible, since I learned from Eric that black = loud, although I may get a maple neck with black binding and blocks a la the BenLoy Sig Bass.

 

So I snagged this on Ebay today:

 

http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/63/92/cf_12.JPG

 

Mighty Mite. Ash with Flame Maple, transparent black.

 

With shipping, $116.00

 

It's perfect for what I'm trying to do.

 

So here are the first questions:

 

1) How does one determine the pots one needs? I'm going single tone, so how do I pick the resistance I need? Anyone care to give me a primer on that?

 

2) Is bridge placement simply a function of measuring from the nut...doubling the distance from the nut to the 12th fret? Or is there a much more complex way to do it?

 

________________________

total cost so far: $116.00

total time spent: 10 minutes

total progress: 1%

[zeronyne]

Will adding a preamp take away from the "P" essence of it all?

[_Sweet Willie_]

Is this or is this not why we all love 0-9 so much?!

 

Best of luck, mon ami. You scored a nice lookin' body there.

 

I recommend visiting the Stewart-MacDonald website for both of your questions. I believe they have some schematics and commentary about what capacitors/pots to use for passive tone. Also, look for Fender schematics on the web as well. This may help you determine what you need.

 

Peace.

--Dub $$

 

PS: Skip the preamp. Go for P purity.

[Whacked]

cool. sounds like a fun project.

If you havent already, theres a few books on building that you should probably look at.

Are you going to do everything? like starting with a body blank, and make your own neck including fretwork?

 

Stewart-Macdonald is a good place to start for specific tools or even woods.

making a bass is something that intrests me, I just dont have anyplace I can do it at

 

I've done some soldering. The trick is to keep things hot, but not overheat. best is to practice, then practice more before applying it to your project.

 

Looking forward on how this turns out

[getz out]

brilliant. I can't wait to post on this when I get home (currently on my handheld).

[rumpelstiltskin.]

google "mr. gearhead" and it will take you to a fender support site that has parts lists and wiring diagrams for fender basses.

 

on there you'll realize that fender uses 250k audio taper pots. the real trick is deciding if you want to deviate from fender's choice of capacitor on the tone pot. increasing the capacitance lowers the frequency of the filter, which has two effects: 1. the fully cut sound is deeper and has less treble 2. the fully open sound also has less treble, and is considered warmer. the stock fender value is .05microfarads (sometimes written mfd).

 

and since you're building a P, i suggest you call joe naylor at reverend. i really don't need to say any more, do i? well, ok. i really like the 8.7k, but if you're looking for a fatter sound, you might try the 10k.

 

with a reverend pickup, you won't need a preamp to boost the signal (though it would reduce the output impedance). however, i don't think a preamp necessarily takes away the essential sound, but i don't have enough experience with different preamps -- especially in P basses -- to suggest one.

 

are you going to use black hardware or satin chrome? i'm assuming rosewood fingerboard, but sometimes the maple conrast is nice.

 

robb.

[getz out]

I'd go maple neck, no inlays or block or binding, and a black peghead.

 

Black finished hardware rocks.

 

Black strings, obviously.

 

No preamp; my three main basses usually go passive (the Warwick and the Lull are usually bypassed and the Rob Allen only has a buffer).

 

White pickguard? The flame is throwing me off...

[saxofunk]

Originally posted by zeronyne:

2) Is bridge placement simply a function of measuring from the nut...doubling the distance from the nut to the 12th fret? Or is there a much more complex way to do it?

 

 

From HERE

 

BRIDGE: When I replaced the bridge on my Toby with a Hipshot B (think Carvin), I started by making a template out of 1/4" Plexiglass. There were four screw holes and four holes for strings through the body. During that process I discovered a wonky drill bit - I was glad I didn't go straight for the bass without the template. You're on the right track with masking tape and a few marks for centering and intonation.

 

I also invested in a $59 drill press. With the neck removed from the body, I had good control of the workpiece and three of four string-through holes are in a straight line. You probably wouldn't notice that one is a bit out of line, but I know it's there. If you are only drilling for screws, you may find another way to guide your bit so the screw heads don't sit at funny angles.

 

add (because 0-9 deserves special advice):

 

If you drill through the body use small diameter pilots so the forstner bits you use to recess the ferrules are properly lined up. If you intend to set the ferrules flush to the surface be sure to drill the larger diameter first (only the depth of the flange, about 1/8") so you still have a pilot to set the smaller diameter into (you'll bee going the depth of the ferrule with the small diameter). After the ferrule holes are in place, go back with a larger bit for the string channel.

 

To measure for the bridge, set the G saddle to a point where it has good travel in both directions, approx 1/4" from the end of the screw. Measure 34" (assuming that's your desired scale length) from the nut. That mark should be the center of your G saddle.

 

I think that I borrowed that bridge placement info from some online source... wish I knew where.

 

Good luck. I'll be following this thread.

[JPJ]

Hey 0-9,

Are you planning on doing any kind of fret dressing, or are you just gonna' slap some parts together? I've been close to doing this before, but when I look at the master fretwork, nutwork, and fit & finish from guys like Mike Lull and Carey Nordstrand, I just havne't been able to push myself over the edge! Nevertheless, this should probably be one of the more interesting and educational threads I've seen on a forum in a LONG time. I commend you for your efforts and am sure that you will learn a TREMENDOUS amout about how it's done. Start makin' sawdust, man!

[saxofunk]

Originally posted by zeronyne:

2) Is bridge placement simply a function of measuring from the nut...doubling the distance from the nut to the 12th fret?

 

Yes

 

Or is there a much more complex way to do it?

I suppose... want me to describe it?

[ArwinH]

I might be stealing adrians thunder on this one (sorry man ) but he had two of the COOLEST lookign tran black basses...one a warmoth, the other a lull. I hope these pics are inspiting.

http://accessbass.com/warmothblkbdy1.jpg

 

http://accessbass.com/Blacklullbdy1.jpg

[g.]

The Hipshot B / Carvin bridge also has some side-to-side sliding adjustment for the mounting holes.

[tarsia]

0-9, My $.02 here, I really like that transparent black finish, I'd go with a maple with black blocks neck & slap on a black mother of pearl pickgard, what Pickup are you thinking of ? I personally like the Black & chrome scheme

myself, classic & Def. Rocks ! there's a ton of options out there for this type of project, Good Luck & keep the updates coming !

 

[saxofunk]

Originally posted by greenboy:

The Hipshot B / Carvin bridge also has some side-to-side sliding adjustment for the mounting holes.

Yes, on the Carvin incarnation - which clearly has a pair of oblong holes.

 

The one I installed has four countersunk holes, no side-to-side adjustment at all. Just like this:

http://www.hipshotproducts.com/mbafphoto/B5String.JPG

 

Given the prices, I'll order the Carvin for future projects.

[g.]

Ah, I figured the images in the Hipshot site were just not up to date with what they were doing for Carvin. Which as you note has the best prices too.

[g.]

The place to get Sperzel Tuners

 

Also the place to get the Sperzel D-Thing Drop Tuner, pic from one of Sheldon's basses to show how they use a banjo-type arrangement instead of the Hipshot-type lever:

 

http://www.dingwallguitars.com/forum/files/pa_burlburst_back_of_headstock_1_975.jpg

 

I figure the locking style not only makes stringing up easier - it also improves the accuracy of a drop-tuner since multiple loops around the tuning post are not involved.

[g.]

Bill Lawrence P-46

 

http://www.billlawrence.com/Images/Pickups/p46.JPG

 

Lets the hands change the tone to just about anything within reason. Forget the active electronics. But you might want to route for a bridge pickup.

[g.]

USA Custom Guitars necks - fretting/ peghead, wood and radius choices and available in J and P sizes/shapes. I kinda dig the less massive Tele-P shape.

[zeronyne]

Wow! This is just great. Thank you all for the great questions and advice right from the onset!

 

I will definitely be going passive, so thanks to Sweet Willie, Robb and the rest for that advice. My only reason for going active was to avoid hum, but I guess good shielding and grounding will minimize that to some degree.

 

Whacked, I will definitely be going through my Stewmac catalog. Everytime I look at it, it makes me want to be a luthier.

 

Robb, thanks for the quick info on pots...I will pore over the Fender support site. Hopefully, I'll have more intelligent questions to ask after that.

 

Getz & Tarsia, I think I may be in agreement with you. I was initially thinking maple with an ebony fretboard, but it seems so un-Precisionlike. Maple with no markers and a black headstock maybe the ticket. I'm going to have to Photoshop some pickguards...Black MOP may be way too busy...just black might be weird, too.

 

Matt Thanks for the info on bridge placement. I doubt that I will be doing a string-through, but the caveats still stand...thanks again.

 

Arwin, it was that very Warmoth bass that inspired me to start on this one. I had nearly purchased it from the owner (who may or may not want to remain anonymous). It's mojo got me itching for something more traditional to go with my upcoming Nordstrand. When that P Body came up on Ebay, I took it as a sign.

 

Jay, I was actually thinking about sending the finished product to Mike Lull or Carey for a dressing, unless you could suggest a local tech to do the job. I guess it depends on how it plays, and THAT will depend on where I get the neck, I guess. This may get hairy if my build slot comes up at the same time.

 

GB, I didn't even know that Sperzel made bass tuners! (I have 'em on my Fly Deluxe) And they're cheap! Now I have to find the rest of the hardware in satin black! Do you prefer Sperzels over Hipshot Ultralights for bass?

 

Pickups...hmm...I think I'm going to have to decide how traditional I want this bass to sound before deciding.

 

Thanks to all!

[g.]

If they're good enough for Sheldon ; } ... Actually I've seen Sperzels on a Carvin too, and liked 'em. I've installed them for a number of guitarists in bands as well - after I couldn't stand their whammy bar untunedness any longer. And the drop-tuning is a must on a four methinks.

 

I'd worry less about trad and go the way you want to go. I didn't dismiss active electronics because it wasn't trad - I just think passive with the right pickups and the player's hands are a great way to go. Myself I like pickups that are a little more along the lines of what Lane Poor was doing, because they allow your techniques (and your wood choices) to do more of the coloring.

 

Generally the 250 K pots are what works for pickups of that output. Though if you could snag some 330 K... Using a .47 capacitor, it rolls off deep. If the bass doesn't have some highs shunted to ground (that was real common with older Fenders ) I think a lower value is nicer, maybe .33 - or even .22 if you are using some bright strings. I've done a couple where you could choose your capacitor using a switch but it's easier just to try a couple values for a few days each and then choose the one that matches your gear and tonal ideal.

 

Actually the Q-Filter/BlueQube is a real nice way to get more tones in a passive, focusing on the midrange.

 

http://www.billlawrence.com/Images/Pickups/Q-Filter.JPG

[ArwinH]

Originally posted by zeronyne:

Pickups...hmm...I think I'm going to have to decide how traditional I want this bass to sound before deciding.

Well, I was gonna throw some suggestions in, but I wasn't sure what sound you were shooting for.

But , I really like the sound of lindy fralins, and they have been known to nail a classic pre cbs fender tone. If I ever did a project with p/j pickups I'd more likely than not use 5% overwound fralins.

I've heard GREAT thing about nordstrand pickups as well. They have been acclaimed as full and meaty, and of course they come from a very reputable luthier that has a fine knowldege of gerat tone!

I would definitely be leaning towards those two options in your situation, based on my desired tones, but your ideal tone may vary. You may love the round midrange of batolini pickups, although I'm not sure they would fair too well in terms of output without a preamp. The newer bart cb's are supposed to be a good improvement on the bart tone as well.

Good luck with the project!

P.S. That very bass has found itself n my dreams as well

[g.]

Meaty: this year's word for pickup marketing? ; }

[JPJ]

Meaty: this year's word for pickup marketing? ; }

Naw...."meaty" was soooo last year. This year it is all about "smoove".

[g.]

What year was "buttery" again?

[ArwinH]

"It will give a very big and full tone with the slightly hollow grind that the original's are known for"

...that suit you any better

 

P.S. A buttery, meaty, smoove pickup.....I'd put it in ym bass, but if ingested might make me throw up

[Whacked]

Buttery, wasnt that '03?

 

Lots and lots of decisions Z9. Best of luck Oh and since the body has flame maple, personally i'd ditch the pickguard idea. well unless its needed to cover up any 'blemishes' lol. just seems a shame to cover up wood like that.

[ArwinH]

those routes seem to neccesitate a guard...

[Whacked]

yea, took another look ath the original photo and saw taht route. also looks like a control plate is needed also.

 

Unless you get a piece of stainless, or even polished aluminum and fabricate your own control plate cover.

[zeronyne]

Originally posted by Whacked:

yea, took another look ath the original photo and saw taht route. also looks like a control plate is needed also.

Actually a normal P-Bass pickguard should do the trick.