Neck heaviness

[ChrisOfDoom]

Ok, I recently gave an old bass to a friend, and basically for the hell of it we are going to refinish it and hotrod it a little bit. We figure if we screw it up it doesn't matter because the thing is one step away from total trash.

 

One of the biggest problems with it was the balance on it, it is very neck heavy. While we have everything apart, and are replacing just about every non-wood part on it, is there anything that can be done to alleviate this problem?

 

FYI it is an old Hondo II bass, one P pup, and a Gibson SG shaped body.

[Rick Hoffman]

Best mod for that bass is lighter fluid and a book of matches.

[Gruuve]

Does it play well? If so, mount some midi pickups and now you got a midi-bass!

 

You could probably replace the neck with one from one of the places that sell replacement necks. That would probably cost more than the value of the bass though.

 

Maybe you could sand it down from the back side? You'd probably have to do it by hand because of the curvature...just a thought. Weigh the neck first, then sand for a long time, and weigh it again to guage how much you've actually removed. I've never done this, so just a thought...

 

Dave

[jeremy c]

Move the strap buttons.

[wraub]

I'd look at UltraLite tuners before I'd reshape the neck.

But on that bass, even the relatively high-dollar tuners are likely a money toss, unless the wood is of fairly good quality and condition.

I would venture it's got a ply body, or possibly something nicer, like basswood. Either way, part of the neck dive is probably due to light body weight, IMO. I'd start there.

 

Peace,

 

wraub

[mcbn]

Originally posted by wraub:

Either way, part of the neck dive is probably due to light body weight, IMO. I'd start there.

I'm in total agreement. Add a pound or 2 somewhere on the body and it might work to alleviate the neck dive. I'd avoid messing with the neck or buying tuners for a cheapo Frankenstein project. A 2.5# weight from the gym might look pretty cool on the front of the thing......

[ChrisOfDoom]

Thanks for all the tips, this thing is really just an excuse to play around with some finish ideas, I am just trying to make it more playable while were at it. One thing I have noticed abou this bass, is that unlike any newer cheap instruments, it actually has some decent looking wood grain to it, so thats what inspired this project. I'll post some pictures once we get started.

[wraub]

IIRC, like pretty much all instruments, and especially from that era, Hondo II stuff was cheap stuff by comparison to the competition at that time, but some of their models are bound to be better made, just because of the factory system in place.

 

There's always greater and lesser examples made on the same line, often in the same afternoon.

The label is often meaningless anyway, as many instruments were (and are) made in one factory, somewhere in Asia.

These days, I think it's still Samick doing most companies' Asian production.

 

Your particular Hondo might be worthy of a full upgrade, or it might not.

Be sure to have fun doing it, and you'll be ahead either way.

 

Peace,

 

wraub

 

Peace,

 

wraub

[butcherNburn]

The easiest thing to do is move the strap buttons.

 

If you are looking for a more radical approach...

add some weight to the tail.. here's the "radical" part.

- First, experiment with the proper weight desired by duct taping metal plates (square or rectangle) to the real tail of the bass.

- Once you've got it right, route out the area under

the bridge, mount the metal plate, put the bridge on top.

 

Unfortunatly I know nothing about the bass and I'm asuming its a solid body. If it's hollow attach a

(curved) piece of metal to the tail.

[Tom Capasso]

I haven't seen the Hondo version, but if it's like the original, the problem is the strap attachment. The neck and head aren't really that heavy (though there is nothing wrong with going to lite tuners). The problem is the lack of an upper horn to balance the instrument. I haven't tried this, but you might want to move the body side strap button up the edge of bass (closer to you, not further underneath). You can try moving the neck button to the back of the little bit of horn that's there, but I don't think it's going to help much.

 

The real question is to understand what problem this causes. Is it during playing? I never felt this issue while playing (but I grew up with my EB3). I find the issue is when you aren't actually playing. I resolved this by using a Planet Waves strap that has locks (so it doesn't ever let go) and a sliding shoulder pad. When I lt go, the head dives for the floor as the strap slides through the pad. It doesn't fall off (strap locking mechanism), and it's too short to hit the floor with the head down. So I can let go whenever I want and not worry.

 

Hope this helps.

Tom

[moot]

Yep. Gotta move those strap buttons. Also, wieghting the body is an alternative. In the 80's I had a Kramer 4 string with the aluminum neck. Talk about neck heavy - what we did was drilled 1/2" holes across the body from the bottom and inserted high density tool steel. Made the silly thing weigh in at about 840 lbs. and gave me a perpetual shoulder cramp but it worked. Good luck with your project.

[ChrisOfDoom]

Originally posted by Tom Capasso:

 

The real question is to understand what problem this causes. Is it during playing? I never felt this issue while playing (but I grew up with my EB3). I find the issue is when you aren't actually playing. I resolved this by using a Planet Waves strap that has locks (so it doesn't ever let go) and a sliding shoulder pad. When I lt go, the head dives for the floor as the strap slides through the pad. It doesn't fall off (strap locking mechanism), and it's too short to hit the floor with the head down. So I can let go whenever I want and not worry.

 

Hope this helps.

Tom

Thanks a lot. The issue I have heard is that when you are playing for a while, your left arm is stuck holding up the bass, which can cause some ergonomic issues. When I was still playing that thing regularly, my left arm got sore really fast, although that was when I was still an absolute beginner(now I am just a regular beginner).

 

I think my friend is going for something that looks cool as opposed to actually playing well, but we'll see where it goes from there. For a bass I bought for 100 at a pawn shop it actually has some decent woodgrain to it so this might turn out cool. Although he is spending next to no money on this, the pickups and bridge are actually handmedowns from my Squire (I figure the pickups from a modern chepa bass are nicer then the pickups from a 20 year old cheap bass).

 

Anyways, when the finish is done I might post some pictures, it should look cool.

[alexclaber]

Originally posted by ChrisOfDoom:

For a bass I bought for 100 at a pawn shop it actually has some decent woodgrain to it so this might turn out cool.

It may but it's not really about whether the wood looks good, it's about whether it sounds good. How does the bass sound unplugged? (yes, I know sounds quiet - apart from that!) Does it have warm round deep bottom? Does it have present and resonant mids? Does it have clear highs? Does it have punchy attack and good sustain?

 

If the wood (and neck joint) isn't up to scratch, no amount of fancy electronics or hardware will help. If it is, then you could get an amazing sounding bass for very little money, my fretless being a fine example of bodged bass brillance!

 

Alex

[doc taz]

Sorry to see you're having trouble. My red Yamaha is also a bit neck heavy, but I wouldn't dream of trying to change it. It does have that old-sk00l P-Bass sound and feel. For me, it would also dishonor its previous owner, who's happily retired at home in the Philippines.

 

Okay, I did install some standard Dunlop strap locks back in 1994, and that does help things a little. The pegs extend about an inch (3 cm) outside the body, so that spreads the area just a little bit.

[Nicklab]

I have a similar problem with my Epiphone Jack Casady bass. Since it's a semi-hollowbody and the peghead is kind of sizable, it tends to take a dive on me. I've reverted to using a strap that's got a higher level of friction where it rests on my shoulder. I also use a Sadowsky outboard preamp that I can attach to the strap, and that helps balance things out a bit.

[Mr. Phil]

I know,

 

Get a big brick of lead, and fabricate a big block bridge and knobs. or better yet, an all Lead body.

 

Talk about sustain...