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Rhino Liner for cabs: it's not only for trucks


g.

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Anybody take a bass cab and have it redone in Rhino Liner? I figure that "rubberized" dull matte finish could look pretty battle-tech and take a pummeling. Maybe even make the cab sound better since box resonance would be better damped.

 

I'm wondering about weight and cost {and what it would be like to have no more smoke smell or lint without that cat-attracting duratuff carpet ; } ...If this stuff isn't too spendy I'll have another reason to think most bass cab manufacturers are way behind the curve.

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I think that'd be cool. Yes, it'd definitely add a little weight to the cab, but not too much. You should paint it camo style to give it more of that 'battle ready' look.

 

It would dampen the resonance, as well, because there would be columns of air for the sound to vibrate in, instead of just wood. I don't know about cost, though, but it shouldn't be too much. Just scope out various hardware stores such as Home Depot, etc. Hope you can find what you're looking for, man.

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My old Peavey 8x10 had that nogahide looking stuff and that sealed the cabinet even more than carpet, but with 11-ply Birch, I don't see that much air penetrating through the wood. But, the Rhino-Lining would make it a tad more durable and you can get the different colors and do some 80's blue and red tiger stripes!

 

"...ain't looking for nothing but a good time and how can I resist..."

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Yeah, well-made cabs are already sealed everywhere they should be. What I was talking about is energy tranference. The less rigid a cab's walls are (and none of them are if they are still portable), the more vibration the walls make, especially with bass sound sources.

 

This soaks up energy that could otherwise be focused into better efficiency and actually makes some sound of its own as well. It is mixed in with the rest of what you hear so you don't necessarily hear it as a discrete sound source. But it emphasizes certain frequencies and soaks others. The exact same drivers in a cab built more rigid and its surfaces better damped sounds more focused and accurate.

 

In bigtime studios, for this reason, the large monitors well may be built with double-wall cabs of structural concrete with the space between the walls filled with sand.

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That's also the reason Acme bass cabs are built with pre-stressed panels. The bracing is just slightly oversized so that the panels already have lots of outward pressure on them. This minimizes vibration and contributes to clarity and bass extension.
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spray-on rubber is already a solution in place in the auto sound industry, and it works.

 

just make sure whatever rubber application you buy is water based, so it dries quickly and washes out of your clothing with some goo gone. i've made the mistake of buying oil-based treatments -- not very good. ;)

 

robb.

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yeah, that stuff looks cool. thinkin about it myself now.

 

by the way, spray-on rubber coating is also the new way to be in home waterproofing. dig a big ol' hole around your basement and spray the crap on. seals the joint up tight as one of r. kelly's dates.

Eeeeeehhhhhhhhh.
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Back in the late 70's-early 80's my contemporaries and I used the spray on bed liner of the time (which was a thick, EXTREMELY hard Epoxy based product) to finish our cabinets. The stuff was practically bulletproof. I see no reason why the newer products shouldn't be at least as durable, if not even better.
Later..................
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61Pbass,

 

Yeah, lots of the club/MI and touring-oriented products used to have epoxy-based industrial spattercoat: JBL Cabaret series, Peavey SP and FH series, Cerwin Vega, etc. Then most of the club and MI manufacturers went to cat scratching-post materials... Must've been 'cause more than a few cats've been known to mark their territory on the cabs - or like to climb through the ports to catch a few zzzzzz's ; }

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GB, I remember those Epoxy finishes--Heck, I played through all of that gear. The stuff I'm talking about was actually a brush on bedliner for trucks that was meant to be applied in 3-4 coats and built to about 1/2" thick. It was some SERIOUS stuff. It also added 6-8 lbs. to a Cabaret sized bin. We actually applied it OVER the factory Epoxy finishes. There were a ton of bands and sound companies using it there for awhile.
Later..................
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My Ampeg cabs are starting to look a little beat up on the outside... Maybe I'll try the bed liner stuff just to make them look better.. Any sound reinforcement would just be a bonus :D Hey GB(or anyone in the know), is it possible to replace my current 8ohm 15" speaker (rated @200watts RMS:400watts program) with a 15" that might handle 600watts? And what the hell is 400 watts program anyway? :freak:

"Suppose you were an idiot ... And suppose you were a member of Congress

... But I repeat myself."

-Mark Twain

http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/63/condition_1.html (my old band)

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Program means that it can take a peak or spike of 400-watts, but not a sustained level. You shouldn't have any problems, but you won't be getting the full capacity of the speaker. You may not notice a difference at all. If you go to a more powerful head, then it would be a good idea to switch to the different speaker. What kind of speaker are you considering or are you just doing some preliminary investigating?
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Man, that sounds like a perfect idea. My old cabs are getting a serious case of the ugly anyway. Definitly post some picks if you decide to try it so we can see what it looks like.

 

To expand on an idea, the rubbery bed liner stuff would go great on the backside of some of my floor effects to stop slippage on those wonderful stages that were made of left over bowling lane stuff. :mad:

 

Iaian

San Andreas,

The hope to save our nation by turning Las Vegas into a seaside community. ;)

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Originally posted by cornbread:

Program means that it can take a peak or spike of 400-watts, but not a sustained level. You shouldn't have any problems, but you won't be getting the full capacity of the speaker. You may not notice a difference at all. If you go to a more powerful head, then it would be a good idea to switch to the different speaker. What kind of speaker are you considering or are you just doing some preliminary investigating?

I'm just pondering... I have an Ampeg SVT4Pro @600watts a side,1200bridged ... My Ampeg 4x10 is rated@600watts(8ohms). I just want to get the max usage, w/out worrying about blowing my load -so to speak. :D

"Suppose you were an idiot ... And suppose you were a member of Congress

... But I repeat myself."

-Mark Twain

http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/63/condition_1.html (my old band)

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As I've yapped a grillion times (I think the last one was in a thread yestidy), no harm in replacing a cab or driver with one that has more power-handling. If one is playing with a modest-sized amp it probably shouldn't be one with a lower efficiency rating however - though those efficiency ratings don't always mean much when it comes to bass response.
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I'm pretty ignorant to these things GB :D I know your a big Carvin fan... Would you recommend a 15" speaker that might work well? I can solder a bit, and I'm sure I could figure out how to do it... Any advice is greatly appreciated :D

"Suppose you were an idiot ... And suppose you were a member of Congress

... But I repeat myself."

-Mark Twain

http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/63/condition_1.html (my old band)

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This looks like what I want for instance, but being as poor as I am, I would hate to be wrong or screw something up...

"Suppose you were an idiot ... And suppose you were a member of Congress

... But I repeat myself."

-Mark Twain

http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/63/condition_1.html (my old band)

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Truck bed liner is polyurethane based, so is most furniture finish and some wood glues, so there should be no problem with the product sticking. And - it can be touched up just like paint. Check out www.herculiner.com

 

My old cab has a high school band name spray painted onto the vinyl... so a fresh coat of something will cover it one day.

- Matt W.
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GB.... that sounds like a really kewl concept... love to see a pic if you do it. My old Marshall combo is covered with that carpet crap, as wall as my Hartke 4x10's. Maybe I can re-do them if this works.

Jason, check out the Carvin PS15C-8. Its rated at 600W/8 ohms and sells for about $110.

Rock on... :cool:

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