DIY Neo Vent remote - ARGHHH!!!

[Bif_]

I know how to do this but it isn't working. Losing my mind over it.

 

I have a three way switch (made for switching pickups on a guitar). I've wired it correctly but the Vent won't respond to it.

 

I plugged a 1/4" jack into the Vent and used test leads to jumper from ground to ring and tip to actuate slow/fast speed. It works perfectly.

 

I connected the three way switch to the 1/4" jack using test leads. It works perfectly.

 

When I solder my wiring to the jack, it won't work. I'm using a cable that has two wires, each with their own braided ground around them. I connected the ground braids at the jack and switch and use each of the wires for ring and tip respectively. And yes, I've tested the wire and each conductor has continuity.

 

I've done this type of easy stuff all my life but guess I'm missing something. Any suggestions?

[bill bosco]

two cables ? you need a stereo cable for the vent with a 3 way switch and a stereo plug ( tip- slow , ring- fast , sleeve - ground , open ground - stop )

[rogs]

With the remote mode set to position 7 o'clock (Switch 1) the Vent needs a momentary closing contact between ring and sleeve for speed change between fast and slow.... And a momentary closing contact between tip and sleeve to stop the 'rotors'.

 

With the remote mode set to 9 o'clock (Switch 2) the Vent uses latching switching. Sadly, the Vent manual doesn't show the actual latching switch connections required - as they use in their CU-1.

 

Bill's post above lists the connections required but which switch contacts need to remain open, and which need to remain closed in all 3 switch positions ?

 

(The momentary closing contacts required for Switch 1 mode are much simpler to get right! )

 

I made some notes about the way I tackled the Vent remote connection issue for my own use (fast /slow switching only - using a sustain pedal)... There maybe something in there that helps?...

 

See here: www.vent.jp137.com

[bill bosco]

sleeve - tip - slow

sleeve -ring -fast

sleeve - neither ( open) brake , this is for a three way switch connection , but i'm not sure

which switching set-up you're looking for . i'm not familiar with the set-up for a simpler pedal

type switching , i've always incorporated the brake with a switch at the console

[Bif_]

Thanks for both responses. To clarify, I have an original neo ventilator and therefore need a single pole double throw switch to have selection of slow and fast speeds. I'm using a stereo shielded cable with the braided Shields going to the sleeve and each of the stereo pair going to the ring and tip respectively.

 

I picked up the three-way switch to simulate a half moon switch. In the center position the sleeve is open to both the ring and tip, thereby stopping all speaker rotation.

 

My wiring is correct but it doesn't work. I have no idea why something this simple doesn't work.

[elif]

You says it doesn't work, but what does it actually do when toggling the switch between the three positions? Stopped in all positions or what?

 

Have you tried diagnosing by hooking it all up and checking the voltages of tip and ring relative to sleeve in all three positions. According to one drawing I saw, Vent_one has 10k internal pullups to +5 V.

[Bif_]

You says it doesn't work, but what does it actually do when toggling the switch between the three positions? Stopped in all positions or what?

 

Have you tried diagnosing by hooking it all up and checking the voltages of tip and ring relative to sleeve in all three positions. According to one drawing I saw, Vent_one has 10k internal pullups to +5 V.

 

 

I'm using this switch. CLONK

 

 

I've wired it as follows:

 

"Neck position" = 'Slow', sleeve is braided ground wires to pin 8, tip wired to pins 2,3.

"Bridge position" = 'Fast', sleeve is braided ground wire to pin 1, ring wired to pins 6,7.

"Center position" = 'Stop', sleeve doesn't go to either tip or ring

The braided ground is around each of the two wires but are twisted together and soldered to the sleeve on the jack. I also put a jumper wire on the switch from pin 1 to pin 8. I know that's redundant but did it anyway.

 

When I plug it into the Vent, the Vent doesn't respond in any way to the position of the switches, UNLESS I toggle the fast speed via the Vent's switch. If I do that, then move the remote switch, regardless of the position of the remote switch, it goes to slow speed only.

 

I'm reasonably certain the Vent is operating correctly as I was able to toggle slow, stop and fast using jumper leads directly to the jack when plugged into the Vent remote output.

[JB Sherry]

A 3 position pickup switch on a dual pickup guitar has NO open circuit position. In the middle position, both pickups are shorted to ground. In the diagram, 2-3 is lit on the left side, and 6-7 is lit on the right side. BOTH are lit in the middle position, and that"s a fail for you.

 

Try wiring tip to 1, ring to 8, and sleeve (ground) to 4-5. Get rid of your jumper.

[bill bosco]

must be something in your wiring up of the switch , i may have reversed the fast and slow on my description , at any rate , make sure you've got the right pins

isolated on your switch . use a meter , make sure you're using the right pin for common ( ground ) ,that should put you in the ballpark , everything works off of that

[ChazKeys]

This might help. I used a Telecaster style pickup selector with my Vent1 and II. Remember you have to set the menu options correctly. Here's a pic.

[Bif_]

A 3 position pickup switch on a dual pickup guitar has NO open circuit position. In the middle position, both pickups are shorted to ground. In the diagram, 2-3 is lit on the left side, and 6-7 is lit on the right side. BOTH are lit in the middle position, and that"s a fail for you.

 

Try wiring tip to 1, ring to 8, and sleeve (ground) to 4-5. Get rid of your jumper.

 

BINGO! Success!! Thank you.

 

My DIY ego is bruised by my oversight. I'm grateful for the assistance here.

 

Funny sidenote.....I made the wiring changes, hooked everything up and.......it didn't work. Thought I'd lose my mind. Finally figured out the 1/4" stereo jack I was using was wonky, something weird with the sleeve. Had to bend it a bit to get it to work, a poor connection between the point of solder connection and the actual sleeve.

 

Many thanks for all the responses and assistance here. Great people here.

 

Although my DIY chops are weakened I'm getting ready to try to repair a Casio DP for my daughter. We'll see how that goes.

[Bif_]

FWIW.......I've got less than $15 in this switch. Got the 3 way switch for $9, it's smooth as silk. The project box was $1.50 and the 1/4" stereo plug $1.75, all on Amazon. Had cable laying around.

[bill bosco]

i've been using leslie three ways , they're a little pricey , but they're tank like compared to the cheap stuff that comes with most of the clones .

at those low voltages i expect they'll last a long time . possibly you can get them cheaper through some other outfit

[Bif_]

Although my DIY chops are weakened I'm getting ready to try to repair a Casio DP for my daughter. We'll see how that goes.

 

Well, I had far better luck fixing the Casio than making the half moon switch. I'd worked on this Casio back in the summer while visiting my daughter in Florida. It had been damaged during a move. With limited tools, time and workspace I could not fix it, even with the help from here as I'd posted about it at that time.

 

My daughter and her husband were home here for Christmas and they brought it along. Took about three hours total for teardown, repair, reassemble and testing (played it for a bit). The actual fix was about 15 minutes, snapping weighted arms in place on the bottom of a few dozen keys.

 

I now know how to pull the entire keybed out of a Casio DP. Another skillset in my brain and some restoration of my DIY chops.