LiveMusic Posted January 1, 2002 Share Posted January 1, 2002 Trying to copy make CD copies and it isn't working but it's worked fine before. What's the likelihood of blank CDs being screwed up? I also note streaks (in straight lines) of a clear substance that emanates from the hole in the center of the CD outwards to the edge. Like it's oil that's being spun outward onto the CD. I mean, it wouldn't be water, it would have to be oil from a bearing or something in the CDRW drive. I checked a CD I made last week and I don't see any streaks on it. I wonder if this CDRW drive has gone bad? It's only a few months old. Any ideas? > > > [ Live! ] < < < Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny M Posted January 1, 2002 Share Posted January 1, 2002 Sometimes, a CD burner will not work as well (or at all) with certain brands of media. (Not all CD-R's are created equal.) I would imagine that a (relatively) wide variation exists in the quality and consistency of blank CD-R media. In the end, paying a bit more for blank CD's may be a good choice; both for certainty of being able to write to the media, and for the media's longevity. However, I think that you have a point with asking about your CD-RW drive itself. I once worked with a drive that had been dropped, and it displayed all kinds of odd behavior (including refusing to write discs at times) until it finally quit working. -Danny Grace, Peace, V, and Hz, Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust65 Posted January 2, 2002 Share Posted January 2, 2002 A while back i got a call from a friend who was having a similar problem so i went over to his place to take a look at it. After examining the drive and finding it worked fine on the CD-R diskc that i brought over, I looked at the CD-R discs he had bought (they were some office max brand, or something like that) Sure enough there was something that looked like oil on them. It wouldnt wipe off, i tried some cleaning tricks for CDs i know and that didnt solve the problem. I came to the final conclsuion that the blank CD-Rs were simply a defect set. I'm not sure what brand of CD-Rs you bought, but you might want to consider a new brand. That or it could just be one of those freak accidents that slips thru quality control. It happens to the best of them. **Faust65** **Faust65** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intheether Posted January 2, 2002 Share Posted January 2, 2002 I once used a brand "verbatim" which burned fine for data...but lots of cd players weren't able to play back audio. Beware of this brand for music. ~nel * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiveMusic Posted January 2, 2002 Author Share Posted January 2, 2002 [quote]Originally posted by faust65: [b]A while back i got a call from a friend who was having a similar problem so i went over to his place to take a look at it. After examining the drive and finding it worked fine on the CD-R diskc that i brought over, I looked at the CD-R discs he had bought (they were some office max brand, or something like that) Sure enough there was something that looked like oil on them. It wouldnt wipe off, i tried some cleaning tricks for CDs i know and that didnt solve the problem. I came to the final conclsuion that the blank CD-Rs were simply a defect set. I'm not sure what brand of CD-Rs you bought, but you might want to consider a new brand. That or it could just be one of those freak accidents that slips thru quality control. It happens to the best of them. **Faust65**[/b][/quote] Well, guess what... I bought these as Office Max! The brand is Hi-Val, so maybe it has nothing to do with Office Max. But yesterday, I concluded that the oil stuff I saw is NOT from the CDROM drive, it's from the CDs. This is a 50-count stack of CDs and there is a small drop of oil between each CD, near the very center. I wonder what is a good brand of CD blanks? Should I be concerned in the future? And IF the CD records okay, I wonder if it might "go bad" in the future... these that I find on sale for little of nothing... these were $5 for 50 CDs (on sale for 14.99 minus $10 rebate). So, moral of the story is, does anyone think you are better off paying more and sticking with brand name blanks? > > > [ Live! ] < < < Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katiedawg Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 Well, after reading lots of stuff...then, after trying different things, what I've determined is: Use Taiyo Yuden CD blanks. They just work everywhere I've tried them...burners and readers alike. Verbatim blanks are also reported as excellent choices, along with Mitsui. Don't use "audio CDs" in a computer burner. They are for the standalone decks. They will often work in a computer burner, but my understanding is that the error rate tends to be very high. Some readers will just go ape when they come across this. Use data grade CDs for the computer burners. Don't use 80 minute blanks...use the 74s. The 80s are not Red Book compliant (so say various websites and the popup screens on various burning programs). Yeah, they usually work...but you just don't know when you'll come across a reader that hates 'em. No big deal if it's you that experiences the problems...but do you want your demo and/or sale to be on a hit-or-miss blank? I've had good luck with CDR Outlet. No, I have no connection with them...I've just had good luck there. [url=http://www.CDROutlet.com]CDR Outlet Home Page[/url] If guns are outlawed, can we use swords? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust65 Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 I use the verbatims on occasion, they are ok. Ive never had a problem. I prefer to use BASF or Quantegy, but they run knd of expensive. When i buy in bulk i buy a 100 stack of Imation CD-Rs. These are 80 minute however. When Im burning something to give to someone or when it is for something other than personal use or reference i use follow Red Book standards all the way to writing the PQ codes and all. Its all trial and error. I got a great burner that I love, and am yet to be misfortunate with my burning programs and / or my CD-Rs. **Faust65** **Faust65** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip McDonald Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 I've said it before, and I'm going to say it again - despite Roger thinking it's bollocks: The darker the dye in the cd the better. If you can see through it, you're going to have problems. I don't think anything really matters outside of that in my experience. The new black cd's seems to be perfect, I've never had a problem with one (gone through about 50 by now I would guess) and they seem to agree with all cd players around me much better than anything else, basically spins up/TOC read as quick as a factory OEM disc. Guitar Lessons in Augusta Georgia: www.chipmcdonald.com Eccentric blog: https://chipmcdonaldblog.blogspot.com/ / "big ass windbag" - Bruce Swedien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobSanders Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 C-NET did a test on cd-r's. The two best as far as error rates were Yamaha then Comp USA brand believe it or not. Comp USA's are much less expensive of course. It's worth reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrossmusic Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 I was using a cd-r called Microboards Technology manufactured by Taiyo Yuden (CDR 80ZYPA) with a Marantz deck (CDR631). Didn't have any problems for about six months. Then I got a box of ten of which about four failed. Maybe it was just a bad batch. Anyway I switched to Maxell and have yet to have any more problems. The tech guy at Marantz said that he had heard from a guy who had used one brand for a year and for some unknown reason started to have problems with them. Again it could be that you just get a bad batch from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiveMusic Posted January 3, 2002 Author Share Posted January 3, 2002 Can anyone tell me if it's okay to write on a CD with a Sharpie pen? I've read that you aren't supposed to use these types of permanent markers. That you are supposed to use water based markers, not permanent because they have a solvent that can damage the CD. Well, my girlfriend has been writing on her CDs with Sharpies for years, with no ill effects. What's the deal? (I bought a water based marker and it just wipes right off... that won't work.) Problem is... making a CD and then a label for the jewel case is fine but I need something on the CD itself to identify it. Using a marker is certainly easier than affixing a label to the CD itself. Is there a website that has great tips for recording CDs? > > > [ Live! ] < < < Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackpine Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 [quote]Originally posted by LiveMusic: [b]Can anyone tell me if it's okay to write on a CD with a Sharpie pen? [/b][/quote] From everything I've read, no, you shouldn't use a sharpie. Whether its the alcohol eating through acetate or some other chemical reaction. The bottom line is... why take the risk? TDK makes a CD marker that cost about 2 bucks.... Just go get one and you wont have to worry. All the electronic superstores carry them. And FWIW, I have a Saturn II duplication system and have run....maybe 5000 cd's. I use Tayio Yuden Printwrites (inkjet surface) exclusively. In all, I've had maybe 20 duds. And they all seem to happen in a row. Say... 5 at a time. I think its a manufacturing defect. But if you develop a RELATIONSHIP with your supplier, you collect 'em up, send 'em out and they'll send you new ones. jim www.relayerstudios.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiveMusic Posted January 3, 2002 Author Share Posted January 3, 2002 [quote]Originally posted by jackpine: [b]I use Tayio Yuden Printwrites (inkjet surface) exclusively.[/b][/quote] Jim, where do you buy Tayio Yuden Printwrite CDs? Price? You said "inkjet surface." Printwrites? What do you mean by that? > > > [ Live! ] < < < Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackpine Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 [quote]Originally posted by LiveMusic: [b] Jim, where do you buy Tayio Yuden Printwrite CDs? Price? You said "inkjet surface." Printwrites? What do you mean by that?[/b][/quote] I'm buying now from Techware distribution in Minneapolis,MN. 1-800-295-0083 At my quantity (usually 500 or 1000) my price is .54/unit. On the spindle. Because my system includes an integrated color inkjet printer that prints directly on the surface of the CD, i use CD's with a Matte printable surface. If you use labels or just write on your cd's, you could just buy the Tayio yuden silvers for less money and get the same CD's minus the printable surface. I have been able to find Tayio Yuden silvers in a jewel box at Guitar Center for as low as .50/unit by the case( usually 100) Hope this helps jim www.relayerstudios.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackpine Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 And in the shameless plug department. If anyone has more ???? regarding dupes of any quantity. I have been know to give pretty damn good deals to folks from these forums. Just email me at jmiles@centurytel.net jim www.relayerstudios.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lwilliam Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 I've had good results (and service) buying from these guys: [url=http://www.cd-dvd-supplies.com]www.cd-dvd-supplies.com[/url] I have no connection with them... Larry W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AudioMaverick Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 I've read the packing material with just about every brand/model CD blank I've purchased. Whenever I DON'T get the ones with the matte finish for ink-based printers, there is a disclaimer to NOT put labels on them or write on them with anything. Supposedly, with just a thin urethane coating over the foil, the ink from a pen can bleed into the emulsion and cause read problems from tthe data side. Whenever I write on them, I make sure I don't write over the burned area, just along the outer ring. The matte finished CDs are thicker on the side where the emulsion is applied. And, this makes the top side more *durable*, as it were. I've had issues with the thinner shiny surfaces and paper labels where air bubbles somethimes get under them. The worst thing to do in this case is press on the bubble, because it acts like a plunger and pulls the emulsion right off the plastic. This is a destructive and non-repairable occurance. I found that I can get rid of the bubbles by starting a disc copy and letting the CD writer spin the disc at its high speed. So far, it has worked on the discs in question. As for the emulsion color, there is some correlation with color of the medium, as Chip mentioned. In reality, the big issue is the "transmiscivity" of the infrared beam to the media, regardless of color. Dark blue is at the opposite end of the light spectrum, and usually works best. But, there is an absolutely clear (to the human eye) disc running around that filters out infrared light. It looks just slightly hazy when you look through it. And, it plays. I haven't seen any for sale, so I am guessing they aren't quite ready for the masses. Personally, I don't see them as practical, even though it would allow a bottom side to a disc label. I wish I could remember which company did this. Lately, I've been using Fujifilm "blue" (with the Pthalocyanine dye) and Ritek "silver/silver" with great luck. The Fujifilms do work well for audio, but I mostly use them for data. The Riteks were mostly for audio. I did hit a site that rated them one of the 3 worst for the weather tests -- they tended to peel (ouch!). So far, the only unreadable audio discs I've made were above *8x* on my HP burner. My future purchases will be Taiyo-Yudens with the matte or white finish. "It's all about the... um-m-m, uh-h-h..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cerumen Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 since dec 15 i've burned 175 cds already on this tdk 24x burner...using tdk blanks... no problems.... cds have worked everywhere.. also... i've been using these cds marked for 16x(tdk) in 24x mode... and no problems either... using nero 5.o i must say 24x is awesome.. =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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