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Stage pianos / durability - advise me!


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Howdy,

I've been using Korg SV1s since they came out. I'm happy with them, except I tend to need a new RH3 keybed every 2-3 years, and I've noticed that for me the lifespan of an SV1 is about 5 years (at which time electronics just start failing).

 

I break keys from time to time, and I can repair those myself, but I'm interested to know what the most durable stage piano is right now. I work 3-5 times a week, and I guess I play pretty hard. I'm usually not terribly prominent in the mix, so I'm interested in something tough. I had a Yamaha CP33 that I liked a lot, but I snapped that plastic keybed like a little twig.

 

I need something new. My front-runners at the moment are: 1. another SV1 (by now I have a garage full of parts); 2. Korg Grand Stage; 3. Yamaha CP4.

 

What do y'all think?

 

 

 

 

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I break keys from time to time, and I can repair those myself, but I'm interested to know what the most durable stage piano is right now.

Maybe try switching to vibraphone? :idk :)

Or just :rimshot:

 

In all seriousness, I'm not sure any of us have an answer for you. Someone would have to say, "I've been in your shoes and I ended up with the YamaKaRorgIo ZX-5G and haven't broken a key since."

 

I actually think the "louder amp" suggestion above might be best, or going in-ear and adjusting your mix. I know when I can't hear myself I tend to play harder until I realize my arms are getting sore. Then I say, "f-it" and play lighter and deal with not being able to hear myself well.

"I'm so crazy, I don't know this is impossible! Hoo hoo!" - Daffy Duck

 

"The good news is that once you start piano you never have to worry about getting laid again. More time to practice!" - MOI

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I'm usually not terribly prominent in the mix, so I'm interested in something tough.

I'm confused by this statement? Are you saying you smash the **** out of the keys because you can't hear yourself? That doesn't seem to make much sense, feel free to correct me if I've misunderstood.

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When I am competing with loud guitars on stage I use a set of in-ears plugged into my stage mixer's headphone jack.....works great and solves several mix-related issues

----------------------------------------------------------

 

Gig: Yamaha MODX7, NumaX 73 Piano  Studio: Kawai ES-920; Hammond SK Pro 73; Yamaha Motif ES7 w/DX,VL,VH; Yamaha YC 73; Kawai MP-6; Numa Compact 2x

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I'm usually not terribly prominent in the mix, so I'm interested in something tough.

I'm confused by this statement? Are you saying you smash the **** out of the keys because you can't hear yourself? That doesn't seem to make much sense, feel free to correct me if I've misunderstood.

 

What I mean by that, is that it doesn't matter what it sounds like so much. It matters more that it won't break. I can usually hear myself just fine.

In other words I'd trade a better sounding unit for a well-built one.

 

 

 

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In all seriousness, I think many of us are concerned that something else is going on. While Korg has had certain issues with their RH3 keybed, as soon you mentioned that you are also breaking keys on a Yamaha CP33 (which is a proven stage workhorse for many of us) we have been suggesting alternative options. I also think that the suggestion to look at a keyboard with wooden keys is a viable one as well, so the CP4 or Kawai MP11SE might be both worth looking into.

----------------------------------------------------------

 

Gig: Yamaha MODX7, NumaX 73 Piano  Studio: Kawai ES-920; Hammond SK Pro 73; Yamaha Motif ES7 w/DX,VL,VH; Yamaha YC 73; Kawai MP-6; Numa Compact 2x

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In all seriousness, I think many of us are concerned that something else is going on. While Korg has had certain issues with their RH3 keybed, as soon you mentioned that you are also breaking keys on a Yamaha CP33 (which is a proven stage workhorse for many of us) we have been suggesting alternative options. I also think that the suggestion to look at a keyboard with wooden keys is a viable one as well, so the CP4 or Kawai MP11SE might be both worth looking into.

 

Im not sure how the Kawai keys are built, but the wood in the CP4 keys dont seem structural to me. They look more like inserts on the sides of the white keys so you see wood when the adjacent keys are pressed. That being said, the CP4 keys are the most durable keys that this pounder has used (except for the oft mentioned key guides issue).

CA93, MODX8, YC88, K8.2
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I would suggest a cheap CASIO Privia like the PX-160. That way when you destroy it your not out much. I honestly can't imagine going through so many RH3 actions. I had an SV1-73 for about 4 years and thought the keys were pretty tough to put up with my abuse.

Boards: Kurzweil SP-6, Roland FA-08, VR-09, DeepMind 12

Modules: Korg Radias, Roland D-05, Bk7-m & Sonic Cell

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Thanks for the suggestions, and all of the great comedy (I knew I could count on that level of clownery from this bunch...)

 

It's not a stage volume issue for me. I can hear everything just fine.

It's not a technique issue. I know how to play correctly. There is a lot of showbiz in my performance. The Jerry Lee/standing up/windmill glisses business. It's only quasi-musical, but it's entertaining. The crowds respond to it. I'd just like to find a board that can stand up to it better.

Maybe my best option is to keep buying SV-1s and RH3 keybeds, and call it a cost of doing what I do.

 

One problem I've had - besides the keybed/key issues - is components wearing out. I've lost the XLR outputs on both Korg pianos. The one I'm renting currently came with the XLR outputs not working. That's not a result of my brutish performance. That's a parts failure on three different units in less than 5 years. I've lost other electronic doo-dads in the cicuitry just from failure. The techs told me it's because Korg uses cheap components. I was hoping for something better.

 

 

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But not the RD-500. I liked the 500 but I had friends who were players that were breaking hammers on their RD-500s. I hadn't yet so I sold it and replaced it.

 

The breaking hammers were a common issue.

"It doesn't have to be difficult to be cool" - Mitch Towne

 

"A great musician can bring tears to your eyes!!!

So can a auto Mechanic." - Stokes Hunt

 

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But not the RD-500. I liked the 500 but I had friends who were player that were breaking hammers on their RD-500s. I hadn't yet so I sold it and replaced it.

 

The breaking hammers were a common issue.

 

I remember seeing club players in Nashville replacing keys (and more) on their RD-500s/600s, between sets.

'Someday, we'll look back on these days and laugh; likely a maniacal laugh from our padded cells, but a laugh nonetheless' - Mr. Boffo.

 

We need a barfing cat emoticon!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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But not the RD-500. I liked the 500 but I had friends who were player that were breaking hammers on their RD-500s. I hadn't yet so I sold it and replaced it.

 

The breaking hammers were a common issue.

 

I remember seeing club players in Nashville replacing keys (and more) on their RD-500s/600s, between sets.

 

Agree completely on those models. I owned a Roland RD-600 that routinely broke the hammer assemblies on certain notes even after extended practice.

----------------------------------------------------------

 

Gig: Yamaha MODX7, NumaX 73 Piano  Studio: Kawai ES-920; Hammond SK Pro 73; Yamaha Motif ES7 w/DX,VL,VH; Yamaha YC 73; Kawai MP-6; Numa Compact 2x

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Jokes apart,replacing keybeds every couple of years and the whole keyboard every 5?!?

Breaking keys "like twigs"?!?

 

Never seen or heard something like that, honestly.

Rh3 is not the best action around, but surely it's not the worst. And the SV1 is not a cheap board. I can't imagine consciously throwing away that much money on a regular basis.

 

If that's your style of playing, I don't think you'll find anything that lasts much longer.

As others have said, I think the best solution is to use cheap disposable Casios (they have a very decent action for the price) that you can buy in truckloads: for the price of a single SV1 you can buy 4-5 PX-160 and be set for a while.

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the wood in the CP4 keys dont seem structural to me. They look more like inserts on the sides of the white keys so you see wood when the adjacent keys are pressed.

 

That is not the case. The CP4 keys are solid wood, and the keys are all cut from the same plank, like in a piano.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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That is not the case. The CP4 keys are solid wood, and the keys are all cut from the same plank, like in a piano.

 

Nope, plastic with wood on the sides.

 

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-Mike Martin

 

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The opinions I post here are my own and do not represent the company I work for.

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