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DI boxes


hurricane hugo
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Thanks for that. Very interesting. I'd like to try one of those. Oops, I think that they ran out of them. No more vintage transformers of the type used available. They were going for $799 which is pretty steep for a DI box.

 

I've been using Countryman di boxes for years. No tone or volume controls. All of that either happens on the bass or in the mix.

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If I want total transparency, I use Radial - good bang for the buck. If I want coloration (in a good way) I use the SansAmp Bass Driver DI.

Dan

 

Acoustic/Electric stringed instruments ranging from 4 to 230 strings, hammered, picked, fingered, slapped, and plucked. Analog and Digital Electronic instruments, reeds, and throat/mouth.

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I've got a Radial JDI. It's a solid DI, without a doubt. And I've used a Countryman for recording, too.

 

Over at TalkBass there is a LOT of fandom for the A Designs REDDI DI box. It's about as high-end of a DI as you can find, and it creates some serious warmth in your tone. Thank the tubes in the REDDI. Check out this YouTube demo for a good listen. If I was recording more and could a box like this to use, I would seriously consider investing in a REDDI.

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"My concern is, and I have to, uh, check with my accountant, that this might bump me into a higher, uh, tax..."

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Both of my amps have DIs built in and they work very well.

Over the years I have used many different DIs and they have all worked well enough.

 

Ones I can remember;

 

Sansamp

MXR

Whirlwind

Carvin

Berhinger

Countryman

Radial

ART

Fishman

 

I've been wanting to pick up a Countryman to have in my gig case, but just haven't gotten around to it. I would definitely like to try out the REDDI unit.

Nothing is as it seems but everything is exactly what it is - B. Banzai

 

Life is what happens while you are busy playing in bands.

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I've got a Radial JDI. It's a solid DI, without a doubt.

 

Over at TalkBass there is a LOT of fandom for the A Designs REDDI DI box. It's about as high-end of a DI as you can find, and it creates some serious warmth in your tone. Thank the tubes in the REDDI.

 

If I was recording more and could a box like this to use, I would seriously consider investing in a REDDI.

 

Yeah, it's been a great DI for me for a long time.

Yes, I've read all the talk on TB about it and watched a bunch of videos.

I don't do "sessions" but we record our service at church every week and post it on Soundcloud so I guess I do record. That's why I'm debating it a bit. They say on TB that it does wonders for IEM systems like we use at church.

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the REDDI adds some low mid punch. it also sounds like it's cutting a little bit of highs. it's not revolutionary, but it does sound nice. doing that with low noise isn't trivial.

 

That's a good thing for some. But the Countryman sounds like me and my bass to me so as far as simple and practical goes...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Of course there are many categories of DI. The one to avoid is the one on your amp. :-) They are almost all unbelievably bad; especially the ones on SWR amps. The Mesa ones might be OK.

 

REDDI isn't a sound I like at all, but I understand its appeal for those who are going for that tone (just not my cup of tea).

 

Of more general appeal (that is, less heavily coloured in its sound) is the Nice DI (and related preamp and DI models) from Phoenix Audio. Also a nice price. A truly versatile unit; I may pick one up eventually, but right now I have no need for it.

 

I sold my Radial DI's when I stopped doing gigs that involve sound reinforcement. If I do a gig like that again, I'll let the technical side be someone else's responsibility/problem.

 

The passive model (JDI?) with the Jensen transformer is back to using Jensen again soon, as radial just bought Jensen. It is a fine model, but only works well on active instruments.

 

For passive instruments, you are better off with an active DI. Radial makes two or three similar units that sound and act quite different; one takes battery-only and another can use XLR phantom power (my preference). I sold that one too; no need any more.

 

Currently, I use the newer piezo-oriented Radial DI (gold-coloured) in the studio all the time. Very flexible, and also covers the ground that the earlier active DI's cover. I no longer use passive DI's; I came to the realization that they are a compromise that needn't be made except when circumstances dictate (such as at gigs). Active DI's are almost always more transparent (transformerless helps).

 

Higher up the market, and crossing over between DI's and pre-amps, are the Avalon U5 (for active instruments) and the Summit Audio TD-100 (?) for passive instruments. I used both for several years. I sold them when I bought the Mesa Walkabout bass amp head as I decided I was better off with bass-oriented gear than general purpose pro audio gear for bass duties.

 

There's another company whose name that I forget, who makes the most flexible DI on the market. It has flexible routing, three basic modules in one rack unit, re-amping, phase alignment, and all sorts of Swiss Army Knife features to cover all needs.

 

In terms of basic lump-shaped DI boxes, I have to recommend the Radial gear over the Countryman units (and others mentioned), having used them all. The Radial stuff is noiseless and about as transparent as it gets. Countryman was ahead of their time, and I respect the company itself and their people. For something like acoustic guitar plugged in, it might sometimes be the right tonal match. Radial has them beat on bass though.

 

I don't know if the site is still active, but basstasters used to have a whole bunch of comparisons. They're very accurate in my view, as I have personally tried many of their combinations in person. They did a good job of limiting the variables and recording things accurately.

 

 

Eugenio Upright, 60th P-Bass, Geddy Lee J-Bass, Hofner HCT-500/7, Yamaha BBP35, Viking Bari

Select Strat, Select Tele, Am Pro JM, LP 57 Gold, G5422DC-12, T486, ES295, PM2, EXL1

XK1c, Voyager, Prophet XL

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Haha, just went back and read the first post, as I thought this was a continuing thread. The O.P. didn't find the other one, which was probably started a week or two prior. I'm not going to bother searching for it; I have the same problem myself half the time I look for a post.

 

Not trying to embarrass Hugo, but if anyone finds the other post, there might be useful info in there in more esoteric stuff like the various Demeter models.

Eugenio Upright, 60th P-Bass, Geddy Lee J-Bass, Hofner HCT-500/7, Yamaha BBP35, Viking Bari

Select Strat, Select Tele, Am Pro JM, LP 57 Gold, G5422DC-12, T486, ES295, PM2, EXL1

XK1c, Voyager, Prophet XL

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  • 2 years later...

Not that I'm in the market for one, but...

 

How do you tell if a preamp has a hot enough output to directly drive a poweramp without needing another preamp stage?

 

No. Don't say, "Plug it in." I'm talking about before the Man In Brown delivers it to my door.

 

Things are just the way they are, and they're only going to get worse.

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I have used my Radial JDI with passive basses and it works just fine.

I tried a REDDI and while nice, not what worked for me.

I still have my JDI and doubt I will change. We practiced last night and my Roscoe sounded amazing in the FOH and my IEM's.

 

Isn't 1 meg ohm the magic number to drive a power amp?

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The Phoenix is quite good also, and their quad unit has nice EQ and can be used for many purposes. It was on my long list before I made the final decision to go to transformerless active DI's. I use the Radial PZ-DI now as it has three impedances.

Eugenio Upright, 60th P-Bass, Geddy Lee J-Bass, Hofner HCT-500/7, Yamaha BBP35, Viking Bari

Select Strat, Select Tele, Am Pro JM, LP 57 Gold, G5422DC-12, T486, ES295, PM2, EXL1

XK1c, Voyager, Prophet XL

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  • 2 weeks later...
Not that I'm in the market for one, but...

 

How do you tell if a preamp has a hot enough output to directly drive a poweramp without needing another preamp stage?

 

No. Don't say, "Plug it in." I'm talking about before the Man In Brown delivers it to my door.

 

That's an excellent question. Technically, if you can get your hands on it, the technical specifications should specify a gain. I don't know what's adequate for your application, but you should be able to test with existing equipment to see how much gain you need. I typically find that +6dB is plenty, but that's me.

 

Dan

 

Acoustic/Electric stringed instruments ranging from 4 to 230 strings, hammered, picked, fingered, slapped, and plucked. Analog and Digital Electronic instruments, reeds, and throat/mouth.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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