Phil Aiken Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Going to look at a Clav. Other than the obvious, or maybe even including the obvious, what should look out for? Not much experience in this area other than playing one in a local studio a few times. Moog The One, VV 64 EP, Wurlies 200A 140 7300, Forte 7, Mojo 61, OB-6, Prophet 6, Polaris, Hammond A100, Farfisa VIP, ,Young Chang 6', Voyager, E7 Clav, Midiboard, Linnstrument, Seaboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorgatron Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 are you the guy that offered me the '65 Bandmaster in trade for my Clavinet II? most obvious is hammer tips & strings, although those are easily (and relatively cheaply) replaced. occasionally the hammer tips will be misaligned, playing 2 notes on one key. not hard to fix, but aligning the hammer tips properly can be tedious. more expensive are broken pickups, but there are replacements available from more than one source. cases can be retolexed, but you'd have to make your own stencils for the graphics. latches, corners, legs & hardware can be sourced, but won't always be the same as original, so probably best to get complete sets of these and chuck the originals, or send them to me to put in my parts bin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Mainly check out the action by removing the front panel. Before the model C, they had tuning pegs, which can freeze and twist off heads. Tuning gears on the C and later are more reliable. Check to make sure the hammers are pretty straight, as a lot of bent hammers means it was pounded on. Open the top and make sure the yarn is still properly woven. Check the hammer tips for grooving - does it pop loudly when you release the keys? Any missing strings? These previous 3 things are problems you can correct relatively easy yourself, although reweaving the yarn is a pain. Make sure all pickup combinations work. A dead pickup is expensive to replace. Check how badly does it buzz, and does the mute lever (if present) work? That's about all I can think of. Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doerfler Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Mainly check out the action by removing the front panel. Before the model C, they had tuning pegs, which can freeze and twist off heads. Tuning gears on the C and later are more reliable. Check to make sure the hammers are pretty straight, as a lot of bent hammers means it was pounded on. Open the top and make sure the yarn is still properly woven. Check the hammer tips for grooving - does it pop loudly when you release the keys? Any missing strings? These previous 3 things are problems you can correct relatively easy yourself, although reweaving the yarn is a pain. Make sure all pickup combinations work. A dead pickup is expensive to replace. Check how badly does it buzz, and does the mute lever (if present) work? That's about all I can think of. Mate hit all the important points. Most important thing is the pickups. Even if they work, check for cracks. Often hairline cracks are visible. Replacement pickups are expensive, they run $150 to $300 each depending where you get them. The good news is that there are places now to get replacement parts, 20 years ago it was much more difficult to find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Aiken Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 are you the guy that offered me the '65 Bandmaster in trade for my Clavinet II? Nope, not I. It is a D6, described to be in decent functional shape, but not great cosmetic shape. Torn tolex, no legs. One sticky key in the upper register. Also, no external power supply. That said, the price is right, so if the pickups all seem to work and the action is not too beat up, and there are no crazy electrical issues it seems like it will be a decent score that I can play now but fix up over time. Thanks for the advice! Moog The One, VV 64 EP, Wurlies 200A 140 7300, Forte 7, Mojo 61, OB-6, Prophet 6, Polaris, Hammond A100, Farfisa VIP, ,Young Chang 6', Voyager, E7 Clav, Midiboard, Linnstrument, Seaboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonysounds Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Bring lots of $$$! GOOD LUCK, and send pics if you win!@ Hitting "Play" does NOT constitute live performance. -Me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Aiken Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 I decided not to pull the trigger. While I didn't care so much about cosmetics, the action was pretty messed up on some keys, and it did not seem structurally sound. It was pretty beat on. I think I will save up for a nicer one. I wish I could get one of the new Vintage Vibe ones - but terribly expensive for someone who wants to incorporate it into rock recordings, and not have it be the main axe it might be for a funk player, say... Come to think of it - Terry Adams does not get enough love on this board!!!!! Another discussion for another time. Moog The One, VV 64 EP, Wurlies 200A 140 7300, Forte 7, Mojo 61, OB-6, Prophet 6, Polaris, Hammond A100, Farfisa VIP, ,Young Chang 6', Voyager, E7 Clav, Midiboard, Linnstrument, Seaboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doerfler Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 better luck next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEB Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Terry Adams was a big influence on me. It is his fault. LOL. "It doesn't have to be difficult to be cool" - Mitch Towne "A great musician can bring tears to your eyes!!! So can a auto Mechanic." - Stokes Hunt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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