Jump to content


Please note: You can easily log in to MPN using your Facebook account!

hammond sk1 loose screws!!


spazzkey

Recommended Posts

so - got my new hammond sk1-73 - loving the b3 sounds, pleasantly surprised by the other sounds as well - :)

 

- and -

 

when I received it last week, the right end panel was loose!! :mad:

turns out the 3 screws on it were loose... so much for QC... I tighten them up - all good...

 

last night packing up after a motown jam, I go to show one of the guys how I like the light weight of the board (compared to my NS2-76) and lift the board off the stand and swing it vertical to put in the case -

 

and we hear a coin? a washer? a screw? something banging around on the inside... I can't believe it!! :sick:

 

what do I do?

 

open the case to see what's going on?

 

send it back? (shipping is $80 each way...)

 

anyone opened one of these up?

 

tips? tricks?

 

thanks!

 

 

gig: hammond sk-1 73, neo vent, nord stage 2 76, ancona 34 accordion, cps space station v3

home: steinway m, 1950 hammond c2

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Replies 18
  • Created
  • Last Reply

If it is made like most boards, an endcap should be rather easily removable (and reattachable without the likelihood of causing problems). Remove, hold vertically and shake a little to see if you can get the loose part out.

 

Before doing this, contact the vendor and ask if they will pay shipment one way or both ways. Most vendors that I have dealt with will pay shipment back to you.

Howard Grand|Hamm SK1-73|Kurz PC2|PC2X|PC3|PC3X|PC361; QSC K10's

HP DAW|Epi Les Paul & LP 5-str bass|iPad mini2

"Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen."

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may be one of the key weights. A few of those have come loose. I believe H/S is addressing this with Fatar.

They should have used the keyboard from the XK3c! Damn, I know... :deadhorse:

'55 and '59 B3's, Leslies 147, 122, 21H, Motif XS7, Mellotrons M300 and M400, Wurlitzer 200, Gibson G101, Vox Continental, Mojo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just received my SK1-73 yesterday with the exact same problem. All 3 screws on the right hand endcap were very loose. Also tightened them up and all seems good. That seems like an odd qc problem.......?
Montage 7, Mojo 61, PC-3, XK-3c Pro, Kronos 88, Hammond SK-1, Motif XF- 7, Hammond SK-2, Roland FR-1, FR-18, Hammond B3 - Blond, Hammond BV -Cherry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to say something too negative about my impression of the SK1-73 (politics & religion, lol) but having never demoed any of these in person, I was able to take a listen & look a few weeks ago when one FINALLY showed up locally.

 

Having read & listened to pretty much everything posted here & elsewhere, it met my expectations both in greatness (organ) and weakness (extra sounds), but the thing that I wasn't prepared to see was in lack of build quality: buttons that aren't seated tightly and feel like they'd seize up or fail, cheap plastic parts throughout, endblocks that look like they'd dent or chip just by looking at them the wrong way. Detached key weights and loose screws don't surprise me at all.

 

I've gotten used to more substantial engineering from Nord over the years, and granted the difference in price to the SK series is a factor, but you would think HS would encase their circuit boards in a body that inspires confidence in the owner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

____________________________________
Rod

victoria bc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I have been using the original SK1 since it was released. I play about 100 nights a year, and knock on wood, it has held up extremely well. The end caps have not scratched and all the buttons and sliders work flawlessly. It is always transported in a gator case by me personally.

 

I expect the SK1-73 to hold up just the same. We will see......

Montage 7, Mojo 61, PC-3, XK-3c Pro, Kronos 88, Hammond SK-1, Motif XF- 7, Hammond SK-2, Roland FR-1, FR-18, Hammond B3 - Blond, Hammond BV -Cherry
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - found it!!

 

pulled the end panel and was able to shake out a small black phillips head screw like the smaller ones on the back panel close to the various in/out put jacks... about 5/16" long...

 

do I need to figure out where it came from and re-install?

 

anyone know how to remove the top panel? specifically it looks like the knobs need to be removed to be able to do that...

gig: hammond sk-1 73, neo vent, nord stage 2 76, ancona 34 accordion, cps space station v3

home: steinway m, 1950 hammond c2

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The main board may be mounted to the top panel. It might be easier/better to see if you can take the bottom off. The keybed may be mounted to the bottom but everything else to the top. That was how the XK-1 was accessed to replace the backup battery.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The top panel is easy to take off. I saw a bug crawl into the keyboard and I went looking for it. The screws on the top come out, and one screw on the bottom just to the left of center screws into a support attached to the inside of the top panel. Remove it and it lifts right off, and replaces easily. Side panels remove easily, too. It lets you do a good visual inspection. Blow it out with canned air while you have it open.
Hammond SK1, Casio PX5s, Motif ES rack, Kawai MP5, Kawai ESS110, Yamaha S03, iPad, and a bunch of stuff in the closet.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be very careful in using "canned air" inside - two reasons: first reason is possible static charge from spraying it damaging ultra-miniature solid-state components. Second reason is that excessive air pressure can break loose solder connections to these miniature components.

I serviced musical electronics for over 30 years. Also good not to be touching components on the circuit boards without proper grounding methods.

 

Howard Grand|Hamm SK1-73|Kurz PC2|PC2X|PC3|PC3X|PC361; QSC K10's

HP DAW|Epi Les Paul & LP 5-str bass|iPad mini2

"Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen."

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also make sure to hold the can right side up so you don't accidentally squirt propellant onto the electronics.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The top panel is easy to take off. I saw a bug crawl into the keyboard and I went looking for it. The screws on the top come out, and one screw on the bottom just to the left of center screws into a support attached to the inside of the top panel. Remove it and it lifts right off, and replaces easily. Side panels remove easily, too. It lets you do a good visual inspection. Blow it out with canned air while you have it open.

 

do you have to remove the knobs on top for the top panel to lift and come off of the rest of the board? if so, how? thnks!!

gig: hammond sk-1 73, neo vent, nord stage 2 76, ancona 34 accordion, cps space station v3

home: steinway m, 1950 hammond c2

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have played over 225 gigs since July 2011 with my SK1. I do have a few complaints about it (unpleasant/not-slow-enough fast rotary sim; external power pack with delicate power plug-in set-up; not enough program pre-sets; two-step, indirect, cumbersome way to change the rotary sim parameters live-on-the-fly), but no issues to date with its durability. It just needs to be treated like what it is---a mostly plastic, lightweight digital organ. I don't even use a hardcase. Just a Gator softcase.

KB: Hammond SK1

Bass KB: Yamaha MX49

KB Amps: CPS SS3, linked to TurboSound IP300

Bass KB amp: Fender Rumble 500 combo

 

 

www.mikemickxer.com

www.reverbnation.com/mikemickxer

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...