picker Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 ...and players who'd like to go fretless, but don't want to sink a lot of money into finding out if it's for them; Check this out... For $18, you just about can't go wrong... Always remember that you�re unique. Just like everyone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitefang Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Uh, I think it's intended for you to cut your own fret slots and install the frets. Whitefang I started out with NOTHING...and I still have most of it left! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harvey Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Uh, I think it's intended for you to cut your own fret slots and install the frets. Whitefang Maybe...but you don't have to Guitar Speak Podcast www.guitarspeakpodcast.libsyn.com https://www.facebook.com/guitarspeakpodcast www.itunes.apple.com/au/podcast/guitar-speak-podcast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larryz Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 I would buy the $16 one with the frets in it and remove the frets. Then fill the lines in with colored epoxy and sand smooth. Then I would know where the notes are without having to guess so much... Take care, Larryz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picker Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Filling the fret slots with single ply guitar binding material works better, and is more visible. Glue 'em in with elmers or tightbond, trim the excess binding off and sand it smooth. Then you can epoxy the whole fretboard to protect the rosewood, and sand/buff it to a mirror finish. Always remember that you�re unique. Just like everyone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larryz Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Whatever products are used, I would have to see the fret-markers on a guitar before I would try one on for size...I would love to try playing a standup bass without the frets or markers, as I know I would have some fun with it. Take care, Larryz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caevan O’Shite Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Filling the fret slots with single ply guitar binding material works better, and is more visible. Glue 'em in with elmers or tightbond, trim the excess binding off and sand it smooth. Then you can epoxy the whole fretboard to protect the rosewood, and sand/buff it to a mirror finish. You could also use wood veneer strips- like maple- to fill in the slots... Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do? ~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~ _ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitefang Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 I wonder what that would SOUND like, however... Whitefang I started out with NOTHING...and I still have most of it left! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winston Psmith Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Never tried it myself, but I've had two luthier friends warn me that if you pull the fretwire, you want to replace it with a material that's pretty damned hard, to compensate for the loss of mass & material on the neck. Otherwise, the constant pressure from string tension can cause the filler to compress, leaving you with a nicely bowed neck. I recall one of them doing a de-fretting on a friend's bass, and using some heavy-duty synthetic for filler. It came out white, so the fret positions were still clearly defined. Oddly, I haven't seen a similar issue on guitars with scalloped fretboards, where it seems that the same principle would apply? IDK. "Monsters are real, and Ghosts are real too. They live inside us, and sometimes, they win." Stephen King http://www.novparolo.com https://thewinstonpsmithproject.bandcamp.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wraub Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Never tried it myself, but I've had two luthier friends warn me that if you pull the fretwire, you want to replace it with a material that's pretty damned hard, to compensate for the loss of mass & material on the neck. Otherwise, the constant pressure from string tension can cause the filler to compress, leaving you with a nicely bowed neck. I recall one of them doing a de-fretting on a friend's bass, and using some heavy-duty synthetic for filler. It came out white, so the fret positions were still clearly defined. This is absolutely correct. This is why wood putty, filler, etc. are not recommended for this. Not enough resistance to compression from string tension. Dan Erlewine's books say the same thing. When I did my fretless conversion, I used a maple veneer that had been treated with a hardener. Super rigid, hard to bend. Oddly, I haven't seen a similar issue on guitars with scalloped fretboards, where it seems that the same principle would apply? IDK. It can be a issue if too much wood is removed. I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane hugo Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Adrian Belew had one of guitars converted to fretless by having the frets filed down until only the fret tang remained. http://blip.fm/invite/WorkRelease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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