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Look what I got back


Steve Nathan

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I gave this to a friend several years ago, but he decided he didn't deserve it :crazy:

 

I will now try to remember how to post pictures :laugh:

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6583326787_e5d0502631.jpg

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6583326917_4e507234ec.jpg

Don't rush me. I'm playing as slowly as I can!

 

www.stevenathanmusic.com

https://apple.co/2EGpYXK

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Mid to late fifties I'd guess.

 

Clonk

 

 

It's that same old particle board you've seen before. It just looks odd in the 2nd picture because I had to extreme photoshop the levels so you could read the model & serial numbers.

 

I don't plan to use it on any records. My 200A sounds so amazing, I'd get run out of town if I showed up without it! :laugh:

Don't rush me. I'm playing as slowly as I can!

 

www.stevenathanmusic.com

https://apple.co/2EGpYXK

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I bought a brand new model 120 in 1961...so Steve's model 112 has got to be 50s'. My Wurlie had the volume and vibrato controls on the front....I think Steve's model has those on the left side panel as I don't see them in the pic. My 120 also had an input jack on the back for plugging in one of those old RCA 45 rpm record players and also an input for the optional Wurlie battery pack. I gigged over a 100 road dates a year for four years with the piano and never had one problem with it...not even a broken reed. I ran it thru a Magnatone Amp with the built-in Stereo Vibrato system and 2 12" speakers. Great sound.
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A question for the keyboard techs among us. I'm told that this is not nearly as easy to work on as a 200 or even a 140. It all works (notes all play, amp comes on, etc), but could use some TLC (regulation, adjustments, maybe some new caps here and there). Darrel Combs tweaked it for me many years ago, but he passed away a few years ago and no one has filled the void. At the time he told me it was the oldest Wurly he'd ever worked on. I would send it to Morelock Organ in Mississippi, but as Janice will tell you, "Daddy's getting a little too old for that". If I end up selling this thing, it may make more sense to sell it as is to either a collector of some sort, or someone with the tools and skills to make it perfect.

Have any of you worked on these? I'm reasonably intelligent. If I buy a tool kit and a DVD from Vintage Vibe will I regret it?

Also, is there a way to tell age from the serial# or anything on the inside?

Don't rush me. I'm playing as slowly as I can!

 

www.stevenathanmusic.com

https://apple.co/2EGpYXK

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It has been a long time since I worked on a Wurly (I was a music electronic tech for over 25 years, ending in the mid 90's), but the best I remember they all functioned in about the same way. However, it was easier to get to stuff on some of them.

 

CAUTION: May have been all of them, but I remember especially with the older ones, there was a significant DC voltage that was easy to short out or get shocked with when working on the reeds. I'm talking something above 100 volts, about 150 or 200 best I remember.

 

Tuning is done by adding lead to the end to drop the pitch, then filing it away a little at a time to raise the pitch. This separate on each reed. It was never one of my favorite jobs, both because of the voltage, the difficulty of filing in the confined space (or else remove the reed each time, which also is a PITA).

 

The action meachanism is similar to that of an acoustic piano.

 

Depends on your mechanical ability, and your ability to make more money in the time it takes to do the work playing, and farming out the work to someone else.

 

Howard Grand|Hamm SK1-73|Kurz PC2|PC2X|PC3|PC3X|PC361; QSC K10's

HP DAW|Epi Les Paul & LP 5-str bass|iPad mini2

"Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen."

Jim

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