MuzikTeechur Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I've been using the XK3c for a while now and really enjoy it. My two issues with it are that it's heavy (not too heavy to lift, but it weighs a lot for a non-weighted keyboard), and that the wood is getting nicked/scratched. Does anyone know of replacement panels for the wooden parts on an XK-3c? It would be nice to take those wooden panels off and store them someplace safe, and replace them with some nice aluminum parts that would reduce the weight and take the normal bumps and scrapes of life on the road. I haven't been inside my XK-3c, so I don't know for sure how it would work, but I'm hoping they're just panels and nothing crucial to the design. We have a CNC machine at the school where I teach, and I could probably get one of my students to model the panels on CAD/CAM, then pay for some aluminum to have it machined. But if someone else has done this I don't see the need to reinvent the wheel. Or, maybe this is how I make some spare cash on the side... Muzikteechur is Lonnie, in Kittery, Maine. HS music teacher: Concert Band, Marching Band, Jazz Band, Chorus, Music Theory, AP Music Theory, History of Rock, Musical Theatre, Piano, Guitar, Drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMcS Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 There is a PDF in the XK-3 Yahoo Group's files section that covers removing and replacing the end panels: http://tinyurl.com/XK-3YahooGroup The replacement panels were ordered from Hammond. It probably wouldn't be difficult to make replacements out of wood or aluminum. There is a PDF for the XK-3 also. Although the process is similar it isn't the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuzikTeechur Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Hey, thanks for that link - I should have thought that there would be a Yahoo group for the XK3/3c. Lots of good information there. Muzikteechur is Lonnie, in Kittery, Maine. HS music teacher: Concert Band, Marching Band, Jazz Band, Chorus, Music Theory, AP Music Theory, History of Rock, Musical Theatre, Piano, Guitar, Drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMcS Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I forgot that there is also a link (in the links section) to a video that shows replacing the end blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Force Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Steve Force, Durham, North Carolina -------- My Professional Websites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITGITC Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Aesthetics be dammed! And do you wear your wife-beater shirt when you perform, Steve? "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Force Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Aesthetics be dammed! And do you wear your wife-beater shirt when you perform, Steve? I perform best in the nude. But that is not important right now. Steve Force, Durham, North Carolina -------- My Professional Websites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITGITC Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Aesthetics be dammed! And do you wear your wife-beater shirt when you perform, Steve? I perform best in the nude. But that is not important right now. BWAHAHahahahahahahahaha!! Come visit your friends in the South, Steve. First beer's on me! Tom PS Wear pants. "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewImprov Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Aesthetics be dammed! And do you wear your wife-beater shirt when you perform, Steve? I perform best in the nude. But that is not important right now. With gaffer tape on the most protruding bits? Turn up the speaker Hop, flop, squawk It's a keeper -Captain Beefheart, Ice Cream for Crow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Force Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 FWIW I put gaffer tape on the most protruding points of the endblocks and this has helped minimize wood dings. Aesthetics be dammed! And do you wear your wife-beater shirt when you perform, Steve? I perform best in the nude. But that is not important right now. With gaffer tape on the most protruding bits? Steve Force, Durham, North Carolina -------- My Professional Websites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhodaway10 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I thought of changing the wood sides to a lighter material. However, I don't have the machining skills. Would you replace the top and back too? www.brianho.net http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/brianho www.youtube.com/brianhojazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuzikTeechur Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 I believe the back is already metal, so no weight or durability savings there. Also, stuff is connected to it. The top and chin (cheek) blocks are what I would be most concerned with. I don't have the machining skills, either, which is why I would put it in the capable hands of the shop teacher at my school! Muzikteechur is Lonnie, in Kittery, Maine. HS music teacher: Concert Band, Marching Band, Jazz Band, Chorus, Music Theory, AP Music Theory, History of Rock, Musical Theatre, Piano, Guitar, Drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhodaway10 Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Cool - keep me posted!! I wonder how much the two sides and top weigh. Do you use the lower manual too? The holes on the bottom of the sides actually help to latch it into the LM so it doesn't slide around. www.brianho.net http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/brianho www.youtube.com/brianhojazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 I've replaced end cheeks on a few keyboards with exotic wood. I put bolivian rosewood on my S90 Classic (still have it) and burled walnut on the RD700GX (in Joe Muscara's rig). I took off the end blocks and gave them to my craftsman friend to make them. In each case, he made the new end pieces a bit thinner and they look awesome. But it was more for aesthetics than to save weight. If you're looking to save weight, burningbusch (aka Bill) on this forum did a really cool project on his S90 Classic that is posted somewhere here with pics. He replaced the end blocks and the steel in front of the keyboard with some type of black PVC plastic. I think he shaved off about 5 lbs. I remember seeing many years ago an XK-2 on eBay where the owner had completely replaced all the particle board with walnut and it looked awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewImprov Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 I have a woodworder friend who owes me a favor, and I'm commissioning him to replace the end cheeks and the top panel of my XK-1. The only problem has been finding enough time between gigs to let him take it apart. We've also talked about making a custom lower keyboard that matches. Turn up the speaker Hop, flop, squawk It's a keeper -Captain Beefheart, Ice Cream for Crow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuzikTeechur Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 Cool - keep me posted!! I wonder how much the two sides and top weigh. Do you use the lower manual too? The holes on the bottom of the sides actually help to latch it into the LM so it doesn't slide around. I don't think I'm going to save a lot of weight - maybe a pound or two IF I go with lighter material. I'm mostly concerned with it getting dinged up. Of course, if I go with some exotic wood, then I'll be even MORE concerned with it getting dinged up... I don't own the lower manual. When necessary I MIDI my Kurz into the Hammond on the lower manual channel and use that as the LM. If it weren't so damn expensive I'd buy the Hammond LM (the pro version, not the ornate one). I spoke with the shop teacher and he said that, if he had the original panels in hand, he could make them out of anything I wanted. I think polished billet aluminum would be cool... Muzikteechur is Lonnie, in Kittery, Maine. HS music teacher: Concert Band, Marching Band, Jazz Band, Chorus, Music Theory, AP Music Theory, History of Rock, Musical Theatre, Piano, Guitar, Drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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