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Dead Key on RD700


Joe P

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It doesn't send MIDI either if that means anything.

 

I've looked at videos and I'm pretty handy so opening it up and doing mechanical things like replacing hammers and keys is no big deal.

 

The thing that worries me is that it seemed to happen overnight when the unit was off and the action feels and sounds exactly the same as all the other keys. Just worried it might be something with the electrics.

 

Comments?

 

Regards,

Joe

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Nah, the feel doesn't change at all when the sensors or whatever get dirty. I'd bet you just have to clean 'em much like discussed elsewhere here.

"I'm so crazy, I don't know this is impossible! Hoo hoo!" - Daffy Duck

 

"The good news is that once you start piano you never have to worry about getting laid again. More time to practice!" - MOI

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Sorry about this, Joe. Never had a dead note--just the cracked action "cage." It's not hard to open, and maybe compressed air will solve the problem. Good luck.

 

K.

9 Moog things, 3 Roland things, 2 Hammond things and a computer with stuff on it

 

 

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Sorry about this, Joe. Never had a dead note--just the cracked action "cage." It's not hard to open, and maybe compressed air will solve the problem. Good luck.

 

K.

 

No worries, Ken, I still love this instrument. :) I'm sure it will be an easy fix. I have an important gig coming up that I have to prepare for, but luckily it is an all-Hammond gig. After that, I'll dig into it and report back.

Regards,

Joe

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Well I took the unit apart and narrowed the problem down to the rubber switch on the circuit board - the part the hammer contacts. Just got off the phone with Roland and they sold me a set of 12 for five bucks - not bad!

 

This is all cool but I can't figure out how to get the "cage" that Ken mentioned off. Anybody have any experience with this?

 

Regards,

Joe

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Well I am happy to report that my beloved RD700 is back in action. :thu: I was able to replace the rubber switches on the action circuit board with the help of my friend Frank the Mechanic.

 

We found it is not necessary to remove the trays/cages, the entire assembly can be inverted and the 3-segment circuit board can be accessed. Replacing the rubber switches onto the board can be done manually without tools and they are self-locating. The switches have these little graphite-like contacts that wear, the new ones were visibly thicker than the old ones. They are similar to those shown here - the gray ovals with circular depressions - this is what the hammer contacts and the wearing discs are underneath the rubber boot:

 

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff138/mbguess/u-20%20repair/IMG_2442.jpg

 

This all good, because now I can execute any mechanical repair this board will ever need! :rawk:

 

Regards,

Joe

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