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Cheap, small bass cab


BluMunk

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I'm a pretty rudimentary bass player, but play out on occasion, usually in small venues and/or low volume situations.

 

I was fortunate to nab a shuttle 6.0 a few months back at an insane cheap price off of craigslist, and now need a cab for it. I'd love to spend under 500 dollars, used is a-ok, maybe a 1x12 or 2x10, no bigger. Something I can carry one-handed.

 

Any suggestions? Anyone have something for sale? :)

 

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I have one of these:

 

http://www.avatarspeakers.com/sB112.htm

 

Highly recommended. The Delta LF equipped model is a 500w cab, gets pretty loud, and, as the kids say, it really kicks out the jams. This is what I have.

 

They also have a Neo equipped model, it's only 250w, but is significantly lighter. Have not heard or played this one, but it gets good reviews as well.

 

 

Prices start at $289 + $45 for shipping. Give em a call with questions, Dave usually answers the phone, and as the owner of Avatar, really knows the product. Seems like a nice guy, as well.

 

I am not affiliated with this company, I just really like their stuff.

 

Peace,

 

wraub

 

I'm a lot more like I am now than I was when I got here.

 

 

 

 

 

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No, Calliope closed, sadly.

 

They sold and turned into 'Burlington Guitar and Amp,' for a year or two, and then closed for good some time this past spring. Too bad. Now Advance Music (good shop, depending on who you get helping you) is the only game within 45 minutes.

 

 

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Well doesn't that just suck? That place was awesome in the 90's!

 

If you're interested in getting on the ferry into New York, check out The Music Oasis in Churubusco. I used to play in a band with one of the guys there. They stock Ampeg, Fender, SWR and Marshall bass amps. And since they're a Fender dealer they can definitely get Genz Benz for you.

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"My concern is, and I have to, uh, check with my accountant, that this might bump me into a higher, uh, tax..."

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Second wraub on the Avatar post. Don't think the stuff cheap, but rather affordable. Its quality gear, and made in USA. You don't get to check it out at GC before you buy but you'd have to look hard to find any dirt on Avatar. I've gigged that brand hard for many years. Under 500 new and carry a 112 or 210 in one hand.

 

Congrats on the shuttle6. My rack weighs 10 times that. And I load it in and out every weekend. Nice score for you.

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You might consider used - I'm comfortable buying from "name" stores. BassNW has an SWR Goliath Jr 2x10. Probably not the sound I would want, but you can find them around and test it with your head before pulling the trigger. You may find other used gems in the bass stores like bass central, perfect bass, or low end. Or take a day and drive to a GC or Sam Ash or Daddy's to see what you might find. Daddy's (I think) keeps their used inventory up to date on-line.

 

My cousin bought the Shuttle 6 amp and 12 and loves it.

Best of luck!

Tom

www.stoneflyrocks.com

Acoustic Color

 

Be practical as well as generous in your ideals. Keep your eyes on the stars and keep your feet on the ground. - Theodore Roosevelt

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I got an empty Sound Re-enforcement cab & (after consultation with Alex Claber - see Greenboy) I put an Eminence 3015 in it.

 

Although the cab is pretty near the bottom end of where the 3015 works, work it does.

 

I run it solo with an Ashdown (UK built) MAG400 (485W @ 4 Ohms) & it gives me roughly 300W into 8 Ohms.

 

My second cab is a much bigger custom-build for an Eminence 2515 and both together give me 750W handling & the 4 Ohm power of the MAG.

 

Good Enough.

 

But the small cab is a one-hand lift & great for small gigs.

 

G.

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the World will know Peace": Jimi Hendrix

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=738517&content=music

The Geoff - blame Caevan!!!

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Small venues? Check out the Gallien-Krueger 2x10. You don't state what your genre is, so I'm assuming you don't come to play with a 5'er or playing in drop D where you would need a 15.

 

Nope, nothing like that. I play it in:

 

A rock cover band (when I sub for our actual bass player). We're kind of loud, but that's "loud for a 25x50 foot bar." The rest of the gear in the band is a 60W Fender Deville (turned up to 2 or 3, heh), a smaller Fender amp I can't think of, and when I'm playing keys, I use a Mackie SM450.

 

And, I play in orchestra pits occasionally for musicals. For that environment, quieter is always better.

 

I play a Squier VM Jaguar and occasionally an old Vantage bass with aftermarket active pickups in it.

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far, all. The Avatar piques my interest, as does the GK.

 

I have a question about Wattage. Am I right in understanding that plugging my amp (Shuttle 6.0) into one 8ohm cab will draw a max of 375W (according to the Genz website), and plugging a second 8ohm cab in changes the total resistance to 4ohms and thus the two cabs together draw up to 600W?

 

How do I want to match power handling of the cabs to the amp? Most of the Neo 1x12s I've looked at have a wattage below 375. Should I avoid anything with a power rating lower than the max output of the amp?

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Depends on how smart you are. If you are running 600 Watts (and I'm assuming that's peak), you'll overdrive your cab. You'll also blow everyone out the back of the bar.

 

This only works if you are plugging the cabs in parallel (two inputs into the back of the head, usually). If you are plugging the input of one cab into the output of the other, you are playing in series. That would make you 16 ohms and half the wattage of the amp.

 

Just don't run the pregain or gain above a quater, you should be ok.

 

Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn

 

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........This only works if you are plugging the cabs in parallel (two inputs into the back of the head, usually). If you are plugging the input of one cab into the output of the other, you are playing in series........

 

I thought that nearly all cabs that had two jacks in the back were wired so that the additional cab would be in parallel. Maybe I'm wrong.

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I have a question about Wattage. Am I right in understanding that plugging my amp (Shuttle 6.0) into one 8ohm cab will draw a max of 375W (according to the Genz website), and plugging a second 8ohm cab in changes the total resistance to 4ohms and thus the two cabs together draw up to 600W?

 

How do I want to match power handling of the cabs to the amp? Most of the Neo 1x12s I've looked at have a wattage below 375. Should I avoid anything with a power rating lower than the max output of the amp?

 

I had a Shuttle 6 for a while & your supposition above is correct.

 

As for the 'less than 375W' thing, you just need to use your ears. I suspect most power-handling ratings are conservative, and a speaker will stsart to make funny noises before it reaches its ultimate limit. Take heed of the warnings & cut back.

 

There are many who use 1000W power amps with 500W of speaker.

 

G.

"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the World will know Peace": Jimi Hendrix

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=738517&content=music

The Geoff - blame Caevan!!!

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........This only works if you are plugging the cabs in parallel (two inputs into the back of the head, usually). If you are plugging the input of one cab into the output of the other, you are playing in series........

 

I thought that nearly all cabs that had two jacks in the back were wired so that the additional cab would be in parallel. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

Maybe I'm wrong. The only multiple cab set I own is a match G/K stack. I've only got one input to each cab and two from the head. Since I have two wattage ratings, I figured parallel.

 

Now it makes me wonder how the Kustom monitors are wired. Need to look into that.

 

Admittedly, live sound is not my strong point.

 

Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn

 

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How do I want to match power handling of the cabs to the amp? Most of the Neo 1x12s I've looked at have a wattage below 375. Should I avoid anything with a power rating lower than the max output of the amp?

 

I'm sure robb. will chime in with any needed corrections, but here are my thoughts on this subject:

 

The wattage ratings of amps and speakers are pretty much meaningless.

Most of the drivers used in bass speaker cabinets will reach their mechanical limits long before they reach their thermal limits (which is what the published "watts rating" is based on).

Most amps are capable of producing a LOT more power than their published specs.

 

An amp may be rated to produce a certain amount of power, but that doesn't mean it's constantly producing that much power. Because of the percussive nature of our instrument there is a very strong power demand during the attack phase of a note, followed by much lower demand during the sustain phase, then a pause (no demand) between notes. I think most of us would be amazed at how little "average power" we're actually using.

This fluctuation between high and low power demand gives drivers time to cool down a bit between bursts, allowing us to use a lot more power (for clean headroom on the attack phase) than the drivers are "rated" for.

 

Of course, cranking an amp to its max or using compression and/or distortion will raise the average signal level and all bets are off.

 

Statements such as "You'll be safe as long as you don't turn up beyond (a certain point) on your amp" are false. There are 10 knobs and switches on my GK amp that effect the signal level before it reaches the master volume knob. The 6 knobs on my bass and any effects pedals I'm using will also effect the signal level. Add right hand technique into the equation and I'm sure I could push my amp to its maximum output with the master volume set barely above its minimum. Conversely, I could set the master to max, EQ out all the low frequencies, play with a very light touch, etc. and my amp will put out less than 50 watts.

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Another +1 for Avatar. I have a 1x12 (non-Neo) that has been great.

 

A couple of months ago, the speaker stopped working as a result of some very unusual circumstances. I emailed Dave at Avatar and he got back to me within a day with info to fix the problem (a wire had been knocked loose). Good customer service.

"Of all the world's bassists, I'm one of them!" - Lug
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........This only works if you are plugging the cabs in parallel (two inputs into the back of the head, usually). If you are plugging the input of one cab into the output of the other, you are playing in series........

 

I thought that nearly all cabs that had two jacks in the back were wired so that the additional cab would be in parallel. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

You are absolutely right. Unless designed for special use they are wired parallel, as are amp outputs that have two output jacks (unless they have two power amps on board, like bi-amped rigs, which pretty rare).

 

I've written a little FAQ that may help: OHMS & IMPEDANCE from the OUTPUT (speaker) perspective

 

See the section "Series and Parallel, what the hell?!?"

 

 

1000 Upright Bass Links, Luthier Directory, Teacher Directory - http://www.gollihurmusic.com/links.cfm

 

[highlight] - Life is too short for bad tone - [/highlight]

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...they are wired parallel, as are amp outputs that have two output jacks (unless they have two power amps on board, like bi-amped rigs, which pretty rare)...

Another rare exception is the series-wired output jacks on late 70s MusicMan HD amps.

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