ITGITC Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Guys, I'm putting my K2000 back together after sending the boards to Duane Garvin for repair. The screws that hold the boards inside the case are not tightening. I'm unsure what the material is that the case was molded from. It's some type of composite - but I don't know how to identify it. Nevertheless, I've tried inserting the ends of plastic ties, the end of rubber bands, strips of paper, and strips of plastic bags into the holes for the screws to have something to grip. No luck with that. I don't want to super-glue the screws for fear that I could never get them back out. I am wondering if there is a wood-filler type product that I could fill in the holes & then drill them out. Would this method be succcessful - and with what filler material? Does anyone here have experience with this? Thank you, Tom Is There Gas in the Car? "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe P Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Tom,Is there a chance you could use a small dry-wall anchor? The kind you tap in and then screw into...Regards,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITGITC Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Tom, Is there a chance you could use a small dry-wall anchor? The kind you tap in and then screw into... Regards, Joe Excellent idea, Joe. I'm dealing with small screws. I think they're too small for a drywall anchor. But I like the way you think! Thank you Joe. I hope you are doing well. Tom "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfD Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Tom, Is there a chance you could use a small dry-wall anchor? The kind you tap in and then screw into... Regards, Joe Good call. I've been able to get away with using a slightly wider but shorter screw. Of course, be careful enough to fasten without the screw sticking up and do not split/break the material. DIY is so much fun. PD "The greatest thing you'll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return."--E. Ahbez "Nature Boy" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoodyBluesKeys Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Loctite (used in the auto industry and manufacturing) makes a number of different products. Some are like permanent, but some are designed to allow removal and re-use. Wood filler MIGHT work for the issue, but just filling and drilling still leaves out the fact that some type of thread probably has to be in the holes for the mount to be successful (I've had my 2000VP apart, but don't remember if the circuit board was held in place by screws or bolts - makes a difference.) Howard Grand|Hamm SK1-73|Kurz PC2|PC2X|PC3|PC3X|PC361; QSC K10's HP DAW|Epi Les Paul & LP 5-str bass|iPad mini2 "Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen." Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe P Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Tom,Thanks for the well wishes. I'm not sure how small these things go, but it might be worth a look: Threaded Insert Regards,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JpScoey Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 'Strange coinsidence, that... I had a K2000 & half of the screws fell out of that too. As for re-fixing them, you could try an epoxy/resin in the screw holes - it sets like concrete, but is pliable when half-set. It would provide a firm base for the screws to go back into. John. some stuff on myspace Nord: StageEX-88, Electro2-73, Hammond: XK-1, Yamaha: XS7 Korg: M3-73 EXpanded, M50-88, X50, Roland: Juno D, Kurzweil: K2000vp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VLH Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Provided these are screws and not bolts, here are two options:1. Use Bondo (the stuff for auto repairs). After it sets up, drill a new hole and rethread the screw. 2. If there is space, buy a 1/4 inch dowel and 1/4 inch drill bit. Drill out the space and epoxy in a 1/4 inch dowel. When set, drill a new hole. I'd start with #1 above, because if it doesn't work you can still move to #2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillWelcome Home Studios Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Provided these are screws and not bolts, here are two options: 1. Use Bondo (the stuff for auto repairs). After it sets up, drill a new hole and rethread the screw. 2. If there is space, buy a 1/4 inch dowel and 1/4 inch drill bit. Drill out the space and epoxy in a 1/4 inch dowel. When set, drill a new hole. I'd start with #1 above, because if it doesn't work you can still move to #2. Wood filler won't work for shit in that scenario. Bondo or some other auto body repair product would be better. But then you've got sanding and painting to do. They make a fiberglas boat repair kit that I found to be perfect for repairing some fancy plastic piece on my wifes pottery wheel. But this included laying in a piece of chopped glass mat (came with the kit), which you might need to do if the area is really hacked up now. The repair liquid was a clear material. IF the case is made from some plastic composite material, you could probably just fill the holes with this liquid, which will likely bond to it very well, then re-drill the holes. I think that the kit cost me about $15, and contains enough material to do a LOT of repair work.. You don't want to use a wooden dowel rod, because then you are screwing into end grain, which will not hold a screw. Drilling out a plug and inserting a piece of wood is a great way to do the repair in a wood or wood-like material, but you want to either use a chisel and a square piece of lumber turned correctly so as not to expose the end grain, or you use a drill and the appropriately sized plug cutter, and drill out the hole, then cut a plug from a scrap piece of lumber.... again, not using the end grain. "I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot." Steve Martin Show business: we're all here because we're not all there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITGITC Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 These are GREAT ideas! Thank you all. Tom "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorgatron Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 all you guys are screwy.take a tip from the world of do-it-yourself guitar repair; take a toothpick,smear some Elmer's glue on it,jam it into the stripped out hole,break it off flush with the surface,trim with exacto knife if needed.use the other end of the same toothpick if it's really stripped out.many guitars (some of them very expensive) have had their strap pin screwholes repaired this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Force Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Use a toothpick without Elmer's glue. Should work like a champ. Steve Force, Durham, North Carolina -------- My Professional Websites Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ITGITC Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 The toothpick is a good idea too! I am really glad I asked - this was KILLING ME last night. (Have you ever had a REALLY bad day, then tried to work on tiny, fragile electronics?) Don't do it. What is initially bad, turns into a monster. Everyone in the family had to vacate the area. It wasn't a happy time. But now I can go back, add one of these fixes, and get the K2000 working again - which will please me greatly since otherwise I would have to carry the PC2X to the gig/rehearsal/jam. Again - thanks. You guys remain awesome - although somewhat screwy. "Music expresses that which cannot be put into words and that which cannot remain silent." - Victor Hugo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillWelcome Home Studios Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 all you guys are screwy. take a tip from the world of do-it-yourself guitar repair; take a toothpick,smear some Elmer's glue on it,jam it into the stripped out hole,break it off flush with the surface,trim with exacto knife if needed. use the other end of the same toothpick if it's really stripped out. many guitars (some of them very expensive) have had their strap pin screwholes repaired this way. "I've tried inserting the ends of plastic ties, the end of rubber bands, strips of paper, and strips of plastic bags into the holes for the screws to have something to grip. No luck with that." If that stuff didn't work, I figured neither would a toothpick. Personally, I've used the toothpick, with or without glue, many times in simple 'it'll do' woodworking repair. It's a method. I've also mixed sawdust with glue and filled the holes with that. On a composite material I'd likely go for filling the holes with resin, but then I already have the repair kit, and I do tend to take pride in my work. "I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot." Steve Martin Show business: we're all here because we're not all there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKeys Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Bondo Auto body puddy but you would fille the hole and then maybe have to predrill for the screws. Jimmy Those are my principles, and if you don't like them... well, I have others. Groucho NEW BAND CHECK THEM OUT www.steveowensandsummertime.com www.jimmyweaver.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Nathan Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Go to Home Depot and buy a can of Minwax 2 part wood filler (the kind in the yellow can, where you mix a little bit of hardener from a tube into a bit more of the filler). Follow the directions for the proportions, but it's easy. Force it into the holes. In 10-15 minutes, you can scrape any excess off with a putty knife or a blade. When it's dry, it is solid as a rock and you can drill and screw into it like original wood. If you clean it off before it hardens, there's no sanding. Don't rush me. I'm playing as slowly as I can! http://www.stevenathanmusic.com/stevenathanmusic.com/HOME.html https://apple.co/2EGpYXK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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