is it worth my trouble to build a 1x12 cab?

[rebelishus]

i roll projects around in my mind. been thinking of building a 1x12 cab. have a rocktron 1x12 (ported); it seems to be overly chimey with the three small tube amps that i drive it with, hence the 'build a cab' idea.

 

i would like to have a cab with a more gritty, blues tone. looking for speaker reccys, and ideas on closed/open/ported. materials don't seem to be a problem, but design is the issue for me.

 

mods, if i have this in the wrong place, feel free to move; please advise where by email. thanks! reb

[Crazy Fingers]

Your best bet is to copy the dimensions and speaker types of a cabinet that you like. You'll need some basic woodworking skills to build a sturdy cabinet as well as access to some woodworking tools (table saw, clamps). Working with a sheet 3/4" plywood isn't always easy. Make sure you use solid joinery (finger joints are very strong but rabets and screws will work too). You can also get fancy and build it out of some nice figured wood like tiger maple or cherry! Have fun and watch your fingers when working with power tools!

[BillWelcome Home Studios]

No it is not worth your time. Better cabs show up on ebay and craigslist all the time. There is a 2x12 Avatar right now on our craigslist for under $150.

 

Most speaker manufacturers used to supply various cabinet designs based around specific speakers that they made, to entice people to buy the speakers. I don't know if they still do this or not. You used to be able to call or write, and they'd send out a package of prints. Probably a lot of this info is available on the internet today again, I don't know.

 

To me, a gritty blues tone comes from the pickups, pick, and string attack, preamp, amp, maybe effects. Gritty in particular does not sound like a familiar cabinet description to me, although some speaker manufacturers may claim it for their speakers.

 

Open backed speaker cabs sound one way, closed another. Ported are different from that, and the new hybrid cabinets (sort of a port but not really) from companies like THD and Avatar seek to get the best of both the open and closed back designs. I have a THD, and I think that they did pretty well.

 

 

But when actually DESIGNING a cabinet (rather than just tossing some lumber, glue, and nails into a pile roughly shaped like a box...) you need to have access to measurement tools and an understanding of how to use them. The free air resonance of a speaker is a critical number when it comes to making a cabinet to hold that speaker. And knowing how to diddle the 'perfect' design to accent or reduce certain frequency bands, how to control the bandwidth, how to balance efficiency against size and still come out a winner.

 

Can you copy a cab design from some other company, grab a same-sized speaker and use that? Sure you can. What will the outcome be? Nobody knows.

 

I can't say that too many guitar people use scientific principles to design their cabinets. The Marshall cab certainly is not designed from any criteria other than to make a big-assed cabinet that held a lot of speakers for Pete Townsend. From a scientific standpoint, that box is a disaster tonally. But we love it.

 

So, assuming that you own all the tools needed to cut out the box, cut circles, etc etc, the lumber will cost you, and your time is worth something. Are you doing to paint it or cover it with Tolex or rat fur (carpet)? What about grille cloth? Handles? Corners? Feet or wheels? And then the time that you spend figuring all this out, is that free or could you be out somewhere making enough money to buy a really good cabinet?

 

in other words, as a project for someone who is bored or interested in cabinet construction, it could be fun. But worth your time? No. You'd be re-inventing the wheel, so to speak.

[Larryz]

Having a 1x12 (or even a 2x12) speaker cab and your custom piggy back amp is a great way to balance the load for carrying your equipment to small venues weightwise...before buiding a cab as a labor of love, you might try your amp out at GC or another guitar shop, as they may have some cabs already made up for you...

 

If you have the interest and the tools and want to build your own, then go for it...I've always used a combo amp and the open back speaker cabs are necessary when running tubes for heat escape consideration (60 watt output), but I would consider the closed back for better sound if using a piggy back set up...

[BillWelcome Home Studios]

...I've always used a combo amp and the open back speaker cabs are necessary when running tubes for heat escape consideration ...

 

If you are building a combo amp enclosure from scratch, nothing wrong with making a sealed speaker section within the box with an open back section for the amp part.

 

[desertbluesman]

I bought a couple of 1-12 cabinets from S&S cabs on e-bay. I paid 99 bucks a piece for them and they work well. S&S changed their name to something else however.

[Larryz]

...I've always used a combo amp and the open back speaker cabs are necessary when running tubes for heat escape consideration ...

 

If you are building a combo amp enclosure from scratch, nothing wrong with making a sealed speaker section within the box with an open back section for the amp part.

 

+1 What do you think Bill, does a closed back speaker cab sound better? (same speakers, same cabs, one closed, one open)

[BillWelcome Home Studios]

+1 What do you think Bill, does a closed back speaker cab sound better? (same speakers, same cabs, one closed, one open)

 

I've moved to the THD hybrid 2x12 cabinet. It has a little of the thunk of a closed back, but some of the open backed sound, too. Makes me very happy.

 

As to open verses closed: Neither inherently sounds "better", just different. And depending upon the choice of speaker, you can damage a speaker that is improperly supported (not enough back pressure) though i have not seen anyone mention this in years and never on a guitar player thread. Another thing that a -properly- sized and built closed back ported cabinet can do it to extend the frequency range of the speaker and also improve delivery efficiency. An open backed cabinet for the most part just stops your speaker from falling to the floor, unless some thought has been put into cabinet volume and back pressure. (Not usually the case, one can tell just from the rear cabinet materials, none of which are thick enough for acoustical considerations as far as I know.)

 

There is a magazine for speaker and speaker cabinet fans, probably a few websites, too. Likely you'll get more up to date info at one of these places.

[russclan]

Hi Reb,

 

Have you considered just replacing your speaker in the Rocktron and/or making a different back panel (assuming it's removable)? You could use the existing panel as a template...

 

It will be a much cheaper "experiment" to start with, IMHO.

 

I don't know what your experience is, but I've been a woodworker for many years, with a shop full of very expensive tools...and I can honestly tell you that the cost advantage would have to be substantial before I would dive into a project like that. Not that the building part would be particularly difficult. It isn't, really, if you're handy. But you asked if it would be worth your time...only you can answer that, I think. Are you a "journey" or "destination" kind of guy? A little of both?

 

If you do decide to build, keep us posted.

 

Richard

[David McGrath]

I use 2x 75w solid state 1x12" combos and by adding a home built !x12" 8ohm extension cab to each amp,I have increased their output to 100w/110w with each amp now driving a 4 ohm load.

Both amps benefit from the increased headroom/volume/bottom end grunt of a celestion 100w driver in each extension cab.Use of recycled half inch pine from old dressing tables/writing desks really helps the tone as does fitting cabinet wheels.

 

I used the 1x12" combo's dimensions as a guide to cabinet size - i.e.deduct the amp's panel dimensions from the cabinet size,using a Fender style rear semi-open baffle.

 

Bracing is important,as is non-paint contact points for top,base,and sides.The dried-out,hardness of recycled timber adds resonance.Cabinet wheels for both the combos and extension cabs = Instant Tone Improvement..!!!

 

More than happy to assist with further info to Forum members.David McGrath

[Larryz]

Welcome aboard David...

[Mojo Bone]

The good news is that back pressure isn't anything anybody needs to worry about and hasn't been since the days of field-coil speakers and hide glue; modern adhesives are more than adequate to the task. The bad news is that cabinet design and speaker matching are as much art as science, so stellar results (or at least results that suit your needs) will likely be a matter of trial and (at least some) error. (and swapping out speakers is way easier than building cabs)

 

If the goal is to have a great sounding cab, rather than to learn about how cabs and speakers interact, I'd opine that it's really not worth your time, money and effort, unless you're really into woodworking and already have the tools and a burning desire to 'see for yourself'. If your desires are more tonal than investigatory, you're better off snagging a prefab cab from the fine folks at Weber VST (or someplace like it, if there be such a thing) and taste-driving a few different speakers. They can probably suggest a suitable speaker based on your input, as well.

 

On the other hand, If you intend to build something better than what you can typically buy, (dovetail joints, all solid/exotic woods, fancy finishes) DIY is the only route that won't break the bank, and in many cases, the design work has already been done, as there are a number of designers selling cab plans on these internets; Google is your friend.

[David McGrath]

Thankz for that Larryz.David McGrath.

[Magic Frank]

At the outset, knowing a speaker's specifications, i.e. free-air resonance, max excursion, Q, etc. are primarily for bass alignment. Low E on a guitar is over 80HZ so we have no deep bass anyway. That's why an open back can sound fine despite the attendant cancellation engendered in all open-back designs.

Next, manufacturers like Celestion will not make recommendations and there is no instruction sheet in the box telling you the proper cabinet specs so you're on your own anyway. I've built cabs that were sealed and in almost every case the speakers positively bloomed when I opened the back somewhat. If a speaker is designed for an open-backed cab, it usually will sound pretty bad in a sealed cab but one designed for a sealed cab might sound okay with an open back. That said, usually, most guitar speakers will sound good in an open back as most of us use combos and the manufacturers know this, so most of their designs are optimized for an open cab--to a degree. I usually have it around 1/3 to 1/2 open although I've seen plenty that were nearly completely open in the back. For reasons too complex to go into here, a Greenback might not work well in a single 12 sealed cab but will work quite well in a Marshall-style cab for 4 drivers. IT WILL SUCK IN A SINGLE-12 SEALED CAB. Bottom line: You must experiment. Open backs sound, uh, more open! If in doubt, start sealed and then open the back. Note that the EV-type of driver does indeed work better in a ported box but it's the exception. Yes, you can get the plans for a ported EV box on line. They sound great, weigh a ton and need a lot of power to break up--not so good for blues. You cannot make a ported box properly unless you know the Thiele and Small parameters and hardly anyone will help you with this. It's generally unnecessary anyway unless you play bass guitar.

 

As far as building one yourself, it's fun and satisfying but you need to decide your priorities. If you want super tight bottom, sharp impact and less coloration, use heavy plywood--not MDF--and make your joints properly as was recommended by someone else on this thread. However, for blues and especially light weight, use skimpy plywood--1/4 to 3/8ths, use 1/4 to 1/2 inch strips as braces and fastening points (along the edges) for each side and if you do it well at all, it'll be rigid enough and weigh nothing! Try to use 3/8ths minimum for the baffle. Use a Jensen Neo and the whole shebang will be less than ten pounds and still sound good. Stay away from the Celestion Vintage Neo; it sucks.

 

One good thing about rolling your own, is to build two identical cabs. That way, you can compare speakers--side-by-side--with a switcher and evaluate your choices. You can also use both cabs for loud gigs or just one for small venues or the studio. Watch your impedance though.

 

My personal favorite for single 12's would be a super lightweight cab (I'm 63 and have a bad back), with an open back and a great speaker. The cab is cheap to build so spend the dough on the speaker (driver). At the high-end, try the Celestion Gold. It's superb. Even a little better, if you love a clear midrange with great expression and tight deep bass (relatively speaking), would be the Jensen Jet Blackbird or whatever they call it. The Celestion is more dough but the Jensen is wonderful. On a budget? Use a $50 Jensen or Eminence. They sound great. If you're poor or love the Fender sound, get a used 12" Fender speaker for 25 bucks on eBay; they're quite good (made by Eminence). A $100 Celestion will have more bark, a rougher middle and be better if you use fuzz tones or heavy rock or metal. If you play cleanish blues or slightly overdriven tone stay with the American sounding speakers. I have no opinion on Webers having never evaluated them. I only comment on what I've heard myself. Kendrick speakers from my colleague and pal Gerald Weber are also very good and he'll be delighted to walk you through it. His prices are reasonable as well. The Weber Speaker guy (no relation to Gerald) has an excellent reputation for guiding people like you.

 

Finally, you can buy the wood and have it cut to size at the building center and cut your hole with a cheap sabre saw if you're on a tight budget or have no table saw. All your materials should be under $35.00 to $40.00 including a handle unless you buy some expensive tweed or trick tolex.

 

Hope this helps. If you need further guidance, or wish to read some of my published speaker reviews, email me. Remember, most of your tone comes from your technique so practice with that in mind.

Happy New Year to all..

 

Magic Frank the Gigologist

[Junior 1]

I wanted to build a 1x10 cab for my Valve Junior head. I was at the local GC and picked up a dead Epiphone Valve Special amp for $50, sold the tube remnants for the same $50, filled in the amp space with a piece of cherry wood, found a Epi logo on Ebay and instant Epi cab. It's loaded with a Jensen. I love it. Just a thought!

[Magic Frank]

That's perfect! Which Jensen? They're all good--even the cheap MOD series. Most would probably use the Special Design with the square magnet cover--P10. Even high-end boutique amps use these from time to time--cheap and sweet.

[Junior 1]

I have a Jensen Mod 50 in it. Sounds great in my practice space. I'm just a hobbyist and the Mod line has worked well for me. I put a Mod 8 in a Fender GDEC and it improved the sound greatly.

[Larryz]

I wanted to build a 1x10 cab for my Valve Junior head. I was at the local GC and picked up a dead Epiphone Valve Special amp for $50, sold the tube remnants for the same $50, filled in the amp space with a piece of cherry wood, found a Epi logo on Ebay and instant Epi cab. It's loaded with a Jensen. I love it. Just a thought!

 

That's what I call going green...making old stuff useful again...I have a small solid state Crate that took a dump and I just may do the same thing (the speaker is not that great in quality but it still sounds good)...and it's already got the logo on the front...

[Tennessee]

I'd be visiting pawn shops for leftover cabs. Usually they are loaded with them, can't get rid of them, and sell them cheap just to get the floor space back. I've seen 112 cabs with speaker for $50, handle/wheels and all, and 212's are not much more. Put in your speaker, make whatever changes you need to the back, and you already have a Tolex box with a handle in some cases. Take the time saved to learn that new riff you've been wanting to try.