Need some Amplifier advice

[Doug in Montana]

Sorry if this has been covered before. Currently I use a Kurzweil SP88 keyboard and an Oberheim OB3 drawbar midi organ unit powered through a Motion Sound Pro 3 and a Peavey 60 watt keyboard amp. This provides good organ and piano sounds, but I need more power--like 200 watts.

 

My question is...can I use the Motion Sound Pro 3T unit (it's about 40 watts) with any 200 watt keyboard amp, or will that be too out of balance? Would I have to go with the Motion sound KBR 3D for instance. I'm on a tight budget.

 

Any advice that helps is welcome. Thanks!!

 

Doug in Montana

[David Loving]

Use any amp. I use a pro3x with a 300 watt/ch power amp and speakers. You don't need to use a MS amp with it. any 200watt amp will work fine. a 60 wt peavy is not enough horsepower.

[bhodaway10]

use any amp w/ the prox3x.....think about the pro 145 though....

[Doug in Montana]

Thanks, Daviel. I really appreciate the advice. You may have just saved me a ton of $$. Why doesn't the 200 or 300 watt amp overpower the little pro-3???

 

Thanks again!!

 

DTE

[Mr. Nightime]

Thanks, Daviel. I really appreciate the advice. You may have just saved me a ton of $$. Why doesn't the 200 or 300 watt amp overpower the little pro-3???

 

Thanks again!!

 

DTE

 

It takes more power to run lows than it does highs, so the 40 watts should work fine. And like daviel said, any amp with enough power will work. In tight stage situations I'll use an old Peavey KB100, and still get a great organ sound.

 

I've got a Pro3TM, and I'll normally run the internal mike into the same stereo PA that the low sim goes into, then I'll balance the two. Prior to running the mike, the horn by itself held its own with the PA, at least until the volume levels I was playing took its toll, and the diaphram shredded.

 

If you find that the horn can't keep up without running wide open, try miking the horn like you would a Leslie.

 

 

[retrokeys]

Just a thought here, but I used to run a kurz sp76 and VK7 with a leslie 21 system. I still have the 21 and now use an xk3 and electro. The clone runs through top and bottom of the 21 system (where there is an actual horn and electronically created lower rotor that is routed to the bottom) and the bottom is basically a straight 200 watt amp, so the electro goes there. The whole rig is 350 watts and will make a guitar player pause. Despite complaints to the contrary, I have found that with the adjustable crossover and three band eq. the 21 bottom unit makes a good keyboard amp by itself with a bit of tweaking. It certainly does better than the Roland KC 500 I used to use which is now in the practice room. YMMV. Good luck

[smanzella]

Hello,

 

It is always better to drive speakers with amps that have more RMS rated watts than the speakers have for the simple reasons that;

 

1. Most speakers are designed to take a brief power spike almost twice their normal operating wattage.

 

2. Running an amplifier below its capabilities will yield cleaner output. It is better to drive the speakers, not the power stage of the amp.

 

I just recently purchased a pair of Acme Low B-1's and a Crown XTI 2000 Power Amp to drive them. My Kurzweil Pianos never sounded so deep, full, and realistic on stage. I can feel the low notes coming up through the stage. Totally flippin' awesome!

[alvin13]

It is always better to drive speakers with amps that have more RMS rated watts than the speakers have

Sorry to veer OT but I think Doug in Montana is happy with the replies rec'd. I've been curious about the new compact guitar leslies (g37 100W amp, g27 use your own amp) for clone use.(Just the right size for me) These leslie spkrs are rated 100W, my amp is rated 130W, so Blue Lodge Jazz you're saying I'm OK driving these spkrs with a higher rated amp? Your second point raises another question. My amp has a S/S pre amp, tube power amp. To get a sweet tube O/Drive I have to turn the master vol to 9,10,11!(Channel vol to suit) If I O/Drive the power amp, am I threatening these lower rated speakers? I would also be using an ext spkr bass cab for extra lows. Any advice gratefully rec'd. Thanks.

[bloodyMary]

I guess if you overdrive the poweramp you are risking.

hmm, usually it's the other way around - tube pre, s/s poweramp..

 

I'd recommend matched RMS ratings for amps and speakers, it looks safer to me.

 

Running an underpowered amp is dangerous, too, btw - you'll want to drive it harder, and there's a chance of clipping on the input, which creates a lot of hi-frequency power and can fry a tweeter.

 

Running an overpowered amp is dangerous, for obvious reasons - too much power can fry the speaker.

 

 

There's a lot of confusing stuff in power specs. There's continuous/program power handling, peak power handling, etc.

 

 

I'd say if your amp and speakers have same continuous RMS, they have same peak RMS, too (usually twice the continious RMS), so they'll handle short peaks well.

 

 

 

 

Alvin, in your case, 130W vs. 100W won't make too much difference, it's almost the same power.

 

 

 

 

PS. I always try to make sure the hi-freq. speakers have plenty of headroom and some kind of protection, so sudden hi-freq peaks (input clipping, feedback) won't destroy them.

 

[alvin13]

Thanx bloodyMary, I think you're saying I should be OK. I feel your scepticism re s/s pre amp etc My amp is a Musicman, no longer made after 1980's. They changed from tube pre amp to s/s because early versions were failing for some reason....It does have a Hi/Lo switch, Lo putting out about 90W RMS, so I have that option. I'll only start to worry when I get that call from Spinal Tap.......Alvin.

[mikeNZ1]

Sorry, try again...

[grockvt]

+1 B1s