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righto, techy stuff...


teddeeh

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In a short time the stickers will affect the finish of your guitar, when you peel them of you will see where the sticker was. I suppose the finish "ages" from UV and all that but not as much where the sticker was. It will look ass, especially if in a while you tire of the sticker or just the fact that you put it on. You will have a constant reminder you did.

 

I can't play Maple necks, I hate them. On my Tele with a Maple neck I take some fine steel wool at each string change and rub the gloss off the fretboard so my fingers don't stick. One day the gloss will be gone from this practice and I won't need to do it anymore.

 

I don't fully buy the fact that Maple HAS to be sealed. I am no expert but there are a bunch of Charvel necks out there that are not sealed and they are doing fine. I have a Charvel neck on a Strat body, Maple with Rosewood fingerboard that is unsealed and is old now and it is one of the most stable necks I own.

 

It is your guitar do what you want to it.

 

BUT, having said that.....I have a '64 Fender Strat I bought when I was around 16 and I fucked it up! It was Coral Red which I thought was a pansy color so I took the body to an auto shop and painted it white 'cos I wanted to be like Jimi. Later I got bored with it and went back and had it painted black. I also carved out the pickup cavity 'cos I got it in my dumb teenage skull that I wanted 6 pickups in there. God I wish I had never changed it. I will never sell it but the value and look is ruined. I would LOVE it to still be Coral Red, in fact I am considering sending it to the Custom Shop to have it put back to original.....although the missing wood is gone forever.

 

Heed what everyone is telling you.......

 

BTW this guitar plays friggen great, the loss is in the alterations only, purely cosmetic.

 

\'64 Altered Strat

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FWIW - I've never heard that sealing maple necks is an inherent necessity to keep them from warping. I highly doubt that any common sealant would add much to the neck's stability.

 

However, sealing a porous, soft would such as maple keeps it from acting like a sponge, sucking up dirt and oils from your fingers. As can be seen on any number of vintage instruments where the laquer has been rubbed off from use, there are areas that become blackened, even if you wipe down your instrument after each use. It's virtually impossible to keep some dirt from getting into pores of the wood where the sealer has rubbed away.

 

http://www.jemsite.com/tech/img/t_fb-d.jpg

 

The site I linked that pic from has suggestions on how to clean a fingerboard stained like the one above. The "after" pic is a shocker! :thu:

It's easiest to find me on Facebook. Neil Bergman

 

Soundclick

fntstcsnd

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Originally posted by fantasticsound:

FWIW - I've never heard that sealing maple necks is an inherent necessity to keep them from warping. I highly doubt that any common sealant would add much to the neck's stability.

 

However, sealing a porous, soft would such as maple keeps it from acting like a sponge, sucking up dirt and oils from your fingers. As can be seen on any number of vintage instruments where the laquer has been rubbed off from use, there are areas that become blackened, even if you wipe down your instrument after each use. It's virtually impossible to keep some dirt from getting into pores of the wood where the sealer has rubbed away.

 

http://www.jemsite.com/tech/img/t_fb-d.jpg

 

The site I linked that pic from has suggestions on how to clean a fingerboard stained like the one above. The "after" pic is a shocker! :thu:

Neil, did i understand you to say maple(and they make necks out of rock maple) is a "soft" wood? I understand that it's among the hardest of commercially abundant woods, much harder than mahogany, which is the other most common neck wood. I agree that oils and other contaminants can permeate its surface, and you're correct that it doesn't necessarily need to be sealed, if it's kiln dried and stable, but most of us who prefer maple as a fretboard wood like the slick finish typical of a new Fender, Ibanez, Charvel, etc.
Never a DUH! moment! Well, almost never. OK, OK! Sometimes never!
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Maple is, in fact, one of the hardest woods available. I think fantasticsound was right on, though, in saying that the sealing helps keep dirt from getting imbedded. Rosewood and Ebony are the other two common fretboard materials and they are both dark in color and don't show dirt nearly as badly as the almost-white or light golden color of maple.

"And so I definitely, when I have a daughter, I have a lot of good advice for her."

~Paris Hilton

 

BWAAAHAAAHAAHAAA!!!

 

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I got my info from Warmoth. They won't warranty a neck that isn't properly sealed. That being said, on my Carvin Bolt on kit I have a tung oil finish, which acts as a sealant. I am not sure if it is the best finish long term for protecting the guitar, but it sure feels good.
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tung oil is the hardest natural finish. It soaks in and does a nice job. There are man-made finishes that are harder, but who cares?

 

Bill

"I believe that entertainment can aspire to be art, and can become art, but if you set out to make art you're an idiot."

 

Steve Martin

 

Show business: we're all here because we're not all there.

 

 

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