Old Music Guy

Yeah. This one. I have one, it fits my P like an Armani suit, and it's bullet proof. Mine is actually Fender branded. Definitely worth the $$$

TL; DR Got about 20 minutes in to it. I liked the stories about Purdie.

I worked with a guitar player that did that with a Les Paul. Never missed a beat and played a hell of a "bloody" solo. True story.

I just spent some time looking at the notation in your original post. It took a bit, but I think I know why it may be a bit confusing for a novice reader. The notes as written have a pointer that indicates "soprano, alto, tenor and bass" parts. In any clef, the stem is not an indicator of which singer sings what note; i.e. an upward stem done not mean that it's only for sopranos, nor does a downward stem mean it's only for the altos. The same is true for the bass clef. That said, if I were arranging for a barbershop quartet, each singer would have their own sheet; treble for soprano and alto, bass for tenor and bass. Reading from individual charts, a soprano would sing the highest note on the page, the bass from the lowest on that chart. Altos and tenors, well, they're special, but the rule still applies. I hope this makes a little sense.

This is a general rule for quarter notes. In the treble clef, note below B, (middle line) the stem points down. Anything above B the stem points upwards. B can go either way depending... The rule does not apply to "tuplets". The first note of a tuplet defines the direction of the stem for all notes in the tuplet. . The same rules apply for the bass clef.

Sam Ash and Manny's are a part of my childhood. RIP

Sounds like a road warrior

Not sure how far this gone off the rails, but here's my 2 cents. I have a 1948 BV. I replaced the "run" motor several years ago. What I learned in the process is this: (Notwithstanding working on a Hammond is not for the faint of heart) 1. There are 2 or 3 little "cups" (depending on the model) that sit on the top of the case for the tone wheels 2. There is/are a wick(s) (similar to those in a Zippo lighter) attached to each cup. 3. These wicks sit just above the tone wheels at various points within the case. 4. The oil wicks down each cup and lubricates the tone wheels in *very small* quantities as needed over time. I've had my48 since 2001, and I've oiled it ONCE. Be very careful NOT to overfill the cups! I hope this is helpful

The new JJs did the trick. And it has all the mum I could possible want. I would LOVE to get rid pf my heavy" amps, but the shipping makes it an unreasonable proposition. If I lived in an urban/suburban environment, local pick-up would be an option, but I am in the sticks.

I did. JJs. I'm not a gigging guy, so a couple of volts bias are not gonna make a difference for recording. But I get your point, and appreciate the advice.

How is that accomplished?

After I located the faulty 6L6, (yet, it did burn!), I bought a matched pair of JJs. I also didn't realize how long I've had the amp. It was like 12 guitars ago, so, I've had it at least 10 years. Can't expect them to last forever. I have a solid-state Fender Champ, and a Roland JC-120, which is also SS. If I could sell the Fender tube, I would in a heartbeat. One time I plugged in a Tele, turned the volume up to 4. walked across the room about 30 feet. No drive, no gain, no dice. First time I got feedback from a Tele! For a 40W amp, this thing is a beast. With all due respect, THAT'S JUST SICK 😝 Nice rig!

I have a few decades of experience in electronics, but mostly solid-state: analog and digital. Tubes? Not a clue. But what surprised me was how the tube failed. It only started to exhibit any sign of failure when a B4 was played, and the B5. Any B above or below sounded fine. Then it just sh*t the bed. I have never known any active component failure to be frequency specific. Fortunately, I was able to test the front end through another amp via the pre-amp out, That saved me A LOT of $$$ not having to buy 3 12AX7s. Hopefully this can be a tip for those with similar issues, D2

I know this is a reply to an old post, so consider this an update. I decided to jump into analog head first. I picked up a Studer/ReVox 8 track a month ago. I also picked up a Peavey RSM 16 track mixer. While I'm still up to my arse trying to wire the proper cables, I have been able to make music (on 4 channels) without a computer. I did find that my TASCAM DI will work as a true DI IF it isn't plugged into the PC via USB. My only issue now is how to route my MIDI controller, synth and drum plugins and go directly to tape WITHOUT plugging the DI into the computer. Maybe it should be an overdub situation ???

I was tracking with a friend last week. He was using my BD. At some point, every time he played a B4 or a B5, the amp would buzz/squeel. No other B, No other note. All of a sudden the amp started to buzz madly. I turned all the controls to zero, and turned the amp on again. Still buzzed. I don't live in an area where amp repairs are readily available, so I just thought about it. I turned on the amp this evening hoping to narrow down the problem, and think I got it. I suspected the 6L6 outputs, but at $60+ I wasn't in the mood to shotgun it with tubes. So, 1. I turned on the amp (after removing the back) and let it warm up. The buzz was still there. 2. Felt the tubes and one was cooking (heater short?) 3. I removed the 6L6s and turned the amp on: No buzz. 4. To check the front end, I plugged the "Pre-amp Out" into another amp. Worked great. So I knew the front end was OK. 5. Bought JJ 6L6s. I put this here only because I needed to fix the amp myself. There is way too much information out there that I didn't trust, so I had to take the bull by the tail and face the situation. If this helps anyone, I'm happy.