hirsute

Thanks! That's very helpful.

My google-fu has failed me, so I'm hoping you can help. I'm looking at a used Motion Sound KP-500S. I see various references online to either a KP-500S or a KP-500SN, so I'm wondering if they're different models, and if so, which is newer, any feature differences or issues to look out for on either? Bonus question: another option is a used KP-612S. It looks like the main differences between the 500 and the 612 are that the 500 has 250 watts per channel but an unpowered sub out, and the 612 has 200 watts per channel plus a powered sub out. Any other feature differences I'm missing, or any reason to choose the 612 over the 500 if the 612 is a couple hundred more and I don't need the powered sub out?

I use my SS v.3 on stage, but I run my keys through a Key Largo first, and then send the balanced to FOH and the monitor out to the SS.

I know that Berklee offers free online classes for Abelton.

Thanks for all of the help, I was able to get it working. Tried connecting my little USB midi controller and discovered that didn't work either, so I traced it down to a bad adapter. Quick trip to bestbuy for a lightning to USB hub, similar to the Belink that Might Motif Max posted above did the trick.

It's a 2018 MacBook Pro with 2.3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i5, and I am running Big Sur. It has 4 thunderbolt 3 connectors, and that's it. I've definitely run into issues with USB to thunderbolt adapters--some work with some devices, others don't, and it's all a bit fiddly. The lack of backwards compatibility with this stuff is the biggest frustration I've had with this machine. I've tried to connect the Key Largo off of an adapter and off of a hub and it's not recognizing the Key Largo, so I'm trying to figure out if I should try a different hub or adapter, or just bite the bullet and get an interface that's designed with a thunderbolt connection.

I'm struggling to use my Radial Key Largo as an interface on my fairly new MacBook Pro. The MacBook has thunderbolt 3 inputs, so I'm using a USB to thunderbolt adapter, which I know can cause issues. I'm trying to figure out if I'm having an issue with the thunderbolt compatibility, an issue with garageband recognizing the Key Largo as an input, or just operator error from my own inexperience. Kind of hard to narrow it down, so I'm looking for any tips/suggestions you might have to make this setup work. Or I might just plunk down the cash for a Focusrite Scarlett 4i4 or similar so I have a thunderbolt interface. Thoughts?

I second using a Radial Key Largo. You can run one volume pedal out of the Key Largo for all of the boards going into it, get the advantage of being able to submix your levels, and can send separate stereo signals to your monitor (the Motion Sound) and FOH from the Key Largo.

The SV-1 also has audio inputs, so you could run the audio output of the ipad back into the SV-1 where it will go through to the SV-1 outputs. That would allow you to avoid adding a mixer to the setup.

Thanks for this, I wasn't aware of the foam issue but you prompted me to read up on it. Sounds like something I definitely don't want any part of! I've reached out to the seller and the tech that serviced the organ to find out more before diving in to this one.

Thanks for all the great info and advice. I'm going to check out the A100 and the Leslie and see what kind of shape they're actually in.

Thanks for the info. It has plywood shelves, so that would be pre-1970. It has the typed serial number on a red and silver plate on the back, no mention of CBS, so I'm assuming that mean pre-1966 (it's not clear to me from the dating sites what the different between the CBS foil tag and metal tag are so I'm guessing a bit on this). Speaker is a Jensen. Date code on the lower baffle has the last number partially hidden, but it's 260? with the last number showing the bottom of the number having a round character, so either 0, 3, 5, 6, or 8. Everything appears original and unmodified.

I've been wanting to get a real Hammond for a while, and have a couple of options locally. The first is an A100 that was in a studio, very good shape cosmetically, has been gone through by a local Hammond tech, and is listed for $1500. The second is a C-2 which looks clean, but hasn't been gone through for $600. The C-2 also includes a JR-20 tone cabinet. On the C-2, I know about the issue of ratcheting vs smooth drawbars, and I'd need to add a Trek II to the B-2, but it seems like a pretty good price, and a price that allows for some leeway if I need some work done. But to be honest I have no real idea how expensive repairs could get. Neither comes with a Leslie, but the A100 comes with the connections and switches for a 147. I'm leaning toward the A100 since it's clean and recently serviced and ready to hook up. My only hesitation on the A100 is the weight of it--I'd probably never drag it to a gig, whereas I might drag the C-2 to a gig. What else should I be thinking about? Either of these options stand out as the clear winner? Or pass on both and keep looking? Also, I have a line on a clean Leslie 145 for $1200. Good price or keep looking?

Sweetfootpedals makes all kinds of footswitches for amps, etc., and they offer a variety of small 2-bottom footswitches for the NeoVent https://reverb.com/item/26001293-neo-ventilator-vent-ventilator-2-remote-footswitch-handmade-in-usa-by-sweetfootpedals-com

Yeah, but I heard that Behringer teased its own version of a monolith and it's going to be significantly cheaper!

Thanks! These give me some good ideas for making my own.

Any recommendations for a good portable organ bench? This is for a B-3 clone, so it has to get near the 23.5" standard height, and it also has to be at least 24" wide at the base to span a set of bass pedals. The width requirement in particular seems to leave very limited options, so I'm wondering what people use. Do you just take the bench from your home organ and deal with the bulk? I never see used full size benches for sale; I do occasionally see spinet organ benches which are wide enough but an inch or so short, and I see that Hammond offers a few options but they are between $400 and $650. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

On my Mojo 61 w lower manual and Studiologic 113 pedals, when trying to do the pedal tap, I don't get the percussive attack, but rather I sound the note I'm tapping. This happens even with the lightest tap, and no amount of "touch" seems to deliver just the percussive thump. Am I messing up the technique or is this a limitation in the Mojo and/or my pedals? If it's the Mojo, is there any way to adjust this in the editor? Wondering if others encounter this.

Thanks for the recommendation on the JG3. I've seen those, and there are a few reviews of them I've found online, but the reviews are a bit mixed and some folks have quality issues with them. The P&Ms look like they're nicer and more solidly built, but other than the feedback on ebay and reverb from buyers, I don't really see much online about them.

Does anyone have experience with P&M midi pedals? https://reverb.com/item/35851914-p-m-midi-pedalboards-18-note-midi-pedalboard-with-expression-pedal-platform I see them on Reverb and eBay and they look like a great reasonably priced set of organ pedals that aren't just the typical spinet size pedals. Most of the other options I've seen for full size pedals are much more expensive and more pedals than I really need (Viscount 18 or 25, Hammond SK or XK). Any experiences with the P&M pedals, good or bad, would be greatly appreciated.

That did the trick, thank you! I had assumed that when I connected everything and I was getting sound that everything was communicating on the right channels. Nope! Changing the pedalboard to midi channel 3 fixed it. Thanks so much!

Thanks for the reply Joe. I'm sorry it took a while for me to respond--shortly after posting this I had to pack up my gear to make room in my house for a buddy's gear when he had to evacuate for wildfires. He's OK, his house is OK, and just picked up all of his gear yesterday so I'm back in action. I've tried that, and still nothing. I get sound from my pedals just fine, but the drawbars don't change the sounds at all, and I can't dial any level of release with the drawbars. This is with the full Mojo 61, Mojo 61 lower, and Studiologic MP113 pedals. If I select "pedal to lower", I can adjust the pedal sounds on the lower manual with the drawbars just fine (with the 3 lower drawbars, and can dial in release just fine). Of course this doesn't change the sound on the pedals and the changes don't copy through to the pedals if I change it off pedal to lower. I've tried adjusting pedal drawbars with the pedals in "single" and "ext-lower" mode (my understanding is the correct mode to be in is ext-lower when using the full kit, but I've tried different settings to see if I can get it to work), and then tapping "pedals" so the pedals light is red (but no yellow light for pedals to lower). I can't adjust the pedal sound with the drawbars. I can't figure out what I'm missing, and it doesn't seem like its necessarily defective unless there's a problem with the "pedals" function that's not selecting the drawbars when I select it. Any other thoughts on what I can try?

When I use my Mojo 61 alone, I have no problem selecting the pedal drawbars when I use pedal to lower and play the pedals in the left hand. However, when I have the Mojo 61 hooked up with the lower manual and my Studiologic 113 pedals, I can't seem to figure out how to select the pedal drawbars. Can someone who uses the full setup enlighten me? Thanks.

Good catch, I got those mixed up. You're right, it's the Go 88 I was referring to.

Have you considered the Roland RD-88? I haven't played one, but they're generally well-reviewed and fit your budget (no speakers though).