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Sparky2

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Everything posted by Sparky2

  1. Digging up this old thread with an update, in case anyone is interested. It has been another 7 years of PA gigs and the LCR2400 is still going strong with no issues. Was put to the test this weekend when I went against my previously hard fast rule and let someone plug in their lights. What harm can two small LED wash lights do? Well, she thought 'since it is OK to run my lights on an extension cord from his distro, I guess it"s OK to plug in my cool smoke machines too!'. Halfway through the first tune she kicked them on and the stage went dark and quiet. To plug all of her shit, turn off my FOH and speakers, hit the reset button, powered up and we were off again. ran the whole PA (QSC HPR subs, 2-12' HPR tops, 3-12' HPR for monitors) and the band with two old Fender 100w tube amps, all from a 100" 12ga extension. I would buy this unit again. Currently found for around $350.
  2. Great idea: perform house concerts but bring a trunk of headphones and a rack of headphone amps instead of a PA! Mark
  3. Interesting how there seems to be a trend back to hardware.... Love it! Mark
  4. Thanks for the input, Pa Gherkin. That's what I'm wrestling with..... Mark
  5. uh, Mike.... you'll be in Japan... [video:youtube]
  6. Since I carry the powered QSC PA (2 subs, 2 12s for tops, and one 12 for monitor) I need the 2400W capacity. In your position with various keys, plus powered speaker(s) and have a little extra money, I would get this one Furman AR 1215 because it takes a single rack space and is more precise and only weighs 12 pounds. Available around $525 (Amazon).
  7. Very cool. I'm starting to feel a little smarter about still using it. Thanks for more lay-speak, DD. The difference between $260 (27 lbs) and $1,725 (39 lbs) is a lot. But I didn't expect to completely give up the customer service :-) There have been gigs where digital guitar amps were acting funky and my laptop, keys, and PA were functioning OK. We were running everything on a farm with 150 feet of orange cord from the barn. I'm sure we were lucky if we got 100v before we turned on the amps. So Tee, even if I had a keys-only gig (no PA) I'd still bring this unit is it's own 4-space road case just to protect my gear. Plus it gives me 14 outlets on a 10-foot cord so I don't have to bring power strips. Mark
  8. Be wary of the weight: LCR2400 is 27 pounds plus road case and the LC1200 is 9 pounds. Oyarsa, How do you carry it to/from?
  9. The LCR2400 appears to be the same but 2400W instead of 1200W (because I run the PA) and the "R" is for rack (3 spaces).
  10. Your plain English description above sounds very much like their: "Reliable transformer-based voltage correction circuits maintain 120V nominal output during voltage fluctuations between 89 and 147V. Three levels of voltage stabilization offer targeted response for over-voltages, under-voltages and severe brownouts." And in the FAQs I found: "The voltage regulation of the LCR2400 kicks in at different voltage points. The 1st boost sets at 114v and resets at 118v. The 2nd boost sets at 104v and resets at 107v. The 1st cut sets at 130v and resets at 127v. High line is set at 140v and resets at 137v. The output voltage of the LCR2400 should remain at a nominal 120v." Does this sound like there actually is something wrong? Thanks again for your patience. Mark
  11. Wow, thanks JD! It would appear that Tripp Lite Technical Support team may not be very knowledgeable. So, with all the usual caveats, based on my description above you would assume nothing out of the ordinary and still use it? BTW: The only other times I check measured was when it was good input voltage (120 +/- 1.5) or really poor 106-108 and I got a pure 120v. Thanks. Mark
  12. I have a Tripp Lite LCR2400 voltage regulator / power conditioner that I have run all of my gear from for seven years now. It will boost output voltage to a steady 120v if it hits 118.5v or below, and reduce to 120v if the supply exceeds 121.5v. I recently noticed that the input indicator displayed "LOW" and my studio receptacle was giving me 115v +/- (measured w/hand meter). So I measured the output put of the LCR and it was 126.4v! I tested the unit around the house and at other locations. Between 118 and 121 it reads Normal input voltage and does not change the voltage (per spec). If the voltage drops below 118 it will add 11v+. It doesn't stop at 120. At 118 I get 129.4! I had no way of checking what happens above 121. I contacted Tripp Lite technical support/customer service. After a few back/forth emails, they told me it was out of warranty and suggested "I swap it for a new one." I asked if it was worth repairing and they told me that they do not offer repair service on these units. They were also not interested in analyzing the defective unit to determine what went wrong. I asked them "How I can feel secure that a new unit won't provide too much voltage when they don't even care why this one went bad?" and got no response. I mentioned that I have suggested these units many times on forums over the years and that I believe good customer service (and reputation) would include return of the defective unit and at least an offer to purchase a factory reconditioned replacement. And that maybe I should have spent the extra money on the Furman. Their reply was that they don't sell the units, they don't repair them, they don't make the schematics available to the public, and here is a list of vendors that sell them. Sure I got 7 years of service from this and it only cost about $240 US (now $260). It was a good value but I am not sure I should buy another or throw this away. So my questions for those who understand electronics are: Would you think this might be a simple repair? A bad component on a circuit board? Is it possible for something like this to exceed 130v output? Won't that much voltage damage gear? Would you buy another one? (The Furman costs $1,700!!!!) If not, shouldn't it be simple to turn it into a basic noise filtering surge suppressor power strip? I love this thing. It ran our entire band and powered QSC PA! And now I have to wonder whether I should spend the money on a Furman. Some clubs definitely provide us with less than 110v, especially when the refrigerators kick on. And the catering hall dimmers make a lot of noise. Thanks for any helpful suggestions. Mark
  13. I'm drooling over this one. Looks like I may have a new winter project. Unfortunately I'd like it to be large enough/strong enough for a PC3x on the bottom. Which handles fit the plywood thickness like that? Thanks for sharing. Mark
  14. I have a couple of books/videos and have been looking for more on the used market. Can't afford to buy them "new" from Dirk. Something about Dick's presentation that sinks in.... Mark
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