Mike Warren
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Posts posted by Mike Warren
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I want one!
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If we're talking about "old" Roland pianos, my first Roland piano was a HP70. Next, I had a Yamaha FP80 and then a RD1000. Later, when I got a JV90, I used it's piano sounds from the RD1000.
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It's no different than putting a DP in a grand piano shell IMO.
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The nearest stores to me that have one (about 375 ks away) are still closed dues to COVID.
Sounds like you're in an out of the way place like me.
I'm interested in what you think of the PX-S3000's action.
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This thread has been somewhat helpful, except that I've tried an Arturia Keylab in the past and I didn't care for it. My search continues.
Was it a MK2? The difference between the 49/61MK2 and the 49/61 Essential is massive.
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I went through a similar process recently:
I ended up getting the Arturia Keylab MK2 61. I'm happy with it.
The Keylab MK2 series does have an on/off switch. Don't go for the Essential versions. They have a horrible action (and no power switch).
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According to the service manual it has a 7805, 7812 and 7912 so that would be +5V, +12V and -12V. Getting the negative supply from a positive DC in will be non-trivial.
Service Manual: https://www.synthxl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Roland-A-70-service-notes.pdf
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The table I bought for my computer years ago, had a tray that I was too cheap to buy at the time, then it became unavailable later on. Grr. Good to see you found one for your own table, at least!
I "found" it by making it myself.
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For the volume to go to 0 the wiper has to be connected with almost no resistance to one end of the pot, so that pot would have to be 0 ohms for a large part of its travel, so it's a special one.
(BTW, I'm an electronics engineer)
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Have you hooked it up to a computer and checked it actually is sending CC11?
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Anyway, the show went very well! It felt so good playing in front of an audience again.
That would have been wonderful. I haven't even seen any live music since this pandemic started. The couple of concerts I did buy tickets for were both cancelled at the last minute.
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The actual value of the pot is not the most important thing. Typically, the keyboard send out 5V on the top end of the pot. The bottom end is connected to ground and the wiper forms a voltage divider. For most keyboards, I'd expect anything between 20K and 100K to work, but the range is the killer.
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The "B" signifies it's a linear taper, but many pedals need short throw pots. You'll be able to tell this by looking at how much of the 270 degree range is actually used.
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I made the tray under the desk over the weekend.
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Very nice. This is a totally different feel, but brought Wend Carlos to mind.
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I wiped my Samsung and installed LineageOS. Nothing on there that I didn't put there myself. Battery life almost doubled.
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Here's a quick bit of processing with the drums removed that may help:
Full speed followed by half speed.
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Please set this thread to rest with your conclusions, if only just to satisfy my own curiosity (and perhaps ego).
Well, the keybed is miles ahead of the Essential. Semi-weighted, although, IMO just barely. It's a little trickier to play accurate velocities on the pp end of the scale than on a hammer action, but not unworkable. I played for a couple of hours last night, most of which was using Austrian Grand, and I had enough control to be satisfied with it. Also, no stuck notes. I did have to adjust what I played somewhat because of running out of notes, but I still have the Forte available when I need it.
The integration with Cubase is much better than the Essential too.
So, yes, I think it's a keeper. I'll play with it again tonight to be sure, and on the weekend I'll build a slide-out drawer for it under the desk.
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Incidentally, I opened a support ticket with Arturia about the stuck notes problem with the Essential. They seemed surprised about it doing that as a firmware update a while back was supposed to have fixed it. They told me to try a factory reset, which I'm skeptical would fix a problem like that.
So before I did the reset I thought I'd try some more diagnosis, since I haven't used the Essential for a while. I connected it to my laptop and could not get it to fail at all. So I moved it back to my studio computer and it also worked properly. That was several days ago and has not played up since. Previously it was very easy to get one or more notes to stick. Just mash the keyboard and it would be 99% likely to happen.
Unfortunately, I hadn't confirmed the fault on my studio computer before I moved it to the laptop, so my best guess is that it was a USB issue that has been fixed by a driver update at some point.
Anyway, I'm no longer concerned about Arturias getting stuck notes.
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I may have a compromise I can live with, or at least be on my way to it.
I visited my local musical instrument store today to spend some time on the Juno DS88 they have in the showroom. I wanted to see if its keyboard was going to give my hands problems. After an hour playing it my hands were no more tired/sore than if I was playing my Forte. The action is certainly more like a piano than my forte. I really liked the feel of the action. I couldn't connect with the sounds at all, not that it matters too much since I'm looking for a controller. I understand the keybed is the same as the A88 MK2.
Then I noticed a Arturia Keylab MK2 61 box in the corner and asked if that was an actual Keylab MK2 61, since they didn't have it listed on their web site. Turns out it had only recently arrived into stock and hadn't been put on the website yet.
The shop is happy to give me a credit on it for something else if I don't like the Keylab and haven't registered it, so I purchased it.
I'll put it through its paces tonight to see if I can control the action better than the Keylab Essential. A couple of hours should tell me if I'm going to keep it.
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I think what you want is so specialized I doubt anyone would make one.
There. Now someone will post a link the the perfect device just to prove me wrong.
More seriously, USB is a bi-directional communications protocol. Both devices need to be intelligent, and having two hosts would cause all sorts of complications. It could be made to work for simple protocols like USB MIDI, but would be extremely hard for other devices like audio interfaces.
Have you thought about coming out of your controller with normal MIDI and the using separate interfaces on each computer?
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I'd prefer to see Mini-XLR connectors instead of small TRS. Though made by Switchcraft, Neutrik and maybe others, I haven't seen PC mount yet.
They are available: Link
I'd like that too, but they are significantly more expensive than 3.5mm and DIN.
Cherry officially popped.
in The Keyboard Corner
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I really enjoyed that. Looking forward to part 2.