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keyoctave

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About keyoctave

  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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    The Mountains
  1. THIS Get the 1700 version. It is a little more money than the other off brands, but is a lot more accurate. Bought this for my wife a few years ago. Excellent quality. I have worked in the medical field 4 decades now and have found this company to consistently provided top quality products to the medical community. Their lineage spills over to the home consumer division incorporating some of the finer functions of their (much) more expensive professional equipment.
  2. Got mine first thing Monday morning. No problems with the injection. Felt a little tired and just slightly dizzy till late afternoon. Shoulder was sore by the evening. Today, I am feeling fine with the injection site muscle soreness mostly gone. I received the Pfizer vaccine. Also, no tail with pom-poms and i can still play the piano with both hands.....
  3. I can"t see your pics (not on FB) but if I"m understanding this correctly, the spinning tip of the horn is hitting something? If that"s not true then disregard the following: I only used 1 rubber washer on the top of the horn under the plastic cap. When I used more than one, it compressed the horn down causing it to barely hit the wood mounting block causing a ticking sound. I ended using two (or three?) of the rubber washers on the bottom of the horn raising the horn up just enough to keep it from hitting anything.
  4. The new belt will be a little tighter causing the horn to slow down. You need to adjust the slow speed pot on the circuit board to provide more voltage to the horn motor so it spins faster in slow mode. Unfortunately, this means you have to take the amp back out. It is best to test out the amp before you place it back in the cabinet any time you pull it out for what ever reason. Since the bottom is not flat, you need to put two pieces of wood (like a 2x2) under each side edge to support it. You can then plug it in and use it as is. It will sound weird without the low end. I would suggest that you hook some temporary extension wire from the wires that hookup to the speakers so you can properly hear and be able to adjust the high and low speeds to the top and bottom (as well as acceleration for each) to your liking. The horn will spin just fine out of the box, so dont worry about it flying off some where when you test it out....lol. If you want to take the time, try to listen to some quality recordings made of a real Leslie on a good pair of speakers/headphones. Listen to how the top and bottom rotation speeds differ from each other when speeding up and slowing down. Try to emulate that with the KBR using the adjustment pots. The effort will payoff with a more realistic sounding speaker. When I had mine, I set it on top of a my 147 and adjusted it till it sounded quite close. And yes, there is a plastic cap on top of the cabinet that supports the top of the rotor that has 3 screws. I forgot to mention that (my bad).
  5. Boy, that pic sure brings up memories. That is exactly what I had back in the day. First bought the stage 73 then added the pre-amp with the speakers. Loved the panning effect.
  6. You say that the first step is to remove both front speakers. Can you be more specific? I assume you get to them through the front of the unit? There are no screws there? How do you gain access to them, is it behind the grill cloth? Which model of the KBR-3D do you have? The older one with the painted finish and black grills or the later models with the truck bed type finish and grey color grills? First, lay the amp on its back then remove the grill. The older models have two separate covers that are held in place by Velcro. You just need to pry behind them and pull them off. The newer ones grill is held in place by screws on the front of the grill. With the speakers exposed, remove the screws in the speaker frame surround holding the speaker to the cabinet. You can then pry up the speaker, disconnect the wires behind them (make note of the wire polarity) and lift them out. The reason its better doing this with the cabinet laying on its back is because when you remove the last speaker screw with the cabinet upright, the speaker will want to fall out, possibly causing damage to them. At this point sit the cabinet upright and start removing the amp mounting bolts/screws as outlined above. It is a time consuming job doing this. Shows just how will built the MS stuff is! I had mine for many years, even separating the top amp section from the bottom cabinet making two separate sections. My festival system consisted of the top part sitting on top of two JBL 15 PA cabinets. That system screamed!
  7. I am assuming that by not working you are referring to it not spinning. To remove the amp/horn assembly, you must remove both front speakers and disconnect the speaker wires. Then by sight and feel, unbolt the machine bolts along the inside top of each speaker compartment. After that, go to the back of the unit and unscrew the screws that hold the back of the amp on the speaker box. You can now slightly tilt the unit back and pull the amp out. Check that the belt is still hooked up to the motor and horn. If it is broken, replacements are easy to obtain. This is also a good time to clean the amp with some compressed air. Also, if you have an older unit with the white horn, you can upgrade it to the black horn model. With the unit out of the box, you can plug it in and test the horn function, speed and sound before sliding it back in. Place it on two parallel supports to do this as the bottom is not flat. .
  8. Something else I found out in doing the 8 pin DIN cable.... When the ventilator and the SK's line out are hooked up to a mixer, put on a pair of headphones, select an organ only program and unplug the 8 pin cable while holding a cord. The SK switches immediately to the internal sim. When you plug it back in, it switches right back to Ventilator. Balance the volume of each in the mixer and now you can do an instant direct comparison between the two sims.
  9. There has been discusion in the past on making an 8 pin cable to control the Neo Ventilator from your SK organ. The hardest part was soldering the wire to the tiny pins on the DIN connector. I made one for use with my XK-1 which used the DIN part to control the vent speed and used a seperate 1/4" cable to carry the audio from the organ to the vent. Since I now have an SK-1, I decided to make one that carries speed control as well as audio and in doing this, found an easier way to construct this cable. I went into this deciding to make two cables (always good to have a spare). I purchased 3' of 1/4" TRS cable and 3' of 1/4" TS cable (also know as stereo and instrument cable) and 10' of 8 pin DIN cable. This will give me two cables of approx 6.5' (you can cut the cable to any length you want or buy a longer DIN cable for extended runs). Since the 8 pin DIN cable wire is colored to industry wiring standards you can assemble this wire without the need of a multi-meter to determine which wire goes to what pin. Here is the 8 pin DIN wire color to pin standard: Pin 1 Brown Pin 2 Red Pin 3 Orange Pin 4 Yellow Pin 5 Green Pin 6 Blue Pin 7 Violet Pin 8 Grey Bare wire - metal shield Here are the pin assignments that work with the Neo ventilator: Pin 1 Audio out (rotary only, not extra voice) Pin 2 Leslie detect Pin 5 Ground Pin 7 Fast speed Pin 8 Slow speed Not used - Pins 3,4,and 6 All you have to do it strip the ends you cut and solder/heat shrink the bare ends by matching up the color wire from the DIN cable to the appropriate wire on the TRS/TS cable. Here's how it goes: Pin 1 (brown wire) solders to the hot (tip) of the TS cable. Pin 7 (violet wire) solders to the ring (white or black color) of the TRS cable. Pin 8 (grey wire) solders to the tip (red wire) of the TRS cable. Pins 2,5 and the shield wire solder to both shield wires from the TS/TRS cable. You should shrink each wire separately, then shrink the whole cable as one (don't forget to slide the shrink tubing on before you solder). You now have a completed cable with factory made ends. I look at the vent as a Leslie speaker in that I only want organ sounds going through it. By using the 8 pin cable, I can control the vent from the SK's Leslie controls (I also use a foot switch hooked up to the SK to control the speed as well) and the extra voices are now routed through the SK's L/R line out's. The 8 pin cable also turns off the internal Leslie effect when plugged in but when unplugged, the internal effect is back on. This way, you can still save a patch's Leslie effect that can be used if your not using the vent. Hope this helps those of you who do this kind of stuff.
  10. Updated mine last night from the Japan site. Am really loving the SK-1. What's cool is the 8 pin cable I made for my old XK-1 to control the vent works fine with the SK-1. Also want to say thanks to JMcS for all your great input on this thread!
  11. YES! I'm just a week away from ordering my SK-1. This is the one update I have been hoping for. I know what a difference the higher trigger point made on my XK-1. This is sweeeeet!
  12. On my XK-1, I can set the key trigger points by holding down the 3 leslie buttons during power up. Can the trigger points be set (low or high) on the SK?
  13. I had posted the same question, but never got an answer. Good to finally see the answer, even though it isn't the one I would have hoped for. Me either. By doing this, you could play a full range piano on a 61 note keyboard (one manual for chords and/or bass. The other manual for soloing). Might be kinda weird at first, but I guess one could adapt to it.
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