Corner Pocket

The 5E3 - a deluxe... is a 6V6 not a 6L6 amp. On speakers .... the Q has a higher output and higher power handling capacity. I use P12N's in tweed deluxes a lot but the best speaker ever made is still the Vox blue or Celestion silver bulldog ... same speaker. I dislike greenbacks in tweed deluxes. A H30 would be better for my tastes if I did not use a Vox Blue. Sorry, I knew it was a 6V6 amp. Keeping in mind I like the 6L6R2's in a twin, what 6V6 tube(s) would you recommend? Thanks again.

Myles, My stepson has taken it upon himself to build me a 5E3 kit. I'm looking for some recomendations. I play jazzy type material in both a big band and in a guitar sax duo. My main guitar is a Byrdland. I like clean headroom, I don't like pre-amp distortion. I like power section distortion up to the point where the sound thickens up. Not quite grinding, just thicker sounding. I like dark sounding tones. I almost never use the bridge p'up on any guitar, and I frequently turn down the tone knob a tick. I am looking for the amp to sound more true to vintage as opposed to a hopped up Deluxe. Soooo, I need some input: Speakers???? Celestion Greenback or Jensen P12R or P12Q? Why? Tubes? I've got no idea where to go with this. You once recommended 6L6R2's at a #2 to #3 rating for my SF twin reverb, which I still really like. I think I might need to go to a higher # to get some headroom out of a low watt amp. Thanks in advance.

I'm not Myles, but here is what he told me for MY SF twin: "If you want to go softer I'd opt for a set of 6L6R2 (these are the real Svetlanas) patterened off the Sylvania STR387 and a great "Twin Tube". Go with a #2-3 rating and bias at 30mA." The Master Volume is out of the loop on mine, the "Hum Balance" has been changed to a resistor grid, and the "Output Tubes Matching" is now a real bias control. I also put in a Matched Phase Invertor" tube. Long story short, my amp sounds great. I'm a clean player, (Byrdland straight into amp, no effects), but with a less feedback prone instrument, you can crank the amp and it sings nicely. It's the right amp for me. YMMV.

Ok, All is well in Twin Reverb Land. I dunno what I did, but the new fuse didn't blow. My best guess is that the tube was not fully seated into the bias tool, and/or the bias tool was not fully seated into the tube socket, and then something happened to blow the fuse. Anyway, I'm now biased at 30 - 31 mA. The four tubes are waaay closer than the four "matched" Boogie Tubes, and the Matched PI tube makes a dramatic difference. This is probably partly true because the existing PI tube was not matched. I'm sure there are PI tubes out there that happen to be matched more by accident than design. My existing PI tube must've been on the mis-match side of the coin. The low number GT 6L6R tubes, (they are #3 on the GT 1 -10 scale) are the best sounding tubes I've put in the amp, and they distort at a loud, but livable volume. It's like I have a brand new amp. And at the cost of tubes, I cold've bought one. :-)

Acknowledged. I will replace the fuse today and make attempt #2. The meter was set to DC volts.

4 Boogie 6L6 GC, (STR 420) in a 135 W Twin Reverb. I wanted to see where the bias was on these tubes before I tried my new GT tubes. I tried the Bias tool first in tube # 2 (counting from the left) and got no reading on my meter. So I powered down, and tried power tube #3 (from the left), and powered back up. That's when the fuse blew. Question: Can you set the bias on power tubes without the PI tube?

Grrr, it must be Rocket Surgery after all!!!!! I followed the GT Bias Manual to the letter, and the main fuse blew upon powering up the amp. I guess I'm in over my head for now. Suggestions????

Myles, My tubes and bias tool just came in. My 135 watt Twin has been modified such that the "output tubes matching" pot is now a bias pot, and the "hum balance" pot has been taken out of the loop, and replaced with a resistor network/grid directly from the transformer. I'm thinking that this process isn't rocket surgery, and I should be OK. Ta very much for your help to this board in general, and me in particular.

Myles, I've just come into possesion of a Gibson Minuteman GA-20 rvt. Internet resources are thin, at best, on this amp. What are the things to fear on this amp, if any?

Myles, One more 135 W Twin question, as I await delivery of my new power tubes and bias kit. When I want absolute silence, I run without V5, the tremelo driver. But I do like my tremelo. Do you have a recomendation for a quiet tube?

I'm not Myles, but when using my tube amps, I turn on the power of the amp first, then I get out my guitar, accessories and tuner. Once I'm tuned up and set to play, the amp has been idling in standy for a few minutes. When done, I go back to standby, pack up, clean up and then power down. It's my way of not turning everything on right away.

Myles, Thanks for the help, I've just ordered a matched quad set of 6l6R2's, a 12AT7 MPI, and a Bias Tool and Manual. I've entered the comment to have the order go past you.

Myles, It's time for me to put in some new Power Tubes, and an MPI in a 135 watt Twin Reverb. I've used Mesa Boogie 427 tubes and liked them, and I'm less fond of the 420 tubes. I think I'd like to go a bit softer, perhaps a 3 or 4 rating. Soooo what matched quartet should I purchase, and what note should I include on the order so the matched 6L6 quartet and MPI tube are "Myles Approved"? Thanks in advance.

Thanks, will do. Peace, Paul

Myles, V3, the reverb driver in my 135 Watt SF twin is always waaaay hotter than any other tube in the amp. It's always the first to die, too. Is this typical? Peace, Paul