bill5 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 I can't go try some out because the stores within any reasonable driving distance have little to none out so would appreciate feedback. What have you used (please don't just mention keyboards that fit my criteria, I already know most if not all of what's out there) and what did/didn't you like about them? My requirements are pretty reasonable but it seems to be elusive - a good keybed seems to be the biggest limiting factor. - Key bed that doesn't suck and is fairly quiet - On/off switch (sorry Arturia) - FULL transport controls (sorry Novation, M Audio) - Pitch and mod controls (should go without saying) - Full-sized keys (likewise) - Prefer semi-weighted but will settle for synth action I don't care about pads faders etc or size and weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Warren Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 I went through a similar process recently: https://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/3107957/controller-keyboard-suggestions-for-daw#Post3107957 I ended up getting the Arturia Keylab MK2 61. I'm happy with it. The Keylab MK2 series does have an on/off switch. Don't go for the Essential versions. They have a horrible action (and no power switch). Quote DigitalFakeBook Free chord/lyric display software for windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill5 Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Thanks! I'd just found your thread and was going through But $550 for 61 keys is more than I'm willing to pay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reezekeys Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 I don't care about pads faders etc or size and weight. Just an observation, but controllers that don't have pads & faders are typically the ones at the low end of a manufacturer's line. They're inexpensive but often lack an expression pedal input and are compromised in other ways too (like no channel aftertouch). I was gonna recommend the Roland A800 Pro (the keyboard I use, of course!) but it has those pads & faders you don't care about, though it probably meets all your other requirements. Good luck in your search! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoken6 Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 What's an A800Pro cost stateside - $300? Is that more within your budget? You can just ignore the bits you don't need. Cheers, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill5 Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 I don't care about pads faders etc or size and weight. Just an observation, but controllers that don't have pads & faders are typically the ones at the low end of a manufacturer's line. They're inexpensive but often lack an expression pedal input and are compromised in other ways too (like no channel aftertouch). I was gonna recommend the Roland A800 Pro (the keyboard I use, of course!) but it has those pads & faders you don't care about, though it probably meets all your other requirements. Good luck in your search! Clarifying, having pads/etc is fine, again I don't care either way...and I don't see any consistency of controllers at any price point in terms of having. Some have a little, some a lot. All I am really hoping for is one that meets requirements above at the best possible price point. $420 for the Roland A800 Pro here is more than I'd hoped to spend for only 61 keys, but I may have to reconsider my price point. I don't get why they don't have an A800 Pro 88-key version, instead you have to jump to the A88 for more than double the price. Are you happy with yours? Is the keybed fairly quiet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reezekeys Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 Clarifying, having pads/etc is fine, again I don't care either way...and I don't see any consistency of controllers at any price point in terms of having. Some have a little, some a lot. All I am really hoping for is one that meets requirements above at the best possible price point. $420 for the Roland A800 Pro here is more than I'd hoped to spend for only 61 keys, but I may have to reconsider my price point. Are you happy with yours? Is the keybed fairly quiet? I am happy with mine. It's my second - the first one had a USB jack that never gripped the cable tightly so there was always some play in the connection. After years of banging away using a stand that jiggled ever so slightly, the slight flex in the cable would eventually work the innards of the USB jack loose. My newer A800 does not have this issue and has been flown around the world in an old SKB case for a few years now. I don't consider the keybed noisy at all - then again, I'm usually wearing cans at home. I've never noticed or given any thought to the keybed noise on a gig either, although I've never A/B'd with other boards. Sitting in my dining room and plunking away now, the noise seems reasonably quiet - no "clack" at all. Maybe the two or three other users here will chime in with opinions about this. The only negatives I have (and I've learned to live with them and they don't bother me at all) are the ridiculously tiny LCD that's sometimes hard to read, and the weirdly obtuse system for setting up the keyboard single/dual/split modes. This is too long already but there's a thread here where myself and another user suss it out. Since I use a laptop rig I do all my splitting and layering in my host software anyway. The short story is that there are 19 "setup memories" where you assign all the controls to do what you want, but only three "keyboard setups." One more thing - most find the channel aftertouch response requires way too much pressure on the keys, and the only fix is to open the unit up and adjust a small trimpot, a pretty easy job. As far as the characteristics that imo matter most - keyboard feel and overall construction quality, my A800 has done right by me. I had to replace my first one only because I desoldered and re-soldered the USB jack one too many times! The circuit board was too chewed up to allow another replacement. My first A800 now lives at home where it's working just fine using the 5-pin midi jacks instead of USB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill5 Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Thanks! I've also read that apparently the keys are not full sized? That's a deal breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reezekeys Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 Thanks! I've also read that apparently the keys are not full sized? That's a deal breaker. I've heard that too but I happened to have some time on my hands and was curious, so I did some "investigating", lol. Below are two sets of pictures. The first is comparing the width of key tops, the second is measuring the span of an octave. On each set, the top picture is my A800 Pro and the bottom picture is my Steinway S. Did I measure perfectly? Is my $10 Harbor Freight caliper super-accurate? Probably not, but I think I did an OK enough job to at least answer anyone's concerns. Actually, I've never had any as far as keys size is concerned; I play my A800 more than any acoustic piano, but have never had an issue going between the two. As far as key length, my Steinway's white keys are 1/2" longer if you measure from where they extend from the fallboard- but this is a true grand piano action, in a real grand cabinet; I wouldn't expect a 10 lb, small 61-key semi-weighted keyboard to duplicate that. I measured the length of the surface area of the white key top that extends from the end of the black keys (i.e., the part your fingers would actually be pressing on!), and the Steinway's are only 1/16" inch longer. On to the pics. It looks like my Steinway's white key tops are 1 mm wider. However, the distance between octaves looks pretty much identical. The gaps between the A800's keys appear slightly larger, which explains how this could be the case. My takeaway is that the "not full sized" issue is a non-issue. It's true that due to where the fulcrum is, it might take more force to press a key further towards it's back end than what you'd need on a real grand. I've also read that the black keys need more force to get equivalent dynamics than the white. If that's the case, I haven't noticed it. Anyway, hope this helps you, or somebody!! It was enlightening for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowMan Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 +1 on Arturia I picked up a Keylab49 as a living room/backyard deck rig for playing around with my Ipad apps - and its been absolutely perfect for that. Easily able to map it for multiple apps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill5 Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 I've heard that too but I happened to have some time on my hands and was curious, so I did some "investigating", lol. Below are two sets of pictures. The first is comparing the width of key tops, the second is measuring the span of an octave. On each set, the top picture is my A800 Pro and the bottom picture is my Steinway S. Did I measure perfectly? Is my $10 Harbor Freight caliper super-accurate? Probably not, but I think I did an OK enough job to at least answer anyone's concerns. Actually, I've never had any as far as keys size is concerned; I play my A800 more than any acoustic piano, but have never had an issue going between the two. As far as key length, my Steinway's white keys are 1/2" longer if you measure from where they extend from the fallboard- but this is a true grand piano action, in a real grand cabinet; I wouldn't expect a 10 lb, small 61-key semi-weighted keyboard to duplicate that. I measured the length of the surface area of the white key top that extends from the end of the black keys (i.e., the part your fingers would actually be pressing on!), and the Steinway's are only 1/16" inch longer. On to the pics. It looks like my Steinway's white key tops are 1 mm wider. However, the distance between octaves looks pretty much identical. The gaps between the A800's keys appear slightly larger, which explains how this could be the case. My takeaway is that the "not full sized" issue is a non-issue. It's true that due to where the fulcrum is, it might take more force to press a key further towards it's back end than what you'd need on a real grand. I've also read that the black keys need more force to get equivalent dynamics than the white. If that's the case, I haven't noticed it. Anyway, hope this helps you, or somebody!! It was enlightening for me. It does! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenheeter Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 I have a Roland A800 Pro to sell if anyone's interested. I'm located in Kingston, Ontario, Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delaware Dave Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 I've been pretty satisfied with my M-Audio Code 61. What I like about it vs. the newer M-Audio controllers is that it has old style Midi in/out as well as USB Midi and it has an expression input. I also am getting quite comfortable with its semi-weighed keybed, I like its feel and response. They are not that expensive, weigh about 11 pounds and are not really that hard to find even though the line has been discontinued. Quote 57 Hammond B3; 69 Hammond L100P; 68 Leslie 122; Kurzweil Forte7 & PC3; M-Audio Code 61; Voce V5+; Neo Vent; EV ELX112P; GSI Gemini & Burn Delaware Dave Exit93band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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