acoustic guitar quality guide

[Portland Guitar]

I'm a luthier in Portland and I thought I'd throw done some of my knowledge about acoustic guitars to create a guide to checking one in a shop.

 

When deciding if I've finished an acoustic guitar I'll go over it a look for around 15 things related to musicality, playability and quality. I thought I'd turn that checklist into a guide that others can use to evaluate instruments. I aimed this as a guide to explain to someone looking to buy a guitar what to look for. There's a lot of text, too much for this post. So here is the list below and you can check out more here: acoustic guitar buying guide

 

The list that I go through is:

 

Top quality , back and sides quality, tuning ease, bridge pin ease, fretboard buzz, fretboard dead spots, neck shape preference, action preference, measuring stiffness of the top and back, mass consideration, evenness of finish, craftsmanship details, intonation quality, pickup quality.

[KuruPrionz]

Welcome Portland Guitar!!!!

 

I've built a few guitars, mostly electric and a couple of acoustics. It's been a long time. Meanwhile, I've repaired, customized, bought and sold LOTS of guitars of all types over the decades.

 

I'd like to add a few thoughts to your what you've posted. First, it has not been uncommon in my experience for a new guitar to need a setup that suits the new owner. Changing the string guage and type to the preferred ones can mean fret buzz or high action until the truss rod is adjusted (if there is one, I've grown to prefer the tone of guitars with non-adjustable truss bars or stiff necks). I've had players want to lower or raise the action depending on their style and the purpose of the guitar. None of those things are set in stone (except the truss rod/stiff neck specs) and can be changed. A guitar that spends it's life in a drier climate may need the fret ends filed down just a bit as the wood shrinks.

 

Guitarists should chose by tone first, then body shape and then their preferred woods, bearing in mind that changing the woods will change the tone of the instrument. Tuners can be easily changed or upgraded, last year I installed a set of locking Graph-Tec Radius tuners and those were the nicest for consistent, even, easy tuning that I've tried so far. At a certain price point, nobody makes bad tuners anymore. Below that point, all bets are off. As always, some will prefer one brand over another, they are correct for themselves.

 

Wood? Not always! My two favorite guitars for the last 10+ years are both Rainsong and 100% graphite. I've got an OM1000 6 string and a WS3000 12 string. They both sound fantastic and play very easily. The necks cannot be adjusted and they never need to be adjusted. I've got quite a few friends who want me to sell them my guitars but I'd just have to get more of the same and the older all graphite models are getting harder to find.

 

I might think of something else but it's a good start. Cheers, Kuru

[Portland Guitar]

That's really interesting, how much do the graphite guitars cost? I know macpherson has a few but those are spendy.

[KuruPrionz]

https://www.rainsong.com

Ironically, they are in Woodenville and there is no wood in their guitars at all.

 

At the time I bought my OM1000, full price was $2,250, retail was around $1,800. A friend was selling one for his dad and put it on craigslist. I paid $900 for it.

Recently I installed a K&K Pro Mini pickup and removed the LR Baggs Element system. I hated the Baggs, just not an organic sound even though the guitar sounds great.

What amazed me was how much better it sounded after pulling the under saddle pickup and putting in a bone saddle that is seated on the bottom of the saddle slot. Wow!!! it really came to life.

The K&K is a more natural sounding pickup and the way too loud B string problem is solved by positioning the high string pickup under the E string. Much more even response plugged in, good enough to record direct.

 

I've had the WS3000 even longer, the end of my quest for a 12 string acoustic guitar that I could truly love. At the time I bought it, full price was $3,200 more or less. I don't know what they sold for in stores.

It was sold on eBay, a store back east sold it to a customer who traded it in 6 months later. I paid close to $1,800 and worth every penny. I did take the bridge down a bit and to the extent possible I intonated the saddle.

With extra light strings it can be tuned to standard pitch without any problems. Stays in tune so well it's stupid. I almost never have to tune it and it never takes much to get it back to correct pitch. Just a treasure, one of my favorites.

 

I don't know if they still make 100% graphite guitars, I think they may be using other composites for back and sides and maybe the necks, at least on some models.

New prices, I have no idea.

 

Highly recommend you hunt one down and play it. The trebles are clear and defined all the way up the neck but there is still a rich and full sound. I would never have believed a plastic guitar could sound so amazing until I owned one. After about 6 years of my beloved 1970 Martin D-35 sitting in the case untouched, I sold it. I knew I would probably not be playing it much ever again and somebody needs to play it - truly a great Martin.

[KuruPrionz]

I will mention that my WS-3000 12 string was shipped from Ohio to Bellingham WA tuned to pitch and it arrived ready to play with no flat or sharp notes.

That is insane. And true...

[KuruPrionz]

Attached photo of my graphite guitars.

 

I used to have a Moses graphite Tele neck but it wasn't a good fit for me. Great neck for somebody.

[Portland Guitar]

That's amazing. I've heard that graphite sounds glassy in the high ends. I really want to find one and study it!

[KuruPrionz]

That's amazing. I've heard that graphite sounds glassy in the high ends. I really want to find one and study it!

 

I'm not sure "glassy" is the right word. The highs are present, even and very clear all the way up the neck. The lows are really high fidelity as well, at least on my OM and WS, I haven't played the non-cutaway dreadnaught or jumbo, those shapes can be boomy in wood guitars.

 

I sort of wanted to dislike plastic guitars but the first time I played one I decided they were awesome. That has not changed. I've never missed my old Martin, the buyer was delighted with it so I hope he enjoys it!