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Tips for rack electronics?


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This is something I've never properly got to grips with, gigging with a MIDI controller and rack unit with modules. How do you sort out all the external power supplies, mountains of cable etc. and fix it down in the back of the rack so it doesn't rattle about in transport?

 

Currently reconfiguring my rack. The enclosure is 4U and has 3 x 1u units in it: two sound modules (one deep one medium) and a rackmount mixer (very shallow). The mixer has an internal power supply and standard IEC lead, but the sound modules both have external power supplies conveniently place halfway along the power lead. One is reasonably small and light but the other is a massive heavy lump.

 

I've mounted the deep sound module in the top of the rack, the medium one under that and the shallow mixer under that. So there's 1u of free space all along the bottom, with a gradually increasing amount as you move back through the rack and the units get progressively shorter, through to the full 4U for the last couple of inches. This leaves the bottom free for fixing things to, and plenty of space for the power supplies etc. plus space to get my hands in and patch things in and out of the mixer when necessary.

 

I now need to get all three units plugged into a multi-socket extension lead and fix the lead, plus the modules' power supplies, to the enclosure for safe transport, leaving the single lead of the multi-socket extension to come out of the rack and plug into house power. In the past whenever I've done this it's always been an unholy mess involving unconventional use of nuts and bolts, brackets and adhesives, much of it screwed or glued to the enclosure itself leaving it looking crappy the next time. (This however is a new enclosure). Would quite like to do it more elegantly, if there is a way. Any tips?

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If you have wall warts, a Furman Plug lock is essential. I'll screw this to the side of the rack near the back, just inside the back cover. And for gear that uses standard IEC-3 (computer style) power cables, replace those with short 1 or 2 footers. For internal connections use the shortest audio and MIDI patch cables you can.

 

Since you have a couple lump-in-the-middle supplies, screw some of these zip tie anchors into the inside of your rack and secure the power supples to the side of the rack that way. And if the power supply has detachable power cables, replace those with shorties. Basically you want to minimize the length of any cable that you can, and then use zip ties and anchors to bolt everything down.

 

You can't really do this with SKB racks so I prefer the regular carpet-on-wood types. For a 4U rack the weight differential would be negligible anyway.

 

You had noted that your deepest rack item is at the top. I usually try to do it the other way with the deepest on bottom, but really doesn't matter that much. You will probably find that it's easiest to mark the mounting locations for stuff with the gear all racked, then unpack everything so you have room to work and fasten power supplies and power strips down, and then re-rack everything and connect it all up.

 

03-52885.jpg

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If you have wall warts, a Furman Plug lock is essential. I'll screw this to the side of the rack near the back, just inside the back cover. And for gear that uses standard IEC-3 (computer style) power cables, replace those with short 1 or 2 footers. For internal connections use the shortest audio and MIDI patch cables you can.

 

That Furman looks like a brilliant idea but no, there's no wall warts. Just those damn PITA line lumps.

 

Since you have a couple lump-in-the-middle supplies, screw some of these zip tie anchors into the inside of your rack and secure the power supples to the side of the rack that way. And if the power supply has detachable power cables, replace those with shorties. Basically you want to minimize the length of any cable that you can, and then use zip ties and anchors to bolt everything down.

 

You can't really do this with SKB racks so I prefer the regular carpet-on-wood types. For a 4U rack the weight differential would be negligible anyway.

 

Yep, it's a standard plywood rack.

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Rack shelf. Cable ties.

 

Ha, you've given me a clever idea.

 

I was about to order a rack shelf like you suggested, when I remembered that I have one of those 1u pull-out drawer things kicking about from ages ago. So what I've down is mount it in the bottom space, but back-to-front, so the back rack ears are mounted to the front of the rack and the drawer can be pulled out the back. That way I figure if I allow just a little slack in the cables between modules and power supplies, I can cable-tie all the power-supplies and multi-socket lead to the drawer, and then I can pull the drawer out the back if I need to tinker with anything, or just to get it out of the way when I want to repatch the mixer.

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Rack shelf. Cable ties.

 

Ha, you've given me a clever idea.

 

I was about to order a rack shelf like you suggested, when I remembered that I have one of those 1u pull-out drawer things kicking about from ages ago. So what I've down is mount it in the bottom space, but back-to-front, so the back rack ears are mounted to the front of the rack and the drawer can be pulled out the back. That way I figure if I allow just a little slack in the cables between modules and power supplies, I can cable-tie all the power-supplies and multi-socket lead to the drawer, and then I can pull the drawer out the back if I need to tinker with anything, or just to get it out of the way when I want to repatch the mixer.

 

Perfect.

Moe

---

 

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Get yourself a bunch of these: https://www.amazon.com/6-Inch-Power-Extension-5-Pack-Outlet/dp/B00DVRUTXW/ref=asc_df_B00DVRUTXW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4838027801951794085&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009736&hvtargid=pla-309635891176&psc=1

 

You can use every slot in a power strip if you insert one of these short "pigtail" extension cords between the wall wart and the power strip. Zip tie everything securely, and you'll be good to go.

 

Lou

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Rack shelf. Cable ties.

 

1906120101a.jpg

Make sure you check the weight before buying and can live with it. I ordered a steel one like this and it"s as heavy as the unit I was mounting.

The fact there's a Highway To Hell and only a Stairway To Heaven says a lot about anticipated traffic numbers

 

People only say "It's a free country" when they're doing something shitty-Demetri Martin

 

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Rack shelf. Cable ties.

 

Ha, you've given me a clever idea.

 

I was about to order a rack shelf like you suggested, when I remembered that I have one of those 1u pull-out drawer things kicking about from ages ago. So what I've down is mount it in the bottom space, but back-to-front, so the back rack ears are mounted to the front of the rack and the drawer can be pulled out the back. That way I figure if I allow just a little slack in the cables between modules and power supplies, I can cable-tie all the power-supplies and multi-socket lead to the drawer, and then I can pull the drawer out the back if I need to tinker with anything, or just to get it out of the way when I want to repatch the mixer.

 

Yep - done that in mine for years - I've changed rack sizes several times but always end up with a tray in the bottom for power and loom leads with the mains cables visible, then you can push them back in or pull out in an emergency

Yamaha CP70B;Roland XP30/AXSynth/Fantom/FA76/XR;Hammond XK3C SK2; Korg Kronos 73;ProSoloist Rack+; ARP ProSoloist; Mellotron M4000D; GEM Promega2; Hohner Pianet N, Roland V-Grand,Voyager XL, RMI
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Rack Drawers are also very useful. This one is metal, and as best I can tell is just under 16lbs - LINK

 

 

I used these two plastic ones for over 20 years but I doubt anyone makes ones like it any longer. They are super light. I kept MIDI splitters, a Voyce MIDI controller, a JL Cooper FaderMaster, and this Kawai K1M.

 

 

2RfDUG0.jpg

The fact there's a Highway To Hell and only a Stairway To Heaven says a lot about anticipated traffic numbers

 

People only say "It's a free country" when they're doing something shitty-Demetri Martin

 

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