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Super light 2-board rigs


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Kross 2 is a nice board, and I love the weight. If playing a 2-way split (bass + whatever),

 

I'd be curious to know if there is indeed a way to quickly shift the octave of just your right-hand sound up or down, and also a way to change your right hand sound without glitching your LH bass playing, and also to quickly adjust the volume of your bass and RH sounds individually. It was not immediately apparent to me that these things would be possible, but I've spent very little time on one.

 

Easily solved by creating a Combi, then copy it to the next user bank and change the octave thus a simple switch from one Combi to the next but remember the Kross 2 does not have SST.

 

On the fly individual volume changes in a Kross 2 Combi is not easily possible.

 

SST? is that the same as patch remain?

 

you can program the KROSS 2 to pretty much do whatever you need it to do. For volume control you can assign one of the splits to the Mod wheel to control it's own volume while the main volume can control both levels. Or you can assign one of the splits to a volume pedal if it's necessary to have completely independent controls. It takes time and not very "on the fly" but I've found a way to do everything I need to do on this board. It's very pliable - but it takes a little effort to get under the hood (not for everyone I realize). I'm on a budget so I don't mind spending the time.

 

You can assign octave switches easily to the SW buttons on the KROSS 2. Switching patches, like you said, can be done by saving 2 combis next to each other. There are other ways it can be done that I know of (not off the top of my head) but I saw a couple tutorials where someone was able to switch sounds within a COMBI. So again, this board is a crazy little beast for the $$$, and lightweight :)))

dreamcommander.bandcamp.com

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SST? is that the same as patch remain?
Yes, Korg calls it "smooth sound transition." As is so often the case, companies have their own names for things. Yamaha uses SSS ("seamless sound switching"). Roland has multiple names, patch remain in some boards, tone remain in others. Some boards from other manufactures can also do it to some extent or another but may not have specific catchy names for it. It is a weakness of the Kross, though. All the other boards in my OP except the Numa Compact 2X have some ability to switch sounds from front panel buttons without the previous sound cutting out. Korg's Microstation can do it, but not Kross. (Numa Compact 2 can do it--albeit from within a very small selection of sounds--but not the 2X.)

 

you can program the KROSS 2 to pretty much do whatever you need it to do. For volume control you can assign one of the splits to the Mod wheel to control it's own volume while the main volume can control both levels. Or you can assign one of the splits to a volume pedal if it's necessary to have completely independent controls. It takes time and not very "on the fly" but I've found a way to do everything I need to do on this board. It's very pliable - but it takes a little effort to get under the hood (not for everyone I realize). I'm on a budget so I don't mind spending the time.

The Juno DS is about the same price (a little cheaper, actually) and is much better for this. (Of course, the Kross is much better for other things, like its sequencer and MIDI functionalities.) The problem with the mod wheel or pedal solutions mentioned are (a) unlike on the Juno, you'd lose the ability to then use the mod control or expression pedal for something else, and (b) you have to set this up in advance for every possible combination of two sounds you might ever want, as opposed to just being able to pick any two sounds at any time, split/layer them, and have instant front panel control of the volumes of each of the sounds. ETA: though for the latter, I suppose you could call up the one combi you'd initially set up this way, and edit which sounds are in it, to pretty quickly have the same assignments apply to a different pair of sounds. I'm not sure how feasible that is to do within a song (or even just between songs) at a gig, though...? But as you kind of say, not everyone needs these kinds of facilities on the fly.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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Folks,

 

there is a lot of info here and I thank everyone for weighing in on my question. I have lots to think about and will probably have some additional questions.

 

Thanks, Mike

My Rig: Stage Piano: Korg Grandstage 73 - Organ: Hammond SKx - Amps: Motion Sound KP-500s - Mixer: Yamaha MGU10
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SST? is that the same as patch remain?
Yes, Korg calls it "smooth sound transition." As is so often the case, companies have their own names for things. Yamaha uses SSS ("seamless sound switching"). Roland has multiple names, patch remain in some boards, tone remain in others. Some boards from other manufactures can also do it to some extent or another but may not have specific catchy names for it. It is a weakness of the Kross, though. All the other boards in my OP except the Numa Compact 2X have some ability to switch sounds from front panel buttons without the previous sound cutting out. Korg's Microstation can do it, but not Kross. (Numa Compact 2 can do it--albeit from within a very small selection of sounds--but not the 2X.)

 

you can program the KROSS 2 to pretty much do whatever you need it to do. For volume control you can assign one of the splits to the Mod wheel to control it's own volume while the main volume can control both levels. Or you can assign one of the splits to a volume pedal if it's necessary to have completely independent controls. It takes time and not very "on the fly" but I've found a way to do everything I need to do on this board. It's very pliable - but it takes a little effort to get under the hood (not for everyone I realize). I'm on a budget so I don't mind spending the time.

The Juno DS is about the same price (a little cheaper, actually) and is much better for this. (Of course, the Kross is much better for other things, like its sequencer and MIDI functionalities.) The problem with the mod wheel or pedal solutions mentioned are (a) unlike on the Juno, you'd lose the ability to then use the mod control or expression pedal for something else, and (b) you have to set this up in advance for every possible combination of two sounds you might ever want, as opposed to just being able to pick any two sounds at any time, split/layer them, and have instant front panel control of the volumes of each of the sounds. ETA: though for the latter, I suppose you could call up the one combi you'd initially set up this way, and edit which sounds are in it, to pretty quickly have the same assignments apply to a different pair of sounds. I'm not sure how feasible that is to do within a song (or even just between songs) at a gig, though...? But as you kind of say, not everyone needs these kinds of facilities on the fly.

 

Yes, sounds like the JUNO DS is the better choice in this situation. I actually really like those boards - we have them at the music school I work at.

dreamcommander.bandcamp.com

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Great thread, folks!

I'm using the Electro 5D to handle the piano and most organ stuff (I have a ton of organs in MainStage including the B3-X...for when I need a heavy, overdriven sound).

The additional samples in the 5D are also useful, though I much prefer the sounds I get from MainStage. So, I'm looking for a lightweight top board (49 keys pref) to handle synths and samples (and occasional organ duties) from MainStage.

It would be so nice if I could get both boards really close to each other.

Your thoughts?

Tom

Nord Electro 5D, Modal Cobalt 8, Yamaha upright piano, numerous plug-ins...

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I'm using the Electro 5D to handle the piano and most organ stuff (I have a ton of organs in MainStage including the B3-X...for when I need a heavy, overdriven sound).

The additional samples in the 5D are also useful, though I much prefer the sounds I get from MainStage. So, I'm looking for a lightweight top board (49 keys pref) to handle synths and samples (and occasional organ duties) from MainStage.

If it's strictly to play sounds from Mainstage (and doesn't need any sounds of its own), maybe the Samson Graphite 49. Decent synth action with aftertouch, compact/light, lots of definable controls, well-priced. Its big limitation is that you can't program its 16 buttons to do the things I'd want them to do (AFAIK)... send a definable program change, and/or change which channel the board is transmitting on. There are ways to send program changes and change channels, of course, but not as conveniently. Might that work for you?

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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Great thread, folks!

I'm using the Electro 5D to handle the piano and most organ stuff (I have a ton of organs in MainStage including the B3-X...for when I need a heavy, overdriven sound).

The additional samples in the 5D are also useful, though I much prefer the sounds I get from MainStage. So, I'm looking for a lightweight top board (49 keys pref) to handle synths and samples (and occasional organ duties) from MainStage.

It would be so nice if I could get both boards really close to each other.

Your thoughts?

I hear you. I have a NE 5d 73 as well and would like to add a second small board for synth. Unfortunately there's no room on top of the NE5d to put a second, even small board so I would have to continue carry a two-tier stand which kind of defeats the objective of maximizing portability and minimizing set-up time.

Gigs: Nord 5D 73, Kurz PC4-7 & SP4-7, Hammond SK1, Yamaha MX88 & P121, Numa Compact 2x, Casio CGP700, QSC K12, Yamaha DBR10, JBL515xt(2). Alto TS310(2)

 

 

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there's no room on top of the NE5d to put a second, even small board so I would have to continue carry a two-tier stand which kind of defeats the objective of maximizing portability and minimizing set-up time.
That's what's nice about a stand like the K&M 18880/18881...super light, moves and sets up as one piece even in its two-tier configuration.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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I'm obsessive about getting boards close to each other in a 2-board rig. I want them as close as possible, ideally so it feels like playing a Hammond console (regardless of what sounds I'm using). In part this is because I like my gigging ergonomics to be the same as my practicing ergonomics. In a gig there's enough adrenaline that having hands farther apart doesn't feel unreasonable. But practicing that way can be super annoying.

 

If you have to use controls on the bottom board then that's obviously a limiting factor. The type of stand you use is also a limiting factor. The best "off the shelf" stand I've found for this is the Invisible, which is no longer made. I used to have 2 of them. Selling them was one of the worst decisions I've ever made.

 

Aside from the Invisible stand, the On Stage WS stand with the Tony Orant mod can be great for getting boards as close as possible. If you read the post Scott references at the top of this thread, you already saw my pics. But I'll post them again below. Whether and how this approach works is going depend on the boards you're trying to stack. Might be necessary to rest the front of the top board on some kind of improvised support like what I've used here. Because the MX is just a midi note source, it doesn't matter that the controls are completely covered.

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Gigging: Crumar Mojo 61, Hammond SKPro

Home: Vintage Vibe 64

 

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there's no room on top of the NE5d to put a second, even small board so I would have to continue carry a two-tier stand which kind of defeats the objective of maximizing portability and minimizing set-up time.
That's what's nice about a stand like the K&M 18880/18881...super light, moves and sets up as one piece even in its two-tier configuration.
Yeah, I'm familiar with that K&M stand set-up but its pretty expensive and I'm "thrifty" (i.e. cheap). I may have to just nut-up, spend the bucks, and buy it. I'm too old to be messing with heavy gear, including stands.

Gigs: Nord 5D 73, Kurz PC4-7 & SP4-7, Hammond SK1, Yamaha MX88 & P121, Numa Compact 2x, Casio CGP700, QSC K12, Yamaha DBR10, JBL515xt(2). Alto TS310(2)

 

 

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Yes, Adan, I like keeping the keys close when possible too, which is why I've stuck with the Invisibles, and the K&M 18880 with the 18881 stacker flipped backwards which very much simulates the layout of the Invisible., though a little modification could be in order depending on the height of your bottom board. It also gives certain bottom boards and advantage in their lack of deep control surfaces that you need to maintain access too. This works in favor of the Numa Compact 2/2X. most if not all of the Casio 88s, Korg SV1/SV2, for example.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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I'm another one that has always wanted my keyboards as close together as possible. Since day one, (which was a long time ago) I've always built my own stands to custom fit whatever I was using at the time, because I could never find anything that was exactly what I wanted. Some have been metal, some wood, and some a combination of the two. (I've always played standing up.)

 

Most 2 or 3 tier stands position the top board(s) at a downward angle as well, which is bad. Really, they should slant the other way so your wrist is relaxed. Building stands eliminates all those issues.

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I'm another one that has always wanted my keyboards as close together as possible. Since day one, (which was a long time ago) I've always built my own stands to custom fit whatever I was using at the time, because I could never find anything that was exactly what I wanted. Some have been metal, some wood, and some a combination of the two. (I've always played standing up.)

 

Most 2 or 3 tier stands position the top board(s) at a downward angle as well, which is bad. Really, they should slant the other way so your wrist is relaxed. Building stands eliminates all those issues.

Cool, please share photos and approximate amount of time and money it took to roll your own.

Numa Piano X73 /// Kawai ES920 /// Casio CT-X5000 /// Yamaha EW425

Yamaha Melodica and Alto Recorder

QSC K8.2 // JBL Eon One Compact // Soundcore Motion Boom Plus 

Win10 laptop i7 8GB // iPad Pro 9.7" 32GB

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Img 2.jpg

I'm another one that has always wanted my keyboards as close together as possible. Since day one, (which was a long time ago) I've always built my own stands to custom fit whatever I was using at the time, because I could never find anything that was exactly what I wanted. Some have been metal, some wood, and some a combination of the two. (I've always played standing up.)

 

Most 2 or 3 tier stands position the top board(s) at a downward angle as well, which is bad. Really, they should slant the other way so your wrist is relaxed. Building stands eliminates all those issues.

Cool, please share photos and approximate amount of time and money it took to roll your own.

 

 

Well, most of them don't exist anymore as I keep changing things up as my gear changes.

 

One that I still have is a lightweight "shell" that holds two 61 key controllers. It's sitting on my main desk right now, but it can easily be placed on top of any portable stand. I made that when I was primarily using a few rack mount synths.

 

I'm planning to build something one of these days to hold 3 boards. Right now they're grouped together using two stands. The front stand is just a basic X stand. Behind that is a steel stand I made that's holding up the other two. It's made out of 1/2" rigid steel electrical conduit and fittings. It's seen a lot of use in various configurations as I threw that together over 35 years ago!

 

Other than paint, I've generally managed to build everything with material I've had laying around. I built my main desk as well. (Had to buy wood and rack hardware for that.)

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Great ideas and suggestions, folks!

I'd love to be able to keep my K & M Spider Pro...and try to fabricate something to hold the second keyboard up behind the first.

I'm going to bounce between the Gibraltar site and Home Depot (hahaha) and see what I can fabricate...

If nothing good then I will sell my SpiderPro and get the other one that K & M make.

One other option would be to find an older 2 manual organ clone and relegate it to the role of MIDI controller...

But they seem to be very rare, and when you find one it's usually overpriced...

Tom

Nord Electro 5D, Modal Cobalt 8, Yamaha upright piano, numerous plug-ins...

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One other option would be to find an older 2 manual organ clone and relegate it to the role of MIDI controller...

But they seem to be very rare, and when you find one it's usually overpriced...

A 2-manual clone is a nice way to get a 2-keybed rig with well-placed keybeds and that will fit on a single-board stand. But they tend to be kind of heavy themselves. You also have to be sure that you can set the keys to send velocity, which an organ-only unit might not do, especially an older one. You could also look for a GSI DMC-122.

 

Something not too pricey or heavy might be to use the Crumar Mojo61 Lower Manual under your Electro. Check the thread at https://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/3008510/re-using-lower-manual-of-crumar-mojo-61-as-a-controller - no pitch/mod wheels, but you don't typically get that with a dual manual clone, either.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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A 2-manual clone is a nice way to get a 2-keybed rig with well-placed keybeds and that will fit on a single-board stand. But they tend to be kind of heavy themselves. .
That's exactly why I sold my SK2. The board was 35 lbs. and by the time I put it in its 25 lb. hard case with accessories, the load was 65 lbs. I threw my old back out hauling it up to a second floor gig. I got rid of it for that reason. Despite the fact that I really liked the SK2, it simply was not practical as a gigging solution for me.

Gigs: Nord 5D 73, Kurz PC4-7 & SP4-7, Hammond SK1, Yamaha MX88 & P121, Numa Compact 2x, Casio CGP700, QSC K12, Yamaha DBR10, JBL515xt(2). Alto TS310(2)

 

 

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Due to a forced change into a smaller motor vehicle, my previous 2 keyboard rig wont fit. So in an effort to reduce size of rig and minimize purchases, im going to use my Roland FA08 with a very old MAudio 61key midi controller i have lying around. My only concern is not having a backup in the unlikely event of the FA08 dying at a gig. Am thinking an ipad with Korg module just to scrape through a gig should be enough.
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Due to a forced change into a smaller motor vehicle, my previous 2 keyboard rig wont fit.

Yeah, physical size is another different-but-related consideration to light weight, whether its for vehicle size or public transport or constrained stage spaces. Numerous people over the years have posted about wanting 7x-key boards simply because 88 is too wide for them.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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My lightest rigs have been either an SK-1 or a FA-06 on top of a Yamaha MODX7, with a lightweight stand I can carry the whole rig...

My issue with a MODX7 on bottom is that I can't get on with its action for piano work. I wonder if it might be better to use the SK1 to trigger the MODX' pianos, I think it might have your most piano amenable action of the bunch?

I thought you had replied to me about being able to adapt to the MODX7 for piano, but I guess that comment was from someone/somewhere else. Regardless, I was motivated to see what I could do. I chose the S700 patch and played with the velocity curve settings (ending up with Offset 83, Depth 44)... now very workable for me, completely got rid of notes either jumping out or disappearing. It doesn't feel quite as nice as the Vox Continental, but it's good enough, and much more versatile (both in terms of what it can do, and in the variety of scenarios where I'd make use if it), and it's even lighter, and I already own it. ;-) And it's only .7 lbs more than the Numa Compact 2X. I lose the aftertouch, the 88 keys, a couple of other things, but it's so much better overall.

 

In terms of what to put above it, from my original list, the MX49 doesn't make much sense, providing no new sonic territory. But the others mentioned remain good potential matches... Kross 2 (lightest), AX-Edge (aftertouch, keytar fun, and almost as light), Juno DS (more suitable for LH bass), and I have to admit the VR09 tempts me a bit again, with all the tricks the CTRLR editor adds... it specifically provides the clonewheel and VA the MODX7 lacks, at only about 12 lbs. One compromise of the MODX7 is that, as a bottom, its deep control panel would prevent me from getting the top board as close as I'd like... though I think that could be addressed somewhat by putting it on top even though it is servicing the typical purpose of a bottom. Especially with the AX-Edge underneath, I should be able to get the two actions pretty close.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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I've also been considering something compact for 2nd tier of a light rig, and the VR09 is a possibility. Even used it's a little more than I'd want to spend though. Bottom tier is a Stage 3, 76; that covers a lot of territory, but it would be useful to have something else to grab for extra parts (vs always splitting the Nord). A used UltraNova would also cover well (especially with the bread 'n butter samples onboard), though I'd miss the additional clonewheel section - which would be helpful when not wanting to split LH org/RH piano on the NS3 (which often causes too much, " Where am I at on the keyboard? " thinking, while playing). Might be workable to assign the UN keyboard to control one of the NS3 sections, though the 37 keys could present other part limits. I wish there was a cheap, 49 key option with a versatile, built-in sound set (including at least several passable drawbar organ patches).

 

I had access to a VR09 for the past couple of years, and did a bit of programming for it - all courtesy of my church music directing gig, but that ended this past Sunday. With the Covid-19 situation forcing the church down to one service, and my being one of two on the music staff, I lost the seniority battle. So no use of a VR-09. And my new, church accompanying gig does have a synth, but it's a Kronos 88 :laugh:.

Last VR-09 I saw on Reverb was in the mid $600s, though I made dig around a little more now and see if there are any other deals to be found.

'Someday, we'll look back on these days and laugh; likely a maniacal laugh from our padded cells, but a laugh nonetheless' - Mr. Boffo.

 

We need a barfing cat emoticon!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I've also been considering something compact for 2nd tier of a light rig, and the VR09 is a possibility. Even used it's a little more than I'd want to spend though...I wish there was a cheap, 49 key option with a versatile, built-in sound set (including at least several passable drawbar organ patches)...Last VR-09 I saw on Reverb was in the mid $600s

Allan Evett might recommend a Casio XW-P1.

 

https://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2874647/re-roland-vr-09-vs-casio-xw-p1#Post2874647

 

There's one on Reverb for $360+$20 shpg.

 

That's a board that also deserves mention in this thread, too bad it appears to have been discontinued. As a top, at under 12 lbs, it's lighter than any of the 61s I mentioned except the Kross. It's a capable 4-zone MIDI controller, it has 9 sliders that send MIDI cc, some really nice synth abilities (the solo synth section and hexlayers), and a convenient place to put an iPad. Its drawbar organ is "passable" as long as you stay away from the overdrive. (Or add an iPad and B3X... and you can still make use of the 9 sliders on-board.) When looking at the other lightweight tops I mentioned originally, its advantages are in organ/synth/MIDI, while others are likely to beat it on many of the acoustic instrument tones. But the MIDI functions along with the convenient iPad placement could address that. (As for the left hand bass variable I mentioned, I'm not sure how the Casio acquits itself there.)

 

Back to comparing it to the VR09, the Casio's 100 user patch locations are all button-selectable (instead of just the first 16), and IIRC can also be recalled over MIDI, which you can't do on the Roland. The Casio is also better at splits/layers (of both internal and external sounds) and has on-board synth editing (as well as available editors). I think it also lets you pan sounds to one output or the other. OTOH, VR09 beats XWP1 sonically on organ and most (all?) acoustic sounds, and has some more pleasing aesthetics/ergonomics... e.g. drawbars instead of sliders (albeit ones that send sysex instead of CC), more modern display, button sizing/layout/labeling that is a bit more "musical instrument" and a bit less "computer". The Casio would be lower priced.... unless you have to factor in the cost of an iPad or similar to beef up the acoustic/organ sounds to at least VR calibre. Of course, lots of people already own an iOS device. I'm not sure how the availability of the CTRLR editor would affect the pros and cons of VR09 vs XWP1, but if the VR is out of budget, that's moot.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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Thanks for the input, guys!

 

I did have use of a XW-P1, 2011-12, when the manufacturer's rep I worked for was the Casio rep in the Rockies. Yep, great synth section; the rest being average to above average. Likely wouldn't go that route now.

I have a 61-key controller that I use for teaching - connected to an older MacBook Pro. The controller only sends MIDI via USB, and so far I haven't found a simple solution for getting a USB B port to connect to 5-pin MIDI In. I might look at 49-61 key controllers with 5-pin MIDI connections though. But I'd also thought it would be useful to have a separate sound source as a back up for the Nord, which believe it or not did go down live once, then resisted rebooting.

'Someday, we'll look back on these days and laugh; likely a maniacal laugh from our padded cells, but a laugh nonetheless' - Mr. Boffo.

 

We need a barfing cat emoticon!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Allan - why not just run a controller and drive the Nord sounds via MIDI (Dual Keyboard)? You've obviously considered that, so where is the Nord lacking for you?

Besides what Allan said about his specific situation, just in general, I'd prefer something with its own sounds AND the ability to drive a sound from the Nord as called for. The Nord is not the most accommodating host. It's multitimbral capabilities are limited (two organ, 2 piano, two other synth/sampled sounds), and there are restrictions as to what you can do in dual kb mode. As you may know, the Nord has two panels, each with a max of one each of those three families of sounds. Dual KB mode allows you to use the remote keyboard to play an organ from its second panel, a piano from its second panel, a synth/sampled sound from it's second panel, or the entire second panel (consisting of 1, 2 or all 3 of those sounds).

 

If you compare that to the typical multitimbral board where you might drive some sounds externally using a MIDI channel you are not triggering from the board's own keys, there are some significant differences/limitations here. One is that whatever sections you're playing from the controller (a second organ part, a second piano part, a second synth/sampled part, or a combination of the three) become unavailable on the Nord itself (so for example, if you use the remote board to play one of the Nord's synth/sampled sounds, the Nord itself--having just one synth/sampled sound left--loses the ability to split/layer any two sounds unless one of them is an organ or piano). Another is that the remote board can't send Program Changes to alter these sounds, they can only be changed in conjunction with a patch change on the Nord itself.

 

Basically, it comes down to the fact that the Nord is not designed as a multitimbral workstation. Its dual-kb functions are more for specific application, like playing a Nord piano sound with an external hammer action or playing a Nord organ sound with an external non-hammer action (depending on which Nord you have), or playing a dual manual organ configuration. It can do some other things, but it's really not ideal as a simultaneous general purpose sound source for another board.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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The controller only sends MIDI via USB, and so far I haven't found a simple solution for getting a USB B port to connect to 5-pin MIDI In.
There are a number of companies that make those adapters, they're all about the same, and pretty simple... USB from controller to adapter, MIDI cable(s) from adapter to your other board, plus a wall wart to power the adapter. There is a consideration, though, that you are introducing numerous new possible points of failure.

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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I'd prefer something with its own sounds AND the ability to drive a sound from the Nord as called for.
I can understand that. I just wondered whether Allan needed the range of capabilities that you do. Allan's post suggested a relatively simple application - an extra playing surface to avoid splitting (with clonewheel capability).

 

Cheers, Mike.

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Allan's post suggested a relatively simple application - an extra playing surface to avoid splitting (with clonewheel capability).

Yes (and your solution was even kind of mentioned when he said "Might be workable to assign the UN keyboard to control one of the NS3 sections")... though he also said "but it would be useful to have something else to grab for extra parts (vs always splitting the Nord)" which is where a controller alone approach may be a weakness with the Nord's architecture in particular, because assigning a sound to be played from the controller still means, essentially, splitting the Nord. That's basically what I was trying to say there, except in too many words. ;-)

Maybe this is the best place for a shameless plug! Our now not-so-new new video at https://youtu.be/3ZRC3b4p4EI is a 40 minute adaptation of T. S. Eliot's "Prufrock" - check it out! And hopefully I'll have something new here this year. ;-)

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I love my VOX Continental 73 as a bottom board on my K&M 18880/81 stand. For heavy organ gigs a NE 6D goes on top...if I want to travel lighter it"s an MOXF6. Everything in soft bags - road cases stay home.

 

(Love everything about the VOX but the organs. Usable, but not great.)

 

Of course with the B3X app now configured for VOX drawbar control, this will be my new light gig rig when gigging resumes. The NE or MOXF will remain in the case as backup.

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