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Cleaning/restoring Vintage Synth Panels


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I may have a buyer for my Moog Opus 3. It was stored without a case for a while and the panel and keys got a little dusty. I cleaned them off with a wipe and while they were wet, they looked AWESOME - like brand new, shiny, beautiful. After drying, back to being kind of flat and dingy. Any kind of armor-all-like cleaner/sealer, etc that I could wipe it with that would keep it looking that way without being harmful or leaving some sort of unwanted coating? I was almost thinking Murphys Oil Soap or Pledge or something of that variety.

 

Also a few of the slider pots got enough dust to get a little scratchy. I'm out of any kind of tuner/pot cleaner/lube so I'll need to order some more online. Any recommendations for the best? I think the last stuff I got was just whatever they had at Radio Shack when it was still open. Only one place I can think of in St. Louis that is still open and sells that kind of stuff and they are geographically inconvenient since the relocated a couple years ago.

Dan

 

Acoustic/Electric stringed instruments ranging from 4 to 230 strings, hammered, picked, fingered, slapped, and plucked. Analog and Digital Electronic instruments, reeds, and throat/mouth.

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I use DeoxIT for cleaning electronic contacts. Amazon sells it.

 

I would try a non-abrasive cleaner/degreaser on an inconspicuous spot to see if eliminates the dingy look.

 

Everything you need to clean up the Moog Opus 3 can be found at your big box home improvement store.:cool:

PD

 

"The greatest thing you'll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return."--E. Ahbez "Nature Boy"

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I've been doing a lot of Keyboard cleaning over the last few months. Among those that I recently cleaned are a Jupiter 6, OB8, Matrix 12, S50, DX7, Pro-One, MS20, four Vox Continentals, Gibson G101, Farfisa Compact, Fender Rhodes Piano Bass, RMI Electra-Piano, Hammond Organ plus various guitars, amps and effects pedals. Everything is then photographed in detail in the event it becomes necessary to sell.

 

I first wipe down thoroughly with a soft dry cIoth to get loose dust and dirt.

 

Then I use a clean bicycle chain brush around pots, knobs, jacks and other tight places.

 

Next I go over the panel with a damp cloth with a little dish soap if needed. For any sticky residue that scrubbing doesn't remove I use the smallest possible amount of Goof Off! as a last resort.

 

If the panel is painted and has superficial scratches a light automotive polishing compound may smooth out and brighten it up. Try on an inconspicuous area first. Sometimes toothpaste has enough fine grit to smooth out scratches. Small paint chips can be touched up with a Magic Marker

 

If more shine is desired automotive car wax will coat and shine painted metal. I cleaned a Juno 60 panel that was so heavily plastered with sticky residue that I resorted to using progressive harsher cleaning products and finally got a good shine with car wax. I wasn't able to get every speck of gunk off but none of the paint was damaged and it looks much better than when I got it.

 

On vintage Keyboards that have Tolex, Rexine, or similar covering leather polish or saddle soap works well after initial cleaning with damp cloth or brush. Armor-All looks good at first but will eventually leave a white residue. Saddle soap can be purchased from Chewy in case you do pet food orders with them.

 

Many older vintage Keyboards have chrome parts which sometimes become corroded or pitted if not rusted. A light grade steel wool can remove tarnish and often reduce pitting leaving a nice shine. Fiberglass scratch pens are good for reducing light rusting or pitted areas.

 

Furniture or guitar polish will make wood end panels look their best. Wood color touch up pens will help hide any small scratches or blemishes.

 

For cleaning the actual Keys dishwashing soap works pretty well. Best to take off all the Keys and wash them in the sink if you can put in the time and effort.

I haven't tried it yet but there is Syntaur Key Renew for polishing the Keys.

C3/122, M102A, Vox V301H, Farfisa Compact, Gibson G101, GEM P, RMI 300A, Piano Bass, Pianet , Prophet 5 rev. 2, Pro-One, Matrix 12, OB8, Korg MS20, Jupiter 6, Juno 60, PX-5S, Nord Stage 3 Compact
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For cleaning, warm water and terry cloth. Then your favorite automotive spray wax, applied to a cloth lightly then wipe.

Kawai KG-2C, Nord Stage 3 73, Electro 4D, 5D and Lead 2x, Moog Voyager and Little Phatty Stage II, Slim Phatty, Roland Lucina AX-09, Hohner Piano Melodica, Spacestation V3, pair of QSC 8.2s.

 

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If more shine is desired automotive car wax will coat and shine painted metal. I cleaned a Juno 60 panel that was so heavily plastered with sticky residue that I resorted to using progressive harsher cleaning products and finally got a good shine with car wax. I wasn't able to get every speck of gunk off but none of the paint was damaged and it looks much better than when I got it..

 

 

I think this is where I am, thank you. Also, I knew of Deoxit and my "Go-to" supplier for all things electronic, parts-express, has it so it's probably what I would have bought anyway. Thanks for the confirmation.

Dan

 

Acoustic/Electric stringed instruments ranging from 4 to 230 strings, hammered, picked, fingered, slapped, and plucked. Analog and Digital Electronic instruments, reeds, and throat/mouth.

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I have used RS Components Foam Cleaner to great effect.

You can also try "Back to Black" car trim spray - comes in matt and gloss.

 

R

Alan

Yamaha CP70B;Roland XP30/AXSynth/Fantom/FA76/XR;Hammond XK3C SK2; Korg Kronos 73;ProSoloist Rack+; ARP ProSoloist; Mellotron M4000D; GEM Promega2; Hohner Pianet N, Roland V-Grand,Voyager XL, RMI
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For pots and sliders I use CRC 2-26, it cleans and lubricates. Has worked wonders on many older guitar amps.

 

To remove any sort of sticky gunk, I love Krud Kutter. It is a citrus based engine degreaser, an automotive parts store should have it. It does not have toxic fumes and can be washed off with a mild soap and water solution.

Removes sticker goo like magic, other stuff most of the time.

 

Be careful if working with steel wool, tiny metal bits can get down inside faders and such and conduct electricity. Best to cover everyting except the area you are working on with paper or cloth and leave a magnet close to the work to pick up all the little bits of steel wool as it sheds.

It took a chunk of my life to get here and I am still not sure where "here" is.
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