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SK1 problem, haven't seen anything similar posted


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When playing the G above middle C with an Ex voice, the note sounds at the maximum volume even with a minimal to moderate key strike. I have found that I can work around the problem by setting the velocity sensitivity to "4" for the patch, which equalizes all of the notes to respond to minimal velocity key strikes. This somewhat solves the problem, since I only use the Ex voices during rehearsal. I opened the unit to inspect for any obvious problems such as debris, etc, and gave the insides a good cleaning out. I removed the G key to inspect the velocity sensor, palpated (a medical term) it and found nothing amiss. The next step would be to removed the PCB to visually inspect it from that angle, but that is beyond my pay grade. Reassembled and is working fine. I did a factory reset, but never thought that would help, since it only affects software settings. I then upgraded to the latest OS, thinking that might have a better chance at the hardware level. No luck. But since I had reset the programs to factory default, I revamped my programs and downloaded all of the available patches from the H/S site and am pleased with the array of favorites I now have. Please if you can, shed any light on this or at least let me know I'm not alone. Thanks to all.

Yamaha P-515, Hammond SK1, Casio PX5s, Motif ES rack, Kawai MP5, Kawai ESS110, Yamaha S03, iPad, and a bunch of stuff in the closet.

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Contact Hammond. It's a bad contact in the Fatar keybed; this is common with that keybed, unfortunately and not just limited to the SK series (Nord has the same issue). You may be able to clean it but if you're handy (which is sounds like you are), just replacing the board is probably your best bet.
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Rustar, I had the same problem with an under warranty sk1, which hammond fixed no problems, then just recently my SK2 did something similar (note didn't sound at all which means the same thing, dirty contact, only the other contact in the little rubber bump of two. This wasn't under warranty, so I would have to pay a warranty center to fix it, but after talking to people, it seemed doable. I regularly fix my older actual tonewheel hammonds, so I have some ability in this area, but still, a brand new digital keyboard scared me. I finally got the guts to jump in and do it, I was surprised how easy it was, took maybe an hour, and most of that time was figuring out which screws needed to be pulled. You need a screwdriver, a couple Q tips, and some denatured alchohol and you're set. The SK1 is significantly easier to fix, getting to my bottom manual in the SK was half the battle. The SK1 is quite a bit more accessible. IF you're under warranty let them do it, if not and you're at all handy go for it. And as Jim said, it's not a hammond USA problem, it's a fatar problem. There's a good video on youtube about someone doing a kurtzweil here, getting the keyboard apart is obviously different but contacts are the same.
HammondCV,M3,L101,C6,SK1,xk5,Farfisa Combo Compact,RolandVR09,JX8P,vk09,Sound Canvas,CrumarTraveler1,Rhodes suitcase73,Wurly200,HohnerD6,KorgMS20,CasioCZ-101,Yamaha CP25,TX7,mx61,CasioCZ-101,PX110
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Thanks, DenCV. Time to go buy some q-tips and alcohol. I looked at some other videos, and watched one where a guy replaces a strip of contacts. He described his problem as it applied to his Nord E2, and it was essentially the same as mine. May have to eventually go down that road.

Yamaha P-515, Hammond SK1, Casio PX5s, Motif ES rack, Kawai MP5, Kawai ESS110, Yamaha S03, iPad, and a bunch of stuff in the closet.

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Jim, You say it's a bad contact and a common problem with this Fatar keyboard. so it's more than just a dirty contact? Ive heard of several people with the same problem. Are people with SKs,XK1Cs,Nord organs,and possibly Crumar organs stuck with what will most likely be problematic key contacts due to an iffy design by Fatar? I hope I'm misinterpreting your statement. If not,what the hell can we all do? If it's a design flaw hopefully Fatar will correct it and provide some recourse to those who are having this problem.
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Thanks Moe. I knew that from experience. I guess I mistakenly thought Jim was singling out the Fatar used in the SKs etc. as being especially prone to contamination and faulty contacts. Replacing a keyboard assembly sounds pretty drastic when the problem is caused by a little schmutz.

 

Funny,I have a few twenty plus year old romplers and organs that have been heavily gigged and have never had a key contact problems.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I am pleased and relieved to report that I have successfully repaired this problem, and didn't break anything else in the process. I did it by replacing the pressure sensitive strip on the PCB. I ordered it from the Midi Store in Arizona. DenCV and Greazy Jim Alfredson pointed me in the right direction, and I found this video
on Youtube where the man makes an identical repair on a Nord. I'm now an expert at opening up my SK1 and removing the keyboard, which is actually very simple. Critical to the success of this repair is that you orient the replacement strip correctly. There are two little rubber prongs inside each sensor, which determines the volume of the struck key based on velocity. One is slightly longer than the other, and it should be at the twelve o'clock position when you place the strip into the PCB. Naturally, I got this wrong the first time and found that all of the keys that are contiguous and were using the new strip were equal in volume, but also equally louder than the rest of the keys on the keyboard. I waited till the next day to go at it again, and swiftly removed to keyboard and PCB to find that the strip was indeed opposite of the rest of the strips. I removed it, flipped it around, reassembled enough to test it and voila!, it worked perfectly. The old pressure strip did not look in any way damaged or different than the malfunctioning one, and no debris or soilage was visible. I am beside myself with joy that I did this successfully and saved myself about $200 plus bucks. Thanks for all of your input.

Yamaha P-515, Hammond SK1, Casio PX5s, Motif ES rack, Kawai MP5, Kawai ESS110, Yamaha S03, iPad, and a bunch of stuff in the closet.

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  • 3 years later...

Hello everyone, I'd like to say thank you for the information posted here. Last year I got an SK-1 73, didn't realize that one key was always playing at full velocity, mostly because I've been playing organ patches only. One day I decided to give a try to the electric pianos and some other soft keyboards and was then when I found that something was wrong with the sensitivity on that one key.

 

Looking around the internet I landed on this page and that was how I tried to do the repair on my own. Following Rustar's experience, I also ordered the rubber contact The Midi Store (https://www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Rubber-Contact-for-SL880-990-13-12-p/sku17166.htm), actually, I ordered two, just in case :)

 

After successfully replacing the rubber contacts, the sensitivity on that single key was restored, thus, I thought to share some pictures is the least I could do, so here they are:

The first picture shows the new vs the old rubber contacts, notice that they have some sort of number, not sure if that matters, but in my case they work perfectly fine.

The second picture shows a cleaned up PCB without the rubbers. As sugested Jim Alfredson and DenCV I cleaned up the contacts.

 

As the limitation is just 2 pictures per post (might be because I'm new here, I don't know) I'll post another set of pictures on a separate post.

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As promised, here are some more pictures of the work replacing the rubber contacts.

 

The first picture here shows the new rubber contacts half the way installed, in order to fit the little rubber feet into the PCB holes I used and lost and forgotten unmatched earring (Notice: no harm or threatening was done on the wife in order to get it).

The last picture shows the rubber contacts in place.

 

Once again, thank you all for your contributions to this thread!

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I paid to have all that done to fix my SK1. All new contacts, cleaned, etc... Worked great for around 3 months, and then a totally different key has no velocity.

 

It sucks, but I have to accept that it is basically just an organ at this point. I'm not putting any more money or time into it.

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