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Hammond Rust


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As you may have seen in my other posts, I decided to pull the manuals to remove the foam and give it a 50 year MOT whilst they were out.

 

Foams out ð

 

So I"m now onto replacing the up/down felts. Now at some time liquid has got in. I was wondering if you guys would recommend painting rust converter on?

 

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What a mess! :)

 

The key channels themselves aren't a big deal as long as the rust is on the inside. Outside rust should be removed to prevent key-to-key rubbing. It's not a big deal because better keys are readily available from scrapped M3s.

 

The metal on the manuals themselves is zinc-plated steel. The zinc forms not only a physical barrier between the atmosphere and the rust, but it also acts electrochemically to retard the growth of nearby steel.

 

Using a rust converter will further damage the zinc layer, but at least will turn red iron oxide (cancer) into black iron oxide (stable).

 

My preference is to use mechanical means to the remove as much rust as possible without damaging the zinc layer, then converting what's left by meticulously brushing it on with a paint brush and wiping away as soon as the reaction has slowed. Then I paint with a cold galvanizing paint which is 99% zinc, to restore as much of the factory protection as I can.

 

61OciA.jpg

 

Wes

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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Thanks for the information. I did use a zinc spray on the ends of the manual covers where it had corroded slightly

 

E5-F403-CB-7695-4117-AE82-3-B539-B65-B6-E2.png

 

I just need to decide if I"m going to remove the keys and paint the entire floor of the manual or just along the front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Things may look ok on the outside......

 

Still, despite this it"s never produced any issues. I suspect a pint has gone down there at some point. It looks a mess but it"s superficial, I"ll clean it up with fibreglass pens and paint.

 

BFB542-FF-076-C-4303-B0-D3-026-C774-EC175.jpg

 

You know I had just intended this to be a foam job and spruce up. Ah well!

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That's the thing with Hammonds and to some extent Leslie Speakers ( I know as I have had a few really bad ones in the last year)..they all need tons of maintenance. True they were engineered well but things wear out.

"Danny, ci manchi a tutti. La E-Street Band non e' la stessa senza di te. Riposa in pace, fratello"

 

 

noblevibes.com

 

 

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Jesus. That needs serious attention if that organ's going to last another 20 years.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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Old houses, old tube amps, old cars, old Hammonds.

 

You don't own them.

 

They own you.

 

When you´re done with that old car/ tube amp/ Hammond/... you´re just gonna sit back and enjoy it.....until next object appears!!

"This is my rig, and if you don´t like it....well, I have others!"

 

"Think positive...there's always something to complain about!"

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Dealing with rust on a 90s Ford, I already have a lot in my arsenal to sort it.

 

Ordered some Bilt Hamber Deox Gel. You brush it on, cover the area and it removes the rust in hours. Far quicker than fibreglass pencilling the lot off. I"ll brush zinc paint on after it"s all prepped.

 

I bet theirs an awful lot of organs had a drink spilled down it!

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That rust is way more than a few drinks. I'm thinking leaking ceiling.

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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It had crossed my mind as the top of the organ has a couple of ripples on the wood surface indicating long term dripping.

 

Like I say, it"s never shown as a problem, the preset keys weren"t crusty on pressing, so it just looks like the liquid has lay in the floor of the manual and not affected anything other than the metal.

 

It"ll be as good as new once I"m done.

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Nice! It's good when a rusty one goes a "car guy". That's how I learned to deal with rust, too. :)

Hammond: L111, M100, M3, BC, CV, Franken CV, A100, D152, C3, B3

Leslie: 710, 760, 51C, 147, 145, 122, 22H, 31H

Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85, DX9

Roland: VR-09, RD-800

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks!

 

Right, I"ve taken the contact cover off to do the busbars. I currently have TWG busbar lube and Deoxit D5. I read somewhere that busbar lube can cake up and dry up.

 

What are you guys doing method wise with cleaning? Outkaster, mate-stubb, B3Nut etc

 

I"m still documenting my refurb

 

An hour ago

[video:youtube]

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You don't necessarily need to remove that cover to service the bus bars. On the side of each manual is a little plate that allows you to slide each bar completely out the side (manuals must be out of the organ for this.) Check for breakages in the thin palladium wire on top of the bar. If you have none, lube it and carefully slide back in.

 

If you have breakages in the wire, seek a replacement from a donor organ.

 

When sliding the bars back in, the end can tend to catch every time you slide thru one of the slots. Be patient, but if one just refuses to go, then it is handy to have that top cover off so you can reach in with hemostats or something and encourage things.

Moe

---

 

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I wanted to pre-empt any inserting issue with the bus bars by taking the cover off, and also just to check the underside, especially at the left corner where it was rusted.

 

Indeed, there is mild corrosion o the underside of the cover, so that"s a job tomorrow. I"ve put cling-film over contact box whilst I"m sorting the cover and busbars, just to keep the dust out.

 

Mine is a 1973 organ with the square palladium wire busbar. According to B3Nut from a post a while ago in the Organ forum, he thinks the later busbar types would benefit from a coat of lube.

 

I was just going to isopropyl the busbars then use Deoxit Gold.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Replaced the felt that sits at the back of cover and lubed busbars, however......

 

One of them is broken, possibly by myself either in cleaning or feeding. Disappointing, but I"m not beating myself up too much over it. It"s still come a long way from where I started regardless.

 

Willing to pay good money for a couple of good ones if anyone can help me out at some point, PM me.

 

Other than that, it"s keeping me occupied indoors at the moment.

 

 

AEDFE354-1-B40-4-CFD-8-DD1-C92-D09-C5-EC82.jpg

 

68-B05-BFC-EEEC-4-B61-B5-B6-803392-C930-D9.jpg

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Make sure you are on the Hammond technicians Facebook page. It's kind of not the best forum because you have to drill down into posts but a lot of us are on there and some really good information.

"Danny, ci manchi a tutti. La E-Street Band non e' la stessa senza di te. Riposa in pace, fratello"

 

 

noblevibes.com

 

 

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Make sure you are on the Hammond technicians Facebook page. It's kind of not the best forum because you have to drill down into posts but a lot of us are on there and some really good information.

 

I"m not on Facebook, but there"s lots of info and helpful people outside of it to get the job done. In fact the hard works done in terms of foam/rust removal

 

Placing keys loosely in, I won"t tighten up until fascia is back on with new upfelts in place.

 

A327-BF1-B-0-BF6-4-BD6-85-F8-A0-BEE3-F0-E44-F.jpg

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