RichieP_MechE Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 I've been a proud Nord owner for years but was a little skeptical when they went from metal stem pots to plastic stem starting with the Electro 5 series. My Electro 5D 73 served me well and had no issues. I then upgraded to a Nord Stage 3 Compact and had continued to have good fortune, aside from an encoder knob coming loose and getting lost. Then on Thursday of this week, I open my bag at band practice and find that the program knob is completely busted off. The encoder stem somehow sheared off in transport. I can get by with the page buttons for rehearsal, but the program knob is probably my most-used on the board! http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2001.jpg The busted knob, with half of the encoder stem stuck in the knob. I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to remove the end of the stem I've got access to professional soldering equipment to replace the encoder, but I've also got a gig on Monday, and probably wouldn't be able to get a replacement in time. Even if I could, I really don't want to be soldering on an important component the day of an important gig (Though I'm sure some of the EEs here have done this!) I noticed that the busted stem had in internal D-shaped profile on both sides. A simple mechanical solution could repair this adequately: I just needed to make a small D-shaped shaft to insert into the two halves to join them together. I went down into the basement and found a coil of 9 gauge galvanized steel wire that I had leftover from another project. It just happened to be the perfect size (3.6 mm (9/64")) diameter, which is the same as the diameter of the inter D on the encoder stem. A few minutes with a file and a hacksaw and I had a 12 mm (1/2") D-profile shaft. I filed it until I had a tight transition fit. I applied a little bit of superglue to one half of the shaft, then inserted it into the broken stem tip. After that, I applied a bit more superglue to the other end of the steel shaft, then inserted it into the encoder on the front panel. I made sure to keep spinning it occasionally so that if any glue leaked out of the joint, it wouldn't bond the encoder in place and prevent it from rotating. The repair worked great! I've now got a steel reinforced encoder stem. I suspect you could also do this repair with the potentiometers on the board as well, though I don't know for sure what the insides of the stem look like. I would also suspect that this repair could be done on any Nord boards from the Electro 5 onwards that are using plastic stem encoders/pots. Here's some pictures with captions detailing the process. You don't even have to take the board apart to make this repair (I took off the front panel to more easily handle on my workbench but this is not actually necessary) Sorry for the low-quality cell phone pics (though I think they get the point across) Happy fixing! http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2002.jpg Wire that will serve as the shaft. You can find this stuff at your local big box home improvement store. http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2003.jpg Diameter measurement http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2004.jpg Cut a 25mm (1") section, clamp in vise, then start working with a mill file. http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2005.jpg Before/after. Finished shaft is about 12 mm (1/2") long. http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2006.jpg Starting reassembly. I applied a little bit of superglue to the shaft before inserting into the stem. http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2007.jpg The stem reassembled. I again applied some superglue before inserting into the encoder. Pressed on it to start the bond, then turned every few seconds to keep any glue that might of leaked out from sticking. http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/rpantale/pics/nord%20encoder%20repair/nord%20enc%2008.jpg After about 15 minutes (glue should be dry by then) the knob was reattached. You could glue the knob in place if you want, but that would make future circuit repair difficult. All of the knobs have to be removed to separate the circuit board from the front panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mate stubb Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Quote Moe --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightbg Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Bet you would've had a tougher time if it wasn't for the Harbor Freight digital calipers....... Good Job! Jake Quote 1967 B-3 w/(2) 122's, Nord C1w/Leslie 2101 top, Nord PedalKeys 27, Nord Electro 4D, IK B3X, QSC K12.2, Yamaha reface YC+CS+CP "It needs a Hammond" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markyboard Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Love it - awesome job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfD Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Bet you would've had a tougher time if it wasn't for the Harbor Freight... As I do all types of repair jobs, that is one of my favorite non-music stores. Brotha Richie, great job on the stem repair. Quote PD "The greatest thing you'll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return."--E. Ahbez "Nature Boy" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoken6 Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Nice job. I love these "how I did it" threads. Cheers, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reezekeys Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Harbor Freight is the one and only piece of junk email I don't mind getting! I'm a also a proud owner of the digital calipers, as well as a few other items. There's a store less than 15 minutes drive from me. Their aluminum case is what I transport my pedals, cables & "emergency" JV1010 in! This post definitely brought a smile to my face. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b3plyr Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Brilliant! In a pinch you could use a two part plastic specific epoxy. But your solution is much better. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzmammal Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Awesome! And I am going to pick up those calipers the next time I'm in that store. This is a similar repair that forum member Brad Kaenel (?) did on my SK1 before I bought it from him. It's been several years and it's still good. Bob Quote Hammond SK1, Mojo 61, Kurzweil PC3, Korg Pa3x, Roland FA06, Band in a Box, Real Band, Studio One, too much stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markyboard Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Deleted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichieP_MechE Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks all. I like making these little how-to posts, so hopefully someone will get some use out of it in the future. I actually got my discount calipers from Amazon Most of these cheap Chinese calipers are more or less the same - as long as you get a decent pair with unbent tips and gapless jaws you've got enough precision for 95% of measuring tasks. Once you have a pair you'll find that they are indispensable, I use mine all the time. One tip is to store them with the battery removed, otherwise you'll go back to use them after a few months and find that battery is dead. I've been on the same battery for more than 2 years using this battery removal tip. I am also a tool nerd and can talk about them for hours. I've got drawers full of expensive German pliers and screwdrivers, but still have plenty of generic stuff from Harbor Freight as well. HFT has actually been making strides in introducing higher quality tools into their lineup over the years and are starting to shed their cheap crappy tool reputation. Their new line of Icon hand tools are really nice - I recently picked up a stubby 3/8" ratchet to try out and it's almost as nice as my Snap-On ratchet. I also bought one of their US General brand 26" toolboxes and it's well constructed and higher quality than any US-made Craftsman toolbox that I've owned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfD Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 HFT has actually been making strides in introducing higher quality tools into their lineup over the years and are starting to shed their cheap crappy tool reputation. Their new line of Icon hand tools are really nice - I recently picked up a stubby 3/8" ratchet My toolbox is already filled with anything I need but it's great to know HFT has quality pieces as well. A couple years ago, I needed a hammer drill. Started to buy one from HFT but decided to get the Bosch Bulldog Rotary Hammer. i usually buy miscellaneous stuff from HFT i.e. cable ties, ratchet tie-downs, tape, glue, screws, etc. Quote PD "The greatest thing you'll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return."--E. Ahbez "Nature Boy" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichieP_MechE Posted January 29, 2020 Author Share Posted January 29, 2020 but decided to get the Bosch Bulldog Rotary Hammer. Bosch makes great stuff. I've got some of their 12V tools and they're a pleasure to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichieP_MechE Posted January 29, 2020 Author Share Posted January 29, 2020 Also, last night's gig went off without a hitch - no knobs came flying off at least I'd chalk this repair up as a success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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