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Crumar Mojo 61 Review - (LONG)


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I sent my Mojo back due to Wifi problem and received my new one this afternoon and the Mojo hooked with the Editor on first try no problem. For the some reason the first Mojo wouldn't connect all the time and eventually wouldn't connect at all.?

 

I have to give a shout at Chris at Alto Music as he sent me another Mojo right after UPS picked up the first one.

 

I like the 1958 MT B-3 ant the 1962 A102 the best. Really satisfied with the keybed and the sounds are first class.

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  • 2 weeks later...


Hi, I just bought an open box Mojo 61. Given the discount, I assumed there might be one or two things wrong with it. So far it looks and sounds great, and everything appears to be working as documented with ONE exception, and I want to get some opinions:

 

The lowest E key does not sound for either the Pipe Organ or any of the four EPs (Tine, Reed, Clav, and Grand). It DOES sound for the B3 and the two Combo organs. All other keys work for every instrument, except for the first five for the Clav as expected.

 

This is not a deal breaker since I principally bought this for the B3. It's just odd. Does this sound like something I could check in the online config? Also - is there a factory reset for the 61? I know there is for the dual model.

 

Thanks, Eric Martin

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Could have been the Mojo I sent back with the wifi problem. It was fine except the wifi connecting with me.

 

The Clav works like a real Clav with the I think the low note is F and the rest are silent. Check the octave button and make sure it is not on.

 

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Since you are aware that the clav doesn't sound the full range, and this is only the low E for the non-B3, I'd suspect it is the velocity sensing contact for that low E key.

 

AFAIK, the B3 uses only the upper contact on the key. The velocity sensing voices don't sound until the lower contact is closed (or opened? N/C or N/O?), and the time between upper contact and lower contact determines the velocity. So if that Low E lower contact isn't functional, you won't ever get a "NOTE ON" event for it.

 

I'm not sure about the Pipe Organ - do they use velocity to modify the modeling of the opening of the valve, as in a tracker organ? Or maybe they just use the lower contact to better represent the 'feel' of a pipe organ?

 

I've never opened up a velocity sensing keyboard, and haven't opened my Mojo61 either - I'm not sure how easy it would be to inspect that switch - maybe a little pushing and prodding would get it to make/break contact? And maybe not worth the effort to you, if B3 is the prime use, and it's only one note on the others. Just an option to consider.

 

A bit off topic, but what do others think of the Pipe Organ sounds? I like the mellow ones a bit (the Principal and Flutes), but everything else seems too brash and bold, I really can't use it for much of anything. It's OK, I bought it for the B3, but it just seems odd voicing to me.

 

 

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Thanks for the theory - yes that sounds correct to me. I'm not going to crack the case, I wouldn't have the slightest idea what I'm doing, and since this the first E on the keyboard, it's not total nuisance. I am using this for B3 and maybe some Rhodes - like the original poster I won't be playing the pipe or combo organs much, if at all.

 

I did strike the key hard to see if I'd get anything - total silence.

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Why is this in the review thread?

 Find 660 of my jazz piano arrangements of standards for educational purposes and tutorials at www.Patreon.com/HarryLikas Harry was the Technical Editor of Mark Levine's "The Jazz Theory Book" and helped develop "The Jazz Piano Book."

 

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Was there no guarantee on the open box unit? You should return it for a working one or at least see if the dealer will refund some money.

Endorsing Artist/Ambassador for MAG Organs and Motion Sound Amplifiers, Organ player for SRT - www.srtgroove.com

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Why is this in the review thread?

 

It seems like this has just become the 'go to' thread for all things Mojo61.

 

I guess there are pros/cons to that (gets long, disjointed - but it's also all in one place).

 

As long as the OP (Mitch Towne) is OK with it (appears to be, he just posted w/o any comments regarding the thread creep), I think we should be OK with it.

 

If you want to break out a particular topic that you feel should be in its own thread, you can start one.

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Most likely a contact. I've also faced the same issue not long ago.

 

In that case, it can be serviced by anyone who has:

a) a bit of patience

and

b) a screwdriver or two.

 

Note that despite the first picture below, you don't need to detach the key itself.

 

Also, if someone's Mojo61 is booting but not responding neither to the controls nor to the keyboard, you might re-plug the ribbon cable that goes to the mainboard (third picture).

 

6nnI3nC-KEo.jpg

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Thanks - someday I might crack it open and see if I can fix it. But right now I'm grooving on the board too much :)

 

I would send it back I didn't wanna send mine back either but it only took 3 days to get the new one.

 

UPS picked mine on Monday and Thursday at lunch I had the new one. As soon as UPS picks it up and they get the tracking number they Chris at Alto sent me another one at no cost great people doing business with.

 

Mine was an open box with same warranty as new one but when they sent me a new one there was no charge for the new one period.

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Hmmm, this type of scenario perhaps ties in with the Guitar Center Rental scam. Order an open box, B stock, etc. to get a deeper discount; when you receive it contact the seller and complain about the keyboard not functioning correctly, and send it back; the seller then sends you a new keyboard but the price paid was the open box price.....

57 Hammond B3; 69 Hammond L100P; 68 Leslie 122; Kurzweil Forte7 & PC3; M-Audio Code 61; Voce V5+; Neo Vent; EV ELX112P; GSI Gemini & Burn

Delaware Dave

Exit93band

 

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> this type of scenario perhaps ties in with the Guitar Center Rental scam<

 

Well, that's not my approach. I'm perfectly willing to have the unit diagnosed and serviced locally. I've emailed Alto and am waiting for their thoughts.

 

Plus I'm not sure your "scam" holds water. I've returned open box stuff before for a refund or store credit - getting a "brand new" instrument instead was never offered by the vendor or expected by me.

 

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Hmmm, this type of scenario perhaps ties in with the Guitar Center Rental scam. Order an open box, B stock, etc. to get a deeper discount; when you receive it contact the seller and complain about the keyboard not functioning correctly, and send it back; the seller then sends you a new keyboard but the price paid was the open box price.....

 

No scam here my friend not my style and don't appreciate the accusations I suggest you need to be more familiar with my situation before you assume something and we know what assume stands for.

 

Dave Bryce knew about the wifi problem as well as Mitch and Chris at the music store.

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Geez, I wasn't trying to suggest the people who mentioned these scenarios are scammers. As we were talking about the Guitar Center rental scam, I was merely suggested that this type of scenario is also one that could be added to the list. Please turn down your personal sensitivity dials.

57 Hammond B3; 69 Hammond L100P; 68 Leslie 122; Kurzweil Forte7 & PC3; M-Audio Code 61; Voce V5+; Neo Vent; EV ELX112P; GSI Gemini & Burn

Delaware Dave

Exit93band

 

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Geez, I wasn't trying to suggest the people who mentioned these scenarios are scammers. As we were talking about the Guitar Center rental scam, I was merely suggested that this type of scenario is also one that could be added to the list. Please turn down your personal sensitivity dials.

 

I am good this is a Mojo thread and we should keep it that. Not interested in a bunch of your nonsense.

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I talked to Alto and they've been very good about it all - they said I can swap it for another once they get one in, and the meantime keep the current unit. They are also talking to Crumar about a possible fix. I sent them this video to show the issue:

 

https://youtu.be/1w6FeJlYlhI

 

Great news exactly what told me I kept mine about 2 weeks hoping the wifi problem could be resolved but no luck. So they sent me another one.

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I talked to Alto and they've been very good about it all - they said I can swap it for another once they get one in, and the meantime keep the current unit. They are also talking to Crumar about a possible fix. I sent them this video to show the issue:

 

https://youtu.be/1w6FeJlYlhI

 

The second "issue" of the high drawbar dropping off at the G - it is supposed to do that, it's called "foldback" - and that is how a Hammond is wired, so this just emulated the B3, as it should. It actually becomes a part of the 'magic', not every note sounds the same. Hammond did it to avoid needing another 12-24 tonewheels, and the pitch gets really high anyhow.

 

It doesn't go away, it repeats from an octave lower, and you'll see it a bit higher up on the next 2 drawbars down. Try listening with just 1' pulled out, it'll be obvious. Embrace it! If it didn't do it, the Hammond fans would be complaining.

 

 

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I talked to Alto and they've been very good about it all - they said I can swap it for another once they get one in, and the meantime keep the current unit. They are also talking to Crumar about a possible fix. I sent them this video to show the issue:

 

https://youtu.be/1w6FeJlYlhI

 

First problem: bubble of second contact is dirty, unfortunately it's a known issue with this kind of technology, need to clean that bubble. Sometimes is only "lazy": try to tap that key with some kind of force, sometimes this will solve :-)

Second problem: not a problem but a feature ;-)

www.crumar.it

info@crumar.it

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Its endemic to these FATAR Keybeds. Happens to my Nords every few years. I wouldnt recommend too much force. But sometimes playing rapid staccato 16th notes for a minute or two on the bad key will knock the debris loose and resolve the issue. Have the keyboard tilted at an angle so youve got gravity in your favor.

 

But most of the time I end up having to open the keyboard, remove the keybed, remove the circuit card from the bottom of the keybed, remove the grey rubber nipple switches, and go in there with a swab.

 

This will give you an idea, although Im way more gentle with the rubber strip than this guy is.

 

[video:youtube]

 

All that said, I think youre taking the wiser approach since the instrument is still brand new and under warranty.

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>The second "issue" of the high drawbar dropping off at the G - it is supposed to do that, it's called "foldback" <

 

Thanks! You know I thought that might have been the case so I googled around but didn't find anything...likely my search terms weren't enough on the mark.

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Yeah, I'll do what I can about the "bad bubble." I would rather NOT have to pack up the instrument and go through the shipping hassle because of one bad contact...esp one so low on the keybed. At this point I have a new one "on order" with Alto but if I'm able to resolve this without having to perform surgery I will.
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Has there been any change in the Mojo 61 keyboard action since they were first made? I read in some thread somewhere that someone felt a difference between two different 61's. I am wondering as I am trying to decide between a used or new one (and also if having a warranty is worth many hundreds $$ more) Thanks for any insights... MH
MH
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I got a Mojo61. Took one home from GearFest (thanks dB!). I've only used it once in a live setting, and it was a lot of fun.

 

I've been doing all gigs with just my NS2 73 for about 5 years now. I want to use both boards on some gigs -- how are people doing this? I hate the standard 2-tier configuration, or at least I haven't found a good stand for that purpose. I wonder if it makes sense to put the NS2 on top of the Mojo... sort of like a Nord sitting on top of a real console organ. I'd have to make some kind of brace to hold up the Nord. Thoughts on any of this?

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