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#2898755 - 12/31/17 02:53 AM Bridge Repair
splitting hare Offline
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A family member has asked me to see if I can repair the bridge on her old Gibson C1 nylon string. It really just looks like I need to clean the guitar and bridge surfaces and reglue. Any advice as to a good glue to use in this situation? Other ideas or repair procedures? Thanks in advance for any advice! thu

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#2898758 - 12/31/17 04:23 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: splitting hare]
whitefang Offline
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Not being a luthier, I'd offhand say Gorilla glue. wink
But I'd be interested in knowing what type of adhesive is actually recommended. I've never seen that type of problem before, nor heard of anyone having that sort of thing happen to them. And I'd have thought it more likely to happen with a steel stringed instrument. Let us know how it gets resolved.
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#2898776 - 12/31/17 08:08 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: whitefang]
DocPate Offline
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#2898791 - 12/31/17 09:05 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: DocPate]
Larryz Offline
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The problem is more than likely someone trying to use steel strings on a nylon string guitar. Too much tension caused the bridge to pop off. There are some good videos on YouTube to review before you start. I would just take it to my guy and have it done right for about $20 bucks as he has the knowledge and the tools. +1 on Doc's Hide glue. Then put on a nice set of nylon strings and you're good to go. If the family member doesn't like nylon stringed guitars, perhaps a trade is in order...good luck and have fun with it... cool
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#2898793 - 12/31/17 09:20 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: Larryz]
Winston Psmith Offline
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Another vote for hide glue, if you don't want to take it to a repair shop. As Larryz points out, it's probably not an expensive repair, but mixing hide glue is not a fun home project. Yes, you can get a bottle of Titebond Hide Glue, ready-mixed, but I don't know that product well enough to give a thumbs-up or down.

Think in terms of possible future repairs, which means using a glue that can be removed without damaging the wood, so no epoxy, no Super Glue; I would even avoid Elmer's Wood Glue.
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#2898812 - 12/31/17 10:29 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: Winston Psmith]
splitting hare Offline
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Registered: 05/29/07
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Thanks for the info! thu

Found a site with very detailed information regarding hide glue -

HideGlueInfo

Wow, never would have thought it would be that involved! lol I have mixed all kinds of epoxy resins, polyester resins, gelcoats, etc. over the years since I work on boats for a living. None of that stuff is as involved as hide glue! Actually it doesn't look too bad but it might be wise to practice on a couple things before tackling the bridge.

Originally Posted By: Winston Psmith
using a glue that can be removed without damaging the wood, so no epoxy, no Super Glue; I would even avoid Elmer's Wood Glue.
This seems to be the consensus of everyone who has offered advice. If any of these types adhesive are used, if the bridge comes off for repairs again, or if there is another type problem where the bridge pulls off, it might likely take part of the top off with it! eek

To the best of my knowledge, the owner of this guitar has always used nylon strings on it since she does have another guitar with steel strings and there are nylon strings with ball ends on it now. But I don't know for certain if the bridge had been compromised by use of steel strings before. I have also heard that some Gibson acoustic bridges were not adequately glued in the manufacturing process.

Anyway, it would seem that hide glue is the best route to take here... that or take it to a reputable luthier!

Thanks, all! thu
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#2898867 - 12/31/17 06:39 PM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: splitting hare]
Larryz Offline
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I was watching a repair on YouTube where the bridge came off due to using steel strings on a nylon acoustic. If the strings in your picture are ball end nylon strings, then the saddle should be fine and nylon strings wouldn't have caused the pulling away problem. It's true that some of the Gibson glue jobs may have missed a spot or two for awhile causing the failure or pull away...my daughter's steel string Ovation bridge popped off and had to be re-glued. The tech I take my guitars to fixed it for $20bucks...

+1 on The Tightbond Hide Glue Winston mentioned is pre-mixed and saves you the trouble of being a mad scientist with a the glue pot. It has a shelf life of about a year so it's cheap enough to use once and toss it after a few months. The comments in Doc's article link were very helpful in checking out the product...I wouldn't even have the right C clamps LOL! But I have faith in your ability to pull it off Splitting Hare! thu
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#2898887 - 01/01/18 05:51 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: Larryz]
splitting hare Offline
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Originally Posted By: Larryz
I was watching a repair on YouTube where the bridge came off due to using steel strings on a nylon acoustic. If the strings in your picture are ball end nylon strings, then the saddle should be fine and nylon strings wouldn't have caused the pulling away problem. It's true that some of the Gibson glue jobs may have missed a spot or two for awhile causing the failure or pull away...my daughter's steel string Ovation bridge popped off and had to be re-glued. The tech I take my guitars to fixed it for $20bucks...

+1 on The Tightbond Hide Glue Winston mentioned is pre-mixed and saves you the trouble of being a mad scientist with a the glue pot. It has a shelf life of about a year so it's cheap enough to use once and toss it after a few months. The comments in Doc's article link were very helpful in checking out the product...I wouldn't even have the right C clamps LOL! But I have faith in your ability to pull it off Splitting Hare! thu


Thanks, Larryz! With everything on my schedule right now, it will probably be a week or two before I can take care of this project, plus I am going to restring it for her. I'll report back when it is mission accomplished!
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#2898904 - 01/01/18 08:06 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: splitting hare]
Larryz Offline
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thu
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#2898923 - 01/01/18 10:15 AM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: Larryz]
Scott Fraser Offline
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Same thing happened on the early 20th century Washburn I inherited from my grandfather. My luthier did a quick inexpensive re-gluing & it's good as new.
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#2898968 - 01/01/18 03:29 PM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: Scott Fraser]
whitefang Offline
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So, what'd he use?
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#2901235 - 01/10/18 04:38 PM Re: Bridge Repair [Re: splitting hare]
d Offline
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Originally Posted By: splitting hare
Thanks, Larryz! With everything on my schedule right now, it will probably be a week or two before I can take care of this project, plus I am going to restring it for her. I'll report back when it is mission accomplished!

Then you might have time to review some of these (just to scope options):

Master list of YT repair vids
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=regluing+guitar+brodge

ALSO
https://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?190736-Glue-for-an-Acoustic-Bridge
...where, with other suggestions, we find these comments:
[1]"Either epoxy or superglue would be appropriate for this, epoxy being my first choice. System 3 epoxies cure perfectly fine in high humidity, as do West System epoxies in my experience. General hardware store epoxies may be more prone to curing problems in high humidity, though I don't really have much experience with those. Epoxies like System 3 or West System are not cheap of course, but still can end up cheaper ounce for ounce if you compare to using superglues.
Other moisture resistant glues such as modified PVA's (Titebond II or III) or Polyurethane adhesives (Gorilla Glue) may be moisture resistant, but they have no gap filling strength at all. If the joint is not perfectly mated wood to wood, or if the surfaces are still at all contaminated with remnants of previous glues, I would not choose any of these.
A good epoxy would probably be the most suitable for this application. Cyanoactylates would work okay as well, but be a whole lot messier, and probably end up costing you about as much or more if you're doing more than a just a few bridges."

[2]"Titebond would be the way to go. But its a catch 22. The reason hide glue was used back in the day is it was cooked and the adhesive would actually bond with the fibers of the wood. The advantage to using hide glue is if the instrument dries out(very typical in Winter) the top sinks into the body & the bridge either cracks at the pins or pops of. Using better glue will stop the bridge from coming off, but if the bridge doesn't come loose, it may cause the top to crack. Consider keeping some moisture available to these in the winter months."

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?126692-Re-gluing-guitar-bridge
"It is pretty much straightforward -- remove bridge, clean off the old glue, put down new glue and clamp. Wipe off the glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth, let set 24 hours. The glue is cheap, the clamps need to be a deep 5.5-6 inch throat, which you may or may not have on hand. Usually you need at least 3 clamps. Four is probably better. There is a better clamping system that uses a plate that you screw through the bridge pin holes and it is a single machined unit that puts pressure evenly, especially on the ends, that I like to use for guitar bridges. The main advantage to it is that when you are wiping your glue squeeze, you don't have the C clamps in the way. So, your repair might require buying some tools. Cheap versions of the C clamps are available at Harbor Freight, if you don't want to pay the StewMac price, but the clamping unit I mentioned is great if you are doing a lot of bridge regluing.

I should add, not sure on your particular guitar, but some guitars have two "safety" screws hidden under pearl dots, that need to be removed first. Dig out the pearl dot, being careful not to destroy it for reuse, remove screw and nut."

http://www.guitarrepairbench.com/acoustic-guitar-repairs/bridge-repair.html
"Improper Gluing
In order for any glue joint to hold up under extreme pressure, it has to be prepped and cleaned properly. The same is true about guitar bridges. If the top of the guitar wasn't cleaned and sanded properly before the bridge was glued on, you might have a problem with this later. This can happen when someone wants to replace his or her bridge with another one. Instead of properly cleaning the top of the guitar they just rip off the old one and glue on a new one. Most likely there is still finish on the guitar top and the new bridge won't properly adhere to the guitar body."

http://www.classicalguitardelcamp.com/viewtopic.php?t=77693

http://www.accu-techguitarrepair.com/bridgeregluing.html

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