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#2867419 - 07/17/17 09:48 AM Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ?
LX88 Offline
Platinum Member

Registered: 10/16/10
Posts: 1747
So... just when I was REALLY digging the combination of the HX3 module with a Hammond XK-2 as its controller.

THE FRICKIN BATTERY ON THE XK-2 DIES!!!

Has anyone else replaced this? I am a little bit wary of taking the XK-2 apart just to change a battery. So some experience would be appreciated.

The XK-2 and HX-3 are a killer combination. The XK-2 keybed feels wonderful, and there are a lot of HX3 parameters that can be controlled with the XK-2. The drawbars all work, and many other functions can be accessed with presets, which the XK-2 can change.

I have a bit of an issue with the XK-2 weight, but it's worth it because the keybed feels so friendly.

And info about that battery change appreciated.

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KC Island
#2867431 - 07/17/17 10:52 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: LX88]
The Real MC Offline
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Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 4573
Loc: Secluded Tranquil NY Wine Coun...
I've replaced the battery in both my XK3 and XK3c, and I can say from experience that this is not a job for the novice.

I frigging HATE those soldered in batteries. Whenever I replace one, I install a socket so that a standard coin battery - the ones you can buy in stores - can be used.

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#2867442 - 07/17/17 11:13 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: The Real MC]
Markyboard Offline
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Registered: 02/10/01
Posts: 4932
Loc: Springfield, Virginia
Are you sure about the XK-3C? This video shows the battery socketed. Maybe they changed it in later versions?

[/video]

Agreed if it is soldered in on the XK-2 then best left to an experienced tech.


Edited by Markyboard (07/17/17 11:16 AM)

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#2867468 - 07/17/17 12:18 PM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: Markyboard]
JMcS Offline
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Registered: 12/11/03
Posts: 2724
The battery is easily replaced in both the XK-3 & 3c. There is a little less to move in the 3c but it probably won't take more than 10 minutes in either.

Take the 4 screws across the back and the 2 smaller headed screws on each side of the drawbars out and lift the lid off. On the 3c you should be able to see the battery. On the 3 you will need to move the drawbars (IIRC) and a cover over the main board. The battery is a CR2032.

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#2867506 - 07/17/17 03:21 PM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: JMcS]
Reezekeys Offline
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Registered: 02/07/11
Posts: 2071
Loc: NYC area
OK not to start a whole new deal but does anyone here know what the justification is from the manufacturer's perspective to go with a soldered-in battery? I can only think of one reason: to guarantee that a service center will make a few bucks at some point. Does a CR2032 holder take up that much more room on a circuit board? Does the battery holder's extra cost cut that much into the profit? On some units (I'm thinking the original DX7) you have to take the motherboard completely out to replace the battery. There must be something I'm missing. What is it?

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#2867507 - 07/17/17 03:36 PM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: Reezekeys]
WesG Offline
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Registered: 02/16/13
Posts: 2957
Loc: Inverary, ON, Canada
I don't recall the DX7 being particularly difficult, aside from sourcing a battery with the correct tab spacing.

Cost could be one reason. I suspect a battery holder winds up adding $2 to the finished product, most of that being being manual labour. Somebody has to put the batteries in there. That translates to about $6-$10 at retail.

Increasing profit for the service center is not a consideration. No major manufacturer thinks this way, it is simply not cost effective.

Another consideration might be the reduction in warranty claims. There is no way a soldered in battery will be knocked loose, accidentally or otherwise. We all know a battery will outlast the warranty by a signficant margin.

Wes
_________________________
Hammond: Split L111, '58 M3, '59 B3, Northern DV
Leslie: 760, 51C, 147, 145
Yamaha: CP4, DGX-620, DX7II-FD-E!, PF85
Roland: VR-09
Band Site: http://DrBombay.ca/

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#2867580 - 07/18/17 05:59 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: WesG]
Joe Muscara Offline
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10k Club

Registered: 02/21/05
Posts: 18993
Loc: Heaven, Hell, or Houston
How about ease of manufacturing? The process might be easier with soldering in the battery instead of a holder and then manually inserting the battery. idk

They also might have unrealistic expectations of the life of the battery...

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#2867594 - 07/18/17 06:39 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: WesG]
Reezekeys Offline
MP Hall of Fame Member

Registered: 02/07/11
Posts: 2071
Loc: NYC area
Just playing a bit of devil's advocate here. I don't build keyboards, I play them!

Originally Posted By: WesG
I don't recall the DX7 being particularly difficult, aside from sourcing a battery with the correct tab spacing.

I agree, not difficult - just time consuming. Can we agree that removing a mb, desoldering the old, then soldering a new battery is probably beyond the pay grade of a lot of if not most owners?

Originally Posted By: WesG
Cost could be one reason. I suspect a battery holder winds up adding $2 to the finished product, most of that being being manual labour. Somebody has to put the batteries in there. That translates to about $6-$10 at retail.

The holders are .70 - .90 from a quick look at Digi-Key's offering. What's more interesting is that the unit cost of regular CR2032s are around .40 while the ones with solder tabs are $1.14! So for parts alone, cost-wise it appears there's not much difference. And wouldn't there be some kind of human activity in the final inspection & assembly? Seems to me that slipping a battery into a holder wouldn't be a major addition to the checklist, but again I play 'em, not build 'em.

Originally Posted By: WesG
Another consideration might be the reduction in warranty claims. There is no way a soldered in battery will be knocked loose, accidentally or otherwise. We all know a battery will outlast the warranty by a signficant margin.

Looking at how these batteries are held, I think that any force capable of knocking one loose would be enough to do more serious damage to the keyboard. But maybe you're right. And you're definitely right about your second point, based on my recent work rehabbing my OBXa. I pulled the 36-year old 3V soldered-in battery and measured its voltage at 2.99 volts!

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#2867605 - 07/18/17 07:33 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: Reezekeys]
dbran Offline
Member

Registered: 02/27/17
Posts: 27
Loc: CT
Hi LX88,

The XK-2 battery is not soldered, it's housed in a compartment and is easy to replace (once you open up the XK-2). I did it a couple of years ago on mine. All you need is a phillips screwdriver. The battery is a 2032, a small quarter-sized 3V battery that you can find in drugstores. The following instructions may look long, but it's actually a pretty simple job that I'm trying to describe in detail.


Here's what you need to do to get the XK-2 open. You might want to mark all of the positions of these screws with tape as you remove them, just to remember where the holes are.


Lay the keyboard upside down (maybe on a soft towel), so you're looking at the large underside panel, the "bottom" of the keyboard. From this panel, you're going to remove two screws from the left side edge, and two screws from the right side edge. Each pair of screws are the ones nearest to the edge and also nearest to the "front" or the key bed side, i.e. closest to where you sit to play.

Also remove five more screws in a straight line across the middle. All of these on the bottom are all the same type of screw.

Now carefully turn the keyboard back over so it's right-side up. It's not ready to come apart quite yet, but it's not held together as strongly without those screws, so you want to give it as much support as you can and keep it together while turning it over.

After it's right-side up, remove four screws from the front panel (where audio jacks, midi jacks, etc. are). They're just under the overhang of the top wood panel. These are the last screws that are holding the lid to the rest of the keyboard. One of them may be longer than the others, so be sure to note where that one goes back in (or mark it with tape) and set it aside.

(NOTE -- the order of when you remove all these screws does not matter, so you can also do the front-panel ones before you turn it over to get the ones on the bottom. But if you do this, there will be nothing at all holding it together as you flip it back over, so you would need to be extra careful while doing that. Yes, I learned this the hard way!)

When last screw is removed, the lid (which includes the entire top part of the keyboard, both wood and metal, lcd screen, drawbars, etc -- everything but the key bed itself) will be free to rotate. It swivels on "hinges" (really tabs in slots) across the top front (away from key bed). Easy to lift up, look inside, and put back down, but it could fall off if you have the keyboard propped up vertically for some reason, so be careful here. First time it fell open it was a surprise to me (hence the need to "keep it all together" as you flip it). You should be able to swivel the lid open about halfway, i.e, so that it is standing straight up vertically. You can't go farther than this due to ribbon connectors that can only stretch so far. But with the lid vertical (maybe have someone hold it there), you can now look at the main circuit board on the bottom. This is where you'll find the battery compartment. It's easy to spot, on the left and near the back.

The battery easy to replace. The old one pops out by hand, new one is easy to insert in the holder. The flat part of the battery is to the LEFT as you look down from the normal playing position.

While you're in there, it's worth taking a dust-buster and gently removing as much lint as you can find (keeping the dust-buster at a slight distance from any of the components, so that it never actually touches them). You can also take lint out gently by hand in those tough little corners.

Then just reverse everything -- gently put the lid back down, replace the four front panel screws, turn it over (gently, holding it all together), and put back all the screws on the bottom.

That's it! I encourage you to give it a try -- I'm not an especially "handy" guy, but this is an easy job that just requires a little care and patience. The whole thing takes less than an hour, even if you've never done it before.

I have pictures, not sure how to get them to you, but if you want to see them, PM me and maybe we can figure it out.

Good luck and best wishes!
_________________________
Alesis QS8, Hammond XK-2, DSI Tetra
Motion Sound KBR-3D, CPS Spacestation v.3

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#2867616 - 07/18/17 08:40 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: dbran]
The Real MC Offline
MP Hall of Fame Member

Registered: 05/17/05
Posts: 4573
Loc: Secluded Tranquil NY Wine Coun...
Why do my units have to be the ones with soldered batteries?

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#2867625 - 07/18/17 09:21 AM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: The Real MC]
Markyboard Offline
MP Hall of Fame Member

Registered: 02/10/01
Posts: 4932
Loc: Springfield, Virginia
Originally Posted By: The Real MC
Why do my units have to be the ones with soldered batteries?


Maybe you got confused and removed the socket- it happens. Look on the bright side - at least the battery wont fall out now.

poke roll

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#2867715 - 07/18/17 05:25 PM Re: Battery replacement on Hammond XK-2 ? [Re: Markyboard]
LX88 Offline
Platinum Member

Registered: 10/16/10
Posts: 1747
Much thanks to DBran for the detailed instructions!

I am looking forward to getting the XK2/ HX3 combination up and running again....

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