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Thanks Myles for all your good Karma and always "paying it forward" to assist others.

When it comes to my interests and hobbies, I can get into it and go on and on! I am fascinated with the subjectivity of tone and the expression of tone through the use of valve amplification technologies. With your knowledge, experiences and contributions that you have made in the quest for tone,,,,, Just saying, that I am sure that I have enough questions and interest in your opinions that you could probably write a book. So if I start getting carried away or what not,,,, I hope someone will let me know "hey dude your hogging the forum" or "just quit now, with bothering the man!"

Ok with that above disclaimer above said and without having reached my limit on Questions for Myles, Here's more general material for Myles to ponder and maybe could be helpful for others beside myself.....

VINTAGE TUBES? USED TUBES? OLD TUBES? BACKUP TUBES? ECT.......

What ways can a person judge and decide if an older tube is still serviceable or worthy? I have been more and more often coming up on old classic used tubes and such. Some old tube brands are in such high demand that prices for even used tubes have become ridiculous! As an amatuer enthusiast and not fully professional service man (person) .... I have fairly rudimentary compliment of test gear, (Test gear is another whole subject!) I don't have a "tube tester". Thinking out loud,, how many modern service guys actually have access to tube testing equipment? Everyone just relies on the tube vendors?

What can a person do to test or judge tubes without a tube tester? I have been a bit apprehensive of purchasing tube testing gear for several reasons. First, I dont have enough knowledge about which tester, tests what? Or what needs to specifically tested. Not all testers are the same or useful in what attributes they test. Second, nobody makes a modern tester that can bought brand new. Vintage old equipment that is reliable might be a premium, and reqiure alot of maintence and calibration, plus most are big boat anchors that require shop space too. So short of a tube tester what can someone do to judge or grade the usefulness of tubes? One bigtime scenario that I have come upon is all these unmatched unknown tubes I have accumulated. I suppose its a symptom of my hoarding but I always save my old tubes when I put new ones in. I have one amp that would vibrate and puncture the envelope on just one tube and I ended up with alot of mismatched sets of triplicates before realizing what caused vacuum failure. Expensive when you have to buy a whole set of matched 6550's, relying on the vendor to grade them! (Ok I shoulda bought groovetubes or ruby's that grade and indicate the matched sets! But I am a comparison shopper looking for best deal and at that time unsavvy on how to spec and request a single to match my other triples!) Still am unsure how or what to request when I dont know the exact tranconductance and how current was matched with the other three. We put alot of faith in how the heck these vendors actually match a set sold to us. Dynamically in the amp may or may not be indicative, but if it is working I suppose all else matters not... Maybe that crosshatch mismatch is a good thing sonically and the old crude perception of ones own ears knows best?

Similiarly I have a rare old amp that runs exotic expensive quad of 8417's I have numerous single examples and no way to match em other than just measure individual cathode current in amp operation? (Lightbulb moment) . Accumulating tubes and trying to match them, what other way to test other than measure current draw in a test amp?

Visual physical inspection? Anything to look specifically for? Am I missing anything when I look at the following things????

I look at the plates, looking for deformation, warpage, signs of overheating. I look at the mica standoff and spacer, making sure the components are secure, I also hold the tube and tap the envelope with my forefinger, feeling if the interior vibrates or rattles and possibly microphonic. I view the silver deposit on the glass around the getters, looking to see how solid the deposit and how opaque and no haziness cloudy or dull flaking for indications of vacuum failure, I also look at the glass for any other evidence of foriegn or dark dirty burnt deposits such as vaporization of the interior components deposited upon the glass. I check that the leads arent broken or arc'd below the plates and where they exit the envelope.

Is this sound methodology? Or does it really prove norhing? I hate to place a tube in an amp only to have it be internally shorted and take out my newly built or overhauled amplifier. Its happened before, luckily with just a screen resistor. But would hate to fry a circuit board on say my 74 marshall!

My collection of old and desirable vintage tubes is growing steadily. Its interesting and fun to roll some of them through my own amps on the bench as I gain a better appreciation for the subtle nuances and tone traits of various similar tubes. But how can I be assured of reliabilty of the tubes life once I button up the amp and want to put it to use? ESPECIALLY WORRYSOME IS RELIABILTY OF POWER TUBE DISCOVERIES!

Even more so is the fact that as I have refined my ear and experience at judging tone, more and more acquaintences look to me for tone and setting up their amps! A big starting point and cornerstone to my toneprinting begins with Vintage and/or NOS premium tubes. Many times my tube precurement must resort to antique salvage used finds of these devices. When used for non-personal gear, and professionally performing gear reliabilty now becomes a liability issue, not just an inconvienence. And...... what to do about all those unmatched singles I have collected? How many single ended amp builds can you have? I got a single ended of every popular audio tube,,, either breadboarded or housed in lunchboxes, tupperware, even inside an old dreadnought... !

Maybe I could build a benchtop test amp thingamajiggy. Could run some dynamic testing? What features would you include on such a project? What would you measure and how could it be incorporated into the test amp?

Finally what traits make certain tubes stand out as being exceptional tubes? I have limited experience with a few of those holy grail NOS tubes and some of them were nothing spectacular. A set of Mullards stands out as being very uninspiring. I have others such as a pair of mediocre sylvania bq6c that were relabeled as magnavox that were exceptional sounding. I put those ones aside for safe keeping! Interestingly they had failed my visual screening numerous times because of all the dark burnt looking deposits inside the glass. NOW TELEFUNKEN 12AX7 ECC803 SMOOTHPLATES.... those that I have are the gold standard. I didnt even know how premium they were back when I first had placed them in a Crate Blue Vodoo amplifier and appreciated that they worked best. No wonder why, they are all the hype, at least the few working examples I have. However, I just noticed the bids that some have been getting on Ebay,,,, if thats any indicator of the market, I am very scared! Great tube but not at over $150+ dollars with or without orig box!

Also as I proofread I had another question about why I am hoarding numerous tubes with no vacuum? Could they somehow have a new envelope blown and if soneone could draw down a powerful enough vacuum? I know not many places to find that strong a vacuum but, I have crossed that bridge before in the other direction and now have access to 4800-6000psi compressed air! So might not be practical but is it feasible given the tenacity,, could new life come to lets say some ultra premium uber expensive tube examples in which the envelope had failed and breached in air? I just cant seem to throw some things away!

So if I havent worn out my welcome what has Myles or anyone else have to say on the subject of tubes, old tubes, used tubes, NOS tubes or just usefulness of tubes in general?????????

 

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Thanks Myles for all your good Karma and always "paying it forward" to assist others.

When it comes to my interests and hobbies, I can get into it and go on and on! I am fascinated with the subjectivity of tone and the expression of tone through the use of valve amplification technologies. With your knowledge, experiences and contributions that you have made in the quest for tone,,,,, Just saying, that I am sure that I have enough questions and interest in your opinions that you could probably write a book. So if I start getting carried away or what not,,,, I hope someone will let me know "hey dude your hogging the forum" or "just quit now, with bothering the man!"

Ok with that above disclaimer above said and without having reached my limit on Questions for Myles, Here's more general material for Myles to ponder and maybe could be helpful for others beside myself.....

VINTAGE TUBES? USED TUBES? OLD TUBES? BACKUP TUBES? ECT.......

What ways can a person judge and decide if an older tube is still serviceable or worthy? I have been more and more often coming up on old classic used tubes and such. Some old tube brands are in such high demand that prices for even used tubes have become ridiculous! As an amatuer enthusiast and not fully professional service man (person) .... I have fairly rudimentary compliment of test gear, (Test gear is another whole subject!) I don't have a "tube tester". Thinking out loud,, how many modern service guys actually have access to tube testing equipment? Everyone just relies on the tube vendors?

What can a person do to test or judge tubes without a tube tester? I have been a bit apprehensive of purchasing tube testing gear for several reasons. First, I dont have enough knowledge about which tester, tests what? Or what needs to specifically tested. Not all testers are the same or useful in what attributes they test. Second, nobody makes a modern tester that can bought brand new. Vintage old equipment that is reliable might be a premium, and reqiure alot of maintence and calibration, plus most are big boat anchors that require shop space too. So short of a tube tester what can someone do to judge or grade the usefulness of tubes? One bigtime scenario that I have come upon is all these unmatched unknown tubes I have accumulated. I suppose its a symptom of my hoarding but I always save my old tubes when I put new ones in. I have one amp that would vibrate and puncture the envelope on just one tube and I ended up with alot of mismatched sets of triplicates before realizing what caused vacuum failure. Expensive when you have to buy a whole set of matched 6550's, relying on the vendor to grade them! (Ok I shoulda bought groovetubes or ruby's that grade and indicate the matched sets! But I am a comparison shopper looking for best deal and at that time unsavvy on how to spec and request a single to match my other triples!) Still am unsure how or what to request when I dont know the exact tranconductance and how current was matched with the other three. We put alot of faith in how the heck these vendors actually match a set sold to us. Dynamically in the amp may or may not be indicative, but if it is working I suppose all else matters not... Maybe that crosshatch mismatch is a good thing sonically and the old crude perception of ones own ears knows best?

Similiarly I have a rare old amp that runs exotic expensive quad of 8417's I have numerous single examples and no way to match em other than just measure individual cathode current in amp operation? (Lightbulb moment) . Accumulating tubes and trying to match them, what other way to test other than measure current draw in a test amp?

Visual physical inspection? Anything to look specifically for? Am I missing anything when I look at the following things????

I look at the plates, looking for deformation, warpage, signs of overheating. I look at the mica standoff and spacer, making sure the components are secure, I also hold the tube and tap the envelope with my forefinger, feeling if the interior vibrates or rattles and possibly microphonic. I view the silver deposit on the glass around the getters, looking to see how solid the deposit and how opaque and no haziness cloudy or dull flaking for indications of vacuum failure, I also look at the glass for any other evidence of foriegn or dark dirty burnt deposits such as vaporization of the interior components deposited upon the glass. I check that the leads arent broken or arc'd below the plates and where they exit the envelope.

Is this sound methodology? Or does it really prove norhing? I hate to place a tube in an amp only to have it be internally shorted and take out my newly built or overhauled amplifier. Its happened before, luckily with just a screen resistor. But would hate to fry a circuit board on say my 74 marshall!

My collection of old and desirable vintage tubes is growing steadily. Its interesting and fun to roll some of them through my own amps on the bench as I gain a better appreciation for the subtle nuances and tone traits of various similar tubes. But how can I be assured of reliabilty of the tubes life once I button up the amp and want to put it to use? ESPECIALLY WORRYSOME IS RELIABILTY OF POWER TUBE DISCOVERIES!

Even more so is the fact that as I have refined my ear and experience at judging tone, more and more acquaintences look to me for tone and setting up their amps! A big starting point and cornerstone to my toneprinting begins with Vintage and/or NOS premium tubes. Many times my tube precurement must resort to antique salvage used finds of these devices. When used for non-personal gear, and professionally performing gear reliabilty now becomes a liability issue, not just an inconvienence. And...... what to do about all those unmatched singles I have collected? How many single ended amp builds can you have? I got a single ended of every popular audio tube,,, either breadboarded or housed in lunchboxes, tupperware, even inside an old dreadnought... !

Maybe I could build a benchtop test amp thingamajiggy. Could run some dynamic testing? What features would you include on such a project? What would you measure and how could it be incorporated into the test amp?

Finally what traits make certain tubes stand out as being exceptional tubes? I have limited experience with a few of those holy grail NOS tubes and some of them were nothing spectacular. A set of Mullards stands out as being very uninspiring. I have others such as a pair of mediocre sylvania bq6c that were relabeled as magnavox that were exceptional sounding. I put those ones aside for safe keeping! Interestingly they had failed my visual screening numerous times because of all the dark burnt looking deposits inside the glass. NOW TELEFUNKEN 12AX7 ECC803 SMOOTHPLATES.... those that I have are the gold standard. I didnt even know how premium they were back when I first had placed them in a Crate Blue Vodoo amplifier and appreciated that they worked best. No wonder why, they are all the hype, at least the few working examples I have. However, I just noticed the bids that some have been getting on Ebay,,,, if thats any indicator of the market, I am very scared! Great tube but not at over $150+ dollars with or without orig box!

Also as I proofread I had another question about why I am hoarding numerous tubes with no vacuum? Could they somehow have a new envelope blown and if soneone could draw down a powerful enough vacuum? I know not many places to find that strong a vacuum but, I have crossed that bridge before in the other direction and now have access to 4800-6000psi compressed air! So might not be practical but is it feasible given the tenacity,, could new life come to lets say some ultra premium uber expensive tube examples in which the envelope had failed and breached in air? I just cant seem to throw some things away!

So if I havent worn out my welcome what has Myles or anyone else have to say on the subject of tubes, old tubes, used tubes, NOS tubes or just usefulness of tubes in general?????????

 

Can you list the questions one at a time in their own sentence? I am not sure what you are asking

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Scott,

 

If in Garden Grove it may very well be true. Like I said, I always supply paperwork.

 

There are many things you can do to a Peavey Classic 30. They are .... well .... classics ;)

 

Sorry for a late response, but I had some family stuff I had to attend to.

 

Regarding the things you can do to a Classic 30, is that something I should email you about? I've heard of a Blue Mod, but don't know anything about it.

Les Paul Studio Deluxe, '74 Guild S100, '64 Strat, JCM 900 Combo, Peavey Classic 30 1x12, Peavey Classic 30 Head, CBG
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Scott,

 

If in Garden Grove it may very well be true. Like I said, I always supply paperwork.

 

There are many things you can do to a Peavey Classic 30. They are .... well .... classics ;)

 

Sorry for a late response, but I had some family stuff I had to attend to.

 

Regarding the things you can do to a Classic 30, is that something I should email you about? I've heard of a Blue Mod, but don't know anything about it.

 

Just leave it alone. They are fine stock and not worth doing expensive upgrades as the return is negligible.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hey Myles,

Yes, more specifically my questions regarding tubes...

Faced with a growing collection of used and unpaired unmatched tubes,,, How to go about grading and matching them?

1: Is there any visiable physical characteristics to determine the condition or health of a tube?

2: Having a selection of several same output tubes, how can you determine which ones may be closest matching?

3: Can you match by simply installing and measuring cathode current?

4: Would it be pratical to build a dynamic benchtop test amplifier jig to match tubes? What features would you incorporate?

5: Tube testing equipment? Any particular test equipment you recommend or equipment vendors you find attractive? Price Points?

6: Rare/exotic/expensive tubes... Theoretically, if a tube has a broken or compromised envelope, could the interior components be saved/reused/recycled if someone could blow a new envelope and had a vacuum that sucked enough to draw the multiple "TOR" of proper magnitude for the immense vacuum required? (This assumes that the tube was not in service or subject to any current when exposed to air) Could the getters be reflashed?

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Scott,

 

If in Garden Grove it may very well be true. Like I said, I always supply paperwork.

 

There are many things you can do to a Peavey Classic 30. They are .... well .... classics ;)

 

Sorry for a late response, but I had some family stuff I had to attend to.

 

Regarding the things you can do to a Classic 30, is that something I should email you about? I've heard of a Blue Mod, but don't know anything about it.

 

Just leave it alone. They are fine stock and not worth doing expensive upgrades as the return is negligible.

 

 

:2thu:

Les Paul Studio Deluxe, '74 Guild S100, '64 Strat, JCM 900 Combo, Peavey Classic 30 1x12, Peavey Classic 30 Head, CBG
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Hey Myles,

Yes, more specifically my questions regarding tubes...

Faced with a growing collection of used and unpaired unmatched tubes,,, How to go about grading and matching them?

1: Is there any visiable physical characteristics to determine the condition or health of a tube? - no

 

2: Having a selection of several same output tubes, how can you determine which ones may be closest matching? - MEASURE THEM ON A TESTER.

 

3: Can you match by simply installing and measuring cathode current? - YES. PLATE CURRENT AT IDLE IN AN AMP IS A GREAT TESTER.

 

4: Would it be pratical to build a dynamic benchtop test amplifier jig to match tubes? What features would you incorporate? - THERE ARE SOME GREAT TESTERS OUT THERE. I WOULD FIND NO REASON TO BUILD ONE YOURSELF UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO IT FOR FUN OF A BUILDING PROJECT.

 

5: Tube testing equipment? Any particular test equipment you recommend or equipment vendors you find attractive? Price Points? - I THINK THE MAXI MATCHER UNITS ARE A GOOD DEAL, TELL YOU WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW AND ARE RELIABLE.

 

6: Rare/exotic/expensive tubes... Theoretically, if a tube has a broken or compromised envelope, could the interior components be saved/reused/recycled if someone could blow a new envelope and had a vacuum that sucked enough to draw the multiple "TOR" of proper magnitude for the immense vacuum required? (This assumes that the tube was not in service or subject to any current when exposed to air) Could the getters be reflashed? - THROW IT AWAY.

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hey, Myles!

 

I'd love to know what you think of these two products from Orange (links posted below), particularly the DIVO OV4- and, do you think it (this DIVO OV4) could be adapted for use with a fixed-bias 4xEL84 amp by socket-adapters or re-wiring with the required sockets? If it's half what it's cracked up to be, I think I'd really like that in my (fixed bias) Carvin Vintage 33...

 

Thanks!

 

Orange DIVO OV4

 

DIVO (dee vo) OV4 automatically adjusts the bias of your power valves to ensure their full potential is realised. It monitors your amps performance and isolates faulty valves during failures, running at half power until the valves can be changed. Experiment with different valves [tubes] in each socket without modifying the amp. DIVO even increases the lifespan of your power valves! Dont go dead on stage ever againDIVO makes that possible. Visit OrangeAmps.com for more information.

 

Built into an aluminium case about the size of a small paperback, the OV4 module comes with both a bracket and strong industrial Velcro fixings

 

Once set, the OV4 continually micro-adjusts the bias current for each individual valve, keeping the amp running at peak efficiency. It also means that you can run any combination of standard octal power valve you like, although pairs, such as 6L6s and EL34s are more useful.

 

With no audio present, the OV4 can automatically drop the bias current to a lower setting to reduce wear and tear, instantly returning to its higher level when audio is detected.

 

In the event of a valve fault, an algorithm shuts off the affected pair automatically and remembers which valves are at fault, displaying them on warning LEDs, as well as in the software, while also keeping a record of how many hours use the amp has had, both with and without audio.

 

The jack socket connects to a standard footswitch letting you switch the amp from full power (all four valves on) to half power, moreover the share the wear function remembers which pair of valves were switched off the last time and alternates them, keeping wear as even as possible, although if you use two different pairs of valves, such as 6L6s and EL34s, you can use this as a tone option, swapping from one pair to the other.

 

orange-divo-cut-660-80-600x450.jpg

 

Orange DIVO VT1000 Valve Tester

 

VT1000-Top-View-675x450.jpg

 

The compact and extremely easy to use VT1000 is a fully automatic valve tester, which performs a wide range of tests quickly and accurately. The benefits of using the VT1000 are clear and wide reaching; users can quickly and simply match and test valves, plus receive a reliable health check as to whether their valves are good, bad or worn.

 

Orange Amps developed the worlds first fully automatic, portable, digital valve tester, the VT1000, to make it easy to test amp valves. Until now testing valves with little or no knowledge of valve theory was difficult, expensive and often unreliable. This new product will test all popular power and pre-amp valves. Its ease of use will appeal to all valve users whether amateur, professional or in the music retail trade.

 

The unit has one octal and two nine pin valve sockets for different valve types; simply insert the valve to be tested into the correct socket, select the valve type from the list on the unit and press OK to test. The results are displayed clearly and concisely using LEDs and will test for a wide range of fault conditions, which could easily cause damage to other components. The simplicity of operation belies what is going on inside the box, where a CPU controlled testing system is in operation, allowing full control over all inter-electrode switching and measurement operations.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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The first item from my POV is pointless, not necessary if you properly maintain your amp, and is just one more point of failure.

 

The second item ... the tube tester .... I wrote a piece on this unit in a facebook note after I was asked about it by many folks:

 

https://www.facebook.com/notes/myles-rose/orange-tube-tester/10151556511311711

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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The first item from my POV is pointless, not necessary if you properly maintain your amp, and is just one more point of failure.

 

The second item ... the tube tester .... I wrote a piece on this unit in a facebook note after I was asked about it by many folks:

 

https://www.facebook.com/notes/myles-rose/orange-tube-tester/10151556511311711

 

Thank you, once again, for your experienced, insightful, frank and candid advice, Myles!

 

One thing that I wondered about concerning the DIVO OV4 was, when it switches an "amp from full power (all four valves on) to half power" (two valves on) and back, how does it manage to correspondingly switch the OT/speaker impedance to match? :confused:

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Say, Myles... I'd love to hear your suggestions for either good bulk cable and quality, compact 90° angle 1/4" plugs (SOLDERED- NOT "Solderless"!), or pre-packaged kits of the same, for wiring-up a pedal-board with cut-to-length cable and space-saving 90° angle plugs. (I have power-supply cables, etc. all covered.)

 

Not only cable and plugs, but where to buy 'em.

 

I'm searchin' around, but you might have good suggestions I might overlook.

 

I'd like to find a good balance between appreciable, DURABLE quality and bang-for-the-buck price.

 

I have a mess of OK quality 6" and 12" molded patch cables that have served me well for more than a good six and a half years now, but they're finally starting to fail one after another. I have to replace them, and I may as well do this right!

 

Thanks!

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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I like the stuff from Brian at http://www.colossalcable.com

 

Maybe see if he will sell some of his components. If not, I like http://www.neutrik.us/ and Belden cable if you are making your own.

 

You can get just about anything from these folks - https://www.tubesandmore.com when it comes to parts.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hey again again, Myles. :cool:

 

My Carvin Vintage 33 has been acting weird; randomly going down and up in volume, or cutting out altogether- pilot light still lit, no crackles or pops or hum or anything, just random changes in volume or nothing at all...

 

Not cables or anything else; swapped cables, removed all pedals from the input and effects-loop, so one way or another, it's within the amp. (Will double-check to be sure of whether or not it's the guitar later, but I don't think it is.)

 

What are the things you'd suspect?

 

Thanks again, again!

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Could be many things. Bad resistor, socket, tube. Time for the amp to see a pros bench.

 

Yeah... I've been figuring that... I'll probably take it over to Voodoo Amps in Lansing.

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Could be many things. Bad resistor, socket, tube. Time for the amp to see a pros bench.

 

Yeah... I've been figuring that... I'll probably take it over to Voodoo Amps in Lansing.

 

Update: I've found that this is limited to the "Soak" Channel ("Lead"/overdrive/distortion channel); Channel 1, the "Clean/"Rhythm" channel, is unaffected. This seems like GOOD news to me, as it seems to narrow it down to smaller, less expensive faults than might be...

 

Another update: At the word "Carvin" (on the phone), "Voodoo" said, "NO. I won't work on any Carvin amps again, never, never, never, ever, ever, ever. EVER." I was hoping not to have to ship this off anywhere, and find a good, qualified, experienced tech within reasonable driving-distance for drop-off and pick-up... :facepalm::rolleyes:

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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  • 2 months later...

My old 65 Twin is being rebuilt. I have not used it since 92 when I started playing Boogie. My amp guy say it will be better than new.

 

I am considering tubing it with Boogie tubes because Boogie maintains that their tubes are in spec. My hope is that once biased to the Boogie tubes I won't have to worry about biasing the amp when changing tubes in the future.

 

Is anyone else has tubes that are consistently in spec?

 

Also the speakers feel mushy. I didn't dare start the amp without it being on a variac. It has been in storage since 92. I am guessing I will want new speakers. I am a fan of the Bakersfield sound and I am a modern country player. Any speaker recommendations? I have had good luck with Eminence drivers in my Leslies.

 

Thanks.

"It doesn't have to be difficult to be cool" - Mitch Towne

 

"A great musician can bring tears to your eyes!!!

So can a auto Mechanic." - Stokes Hunt

 

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My old 65 Twin is being rebuilt. I have not used it since 92 when I started playing Boogie. My amp guy say it will be better than new.

 

I am considering tubing it with Boogie tubes because Boogie maintains that their tubes are in spec. My hope is that once biased to the Boogie tubes I won't have to worry about biasing the amp when changing tubes in the future.

 

Is anyone else has tubes that are consistently in spec?

 

Also the speakers feel mushy. I didn't dare start the amp without it being on a variac. It has been in storage since 92. I am guessing I will want new speakers. I am a fan of the Bakersfield sound and I am a modern country player. Any speaker recommendations? I have had good luck with Eminence drivers in my Leslies.

 

Thanks.

 

Today's tube consistency is worse than ever. I wrote this piece a number of years ago and the Mesa info is still quite valid. Mesa does a good job of matching so just stay with blue or whites and you will be fine. Those are spec tubes. You can also use green and gray but they are a little softer.

 

But ..... you can also develop a relationship with a good tube vendor and tell him you want proper spec tubes and have them and you save the plate current data for future replacement tubes. This is more accurate and allows a wider selection of tubes.

 

Vendors that do this for me that I recommend are:

 

www.kcanostubes.com (Mike)

www.dougstubes.com (Doug)

 

My matching document is at http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/Rating.html

 

 

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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..... you can also develop a relationship with a good tube vendor and tell him you want proper spec tubes and have them and you save the plate current data for future replacement tubes. This is more accurate and allows a wider selection of tubes.

 

Vendors that do this for me that I recommend are:

 

www.kcanostubes.com (Mike)

www.dougstubes.com (Doug)

 

 

I have done business with both Doug at Doug's Tubes and Mike at KCA NOS Tubes and have been very happy with them. Great recommendations!

Ask yourself- What Would Ren and Stimpy Do?

 

~ Caevan James-Michael Miller-O'Shite ~

_ ___ _ Leprechaun, Esquire _ ___ _

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Thanks. I figured the Boogie's tubes had to be consistent. Randall used to say they refused a lot of tubes. Boogie does not include bias adjustments on their amps so I figured their tubes needed to be some what consistent. But they have to buy from the same suppliers as everyone else. Also all the new components will be much lower tolerance than the original stock Fender parts may be that helps. I'm just a guitar player. I don't know this stuff really works.

 

I kind of anxious see how this rebuild goes. I liked the old amp back in the day. When I was 25 I just thought I had to have a Boogie and quit using the Twin.

"It doesn't have to be difficult to be cool" - Mitch Towne

 

"A great musician can bring tears to your eyes!!!

So can a auto Mechanic." - Stokes Hunt

 

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