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OT: The awesome power of nature.


surfergirl

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Wow surfergirl. The pipe is awesome, always has been. Nothing like a 10 footer breaking in 4 feet of water to get your heart a pumpin.

 

I never surfed big Hawaii, I did a little bit of small waves near Hanalei bay in Kauai back in the mid 1970's The day Hanalei bay broke big, I stayed on the beach, we had small twin fin boards 6' or so, too loose for big Hanalei bay. Everyone there were surfing big guns. I was awed. We went a little bit more north (I think) and surfed a smaller beach break.

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Those waves are beyond my skill level. Unfortunately there are always a few who don't know there skill level and are a danger to themselves and others.

 

My skill level was decent. I started surfing in my mid 30's I did surf some double overhead waves in Cardiff By The Sea Ca., and maybe off of Carlsbad Ca., as well. But they were only breaking top to middle. Which made it a bunch less scary. By that time I had a Surfboards Hawaii single fin pin tail gun. And those few times were the only time I ever used that board.

 

I was a small wave rider of course from the East Coast of the USA. I surfed mostly twin fins and when the 3 fin thrust-er came out I built a few of those.

 

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Those waves are beyond my skill level. Unfortunately there are always a few who don't know there skill level and are a danger to themselves and others.

 

They are above my pay grade too LOL! But they are beautiful and make me want to get back in the water (Not!)...My surfing 6 years of experience was during my grade school and high school days. I had a 9 foot O'Neill and surfed the beaches around the Santa Cruz area. We had our own little secret beach we called Beer Can. The waves were seldom over four feet. We just loved spending our time there over the years and never considered ourselves much more than beginners, but we had a lot of fun. We also played surf music in our little Ventures band when we were not at the beach. Those were some great times... :cool:

 

ps. our little surf band from back in those days (65 - 69) just played a gig this last Sunday. My drummer's step daughter got married and wanted us old guys to play a set for the wedding before the DJ took over. The 1st tune was Misirlou and the last tune was Pipeline. That brought back some memories and the people enjoyed the oldies us old Granpas played in between... :cool:

Take care, Larryz
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