I have gotten two 8 ft bass traps in two of the corners. Somehow an 8 ft trap doesn't fit easily into an 8 ft corner.
my last 8 ft trap needs to be able to be moved into the corner where the door is when I'm recording and then pulled back out when I'm done so I can open the door. Right now I could get it into the corner by tapping on the bottom edges until it fits but then I wouldn't be able to get it back out. Is it OK to sit it in the corner in a way that it is not snug so I can easily take it out when I'm done recording?
I can lean the top of the trap into the ceiling corner and then let the bottom of the trap be a little bit away from the wall at the bottom so air and sound could easily go behind the trap at the bottom. Will this still work to trap bass??
I've also tapped on the corners of this trap to attempt to bend the corner bead frame so the trap is a little shorter but I haven't been able to make it short enough yet.

WOW, this room is going to look a lot smaller when all these traps are up! I can't believe how much smaller it looks when using the 4 ft traps in the lateral corners where the wall and ceiling meet.

You should be fine that way. The air gap (within reason) you give the better it is.

Glenn

My other 8 ft corner traps are not leaving a gap. I had to wedge them into the corner so they are snug at the top and bottom and the sides are touching the walls of the room. Is this bad?? Should I try to bring them out a little bit??

To get the most low end absorption out of the panels, keep them snug to the wall.

I've discovered another problem. In the one lateral corner between the ceiling and wall I don't think I have enough room to put a 2'x4' trap because I have a closet on that wall and there is oak trim around the two closet doors and I only have 1 ft. clearance between the top of the trim and the ceiling. What are some options??
Could I just make a trap that is only 1 ft wide for that area??
THis room is really looking weird with all the traps. The room looks even smaller.

Also, I did my best to get the FSK glued to the panels with 3M super strength glue but if there are some small areas where there is no glue between the FSK and panel will the panel still absorb bass as well? Will it still reflect the mids and highs as well?? I really appreciate help with all these issues.

You never stated [in this thread, anyway] if you're building wood panel bass traps or using rigid fiberglass only. So just to clarify:

Rigid fiberglass works best straddling corners or with an air gap if parallel to a wall or ceiling. Wood panels traps work best flat on the wall with no space.

> I only have 1 ft. clearance between the top of the trim and the ceiling. <

If you're using rigid fiberglass only, keep it the full 2 feet wide but change the angle as needed so it still straddles the corner as best you can manage. That's better than making the panel narrower.

> THis room is really looking weird with all the traps. <

Remember: A bunch of panels does not look wierd, it looks cool.

> if there are some small areas where there is no glue between the FSK and panel will the panel still absorb bass as well? <

Hard to say. If there are only a few small places with no glue it should be okay.

> Will it still reflect the mids and highs as well?? <

Yes.

--Ethan

Thanks Ethan. I made the panels out of 2" mineral wool panels doubled up to 4" thick. I made frames out of corner bead. Would it be OK if I didn't treat one of the lateral corners if the other 3 were treated? Does anyone have any good ideas on how to space the mid/high absorbers a couple of inches off the wall when I hang them so I get a little better bass absorption out of them??

Treat all 4 corners. If one has to sit at an angle other than 45 degrees - still better than nothing and you still maintain symmetry.

To space the panels off the wall, if they're framed, just attach some legs/feet to the back of the panel. How much you can do depends on the mounting method. If you do solid feet and are hanging just on wire and nail, then plan on moving the wire or changing the nail to a hook.

Bryan

I am using plastic tie wraps to hang the panels. They do seem to be really strong but do you think they are strong enough to hold the panels indefinetly??
Also I am planning on only using 3 mid/high absorbers and space them off the wall. The panels are 2'x4'. Could these mid/high absorbers make the room sound too dead?
Should I forget diffusors altogether??

Hard to tell with the ties - I'd just check them periodically for the first few months and see if they're stretching over time.

I seriously doubt that 3 2'x4' mid/high panels will make things sound to dead.

Thanks. I found another solution to fix the problem with the Gorilla tape showing through the muslin. If I just cut strips of muslin the same width and length as the gorilla tape and glue them over the areas where the gorillla tape shows through it will cover the gorilla tape. On my mid high absorbers I will probably wrap polester batting around the whole panel before I glue the muslin cover on so they should look fine. Hopefully I will eventually have this room sounding good. I'm ready to start recording again.

Any chance you can add a few pictures of the construction work ? Thanks !!

I'm not sure how to add pictures but one of the other messages posted of this forum showed how to make the traps using corner bead, etc. like I'm doing.