Hello:
I'm debating if I should spend a little extra money and buy the bass traps I want to experiment with vs making them myself.

My question is: does anyone know how the Auralex Lenrd traps would compare acoustically with 4" thick 2'x4' panels floor to ceiling in the corners of a room? The Auralex traps wuld be floor to ceiling too.
Regards,

Richard

Sorry, but IMO, there's no comparison. Even if they did the same job per square foot, the DIY panels will give you about 50% more square footage - not to mention bringing the face out about 4-5" farther from the corner - and at most likely half the price.

Bryan

Thanks bpape. I'm going to try the DIY way.

In my home theater room I have drapes on the walls and across the corners at the screen end. My plan is to put the panels behind the drapes in the corner for starters.

Do you see any problems with doing this?

Regards,

Richard

Nope. For bass control, having them behind a curtain won't change things at all.

Hello again:
A couple more questions if I may:
1. Since the panels will be behind a drape I plan on covering them only with 1 mil plastic drop cloth and fastening them to two lengths of angle iron which will be spaced about 18" apart horizontaly. The angle iron will also go from floor to ceiling. I hope this construction is clear.
Question is: Is this construction sturdy enough or is a frame of some sort need?

2. I plan on using two layers of 2" thick OC 703.
Question is: Is it better if one of the layers is plain 703 and the other FRK 703? And if this is better how should the two layers be joined? ie: FRK on the back or front of the first layer or back or front of the second layer. First layer being the layer you can see.

Thanks in advance,
Richard

Hello:
I more time.

I am under the impression that an Auralex LENRD trap measures 12 inches along the side. This means it's about 17 inches along the face.

Being an economical guy I can cut a 24" x 48" panel into three pieces each piece being 16 inches by 24 inches. So I have 16 inches of face width instead of the Auralex 17 inches.

If I then stack these panels with the 16 inch side across the corners between walls I have 60 linear inches of trap instead of 48 inches.

However, my trap is now 16 inches wide instead of 24 inches.

Question: Is this a significant difference as far as performance goes?

Regards,
Richard

The construction should be fine. If you're going to do an FRK/FSK facing, there should be no need for the plastic.

As for the sizing, while you have 12 more inches of corner covered, you have make each foot of the absorber, 1/3 less wide and more importantly, reduced the spacing behind the absorber.

Realistically from a cost perspective, you're only talking about saving < $20 to do the longer AND wider absorbers.

Hello bpape:
I really appreciate your taking time to answer my questions.

I understand now about the reduced space behind the absorber.

I don't understand about the FRK facing. I thought it was on one side only. Is it on both sides?

Regards,

Richard

It's only one side - but the other side is 'trapped' behind the panel so no need to cover it.

Hello:
Just wanted to share that I have installed my first two DIY bass traps in the front corners of my HT. Speakers are at this end. Used OC 703 2" doubled to 4" thick, floor to ceiling traps.

Difference in sound is drastic. Before traps I felt I was in the center row seat of a symphony hall. After traps I feel I am now almost on the podium. Music surrounds me, bass is tight ( I think that the word), instruments are clear and sharp.

Next I will be working on the rear corners.

Thanks for all your help.

Regards,
Richard

Welcome to the "now I get it" club. Enjoy the music.

Glenn

Zactly. And think about how cost effective it was for that improvement...

Bryan

Hello:
I took some photos of the traps and thought it might be of some interest.

The trap is made from Owens Corning 703 fiberglass insulation.

The ceiling in this corner is 10’ tall and the trap consists of four 2” x 2’ x 4’ panels and two 2” x 2’ x 2’ panels. The panels are doubled up to be 4” thick. They are wrapped with 1 mil plastic sheet (painting drop cloth) to contain any loose fibers. Generally the panel would have a frame and some decorative fabric cover but since I have them behind drapes I only covered them with the plastic.

To hold the panels together I used two 10’ lengths of Drywall corner bead spaced about 18” apart, screwed to the panel and the assembly wrapped with duct tape.

The first photo is of a typical panel. In this photo it is half of a 2” x 2’ x 4’ panel.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141149/DCP_0014.jpg

The second photo is of the panel placed in the corner of the room behind the AR 9 speaker. The red drape at the top is for ascetic purposes.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141149/DCP_0015.jpg

The second photo is with the drape in place in front of the panel.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141149/DCP_0013.jpg

Regards,
Richard

Nice cammo job.

Hello:
If needed I want to start adding some mid/hi range freq. panels to the room but wonder if the drapes are providing enough absorption in this freq range.
On each side of the room are four drapes that go from floor to ceiling. Each drape is about 2 ft. wide and they are spaced about 4 ft apart.

Does anyone think I still need separate absorption panels?

Regards,
Richard

Richard,

> On each side of the room are four drapes that go from floor to ceiling ... Does anyone think I still need separate absorption panels? <

Yes, because drapes don't absorb to a low enough frequency. They'll take the edge off the worst of the echoes, but they're useless at 500 Hz, for example. All rooms need broadband absorption that works well to as low a frequency as possible.

--Ethan

Thanks Ethan