hey, Ethan, gotta couple of quick question for you. i found your diy plans for the lo and high bass traps and hi/mid absorbers. are these basically what you manufacture as real traps? either way, thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge.

in these plans, it presents profiles of the panels. are the sides to be left open as they appear in the diagrams or, as in the case of the deep bass trap, should the 1x4 shown essentially at just the top and bottom of the trap also enclose the sides with caulk/glue applied to all points where solid surfaces meet?

also, whereas the trap is mounted airtight and apparently caulked to the wall, could one build the trap mounted to a sheet of plywood, thus you could move the trap if you wanted and not destroy the sheetrock underneath?

thanks, your advice is greatly appreciated

KC,

> are these basically what you manufacture as real traps? <

No. My company's MiniTraps work on an entirely different principle, and they're even better than wood panel traps. But panel traps are very good too!

> are the sides to be left open <

No! Those drawings show a top view. All four sides must be closed, and caulked very well to be sure all the seams are completely air tight.

> could one build the trap mounted to a sheet of plywood <

Yes, plywood or MDF both work well. But the back must be very thick and rigid so it doesn't flex at all. Use at least 3/4 inch thick wood or MDF.

--Ethan

Thanks, buddy!

Hey Kcubbins,

I just did the same thing... built panel traps on 3/4" plywood.

They turned out great, but I had to ask Ethan for advice on mounting them. He said to rip 1x4s at a 45 degree angle. Then attach a half to the wall with toggles, and attach the other half to the back of the trap. Then "mate" them to hang them. Here's the pic:

Thats how mine hang. The cool part.. I built mine a little large, and they hang a few inched off the floor just above the baseboard. I can slip the tounge of a dolly under them, and lift them right off the wall, cart them away if ti ever need to do so.

Bill