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Originally posted by Stephen J:

Hi Myles- I am considering a '64 Ampeg Reverberocket.Would I be able to run my UniValve through it as you describe in the ultimate blues tone? Also and more importantly do I need to be concerned about the power tubes this amp runs, and if so is a mod to 6v6 reasonable have done. The price is $300.- I'm thinking I'd like to move on it for the clean with reverb& trem. Thoughts are appreciated. Steve

Steve ....

 

Forget the Univalve with this amp. Sure, it would work fine, but the Ampeg is one of the best blues amps, and rock amps around. They were more expensive than Fender amps, and rightly so ... their reverb was generally better technically, and the reason for their less popular nature was their cost.

 

$300 is great, thank goodness folks don't raise these amps to "boutique" status! Use these amps as they are .... and even with a 6V6 mod, they are super.

 

Myles

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

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Hey Myles,

 

I hope this hasn't been covered a zillion times, but I got a Mesa/Boogie .50 Caliber+ Combo and I need to re-tube the thing. I use to have the head and it gave me an crunchy Mesa-tone with Power. The Combo is not delivering, and I think it's the tubes. I had a friend way back with the same combo, and his sounded better than my head. The tubes that are in there now are, well the two big ones are L6 GC Mesa STR 420. On the silver strip it says 13 TW WHT. As you can see, I'm not well-versed in tubes yet. I don't know what pre-amp tubes I got in there, but regardless of that, You got any suggestions? I'm looking for a dark, wicked, powerful Mesa tone.

 

Thanks,

 

Jedi

"All conditioned things are impermanent. Work out your own salvation with diligence."

 

The Buddha's Last Words

 

R.I.P. RobT

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Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by skip:

Hi Myles

Back to the `dangers of unattended amps` topic-I went back to N.Y. recently and, sure enough, some of the control pots on both my amp channels have a `dry` feel, like they turn too easily. I take it these pots must now be replaced?

Skip ....

 

GREAT post by the way. This has not come up before, but it's super that you brought it up.

 

On pots ....

 

Back in the earlier days of stereo, Japanese companies like Sansui and Pioneer, thought that it felt "rich" if a pot was damped, and felt sort of smooth and stiff. This was done by friction means, sometime by oil filled pots, and voila ... it was soon thought that stiff pots were better.

 

This is NOT the case at all. Go what was a six figure Neve console and try the pots and faders. Flick a fader lightly, and it will bounce off the end of its travel. Look at a Rivera amp, which use some of the most expensive pots you can buy, and how free they turn.

 

If your pots don't make noise, leave them alone. If they do make noise, try a little tuner cleaner and lube (not just cleaner, as it will dry them out). Chances are, your pots are just fine.

 

Myles

Ya, that slight resistance seems to have the psychological effect of, `this is ever so slightly

better than you deserve, peasant`

I wonder how much cost that little favor adds to the cost of production?

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Originally posted by dblackjedi:

Hey Myles,

 

I hope this hasn't been covered a zillion times, but I got a Mesa/Boogie .50 Caliber+ Combo and I need to re-tube the thing. I use to have the head and it gave me an crunchy Mesa-tone with Power. The Combo is not delivering, and I think it's the tubes. I had a friend way back with the same combo, and his sounded better than my head. The tubes that are in there now are, well the two big ones are L6 GC Mesa STR 420. On the silver strip it says 13 TW WHT. As you can see, I'm not well-versed in tubes yet. I don't know what pre-amp tubes I got in there, but regardless of that, You got any suggestions? I'm looking for a dark, wicked, powerful Mesa tone.

 

Thanks,

 

Jedi

dblackjedi ....

 

Maybe this has come up before, or maybe not ... in any case, no harm in asking!

 

The STR420's in your amp are the first weak link. They are the least desirable of Mesa's tubes, they are of Chinese manufacture, and were from the time when the Chinese tubes were down 20% on power, and also sounded less than what one would like.

 

Your preamp tubes are decent enough, but I'd change V1 and V2 also.

 

On Mesa tubes, if you want to stick with those, the best bet used to be their 454's which are Svetlana's. But ... only try these if you can get older ones, more than 3 months old, as Svetlana changed some of their process, and the latest ones leave a lot to be desired.

 

The 430's are Sovteks, and not good as a lot of others.

 

If you want your Mesa to sound strong and agressive, then you should try the 6L6S. You can get these at a cost lower than Mesa tubes, from Bob over at Eurotubes. He also will pick a set that will work much better with your Mesa's cold running set bias than the stock Mesa color range. By the way, in the GT section of my website, there is a chart that shows the Mesa color scale.

 

In any case, you can get these 6L6S's from Groove Tubes or Eurotubes. Eurotubes is at www.eurotubes.com

 

I would not buy these from folks other than GT or Bob, as the ones that are sold from The Tube Store are far from matched, no matter what they say in their advertisments. I have LOTS of tests data from their tubes, and things have not improved.

 

On the preamp tubes for V1 and V2, I use in most of my clients Mesa amps:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1586 which is a very versitile tube. If you want more agression, then go with the ECC83 - http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1587 .... but don't get the ECC83 from me, as the latest run of these (see the 12AX7 preamp test post here that folks don't seem to care about, although over on Harmony Central it is a hot subject) .... is not up to par. Get the ECC83's from Bob as he may have some older stock, and all our GT stock is new stock.

 

Hope this was of some help.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by skip:

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by skip:

Hi Myles

Back to the `dangers of unattended amps` topic-I went back to N.Y. recently and, sure enough, some of the control pots on both my amp channels have a `dry` feel, like they turn too easily. I take it these pots must now be replaced?

Skip ....

 

GREAT post by the way. This has not come up before, but it's super that you brought it up.

 

On pots ....

 

Back in the earlier days of stereo, Japanese companies like Sansui and Pioneer, thought that it felt "rich" if a pot was damped, and felt sort of smooth and stiff. This was done by friction means, sometime by oil filled pots, and voila ... it was soon thought that stiff pots were better.

 

This is NOT the case at all. Go what was a six figure Neve console and try the pots and faders. Flick a fader lightly, and it will bounce off the end of its travel. Look at a Rivera amp, which use some of the most expensive pots you can buy, and how free they turn.

 

If your pots don't make noise, leave them alone. If they do make noise, try a little tuner cleaner and lube (not just cleaner, as it will dry them out). Chances are, your pots are just fine.

 

Myles

Ya, that slight resistance seems to have the psychological effect of, `this is ever so slightly

better than you deserve, peasant`

I wonder how much cost that little favor adds to the cost of production?

The cost of production is lower, as the rest of the parts are much cheaper.

 

A nice feeling oil damped pot can be about $1.45 my cost, while a great "runny loose" pot can be five times that.

 

Myles

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Myles, my tech propose me to replace the EL34 (4) in my Seymour Duncan Convertible with Electro Harmonix or Shark tubes. I know the EH are supposed to be selected Sovteks, but what about the Shark tubes? Someone told me those could be Svetlana's.
Philippe - aka "Minnie The Moocher"- is a proud member of the Xanadu Team - visit us at www.Xanaduteam.net
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Originally posted by Minnie The Moocher:

Myles, my tech propose me to replace the EL34 (4) in my Seymour Duncan Convertible with Electro Harmonix or Shark tubes. I know the EH are supposed to be selected Sovteks, but what about the Shark tubes? Someone told me those could be Svetlana's.

Minnie ....

 

The EH arn't really "secleted" Sovteks. The Sovteks are made on one side of the Reflector Factory in Moscow on older tooling. The Electro Harmonix are made in the same factory, but on the opposite (west) side, on new tooling, that is also of different design.

 

As far as a "Shark" tube, I have NO idea what that is, but I can assure you, it is somebody elses tube with a different name on it. If it is a Svetlana, I'd steer clear of it for a while, as only Svets more than 3-5 months old are as good as they were in the past. Svetlana has changed production methods, and their vacuum seems to be weaker than in the past, and their curve traces are not even close to what they were in the past.

 

If you want an original 25 watt EL-34 sound and response, the EH is your best bet today. GT also sells this particular tube as:

 

http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1682

 

The Svetlana from GT is the R2.

 

The E34Ls, is the JJ tube, which is stronger than either of the others, a 30 watt tube. Amps using this tube need to have the bias checked. This tube is a bit different than the JJ E34L, as the plate structure has been changed using a GT developed plate structure. If you compare the two tubes visually, on the GT version you will see weleded heat sink assemblies on the plates. The KT-88SV from JJ (what used to be Tesla), is also a proprietary design off GT tooling.

 

I really like the SD amps, though they can be a bit of a bear to keep running nicely at times, especially the ones with the modules that can be changed for different sounds. In these amps I'd use the EH / GT version. The GT version also has polished rolled pins in the base, which are a bit easier on sockets, especially vintage ones, than the stamped pins that are dipped plated. The wiring in the base is also higher temp wire in many cases on the GT version.

 

If you need any more info, drop me a line.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Myles,

 

I was wondering if the is a way to tell the newest run of Svetlana 34's from earlier better tubes visually, I do like the older ones I have.

 

Also, when is that GT new-new-stock tube(the 34 type) coming out ?

 

Many thanks,

 

Lance-a-not-quite-all-there-ya-know ;)

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Originally posted by Lance-a-not:

Myles,

 

I was wondering if the is a way to tell the newest run of Svetlana 34's from earlier better tubes visually, I do like the older ones I have.

 

Also, when is that GT new-new-stock tube(the 34 type) coming out ?

 

Many thanks,

 

Lance-a-not-quite-all-there-ya-know ;)

Lance-a-not ....

 

Unfortunately, a lot of vendors remove the date code, but generally Svetlana has a date code on the tubes, that it if is still there, do not buy anything with an "02" in it for now.

 

Unless you have a Tektronix 570 ( see the photo at: http://www.groovetubes.com/product.cfm?Product_ID=1773 ... you would be hard pressed to see the differences.

 

Regards,

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Here's a voltage question.

 

I recently tested the voltage in my house and it's 125 volts. Will this hurt my 5F4 Super which was designed for 110 volts? Should I use a Variac to bring down the voltage?

 

Thanks, Gabriel

"You never can vouch for your own consciousness." - Norman Mailer
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Ok, here's one of those "should be in a book but isn't" questions:

 

I've noticed over the years... that when you first start using a tube amp after having not had it turned on in "a while", it'll make intermittant, static-like low-level noise - which, after a while, will go away. With regular use, stops. Doesn't come back.

 

I've noticed this with all different types of amps. Amps that come into the store I teach at, a guy goes "listen to this:"... I say "leave it on and go get lunch, then come back" ... no more noise.

 

I presume this is moisture in the filter caps burning off? It gets really really humid here in the sow-yuth; tubes wouldn't fix themselves, right? It seems like I should know this for sure, but I'm not sure so.... there you go...

Guitar Lessons in Augusta Georgia: www.chipmcdonald.com

Eccentric blog: https://chipmcdonaldblog.blogspot.com/

 

/ "big ass windbag" - Bruce Swedien

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Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

Here's a voltage question.

 

I recently tested the voltage in my house and it's 125 volts. Will this hurt my 5F4 Super which was designed for 110 volts? Should I use a Variac to bring down the voltage?

 

Thanks, Gabriel

Gabriel ....

 

You will be fine ... it's lower voltages that are more of a problem, as lower voltage = higher current.

 

In the case of your Super ... is it the 6L6 version, or one of the very few from 55 that used two 6V6's? The 6V6 ones are quite amazing, and I have seen over 440 B+ volts on these, so be sure to use very strong 6V6's if this is your circuit.

 

The 6V6 was the 5E4-A curcuit, but some folks call this the 5E4 and 5F4 at times.

 

The 5F4 was later in 56, and is a lot easier to keep running as Fender went to 6L6's as in the first 5E4, and those held up to the plate voltages a lot better.

 

Any of the narrow panel tweed 55-60 Supers are amazing amps. Be sure to use the original 12AY7's where they had them, it is part of the character of these amps.

 

If you want to hear one of the most amazing examples of these I have ever worked on, at Norm's Rare Guitars in Tarzana, he has a 55 5E4-A with 6V6's and the selenium rectifier for the bias. It has 448 plate volts, and most 6V6's glow red on the plates. While the tubes hold out, this is one of the most amazing sounding amps I have ever heard. This is one of those amps that proves that sustain that goes on forever does not mean one needs volume or feedback :) This amp does it at quiet speech levels.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by Chip McDonald:

Ok, here's one of those "should be in a book but isn't" questions:

 

I've noticed over the years... that when you first start using a tube amp after having not had it turned on in "a while", it'll make intermittant, static-like low-level noise - which, after a while, will go away. With regular use, stops. Doesn't come back.

 

I've noticed this with all different types of amps. Amps that come into the store I teach at, a guy goes "listen to this:"... I say "leave it on and go get lunch, then come back" ... no more noise.

 

I presume this is moisture in the filter caps burning off? It gets really really humid here in the sow-yuth; tubes wouldn't fix themselves, right? It seems like I should know this for sure, but I'm not sure so.... there you go...

Chip,

 

That noise, crackle, etc., happens for a lot of reasons. Most of it is filter caps and preamp tubes. Modern preamp tubes have so much impurities in the cathode coating, that there is all sorts of stuff going on there until the tube comes up to operating temperature. If it persists for more than a minute, get new preamp tubes for a start.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Hi Myles,

first of all I want to say that I'm gratful to you for your useful informations.

I'm now searching for a new amp. I'm thinking about a 50 w head.

My nesessities are 3 channels, effect loop(s) and possibly 2 master volumes (and naturally the other usual controls), but I have to say that I'm more interested in a good sound (obviously) than in a lot of features.

I'm willing to accept a non-super clean but I really want 2 awesome overdrive channels, versatiles enough and very sensible to eq and gain adjustments. I don't need extreme amounts of gain (just enough to play some riffs in early Metallica style ) but I want a full crunch and a screaming lead (as maybe all other guitarists....).

Are you so kind to give me some advices thanks to your experience?

P.s. More or less I can spend 1000 $ for a new head. I'm also open to used solutions.

Thank you very much and sorry for my english...... I'm italian.

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Originally posted by paranoid:

Hi Myles,

first of all I want to say that I'm gratful to you for your useful informations.

I'm now searching for a new amp. I'm thinking about a 50 w head.

My nesessities are 3 channels, effect loop(s) and possibly 2 master volumes (and naturally the other usual controls), but I have to say that I'm more interested in a good sound (obviously) than in a lot of features.

I'm willing to accept a non-super clean but I really want 2 awesome overdrive channels, versatiles enough and very sensible to eq and gain adjustments. I don't need extreme amounts of gain (just enough to play some riffs in early Metallica style ) but I want a full crunch and a screaming lead (as maybe all other guitarists....).

Are you so kind to give me some advices thanks to your experience?

P.s. More or less I can spend 1000 $ for a new head. I'm also open to used solutions.

Thank you very much and sorry for my english...... I'm italian.

paranoid ....

 

First off ... your English is MUCH better than my Italian :)

 

There are a lot of great amps in your $1000 price range, as you can probably even go $1400 or more "retail" and come in for your target.

 

A lot of my clients swear by the Peavey 5150 II. Steve Stevens (Billy Idol) uses them, as does EVH, and Tom Dunn. The clean is pretty darn clean, and you have two levels of gain. A lot of folks turn up their noses at the Peavey amps, as they are not point to point "boutique" amps, but I will say that they hold up really nicely in hard tour use, and their quality control and manufacturing practices are excellent. The end user also benefits from lower retail cost from Peavey as they make a lot of amps, and their prices on things like sockets, pots, etc, are lower to them than to somebody that buys less of these items.

 

By the way, the Peavey Classic 30 is a great option for those that don't want the weight or cost of something like an AC-30, but a lot of the same character.

 

Carvin has their Steve Vai Legacy head at $799.00, which is also a nice piece of gear.

 

You can also look on ebay for a used Rivera or similar amp, but being in Italy, with the shipping and all, you are probably best off with a new amp that has a warranty that you can find there.

 

In combo amps, there are a lot of options. The Fender Pro Tube series have some positive aspects, but from your taste, it seems to me that a higher gain head, where you have cabinet options, may be a better fit for you.

 

I hope this may have helped a bit. Maybe somebody else here will read this and put in their two cents worth. I am not sure of Marshall's current lineup in your price range, and may be wrong when I say that I think that the Valvestate series may be in your range, and may be a consideration. I will also add, that I do not have any of the Marshall Valvestate amps out with any of the touring folks I support, where I do have 15-20 Peavey 5150's and 5150 II's, a lot of Mesa gear, and 4 Carvin Legacy amps.

 

By the way .... I have less 5150 problems than I do with some of the best known "boutique" amps at three times the cost and more. The 5150's do not fail on the road either.

 

Regards,

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Don't really have a question- just wanted to say

 

"Myles you are an Amp GOD!!!"

 

Too cool the way you help guys out. And your website went immediately in my bookmarks. Since gtrmac just recommended the THD Univalve (and it took me about 10 minutes of research on the web to decide to get one), I'm sure I'll be referencing your site a bit.

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In the case of your Super ... is it the 6L6 version, or one of the very few from 55 that used two 6V6's? The 6V6 ones are quite amazing, and I have seen over 440 B+ volts on these, so be sure to use very strong 6V6's if this is your circuit.
Mine's a 5F4 from '57 so it uses 6L6s. I use the 12AY7 where I'm supposed to but sometimes put a 12AX7 in the PI instead of the 12AU7 - makes it a lot louder and boosts the gain.

 

Replaced the selenium bias rectifier with a 1N4007 to avoid a smelly disaster.

 

Thanks for the help.

"You never can vouch for your own consciousness." - Norman Mailer
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Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

In the case of your Super ... is it the 6L6 version, or one of the very few from 55 that used two 6V6's? The 6V6 ones are quite amazing, and I have seen over 440 B+ volts on these, so be sure to use very strong 6V6's if this is your circuit.
Mine's a 5F4 from '57 so it uses 6L6s. I use the 12AY7 where I'm supposed to but sometimes put a 12AX7 in the PI instead of the 12AU7 - makes it a lot louder and boosts the gain.

 

Replaced the selenium bias rectifier with a 1N4007 to avoid a smelly disaster.

 

Thanks for the help.

Gabriel ....

 

All I can say is .... great amp. The Super was perhaps the best of the tweeds from my limited point of view :)

 

Myles

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Gabriel ....

 

All I can say is .... great amp. The Super was perhaps the best of the tweeds from my limited point of view

 

Myles

Myles:

 

The really cool thing is that I bought it at a yard sale for $15 two years ago. It had been chopped into a head, covered (badly) in black tolex and had suffered an electrical fire at some point. I had no idea what it was until I got it home. I just figured that anything that said "Fender Electric Instruments" on the tube chart was probably a good deal for $15.00. :D

 

After some TLC, it's become my main amp.

 

Here's a blurry photo.

"You never can vouch for your own consciousness." - Norman Mailer
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Originally posted by Gabriel E.:

Gabriel ....

 

All I can say is .... great amp. The Super was perhaps the best of the tweeds from my limited point of view

 

Myles

Myles:

 

The really cool thing is that I bought it at a yard sale for $15 two years ago. It had been chopped into a head, covered (badly) in black tolex and had suffered an electrical fire at some point. I had no idea what it was until I got it home. I just figured that anything that said "Fender Electric Instruments" on the tube chart was probably a good deal for $15.00. :D

 

After some TLC, it's become my main amp.

 

Here's a blurry photo.

Gabriel ....

 

The photo is great. The job you did, even with the blurry photo looks great too.

 

Have you tried this with a 4x10 cabinet?

 

Bet this sounds pretty fantastic. The price you paid was just "stupid" in a great way!

 

Myles

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by theforerunner:

Hi Myles,

I just bought a new Fender Pro Reverb and I really like it alot. The only thing I would like to change is the kind of sound I get out of the gain channel. I would like a little longer amd smoother sustain. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks

theforerunner ....

 

This amp can be made WAY better on the gain side.

 

The stock gain is way too buzzy and inarticulate, and not even usable with the gain and volume set to more than 3 on each side.

 

The stock tubes are awful for the most part.

 

If you look on my website, over at http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/amps.html ... you will see the tube compliment and info on my particular Pro Reverb. I have 9 of these out in the field with clients, and most have the same preamp section (some use 12AX7C's in V1, and some use dropped gain ECC83 SAG's in V2). Their output sections use either the GE's or KT-66's in 3/4's of them and three of them use the NOS 5881's.

 

If you need more info on this amp, feel free to call me directly at Groove Tubes during normal working hours for the most part.

 

Hope this was of some help.

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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Originally posted by take5:

Hi Myles,

 

I have some EL34 tubes marked "ITT Lorenz" on the bottle...they came out of an '83 Marshall head and I know they were original when the head was first purchased. Do you know the make and origin of these tubes?

 

Thank you!

Sorry .... can't help you on this one. So many people re-labelled tubes. Many of the Siemens, Telefunkens, and Mullards even came from the Ei factory in the past that was the OEM for those folks.

 

Look at a smooth plate Telefunken, and a new smooth plate Ei 7025 .... surprise!

 

Myles

Myles S. Rose

www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com

www.la-economy.blogspot.com

www.facebook.com/mylesr

www.twitter.com/myles111us

 

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