Feel free to ask Myles

[Tedster]

Muchos Gracias, Senor Rose...

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Slats:

Myles, I'm not sure what you mean by the #4 and the #8. Thanks

Slats,

 

The #4 and #8 refer to output tube ratings that are used by Groove Tubes. A #8 will distort later and at higher levels than a #4 as an example. When I want a "mid-range" tube that is a great all around tube, I just call my vendors and tell them "send me a tube in the same range as a Groove Tubes #5", as an example.

 

Regards,

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by mikey:

Miles,

I guess I am starting to get confused. This is the first tube amp I've had so I'm a novice, soory. In regards to the Fender DeVille - Is the "phase inverter" considered V3? Could you just give me some good ideas about preamp tubes for this amp. I like that vintage Fender tone. I have a 12ax7EH in V1 and some chinese 12ax7 in V2,V3. I am putting Svets 6L6's in the output. Thanka again for all your help.

mikey,

 

Yes, your phase inverter is V3, and from Fender it is a 12AX7A.

 

Unless you are having problems, it sounds like you have a pretty nice setup as the Svets are really great in that amp, MUCH nicer (at least to my taste) than the stock 6L6B's or 5881's that are shipped with the amp.

 

The best things you can do for that amps is:

 

1. Get a good matched phase inverter in V3. Use a matched 12AT7. These amps like a longer plate 12AX7 in this slot, like a Sovtek 12AX7LP/LPS style tube.

 

2. Make sure your bias is set to about 55% idle dissapation. If higher, you get more background hiss and noise, and if lower than 50%, you loose some headroom and the amp gets a bit gainy.

 

3. Maybe try a 7025 in V1 if you want more of the original Fender bright sound as an experiment. You may like it, you may hate it, but at least it will give you "two amps" for a very small investment.

 

Happy playing,

[macafied]

yes, thats exactly what i wanted to know!

thanks for clearing that up for me.

-Nick

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Tedster:

Muchos Gracias, Senor Rose...

Tedster,

 

I always think your pictures are great

 

Myles

[Skip_dup1]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by skip:

Myles, sorry if this is a dumb question-

you stress the importance of output matching in class A/B amplifiers. I`ve been looking at several `boutique`, low-wattage amps for several months now and all of them seem to be class A amps. Does this mean it`s less of an issue?

Skip,

 

I saw James Peters below answer this a bit, and his answer is pretty spot on.

 

I'd like to add a touch though. Class A amps that are single ended with one tube do not need a matched phase inverter. There is nothing to match, and there would be no benefit.

 

In class A amps that use an output pair, such as Dr. Z amps and Vox, Matchless, etc ... these Class A amps, when driven at mid to high levels, operate in push-pull, or class A/B. A matched phase inverter, which in this case is really an output driver, really helps these amps. In Dr Z. amps it makes them even nicer. In Vox AC-30 amps is seems to make the output tubes last longer as they seem to be under less stress from imbalances. I am still trying to study this and figure out why from a scientific standpoint

 

If you want to forget all this "amp tuning" and amp "blueprinting" trouble, and just have a geat amp, then go to the guy that I listen to and learn from .... James Peters His amp is a super product, and if you need to play a gigantic venue, use a open back 1x12 cabinet and mic it ... throw it into the house system with a few mega watts of amps, and now you will have terrific tone and sound that you can control, rather than the 100+ watt amp that is trying to control you (and that sounds it's best at only very high drive levels).

 

Regards,

Myles-

Many thanks for thi info, as always. I am looking for a 1x12-is Mr. Peters online? I`d like to see what`s available.

[GrantsV]

Hi Myles,

Heres a quick one for you:

 

Two cases:

1) I run my preamp master at 10 and clean valve poweramp (Marshall 20/20) at 1.

 

2) I run my the preamp master on 1 and clean valve poweramp (Marshall 20/20) on 10.

 

The question is, if the perceived volume is the same in both cases, will I get a better tone due to poweramp valve compression in case 2?

 

Appreciate for your time.

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by GrantsV:

Hi Myles,

Heres a quick one for you:

 

Two cases:

1) I run my preamp master at 10 and clean valve poweramp (Marshall 20/20) at 1.

 

2) I run my the preamp master on 1 and clean valve poweramp (Marshall 20/20) on 10.

 

The question is, if the perceived volume is the same in both cases, will I get a better tone due to poweramp valve compression in case 2?

 

Appreciate for your time.

GrantsV,

 

The volume will not be even close in most cases. Pots are not linear in most cases, and even if you have the volume at 2 and the master at 10 (which will be loud), that will be different than the volume at 10 and the master at two, as their gain structures are very different in the preamp section vs. the output section.

 

Regards,

[oyo]

Myles- What an awesome amount of information here!

Thank you!

Now for my question(s):

I have a SVP bass pre-amp that came with 4 old type Sovtek 12AX7 tubes and 1 US made 12AU7 (GE?)

The tubes are all mounted on a daughter card from L-R AX-AX-AX-AU-AX. The input jack is closest to the left so I think V1 is on the left? Can you tell me if my guess is right, and what the other tubes are for?

I would like to end up with a compressed, punchy but bright clean tone (just on the edge of audible distortion) that will turn to a nasty punchy distorted growl (Rush on steroids but with full bass), when I crank the drive control to 3 o'clock and beyond.

Right now I have a mix of tubes in there: a Mesa/Boogie SPAX7, a JJ "high gain" ECC83 from Eurotubes and a GT 12AX7R-2 in ther, all left overs in a tube tone quest in my guitar pre, an ART SGX 2000 Express. (The winner in *that* quest was another JJ ECC83)

Have you worked with blueprinting any SVPs (or SVTs, as they use similar pre-amps)? I would really like to get this sounding better for bass than my guitar pre-amp does (since I found the right JJ for the SGX from Eurotubes).

Thanks!

John York

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by oyo:

Myles- What an awesome amount of information here!

Thank you!

Now for my question(s):

I have a SVP bass pre-amp that came with 4 old type Sovtek 12AX7 tubes and 1 US made 12AU7 (GE?)

The tubes are all mounted on a daughter card from L-R AX-AX-AX-AU-AX. The input jack is closest to the left so I think V1 is on the left? Can you tell me if my guess is right, and what the other tubes are for?

I would like to end up with a compressed, punchy but bright clean tone (just on the edge of audible distortion) that will turn to a nasty punchy distorted growl (Rush on steroids but with full bass), when I crank the drive control to 3 o'clock and beyond.

Right now I have a mix of tubes in there: a Mesa/Boogie SPAX7, a JJ "high gain" ECC83 from Eurotubes and a GT 12AX7R-2 in ther, all left overs in a tube tone quest in my guitar pre, an ART SGX 2000 Express. (The winner in *that* quest was another JJ ECC83)

Have you worked with blueprinting any SVPs (or SVTs, as they use similar pre-amps)? I would really like to get this sounding better for bass than my guitar pre-amp does (since I found the right JJ for the SGX from Eurotubes).

Thanks!

John York

John,

 

O.K.... here we go ...

 

Your AU7 could be a GE, RCA, or Philips. I'd have to look at the tube to tell, but they are all good ones.

 

You are correct, V1 is the closest to the input jack. The others are for various gain stages for the most part with V2 also doing tone control duties.

 

For what you are looking for, in V1 and V2 you have a few options. One option to brighten things up is to try a 7025 in V1.

 

For more compression, you want V1 to have a longer rise time, and for this you need to find somebody that can find you a tube that was looked at on some pretty sophisticated equipment. Most folks only look at emissions, and that measurement is not the same as rise time. The only folks I know that do this are Groove Tubes, and thats for some of their select clients. I'd use a GT-12AX7R in that position, but have it picked for a MS (medium slow) rise time with a rating of 108 or higher. The rating of "108" is a rating I use for my clients, but some of the folks at GT know my rating system. They have a group over there called SAG or Special Applications Group, that might be able to get you that tube. You'd have to call them direct as I don't think those are dealer stocked items at all.

 

I have blueprinted a number of SVT's. There are a lot of factors involved with them, as there are 6550 versions and 6146 versions. It also depends a LOT of the player's style, and 4,5,6 string instruments, and even the string guage comes into play.

 

If you talk to GT, the guy to talk to is Rick Benson. He's the head of their sales department, but very technical, and maybe the only one that knows of their SAG (sort of GT's Skunkworks). He may not admit much, as like the Skunkworks, is sort of kept under wraps.

 

Hope this helped.

 

Regards,

[oyo]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by oyo:

Myles- What an awesome amount of information here!

Thank you!

Now for my question(s):

I have a SVP bass pre-amp that came with 4 old type Sovtek 12AX7 tubes and 1 US made 12AU7 (GE?)

The tubes are all mounted on a daughter card from L-R AX-AX-AX-AU-AX. The input jack is closest to the left so I think V1 is on the left? Can you tell me if my guess is right, and what the other tubes are for?

I would like to end up with a compressed, punchy but bright clean tone (just on the edge of audible distortion) that will turn to a nasty punchy distorted growl (Rush on steroids but with full bass), when I crank the drive control to 3 o'clock and beyond.

Right now I have a mix of tubes in there: a Mesa/Boogie SPAX7, a JJ "high gain" ECC83 from Eurotubes and a GT 12AX7R-2 in ther, all left overs in a tube tone quest in my guitar pre, an ART SGX 2000 Express. (The winner in *that* quest was another JJ ECC83)

Have you worked with blueprinting any SVPs (or SVTs, as they use similar pre-amps)? I would really like to get this sounding better for bass than my guitar pre-amp does (since I found the right JJ for the SGX from Eurotubes).

Thanks!

John York

John,

 

O.K.... here we go ...

 

Your AU7 could be a GE, RCA, or Philips. I'd have to look at the tube to tell, but they are all good ones.

 

You are correct, V1 is the closest to the input jack. The others are for various gain stages for the most part with V2 also doing tone control duties.

 

For what you are looking for, in V1 and V2 you have a few options. One option to brighten things up is to try a 7025 in V1.

 

For more compression, you want V1 to have a longer rise time, and for this you need to find somebody that can find you a tube that was looked at on some pretty sophisticated equipment. Most folks only look at emissions, and that measurement is not the same as rise time. The only folks I know that do this are Groove Tubes, and thats for some of their select clients. I'd use a GT-12AX7R in that position, but have it picked for a MS (medium slow) rise time with a rating of 108 or higher. The rating of "108" is a rating I use for my clients, but some of the folks at GT know my rating system. They have a group over there called SAG or Special Applications Group, that might be able to get you that tube. You'd have to call them direct as I don't think those are dealer stocked items at all.

 

I have blueprinted a number of SVT's. There are a lot of factors involved with them, as there are 6550 versions and 6146 versions. It also depends a LOT of the player's style, and 4,5,6 string instruments, and even the string guage comes into play.

 

If you talk to GT, the guy to talk to is Rick Benson. He's the head of their sales department, but very technical, and maybe the only one that knows of their SAG (sort of GT's Skunkworks). He may not admit much, as like the Skunkworks, is sort of kept under wraps.

 

Hope this helped.

 

Regards,

[Slats]

Myles, I'm wondering if you can help me troubleshoot an AC 30 that has developed some noise. It's got a loud static sound with intermittent popping. The only control knob that has an effect on the hiss is the cut knob. Taking the guitar cord out, or putting in in any input has no effect.

I'd like to isolate the problem. I was thinking of gently tapping on the tubes while the amp is on to see if it makes a difference. Can I safely swap out tubes while the amp is on?

Any help and advice is much appreciated!

Thanks again

Frank

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Slats:

Myles, I'm wondering if you can help me troubleshoot an AC 30 that has developed some noise. It's got a loud static sound with intermittent popping. The only control knob that has an effect on the hiss is the cut knob. Taking the guitar cord out, or putting in in any input has no effect.

I'd like to isolate the problem. I was thinking of gently tapping on the tubes while the amp is on to see if it makes a difference. Can I safely swap out tubes while the amp is on?

Any help and advice is much appreciated!

Thanks again

Frank

Frank,

 

You can swap the preamp tubes with the amp on but not the power tubes. When you do that, turn down the volume all the way though, or the popping may damage a speaker.

 

I'd start with V1, because when you get popping, its usually from V1 or V2 and gets amplified down the chain. After a while, depending on the loudness and clarity of the pops, you can usually tell which preamp tube it is.

 

Maybe get one new ECC83 and put it in each position, starting closest to the input jack.

 

Keep me up to date and I will try to help.

 

Regards,

[oyo]

Originally posted by myles111:

Originally posted by oyo:

Myles- What an awesome amount of information here!

Thank you!

Now for my question(s):

John York

John,

 

O.K.... here we go ...

 

Your AU7 could be a GE, RCA, or Philips. I'd have to look at the tube to tell, but they are all good ones.

 

You are correct, V1 is the closest to the input jack. The others are for various gain stages for the most part with V2 also doing tone control duties.

 

For what you are looking for, in V1 and V2 you have a few options. One option to brighten things up is to try a 7025 in V1.

 

For more compression, you want V1 to have a longer rise time, and for this you need to find somebody that can find you a tube that was looked at on some pretty sophisticated equipment. Most folks only look at emissions, and that measurement is not the same as rise time. The only folks I know that do this are Groove Tubes, and thats for some of their select clients. I'd use a GT-12AX7R in that position, but have it picked for a MS (medium slow) rise time with a rating of 108 or higher. The rating of "108" is a rating I use for my clients, but some of the folks at GT know my rating system. They have a group over there called SAG or Special Applications Group, that might be able to get you that tube. You'd have to call them direct as I don't think those are dealer stocked items at all.

 

I have blueprinted a number of SVT's. There are a lot of factors involved with them, as there are 6550 versions and 6146 versions. It also depends a LOT of the player's style, and 4,5,6 string instruments, and even the string guage comes into play.

 

If you talk to GT, the guy to talk to is Rick Benson. He's the head of their sales department, but very technical, and maybe the only one that knows of their SAG (sort of GT's Skunkworks). He may not admit much, as like the Skunkworks, is sort of kept under wraps.

 

Hope this helped.

 

Regards,

Sorry for the last post with no new text- I must have hit "Add Reply" too soon

This is what I meant to post:

Thanks Myles. As allways, good info.

(By the way, I read the whole "ask Myles" thread over the course of a couple of days. What an education!)

Now for the next question(s): If this was the pre- of an SVT, then I would assume that the 12AU7 was a phase inverter/ driver and having a ballanced tube would be important. The SVP has line outs, and I would guess they are driven a little differently... do I need a ballanced tube here to give a strong, pure output? I tried a US made GT 12AT7 -not sold as ballanced- without much change in tone, or seemingly, output.

Next...

Something I could try if GT doesnt't think a guy who mainly plays bass for his own ammusement is worthy of specially tested "skunkworks" tubes, is to order a mess of ECC83/12AX7 tubes from Eurotubes and just listed till I find the tone I'm after. I liked the sound of the Mesa SPAX7

in there too, so I could try a few more of those, but the JJs are almost 1/3 the price and have the same odds of finding one I really like.

So V1 and V2 are the main tone shapers? What about the tube on the other end (Right side, viewed from the front)of the daughter card? Whatever it does, it seems to respond to the Mesa/Boogie nicely...

John

P.S. If GT told me about the SAG, would they then have to kill me?

[JamesPeters]

Originally posted by myles111:

Thanks for keeping me on my toes

 

When is your amp slated for shipping in quantity?

 

If you'd like, I would like to talk to the folks at Guitar Player Magazine and see about doing a review on it.

 

Regards,

 

Myles

Hey Myles. This forum doesn't normally move that quickly, so I must've forgotten to check back. "The guy that I listen to and learn from", oh come on! I'm just some bum who's making amps...

 

(This isn't going to turn into a "you're the best" / "no, you're the best" type of thing, is it? )

 

Wow, "shipping in quantity"...hadn't thought about that yet. I'm just rounding out my first ten orders this week. So far that in itself has been almost incredible for me, to have that much interest in less than two weeks since my site has been "complete" with the purchase page.

 

I'm still working full time as the manager of a service center (for a vending machine company), and before I go full-on amp building I have to at least make sure the center is ready to move ahead without me. I've been there 5 years now and have been treated well, so I figure the least they deserve is that they're taken care of before I move on. There have been a few changes there recently and I've had to hire and train again, so I'm not quite ready to take the plunge yet.

 

For now I'll just sell the amps from my site, or locally. Speaking of which, I have an interview today with a local paper--Mark (my friend who's making my enclosures, and soon speaker cabs) and I are going to try to get the point across to Calgary that we're "in business", something that has been almost ignored here so far (which is really weird considering that I have 9 orders from the last two weeks from the USA!)

 

Anyway, one step at a time I guess. Man, a review in Guitar Player...that would rock!

 

I'll keep you posted (no pun intended!) as to my "gearing up" progress. I'll probably be staying at my current job for the next couple months anyway to make sure things are going well. In the meantime, I want to see if I can get to know guitarists in Calgary and get the grassroots thing going on. I'd almost not feel comfortable selling lots to the USA before having "paid my dues" locally...call me naive I guess.

 

Talk to you later!

[ToneDoctor]

Hey, Myles. It`s me Doc. Hope you remember me.

I talked with the folks at VHT, and it seemed to

be too much trouble to deal with the whole switch thing from KT-88`s/6550`s to EL-34`s with my 2902.

So I ended up trading it in on a new 2502. It`s fifty watts a side, has a class A and class A/B mode, plus can run either EL-34`s or 6L6`s. It came with Svet EL34`s. I A/B`d the two amps and found the 2502 to have just the right amount of give to it, and not so stiff like the 2902 could be. I also switched because there are so many more tube options with this amp. A set of Genalex KT-88`s would have cost me a fortune with the other amp. This amp was cheaper than those tubes would have been. I can also turn it up without peeling the paint off the walls. I would like to know what tube options you might suggest. Now that I have all these choices;I might have shot myself in the foot(lol).

I know you`ve been saying a lot of good things about the GT/GE NVM 6L6`s. I wonder what tonal changes I would hear going from Svet EL-34`s to GT/GE NVM 6L6`s. Anyways, I`m bouncing off the walls loving this new amp and choices. BTW,The class A mode is particuarly sweeet. I`d sure appreciate any suggestions you may have.

Thanks for your help as always.

[Slats]

Myles, success! I went down the line of the preamp tubes gently wiggling them. When I got to the last one it made the popping sound and changed the hiss. I pulled the tube out then put it back in, and all the noise went away. It's very quiet now on all chanells and at any volume.

Thank you once again!

Frank

[Dave da Dude]

I just bought (have not received yet) a '93 Randall Pro 1000. It has a bias switch to switch between 6L6 tubes and EL34 tubes. The seller included a pair of 6L6 tubes in the deal.

 

During emails back and forth (before buying) about the "sound", the seller (an amp repairer) said that another trick (he mentioned many with controls that would "soften" the sound) was to put in 6L6 tubes and set the bias switch for EL34. That the only negative would be that the life of the tubes would be shorter, but it gave a "..REAL nice hot overdrive sound out of it this way."

 

When I posted this info on Guitar Forum to let everyone know I had FINALLY bought a tube amp, what it was, the seller's comments about its versatility and to thank them all for their help; Gabriel replied that when the tubes "blew" they could wipe out some other parts of the amp. When I asked if there was a way to avoid that, he referred me to you.

 

What should I do?

[mikey_dup1]

Hi Miles,

I am getting ready to order some preamp tubes from Watford for the Fender DeVille and want to make sure I have this right. What do you think?

 

V1- 7025

V2 - 12AX7EH

V3 - 12AT7.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated for that classic Fender sound but would like to sweeten up the dirty channel a little. Thanks!!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by JamesPeters:

Originally posted by myles111:

Thanks for keeping me on my toes

 

When is your amp slated for shipping in quantity?

 

If you'd like, I would like to talk to the folks at Guitar Player Magazine and see about doing a review on it.

 

Regards,

 

Myles

Hey Myles. This forum doesn't normally move that quickly, so I must've forgotten to check back. "The guy that I listen to and learn from", oh come on! I'm just some bum who's making amps...

 

(This isn't going to turn into a "you're the best" / "no, you're the best" type of thing, is it? )

 

Wow, "shipping in quantity"...hadn't thought about that yet. I'm just rounding out my first ten orders this week. So far that in itself has been almost incredible for me, to have that much interest in less than two weeks since my site has been "complete" with the purchase page.

 

I'm still working full time as the manager of a service center (for a vending machine company), and before I go full-on amp building I have to at least make sure the center is ready to move ahead without me. I've been there 5 years now and have been treated well, so I figure the least they deserve is that they're taken care of before I move on. There have been a few changes there recently and I've had to hire and train again, so I'm not quite ready to take the plunge yet.

 

For now I'll just sell the amps from my site, or locally. Speaking of which, I have an interview today with a local paper--Mark (my friend who's making my enclosures, and soon speaker cabs) and I are going to try to get the point across to Calgary that we're "in business", something that has been almost ignored here so far (which is really weird considering that I have 9 orders from the last two weeks from the USA!)

 

Anyway, one step at a time I guess. Man, a review in Guitar Player...that would rock!

 

I'll keep you posted (no pun intended!) as to my "gearing up" progress. I'll probably be staying at my current job for the next couple months anyway to make sure things are going well. In the meantime, I want to see if I can get to know guitarists in Calgary and get the grassroots thing going on. I'd almost not feel comfortable selling lots to the USA before having "paid my dues" locally...call me naive I guess.

 

Talk to you later!

James ....

 

OK ... be like that. I'll just say "you're the best" and we'll drop it at that

 

In any case, paying your local Canada dues is all well and good, but I think there is a pretty nice market for your amp here in the USA too .... so get your plans for increased production in he back of your mind. I have a lot of folks that are interested.

 

Regards,

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by ToneDoctor:

Hey, Myles. It`s me Doc. Hope you remember me.

I talked with the folks at VHT, and it seemed to

be too much trouble to deal with the whole switch thing from KT-88`s/6550`s to EL-34`s with my 2902.

So I ended up trading it in on a new 2502. It`s fifty watts a side, has a class A and class A/B mode, plus can run either EL-34`s or 6L6`s. It came with Svet EL34`s. I A/B`d the two amps and found the 2502 to have just the right amount of give to it, and not so stiff like the 2902 could be. I also switched because there are so many more tube options with this amp. A set of Genalex KT-88`s would have cost me a fortune with the other amp. This amp was cheaper than those tubes would have been. I can also turn it up without peeling the paint off the walls. I would like to know what tube options you might suggest. Now that I have all these choices;I might have shot myself in the foot(lol).

I know you`ve been saying a lot of good things about the GT/GE NVM 6L6`s. I wonder what tonal changes I would hear going from Svet EL-34`s to GT/GE NVM 6L6`s. Anyways, I`m bouncing off the walls loving this new amp and choices. BTW,The class A mode is particuarly sweeet. I`d sure appreciate any suggestions you may have.

Thanks for your help as always.

Hello Doc ....

 

The Genelex Gold Lion KT-88's go at times now from some places for over $300 each! Yep .... pretty steep. I prefer KT-66's or 6L6's as at least they will distort at rational levels.

 

There is a big change between the EL-34 and 6L6, let alone the Svet EL-34 vs. GE 6L6. The EL-34's are nice for articulate distortion in a way of trying to articuate it, but the 6L6 is stronger in the mass distortion area when its over the top.

 

The GE tube is much more articulate and anything I have heard, and its sound stage is wider too. It is perhaps my favorite tube these days.

 

You are more than welcome for any feeble help I provided.

 

Regards,

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Slats:

Myles, success! I went down the line of the preamp tubes gently wiggling them. When I got to the last one it made the popping sound and changed the hiss. I pulled the tube out then put it back in, and all the noise went away. It's very quiet now on all chanells and at any volume.

Thank you once again!

Frank

Frank....

 

Considering 70% of amp problems are tubes, 20% are sockets, pots, caps, etc, and the last 10% the rest of the amp .... looks to me like you now qualify as an amp tech yourself!

 

Well done, and watch the high voltages if you get deeper inside the amp!

 

Regards,

 

Myles

[JamesPeters]

Myles said:In any case, paying your local Canada dues is all well and good, but I think there is a pretty nice market for your amp here in the USA too .... so get your plans for increased production in he back of your mind. I have a lot of folks that are interested.

You're right. Well, I'm taking step #1 tomorrow, and that's getting the metal shop that makes my chassis to do all the drilling on the chassis. It's far too time consuming for me, more than anything else so far that I do on the amps. I'd originally thought I should leave the drilling until later in case I wanted to make changes on individual amps, or start a new design...but that's just not practical at all (and I have enough sales now to justify letting them do the drilling).

 

I tell ya, if we did get "quantity orders" it would sure make Mark happy too. I handed him his pay for the enclosures and I think he got an idea how this could turn into something really big.

 

Later!

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by Dave th Dude:

I just bought (have not received yet) a '93 Randall Pro 1000. It has a bias switch to switch between 6L6 tubes and EL34 tubes. The seller included a pair of 6L6 tubes in the deal.

 

During emails back and forth (before buying) about the "sound", the seller (an amp repairer) said that another trick (he mentioned many with controls that would "soften" the sound) was to put in 6L6 tubes and set the bias switch for EL34. That the only negative would be that the life of the tubes would be shorter, but it gave a "..REAL nice hot overdrive sound out of it this way."

 

When I posted this info on Guitar Forum to let everyone know I had FINALLY bought a tube amp, what it was, the seller's comments about its versatility and to thank them all for their help; Gabriel replied that when the tubes "blew" they could wipe out some other parts of the amp. When I asked if there was a way to avoid that, he referred me to you.

 

What should I do?

Dave,

 

I would not run EL-34's with the bias in the 6L6 position. The bias on these two tubes is very different.

 

The negative that was not brought up here, is that your putput transformer will be under a lot more stress and there will be a mismatch in output impedience.

 

If you want a hotter overdrive sound, get a hotter preamp tube in V1 and V2.

 

If you want to use 6L6's use them in the correct bias setting, as for EL-34's, use them in the proper setting.

 

Regards,

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by mikey:

Hi Miles,

I am getting ready to order some preamp tubes from Watford for the Fender DeVille and want to make sure I have this right. What do you think?

 

V1- 7025

V2 - 12AX7EH

V3 - 12AT7.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated for that classic Fender sound but would like to sweeten up the dirty channel a little. Thanks!!

mikey,

 

Good choices. The 7025's can be a bit bright, they were used in the older blackface amps, but a lot of folks love these in the Hot Rod DeVille and Deluxe amps.

 

From Watford, you want your 7025 to be about a 225 range, for your V2 tube, go for 200-220, and for your 12AT7, order their "balanced valve". It should sound really sweet.

 

Regards,

[sgguitarzz]

Hey Myles. What do you think of teh Fender Blues Junior? I am considering getting a low power tube amp to use in very small clubs/bars. Volume is always such a problem and my Boogie Mark IIB is just way too loud. With something this small I can actually drive the power tubes for some nice smooth tube distortion. I am a little worried about the 15 watts being to low (I have never used anything this small) but my guess is that in some places it will be more than enough. We play classic rock.

I understand that changing the tubes and speaker really make a big difference in this amp. I already have the speaker and a set of JJ EL-84's are cheap. I have some preamp tubes to try also.

 

Dennis

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by JamesPeters:

Myles said:In any case, paying your local Canada dues is all well and good, but I think there is a pretty nice market for your amp here in the USA too .... so get your plans for increased production in he back of your mind. I have a lot of folks that are interested.

You're right. Well, I'm taking step #1 tomorrow, and that's getting the metal shop that makes my chassis to do all the drilling on the chassis. It's far too time consuming for me, more than anything else so far that I do on the amps. I'd originally thought I should leave the drilling until later in case I wanted to make changes on individual amps, or start a new design...but that's just not practical at all (and I have enough sales now to justify letting them do the drilling).

 

I tell ya, if we did get "quantity orders" it would sure make Mark happy too. I handed him his pay for the enclosures and I think he got an idea how this could turn into something really big.

 

Later!

James,

 

Keep posting or emailing to let me know how its going!

 

Myles

[myles_rose]

Originally posted by sgguitarzz:

Hey Myles. What do you think of teh Fender Blues Junior? I am considering getting a low power tube amp to use in very small clubs/bars. Volume is always such a problem and my Boogie Mark IIB is just way too loud. With something this small I can actually drive the power tubes for some nice smooth tube distortion. I am a little worried about the 15 watts being to low (I have never used anything this small) but my guess is that in some places it will be more than enough. We play classic rock.

I understand that changing the tubes and speaker really make a big difference in this amp. I already have the speaker and a set of JJ EL-84's are cheap. I have some preamp tubes to try also.

 

Dennis

Dennis,

 

The Blues Jr. is a amp that is a blast. You can move them anywhere with ease, and the EL-84's are plenty loud for most smaller places. The EL-84's have a great output section breakup, and are very touch sensitive in that amp, which makes it even more fun to play.

 

On Tubes, just use the EL-84S (JJ) and you're in business. Try and ECC83 in V1 for the Brit sound, or a 12AX7C for a bit less brightness.

 

Regards,

[halcyon]

hey myles i was thinking of ordering a pair of those usa groove tubes 6l6 and am wondering how close groove tubes matches there pairs? what number should i get for my rectoverb? im also thinking of picking up one of the matched pre amp tubes from them as a phase inverter too. thanks.

[sgguitarzz]

Dennis,

Thanks Myles. The Blues Junior looks like a pretty good pick at that price. Other considerations would be a Peavey Clasic 30, the new Carvin Vintage 16 and someone mentioned and H&K Edition. ANy thoughts on the Fender vs. these amps?

 

Dennis